Holy smokes the license plate area is bright!! I get it if you had personalized plates but you don't. Are you lighting it up so bright for the cops?

Interesting topic. I could understand less wattage on lights that are on for a long time (headlights and license plate). I could also understand for interior for the occasional use if they were significantly brighter. Typically we don't have those on much but often if you drop something or need to read something ... in those frustrating (potentially) cases I could see brighter lights helping.

 

Yeah they are bright and crisp, kinda nice when you walk around the car... you have this lit up path lol.

I've had two guys come up to me in the Lowe's parking lot, I thought they were going to ask about battery power but no, it was "where dod you get those license plate lights" "holyship they are dope dude!" I laughed and went in the store, when I came out they were still there and wanted me to show them (so they said) "those high intensity lights". It was funny, wish they were a couple of cuties however instead of some big ole contractor guys!

BTW- Everything about the upgrades is bright & clean, the HID's are total King compared to any others out there! I get more remarks at dark time than I do in the day 10 fold.

 

Looks great!!!

Four questions:

1) What style LED did you use for all of the interior lights? Flank or 360? (Doesn't say in your sig, so want to double check).

2) How difficult was it to get to all of the interior/license plate bulbs?

3) Your front 7443s do both parking and turn signal correct? (Just want to make sure since I like the route you took).

4) How do the interior LEDs behave when the car tries to dim them up or down when exiting/entering the vehicle?

Thanks!
Dan

 

...INSERTED

Looks great!!!

Three questions:

1) What style LED did you use for all of the interior lights? Flank or 360? (Doesn't say in your sig, so want to double check).
Straight firing:
http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...erior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/6K-WHITE-4-LED-2W-HIGH-p8187987-1-2.html

2) How difficult was it to get to all of the interior/license plate bulbs?
Very easy, pop out the plastic lens/cover on each. License has 2 lens with a tab on the end, just pinch in and the assembly comes out in your hand, again very easy.
http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...terior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/6K-WHITE-4-LED-2-WATT-p5768086-1-2.html

3) Your front 7443s do both parking and turn signal correct? (Just want to make sure since I like the route you took).
Yes, 7.5w and they are both amber low and high (turns). I didn't go switchback as I was chicken of the definition between the two colors and didn't want somebody blaming an intersection accident on my Volt.

Thanks!
Dan

 

Ahh you snuck in a #4 on me? lol.

They dim to about 80% down then cutoff due to not enough voltage for the LED to pickup on. It's a nice touch but the interior color of those 6K's is sweet. Everything looks like a futuristic car for sure, you will get attention on those (BTW- I used the dimmer regular 2.5w front/side firing for the backseat as 2 of those 2w HP ones would of been too bright back there).

 

Sorry for sneaking that #4 in on ya

Thanks for all of the information. It can get overwhelming trying to figure out what will work and what wont... One question I have is why you chose just front firing for the domes? Does that style not utilize the reflectors in the light assemblies? You've been in there, I haven't yet

I agree with you on the front parking lights man...

What my goal is:

Center Map/Backseat-Dome: All 6k (what would you recommend for brightness?) - No idea yet exactly what to get.

Cargo-trunk: 6k as bright as I can get without being ridiculously bright

Frnt Cntr Console: Red (Like your idea, but am switching to keep the Maps white and have the Red to greet me upon entry.)

Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!! If you have more links - thats a huge help!

Dan

 

Did the replacement license lights and backup light help with the backup camera at night? That is one of the few things I dislike is the weak camera/lighting of the b/u cam.

Thanks for posting the pics and the information. I will probably do this real soon with this information.

 

Is there an alternate for the license plate that isn't as bright? I'd prefer less brightness and more power savings, if it is available.

Also, how hard was the park light/directional light replacement? I'm considering doing that but may bite the bullet and have the dealer install those...

 

I'm wondering what you mean by "I didn't go switchback as I was chicken of the definition between the two colors and didn't want somebody blaming an intersection accident on my Volt.

 

I believe Switchbacks are white park lights that are brightly illuminated, and when you use your directionals, they change to the typical amber color.

 

@AZ
The main difference is the SB's (I looked at) were both hi (on both white running and amber) which creates a small amount of contrast between the two. On my all ambers, the running lights are low in running mode while the turns are high output (like normal filament bulbs). Your SB's may be different where the white is low but v-leds SB's were not that way, the white was bright as the amber.

@ ClarksonCote
Yes, just go with the 2 LED one's instead of the 4 (2nd set down from top, my set is the 4 LED on top). You may want the 4 in the cargo trunk area however... killers!
http://www.v-leds.com/194-168-158-L...-168-158-LED/5K-White-LED/Flank-Style/tc511425-1-2//page/1/checkForLanding/true

@Bammasteve
Yeah those are better than stock and help the camera b/u. Makes the camera more clear and crisp with the 6K and that bulb doesn't rely on the reflector in the housing much at all so it's direct non wasted light projected. Sorry again for not remembering to get pics of the b/u.

@Dan
I like your thinking (outside the box style!) about reversing the Red/Wht. Let me know how that works out!
The reason I went red on the maps (like who reads a map hardly ever) is for pleasant driving while still giving enough light to g/f to scrum through her purse etc. It is really cool not to be bothered by a light going down the road (I stole the idea from my boat who uses red navigation/reading lights for this reason also).

To save you some purchases (through the courtesy of my wallet Put lower output in the backseat than the HP2w (than the front center. Man, 2 of the HP 2w 6K's was just too dang bright back there. Heck the one single up front is freeqn bright! (trust me, your kid loses a McD's frenchfry down the seat, you will find it! (No eating in my Volt however

You links, here is my interior:
Front center single 6K (BRIGHT!) http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...erior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/6K-WHITE-4-LED-2W-HIGH-p8187987-1-2.html
Backseat 6K: http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED-...ulbs/CornerSide-Marker-LED/White-LED/6K-WHITE-15W-3-CHIP-HIGH-p9677820-1-2.html
Map (Red):http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...terior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/Red-LED/RED-4-LED-2W-HIGH-POWER-p7982925-1-2.html
^IF you don't want real bright red ones: http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED-...-LED-Bulbs/CornerSide-Marker-LED/Red-LED/SUPER-RED-HIGH-POWER-p4481183-1-2.html
License & Cargo/Trunk (same type): 5K Brightazz: http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...terior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/5K-WHITE-4-LED-2-WATT-p8825900-1-2.html
^ same not as bright: http://www.v-leds.com/Interior-LED-...erior-LED-Bulbs/Dome-Map-LED/White-LED/5K-WHITE-FLANK-1W-HIGH-p7408401-1-2.html

-Think I covered everybody's q's, if not let me know!
Cheers and lite up everybody!

 

@AZ
The main difference is the SB's (I looked at) were both hi (on both white running and amber) which creates a small amount of contrast between the two. On my all ambers, the running lights are low in running mode while the turns are high output (like normal filament bulbs). Your SB's may be different where the white is low but v-leds SB's were not that way, the white was bright as the amber.

Ok, I get what your saying now. Someone who could not tell the diffenrece between white and amber (color blind) might not see a change in brightness. Though in those rare cases hopefully the side markers on the mirrors will help. Thanks for clearing that up!

On edit: I did try your idea of red maps and like them very much! Wasn't sure I was going to care for them but they really do work well at night and allow for some temporary lighting without blinding the driver.

 

Wonder why no one has mentioned the brake lights.


I'm considering doing all this to mine, and have already ordered the HID headlights (not here yet). The more I can keep people off the back end, the better, especially when using L to regen brake - takes some people awhile to notice that (you know, the ones for whom the only situation the word smart applies to is to their phone, not the user). A nice blinding license plate sounds like the ticket there...but brighter brake lights couldn't hurt, either. I've been known to tap brakes even when not needed to alert the less perceptive of other drivers...

I wonder on the switchbacks - we get real fog here, and isn't amber better for that?

 

Hi DC,
Brakes would be complex as they're already LED. THe one thing you could do is putr LED's in the dead part of the Tail (where it goes into the trunk/hatchback lid). That is not lit up (reflective I guess) so that may be a mod for you?

Amber is better for fog but I don't think they are going to be bright enough to do any good as fogs either way.

 

That mod sounds interesting if I can figure out how to get in there - and hey, hook them up to a mercury tilt switch that lights (or brightens) them on deceleration (or going downhill, but that's fine too).

Hmmm, have to take a look at that one. I have a machine shop, so mods aren't too scary or difficult if I can figure out how to get the original off without damage.

 

Yeah I haven't ventured into that area yet either. It would be nice to have that part of the tail light lit (kinda looks like it should anyway but doesn't).

One reason why I opted out of leasing the Volt... I knew I had to tinker with this bad boy!

 

Yup! I've already added a high power inverter for emergency AC power out of it, am going to do the LED/HID lights thing, and being an EE, have ordered a charging cable and plan to develop a much smarter charging station for those of us who like me, are on solar power and don't want to have to plug and unplug the car as excess solar electricity does or doesn't happen. Got the SAE J1772 spec, and it looks like what I want - a smart diversion load for the home system - is more than possible. If GM meets the spec, that is.

 

DCFusor, this project might be of some help: http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/

 

I'll check into this, thanks a bunch! My outfit already makes a small uP based PCB that would adapt nicely to this purpose, but their experiences might save me a bunch of time and effort (the devil is always in the details when going from a spec not everyone meets perfectly) - I too am an open source advocate, and we already publish our hardware and software design info on other things we make and sell.

Here's a pic of the board I was thinking of using, here it's in a standard radiation counter we make.

Pic came out kinda big, sorry. More on my forums linked in my sig.

Ah, downloaded their stuff - it's looking real good - their code is even clearly written and easy to understand (rare!). I'd be using a different uP, but that's no big deal for me. We like PIC from Microchip around here, and use C ourselves. No big differences there and it looks like either one is overkill for this task.

The big question is - did GM meet the spec on being able to vary the pilot duty cycle to get the car to draw more and less current without an unplug-replug cycle, and I guess I'm just going to have to find that out myself on my car. At present, switching AC power into the supplied charger cable drives the car nuts - horn chirps, though it works. Kind of a bang-bang solution to an analog problem, though.

Nice to have open source ahead of the proprietary overpriced guys - again.

 

The open-evse project is fairly well tested. The mynissanleaf forum has a great thread showing the evolution of the project http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2736&sid=ce8bf5b88a19a9afb5095139d837ba48&start=230
and continued here (updated board pictures and J1772 cable sourcing conversation) http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6546

The board designs they've published do not have the high-voltage AC components on the board for liability reasons (I think?), but you can easily use their PCB design and just wire the relay output to your own high-voltage relay board. Their J1772 implementation (both hardware and software) have been fully tested with a Nissan Leaf. The Volt had a few bugs in the J1772 implementation, but all 2012 models or 2011 models with the software update are fixed.

Seems you've got a good grasp on PCB designs and might want to roll your own, so at the very least their open-source microcontroller software can give you a big head start!

The main challenge right now seems to be getting the J1772 connector and cable at a decent price. I'm holding off on building my open-evse until people have found a good quality J1772 cable at a decent price.

 

Thanks much TopSpeed!!!!! Really appreciate it!

 

Thanks again Mike1 - we've probably strayed too far off topic for this thread (which is a good one, and I'll be duping it myself on my Volt). I'll start another when I have stuff to report on this project - I know there are other solar guys here. And yes, the price of that connector is the limit, and the reason GM and others can charge so much for so little - they're not paying that price, or close to it, count on that. But we little guys can't just order that shipping container load from some outfit in China to get a more realistic price (yet). We'll see if there's the demand there and if there is, I'll go for that. And yes, embedded computer product design is how my outfit made us all able to retire young - we're pretty good at it. PCB layout is no problem whatever. I'm just too lazy to do the Arduino learning curve and buy new tools if I don't have to, and I don't. Adding some data logging output would be nice too, eh?

 

Thanks again for your help Top Speed, I did the license plate lights with the 2 LED 6k version and LOVE it! Match my HIDs almost to the T. Looks legit!

-Dan

 

How do you access the front overhead/reading lights? I'd try prying around the edges but I'm afraid I'll break the cover.

 

Disregard my post, I figured out how to remove the cover on all the interior lights (gently pry off the cover around the edges).

Top_Speed1 - I replaced the backup light with the same one you suggested and it seems to be quite a bit less powerful than the stock light. The LED license plate lights overpower the back up light which is contrary to what you've seem to experience. I received two bulbs, one didn't work at all and the other I had to glue back together after the lens separated from the base. This one did work, however, it is not very bright.

 

I have had all led interior lights with red map lights since about March. I really like the red lights because I have light issues with my eyes and they don't mess with my vision. I can engage them and see what I need to see and be looking at the road again in no time! I am contemplating switching the main lights to red as well.

 

Drathen
If you have the 7watt with ellipsoidal lens and it's not bright then you have a bad one and I would return especially since the other didn't work? I took off the lens on mine but someone else here is using w the lens. I see some others on eBay with same look and they say 7 watt but you always wonder. In Chinese production there is no real governing of their production and they basically can call anything a x-watt led bulb.

Make sure you got "true" 7 watt b/c 7 watts of LED is naturally very bright (as the license lights u mentioned are 4x .5w for a total of 2watts / the other link I gave was the 2x .5w or 1 watt).

 

Is this the switchback lamp for the Volt's front turn signals?

http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED-...ED-Bulbs/Turn-Signal-LED/White-LED/TYPE-2-DUAL-COLOR-CHANGING-p7589718-1-2.html

It says it's 7443 size while the Sylvania site says 7444NA is the spec.. Are they compatible?
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/AutoLRG-Results.htm

 

Getting access to interior lights.

How do you remove the interior light covers?