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Thanks for doing this. $29.00 is more than worth it to avoid having to deal with my local GM dealer, which is one of those dealers who will try anything to deny warranty coverage.

They tried to do it when my heater (Aux coolant pump) died and they also flat-out refused to remedy some other issues. GM took the word of the dealer and offered ZERO help. I love my Volt, but I doubt if I will ever buy another GM vehicle again.
 

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I guess you didn't read post #13 in this thread...



KNS
I did read the whole thread. My 2011 has the battery tunnel structural enhancement which also includes wiring in the coolant level sensor. No problems so far, but why risk it when I check coolant levels monthly anyway?
 

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At the dealer right now waiting for them to finish the diagnosis of this issue. This is the third time I've been here this year and the 7th time since I purchased the Volt new.
They came back and said the fluid level sensor needs to be replaced along with the wiring harness. All of the components they added during the recall modification they performed in 2012. They say they'll replace the fluid sensor but the wiring harness will be $460 (down from $700 they normally charge). I refused they payment for the wiring harness and they're currently trying to get it covered under warranty.
I ordered this sensor bypass from WOT last weekend but if the wiring harness is bad, I don't think it will help. It seems strange to me that they wouldn't cover the repair of the wiring harness considering this modification most likely harmed it. I might have to do some exploring of the wiring harness when I do the WOT modification to see what they actually did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
At the dealer right now waiting for them to finish the diagnosis of this issue. This is the third time I've been here this year and the 7th time since I purchased the Volt new.
They came back and said the fluid level sensor needs to be replaced along with the wiring harness. All of the components they added during the recall modification they performed in 2012. They say they'll replace the fluid sensor but the wiring harness will be $460 (down from $700 they normally charge). I refused they payment for the wiring harness and they're currently trying to get it covered under warranty.
I ordered this sensor bypass from WOT last weekend but if the wiring harness is bad, I don't think it will help. It seems strange to me that they wouldn't cover the repair of the wiring harness considering this modification most likely harmed it. I might have to do some exploring of the wiring harness when I do the WOT modification to see what they actually did.
Unfortunately it's somewhat normal for the dealer to start chasing connections and the harness if they have replaced the coolant sensor before.
They have a hard time coming to terms that the replacement sensor has failed so quickly. (not typical)
Instead they should be diagnosing and replacing the sensor for free (GM parts warranty is 1 year) BUT if they can point the finger at something else, "well it's your car" (and problem) prevails.

In many cases I have been involved with there is nothing wrong with the harness even on the campaign'd 2011s and 2012s.
However they cant even unplug the sensor to test the circuit without triggering the latched codes, initiating a new round of WTF? and having to reprogram HPCM2 AGAIN! (trust me I went around and around in that cycle a few times)

Really the only DTC that doesn't result in this "latched" condition is IF you actually just have low coolant , setting a P1FFE
With this single code set alone, you can actually top up the coolant, and clear the code normally. These cases however have been rare, and IF someone simply being consciences happens to unplug the sensor (with the car ON) during the service, well, I think you know what happens.

In any case if you get the car back with the message no longer being displayed. Just install WOTs coolant level sensor as per the included instructions and you wont have to bother with this again. ;)

WOT
 

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At the dealer right now waiting for them to finish the diagnosis of this issue. This is the third time I've been here this year and the 7th time since I purchased the Volt new.
They came back and said the fluid level sensor needs to be replaced along with the wiring harness. All of the components they added during the recall modification they performed in 2012. They say they'll replace the fluid sensor but the wiring harness will be $460 (down from $700 they normally charge). I refused they payment for the wiring harness and they're currently trying to get it covered under warranty.
I ordered this sensor bypass from WOT last weekend but if the wiring harness is bad, I don't think it will help. It seems strange to me that they wouldn't cover the repair of the wiring harness considering this modification most likely harmed it. I might have to do some exploring of the wiring harness when I do the WOT modification to see what they actually did.
Almost identical to my situation. Be aware that the "harness" they are replacing for $700 dollars is an 8 dollar connector with 2 wires which is spliced into the actual wiring harness. Very unlikely IMO they are replacing the entire wiring harness with an unspliced one. I did mine in about 20 minutes and did lineman splices then covered them with solder and heat shrink. Easy job except for being a tad tight in that area. Still waiting for my bypass to come in so can't comment on if it's all fixed or not.
 

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My first sensor failed while towing up a steep grade. I made the mistake of getting it fixed at the dealer because they told me a wiring harness needed to be replaced, which I looked up the part# for and was a large job. Afterward I looked at their work and they really only spliced in two wires going to the new sensor for $320.78.

A few weeks later I was climbing a steep grade full throttle at 27 MPH (propulsion power reduced) and I got the SHVCS light on again. Using the VCX Nano I see that its P1FFF Isolation loss/Coolant level sensor.

I am NOT HAPPY with GM.

I just sent the 29$, what a bargain!
 

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Checking in to let WOT know the plug has been received and installed on my Gen1 as of this morn.

My Volt is now charging following lifting the negative terminal off of the 12V AGM battery directions from the instruction notes resulting in success with NO DTCs currently latched!;)
 

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ok, I have ordered mine. Not even aware this was an issue but obviously it does happen and the dealer fix is sketchy. I would rather avoid it now that my bumper to bumper is expired.

I do not know the general instructions for this, however, is it at all possible to connect up to the old sensor with some random voltage and an LED in a strategic location to know that the real sensor is working so that you do not have to pop the hood? I am thinking of an LED poking out of the front or under the dash etc...

Any idea if it is simply a normally open or normally closed type of switch? If working and normally closed, install a green led, if normally open, install a red led.

Just a thought.
 

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ok, I have ordered mine. Not even aware this was an issue but obviously it does happen and the dealer fix is sketchy. I would rather avoid it now that my bumper to bumper is expired.

I do not know the general instructions for this, however, is it at all possible to connect up to the old sensor with some random voltage and an LED in a strategic location to know that the real sensor is working so that you do not have to pop the hood? I am thinking of an LED poking out of the front or under the dash etc...

Any idea if it is simply a normally open or normally closed type of switch? If working and normally closed, install a green led, if normally open, install a red led.

Just a thought.
I like that idea.

I do check my coolant about 4 times a year and that seems to be enough. Really GM should address this as a non latching DTC. No reason a coolant level should require a trip to and bill from the dealer.
 

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Any idea if it is simply a normally open or normally closed type of switch? If working and normally closed, install a green led, if normally open, install a red led.

Just a thought.

From what I understand, this battery coolant level sensor is a resistance value rather then normally open or closed type circuit.
 

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From what I understand, this battery coolant level sensor is a resistance value rather then normally open or closed type circuit.
Ahh, well that would make it more of a challenge. I forget I have an ICE sometimes and rarely open the hood. I will have to get back in the habit!
 

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...

I do not know the general instructions for this, however, is it at all possible to connect up to the old sensor with some random voltage and an LED in a strategic location to know that the real sensor is working so that you do not have to pop the hood? I am thinking of an LED poking out of the front or under the dash etc...

Any idea if it is simply a normally open or normally closed type of switch? If working and normally closed, install a green led, if normally open, install a red led.

Just a thought.
I'd think you would need a reliable sensor as the first step in designing a work-around solution such as you describe.

What's to prevent the known flaky sensor from triggering the LED randomly, or worse not at all? Best not to rely on it at all, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
ok, I have ordered mine. Not even aware this was an issue but obviously it does happen and the dealer fix is sketchy. I would rather avoid it now that my bumper to bumper is expired.

I do not know the general instructions for this, however, is it at all possible to connect up to the old sensor with some random voltage and an LED in a strategic location to know that the real sensor is working so that you do not have to pop the hood? I am thinking of an LED poking out of the front or under the dash etc...

Any idea if it is simply a normally open or normally closed type of switch? If working and normally closed, install a green led, if normally open, install a red led.

Just a thought.
Well I understand what you're saying but technically there already IS an indicator if the level sensor is working properly or not- that's the latched DTCs and the damn Service High Voltage Charging System message! ;)

Actually there's only 0.5V or room to play with in the little divider network the sensor uses, else the DTCs trigger. So WOT's Coolant Level Sensor required a couple of revisions as the wiring schematic was slightly incorrect in its representation of the sensor. Plus we wanted to land right in the mid point of that 0.5V window so that extreme cold or heat wouldn't skew it far enough to trigger DTCs which required a potentiometer (and the reason why we completely sealed it in plasti-dip so that moisture or corrosion won't ever impact it's operation)

A few people have installed them successfully already and have gotten back to me with "thumbs up" :D
The preferred installation method (aka Method#1= less risky) is to disconnect battery negative while installing but that can mess you up if you have an upcoming emissions test.

But the included instructions also explain (Method #2)how to place the car in a dormant mode to install it. I use that method ALL the time and it's never failed me, but I'm never really worried because I have what I need to reflash HPCM2 on-hand.
BUT If someone doesn't follow the instructions correctly or something else goes wrong (eg someone uses the remote FOB or OnStar Remotelink that wakes up the car while the sensor is unplugged) it would mean having to visit the dealer which is exactly what it's intended to eliminate in the first place! lol

WOT
 

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Well then, after checking when my 2011 will need emissions inspection, I will just disconnect the negative battery cable when the part arrives.

I'm sure I will have enough more gas miles before 2017 June. (Just did a EMM, but FMM should be along in a few months as well, and who knows, I may need to take another trip in the mean time.)

Thanks WOT!
 

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Got the part beginning of last week, was able to get it installed for a Saturday visit to a dealer. Note - my car already had the SHVCS message tripped and it was suggested I pay $400 for a harness repair. I paid $90 for that diagnosis, another 10 or so dollars for the harness which I installed myself, and another $90 fee for "diagnosis"/flashing at a different dealer. All this plus the 20 dollars for this part comes to about half what the original dealer wanted to do (which wouldn't have permanently fixed the problem).

So I took the car to a new dealer and give them very specific instructions what to do. Nonetheless, it wasn't translated and the tech apparently started doing diagnosis and eventually I was called back for some questions :)

We found some strange stuff with your car. We found a roll of electrical tape and what appears to be some sort of jumper over your coolant sensor. Do you know who worked on your car last?!
Oh yeah, I did. I was wondering where that tape went (embarassing!)! I explained that the bypass was put there by me because my coolant sensor had too many issues and explained I just need the code reset. Mechanic said the code wouldn't reset, so I elaborated on needing to reflash the HPCM2 even if the software was the same. He said he had never heard of this, but begrudgingly agreed.

10 minutes later he said that fixed the issue and asked where I found this out as he's had to do like "20 of these tanks". I told him I found it here but didn't elaborate too much.

Car works great, so glad to have it back! Overall I'm glad the dealer informed me of unusual stuff, and especially glad they agreed to perform my request. Thanks WOT for this wonderful fix. I doubt I will ever see this obnoxious message again.
 

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How long did it take you guys to get your part? I ordered a couple of weeks ago, but nothing in the mail yet.
 

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How long did it take you guys to get your part? I ordered a couple of weeks ago, but nothing in the mail yet.
I'll let you know when mine arrives, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
How long did it take you guys to get your part? I ordered a couple of weeks ago, but nothing in the mail yet.
Son #2 is constructing them to my specifications. He lives with his wife-to-be in Calgary, AB so they ship out of there via Air Mail. Since he only goes to the post office once a week I had stated in the original post they will be mailed out within 7 business days from time of payment.

Then the delivery standard for the airmail small packet is 4-10 days (depending on destination state).
So this potentially stretches things to close to 2-weeks.
Sorry but that's about they best they can do.

Check to see if it's been significantly longer than that (say 3-weeks?) since payment then feel free to simply PM me your name and mailing address in case there was an issue/error made.

*NOTE* Apparently one of the things that has delayed some mail-outs is that PayPal sometimes does not forward the mailing address.
So please insure you type in your mailing address in the message field when submitting payment. This will expedite things somewhat.

Thanks for the support!
WOT
 
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