Thanks Steverino?? None of the fluid reservoir tanks in my 2011 Volt or my 2017 Bolt have a float that I have seen. For sure the battery coolant reservoirs do not.
Thanks Steverino?? None of the fluid reservoir tanks in my 2011 Volt or my 2017 Bolt have a float that I have seen. For sure the battery coolant reservoirs do not.
Steve, I'm 99% sure the battery coolant reservoir in my 2015 has a float switch at the bottom. I have removed the sensor from the reservoir and bench tested it. It is a simple magnetic switch and can be activated by attaching an ohmmeter and then placing a magnet near the base. The float switch has a float and a magnet at the bottom. The float holds the magnet up until the fluid level gets too low, then the magnet falls to the bottom of the tank, activating the sensor which is mounted just below it. Your 2011 didn't come with the float switch from the factory, but it should have been added by a dealership when it was retrofitted.?? None of the fluid reservoir tanks in my 2011 Volt or my 2017 Bolt have a float that I have seen. For sure the battery coolant reservoirs do not.
The only way I could see it would be to drain the tank and use a flashlight. The only service manual I have is for a 2012, so it wouldn't show up there. I'm thinking you're right about the float being non-replaceable and installed when the tank was molded.Maybe I'm wrong.But I don't see one in the tank. I'm not finding one in parts diagrams either. Could it be a non-replaceable part molded in when the tank was made?
Hey Alkers. Mine was diagnosed as having a stuck float in the reservoir, which is $733 at the two dealers I checked. That was a no go for me, so I just had them clear all the codes and drove it home on hold. Now my drive home was probably only 20 minutes or so, but the warning did not come back. I ordered the bypass and let the car sit until today, when I had a chance to get it installed. No CELs or warnings when I briefly turned it onI have the SHVCS error currently and the only dealer is 2+ hours drive. I want them to clear the codes and replace the sensor so that the error doesn't return before I get home again to install the defeat. Does this make sense or does the dealer clearing the codes keep the car error free for a while even with the original sensor in place?
I should add I've ordered a vx nano so I can reprogramme the modules myself to clear the codesI ended up making the trip to the dealer and they then told me after a four hour wait that their technician wasn't in that day and I'd have to make another appointment - complete waste of a trip.
In the meantime, my sensor came and I installed it.
I'm just not clear on the last step of the instructions, should I put the sensor back in place underneath the reservoir and then cap it with the connector that the defeat came connected to?
I don't need to do anything with the two wires coming from this connector?
Can I not remove the sensor all together once the defeat is installed?
The male plug with the wire pigtail is not necessary, it just fills the hole in the sensor to keep junk out of there. I just bent the wires back upon themselves and wrapped with electrical tape before plugging it in to the bottom of the resevoir. Good question on removing the sensor from the bottom of the resevoir... If it doesn't cause a leak or anything (not sure exactly what is going on down there), I don't see why it couldn't be removed. That said, I found getting the wire unplugged pretty frustrating so I won't be messing with mineI'm just not clear on the last step of the instructions, should I put the sensor back in place underneath the reservoir and then cap it with the connector that the defeat came connected to?
I don't need to do anything with the two wires coming from this connector? Can I not remove the sensor all together once the defeat is installed?
Anyone, anyone? Bueller? My car was babied before I got it, and completely unmolested, so I'm thinking that overflow just dangles behind the right headlight?One last question, and the reason this is a bit of a hijack, where is the overflow hose from the battery coolant reservoir supposed to go? In the process of finding a place to Velcro my switch bypass, I discovered that my overflow tube just goes kind of behind the right headlight and hangs there. Is it supposed to be clipped to something or go into a hole somewhere?
Um, what?Aka ... Dangler Doug!
Mine turns down before the headlight cavity. I can't tell where it ends up but it doesn't feel like it is connected to anything.Um, what?
Seriously though, does the vent tube not have a proper home?
I want to second what Supe said about the age of your 12-volt battery. Eight years is exceptionally long life for that battery! Even if it's not contributing to your present SHVCS woes, it'll certainly be giving you other, equally-irritating problems before long. You're better off replacing it.If your running the 8 year old 12 volt battery it is known to cause weird random issues , like low propulsion ( high voltage battery not loading initially so the car runs in gas mode for 15 minutes ) and various other random issues i will say you are lucky as most of them die around the 4 year mark. [... snip ...] There is no guarantee the 12 volt will fix it but there is a good chance it won't hurt.
Not so sure about this bit, though. If the doors were left open, after a few minutes the 12V battery protector circuit should have cut off any drain (eg. cabin lights, etc.). Of course, if it's on its last legs to begin with, that might not happen quickly enough to matter.( Mine died in the body shop cause they left car doors open overnight and once it drains completely it's downhill from there.
I can’t tell from your wording whether you had the reprogramming done after installing the WOT sensor. ONCE set, you cannot delete the codes yourself unless you go through the process of subscribing to. the GM system. I cannot tell from your wording whether you had the dealer reinstall the necessary software to permanently clear the code AFTER installing the WOT sensor or not. I do not believe this has anything to do with your 12V battery.Hi guys, I've got a 2012 with the shvcs message. Took it to the dealership while it was under warranty and they couldn't find a leak. They cleared the codes and it popped back up when the weather changed. I'm out of warranty now.
I've added the WOT sensor and reprogrammed the hybrid system but after some driving it comes back on.
I don’t believe anyone has ever reported a cracked charge port causing theWhat about the charging port? Has that been known to cause this problem?