Thanks Steverino
I never looked at the tank all that closely, just going by what they told/sent me. I figured in either case that the switch bypass would fix the issue, whether there was something inside the tank telling the switch (incorrectly) that the level was low OR if it was a bad switch. Please correct me if I am wrong, but as long as the SHVCS warning isn't being displayed, I can just install the bypass and it shouldn't come back? Doug
Steve, I'm 99% sure the battery coolant reservoir in my 2015 has a float switch at the bottom. I have removed the sensor from the reservoir and bench tested it. It is a simple magnetic switch and can be activated by attaching an ohmmeter and then placing a magnet near the base. The float switch has a float and a magnet at the bottom. The float holds the magnet up until the fluid level gets too low, then the magnet falls to the bottom of the tank, activating the sensor which is mounted just below it. Your 2011 didn't come with the float switch from the factory, but it should have been added by a dealership when it was retrofitted.
The only way I could see it would be to drain the tank and use a flashlight. The only service manual I have is for a 2012, so it wouldn't show up there. I'm thinking you're right about the float being non-replaceable and installed when the tank was molded.
Hey Alkers. Mine was diagnosed as having a stuck float in the reservoir, which is $733 at the two dealers I checked. That was a no go for me, so I just had them clear all the codes and drove it home on hold. Now my drive home was probably only 20 minutes or so, but the warning did not come back. I ordered the bypass and let the car sit until today, when I had a chance to get it installed. No CELs or warnings when I briefly turned it on
I should add I've ordered a vx nano so I can reprogramme the modules myself to clear the codes
The male plug with the wire pigtail is not necessary, it just fills the hole in the sensor to keep junk out of there. I just bent the wires back upon themselves and wrapped with electrical tape before plugging it in to the bottom of the resevoir. Good question on removing the sensor from the bottom of the resevoir... If it doesn't cause a leak or anything (not sure exactly what is going on down there), I don't see why it couldn't be removed. That said, I found getting the wire unplugged pretty frustrating so I won't be messing with mine
Anyone, anyone? Bueller? My car was babied before I got it, and completely unmolested, so I'm thinking that overflow just dangles behind the right headlight?
Mine turns down before the headlight cavity. I can't tell where it ends up but it doesn't feel like it is connected to anything.Um, what?
Seriously though, does the vent tube not have a proper home?
I want to second what Supe said about the age of your 12-volt battery. Eight years is exceptionally long life for that battery! Even if it's not contributing to your present SHVCS woes, it'll certainly be giving you other, equally-irritating problems before long. You're better off replacing it.
Not so sure about this bit, though. If the doors were left open, after a few minutes the 12V battery protector circuit should have cut off any drain (eg. cabin lights, etc.). Of course, if it's on its last legs to begin with, that might not happen quickly enough to matter.
I can’t tell from your wording whether you had the reprogramming done after installing the WOT sensor. ONCE set, you cannot delete the codes yourself unless you go through the process of subscribing to. the GM system. I cannot tell from your wording whether you had the dealer reinstall the necessary software to permanently clear the code AFTER installing the WOT sensor or not. I do not believe this has anything to do with your 12V battery.
I don’t believe anyone has ever reported a cracked charge port causing the
