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My EGR valve failed. Probably less than 3000 miles of gas use but not covered by warranty (Over the 5 year point). Dealership replaced valve as well as 12 volt battery in their troubleshooting.
 
We use Bomnin Chevy, in Miami/Kendall, FL.

Full reimbursement check was received...YEE-HAH!!!

For anyone else trying to get this covered, the crew at Bomnin managed to get us the reimbursement because they identified it as "EGR labor operation 4024770, [which is] is listed as a Powertrain covered component for Volt only and EV models."

Cheers!
Hey Jeff, When your volt was done under labor operation 4024770, did they say what part of warranty was it under?

My volt' warranty for Powertrain Limited Warranty - EXPIRED about 5 months ago but I do still have Voltec Component Limited Warranty and Emission warranty. My volt is 2016 with 30k miles on it, and this EGR problem has occurred to me around 29k miles. I need to know should I ask for the advisor to look the labor code under.
 
I'd appreciate it if a member who had their Gen 2 EGR replaced would post the part number of the failed part. It seems like a lot of these are failing and I'm curious what component, exactly, is failing.
Had the same problem at 15,000 miles...part number 12691147. covered under emissions control warranty for 8yr/80k miles in my state.
 
I'm at the same point in the saga. How did your court battle end?
Assume not well. People love to talk about winning. Losing, not so much.
 
Another EGR failure. Almost always in my garage. 29K miles with about 12K on gas. Valve and cooler only show a light carbon dusting so most likely the EGR electronics. Awaiting a new part, which is on back order. Dealerships in Illinois and Michigan tell me this is not covered by warranty.

Good info in this thread, but I'll add my 2 cents:

If your EGR hasn't failed yet, I'd recommend carrying a spare 15 amp mini fuse (blue) to replace the blown fuse when this happens, after disconnecting the valve, as shown below. Picture shows a green 20 amp mini fuse, but Auto Zone was out of 15 amp mini fuses.
When disconnecting the EGR valve, the bottom of the connector has a light gray tab that must be slid out first, then press the tab to pull it free.
I looked at ebay for ordering a replacement part, but noted most all are from China and are selling the older models. Part # 12691147 has updated electronics.
Car is running fine with the EGR valve disconnected. Irrelevant when running on EV, but leaving it disconnected so it doesn't possibly blow the fuse again if the ERDTT comes on.


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Another EGR failure. Almost always in my garage. 29K miles with about 12K on gas. Valve and cooler only show a light carbon dusting so most likely the EGR electronics. Awaiting a new part, which is on back order. Dealerships in Illinois and Michigan tell me this is not covered by warranty.

Good info in this thread, but I'll add my 2 cents:

If your EGR hasn't failed yet, I'd recommend carrying a spare 15 amp mini fuse (blue) to replace the blown fuse when this happens, after disconnecting the valve, as shown below. Picture shows a green 20 amp mini fuse, but Auto Zone was out of 15 amp mini fuses.
When disconnecting the EGR valve, the bottom of the connector has a light gray tab that must be slid out first, then press the tab to pull it free.
I looked at ebay for ordering a replacement part, but noted most all are from China and are selling the older models. Part # 12691147 has updated electronics.
Car is running fine with the EGR valve disconnected. Irrelevant when running on EV, but leaving it disconnected so it doesn't possibly blow the fuse again if the ERDTT comes on.


View attachment 175717

View attachment 175718
Good advice - actually heres an addition - I filled every spare empty spot in my fusebox not used for anything with spare fuses. Im not being left stranded again!
Also, I bought my EGR valve on eBay for around $330 from a Chevy Dealer with a eBay account. It is the revised part, arrived fast, and was cheaper than the Chinese knockoffs that take 2-4 weeks to receive. Was easy to replace IMO.

Oh, and I have you beat! My Volt has 20,500 miles and about 4500 are Gas miles. Mine too was lightly sooted. Clearly an internal failure, and NOT from being carboned up.
 
Another update while I'm waiting for my EGR valve to come in.
Since I only have 9 months until my emission test is due, I decided to reconnect the EGR valve, see if the CEL went out, and see how long it would take to get the error codes. My expectation was I would need to put the car in hold mode, but upon starting the vehicle in EV mode, I instantly got the reduced propulsion message and codes on my OBD app. I turned the car off and checked my 20 amp mini fuse and it was blown. That extra 5 amps did nothing and no emissions through the EGR valve was needed to trip all the standard EGR error codes. So now I know...
 
Another update while I'm waiting for my EGR valve to come in.
Since I only have 9 months until my emission test is due, I decided to reconnect the EGR valve, see if the CEL went out, and see how long it would take to get the error codes. My expectation was I would need to put the car in hold mode, but upon starting the vehicle in EV mode, I instantly got the reduced propulsion message and codes on my OBD app. I turned the car off and checked my 20 amp mini fuse and it was blown. That extra 5 amps did nothing and no emissions through the EGR valve was needed to trip all the standard EGR error codes. So now I know...
Interesting. That suggests that the EGR valve has a short that's blowing the fuse, which in turn causes the codes and reduced propulsion power message.
 
have same issue on 2017 volt, dealership did change fuse only, can't reproduce short charge $194, Ally Premier Protection cot covered fuse change. Need to push Chevy to issue recall.
 
have same issue on 2017 volt, dealership did change fuse only, can't reproduce short charge $194, Ally Premier Protection cot covered fuse change. Need to push Chevy to issue recall.
Recalls do not work that way. It has to be somehow pretty directly related to an immediate safety issue. Blowing the fuse, and allowing you time to get off the highway safely is not a safety issue. If it blew the fuse, and instantly the car just stopped ANY propulsion, you might be getting somewhere. But the way the system is designed, its just an expensive inconvenience. Alas, no recall campaign will ever be made.
 
Another EGR failure. Almost always in my garage. 29K miles with about 12K on gas. Valve and cooler only show a light carbon dusting so most likely the EGR electronics. Awaiting a new part, which is on back order. Dealerships in Illinois and Michigan tell me this is not covered by warranty. Good info in this thread, but I'll add my 2 cents: If your EGR hasn't failed yet, I'd recommend carrying a spare 15 amp mini fuse (blue) to replace the blown fuse when this happens, after disconnecting the valve, as shown below. Picture shows a green 20 amp mini fuse, but Auto Zone was out of 15 amp mini fuses. When disconnecting the EGR valve, the bottom of the connector has a light gray tab that must be slid out first, then press the tab to pull it free. I looked at ebay for ordering a replacement part, but noted most all are from China and are selling the older models. Part # 12691147 has updated electronics. Car is running fine with the EGR valve disconnected. Irrelevant when running on EV, but leaving it disconnected so it doesn't possibly blow the fuse again if the ERDTT comes on. View attachment 175717 View attachment 175718
Any reason to plug the EGR back in (other than emissions)?
 
If you're familiar with soldering, it's a 30 minute job. Just replace the microswitch. Or maybe just pressing it 50+ times will be enough.

Today I finally installed the choke and a diode, cutting the violet/white wire at the #6 connector pin. But for me that was really much easier, than getting the GM proposed junction part.
Greetings DVB -
Can you point to where the EGR modification you are describing is outlined?
I've had the same EGR failure and have been running with the EGR disconnected.
 
I'm sorry, this post was about STP issue. Somehow I messed
the threads...
Thanks for the reply... I was hoping there was some magic hack for the EGR failure. FWIW I've also been running with the EGR disconnected since it blew the No Walk Home fuse.

The dealership told me the EGR was not covered under the Emissions and Exhaust warranty, yet after reading additional posts here, the EGR is a specifically mentioned component in the Warranty. I'm curious what their rationale will be for denying warranty repair with it's explicit coverage in the Exhaust System component list.
 
I'm curious what their rationale will be for denying warranty repair with it's explicit coverage in the Exhaust System component list.
$$$
 
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