[icharry]

So I got TX Chris' adapter to connect my old refitted dryer outlet to the EVSE that came with the Volt. Now I'm
getting kicked out of the garage (wife's new car gets the best spot). Will an extension cord like this be ok to use?
HERE

If not please suggest one that will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HWRS7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[jcanoe]

So I got TX Chris' adapter to connect my old refitted dryer outlet to the EVSE that came with the Volt. Now I'm
getting kicked out of the garage (wife's new car gets the best spot). Will an extension cord like this be ok to use?
HERE

If not please suggest one that will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HWRS7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It should work but the question is for how long before the extension cord plug or socket overheats. It could cause a fire. Every electrical junction you add between the wall junction box/outlet and the EVSE is another potential point of failure due to water, corrosion, faulty connection leading to high resistance, heat and a possible fire. The LED lights in the extension cord are just a gimmick, create more heat (something you don't want more of at either end of the extension cord connection.) A better option would be to measure how much extension cord distance is needed and make up your own cord. You can use 12/3 or 10/3 wire and a commercial grade plug and socket, either way the most likely points of failure are where the adapter cable is plugged into the extension cord or where the extension cord is plugged into the OE EVSE (the latest generation OE EVSE plug has a thermal sensor molded in the plug to sense overheating, stop charging.) Remember, electric dryers run for a maximum of perhaps 90 minutes at a time, your 2017 Volt will be charging for up to 6 hours at a time.

 

[Bill Step]

I'd look for a 10/3 extension cord,and if they give a strand count,go for the highest.

 

[lagagnon]

You will be drawing 12AMPS continuous for about 6 hours. Keep the terminal ends clean and bright on the extension cord and you "should" be OK. The max. current capacity of 3 wire 12 gauge is 20 AMPS. You can reduce that by x.58 in high ambient air temperatures: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html

So if it were me I would try to find 10 gauge, same quality...

 

[edk-austin]

12 gauge at 25 ft is fine. I wouldn't hesitant to use 14 gauge at 25 ft. The EVSE (g2) itself is 16 gauge. Just make sure all plugs fit tight, and don't get hot. I ran some tests with 100' of 14 gauge @12A just today. Even 200'. And 350' to see where the 8A limits are. It helps that I had 123VAC today.

 

[Don M]

You will be using a 120 volt extension cord on 240 volts. Some cords are made with wire rated for 300 volts and many are NOT. For you, the most important thing will be to make sure whatever cord you buy is made with wire rated for 300 volts

Don

 

[marcusm]

Go with a 10/3 cord. I bought from Amazon use two 25 foot cords to connect via the adapters the 40 amp outlets on the side of my house to the EVSEs (not OEMs, dual voltage duosidas in a shed), then connect to our volts, each drawing 15 or so amps at 240. No problems no overheating but use connector protectors. Plenty of safety margin for the volt with this setup which I’ve been using for almost two years now.

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[Barry]

Since you are already using the adapter, you have already introduced an extra connector into your charge set up. This extension cord will add yet another connector. What you are proposing might well work, but it goes against the owner's manual and is not ideal.

Is there any other way you can set this up? Is there an outlet closer to your car, or can you move the existing outlet or add a new one? You could also consider charging at 120V, which would eliminate one of your connectors and possibly both if the outlet happens to be closer. Many owners find they can charge fine at 120V.

 

[Saint]

Owners manual is very explicit against using any kind of extension cords. It is probably against electrical code in your area as well.

And the adapter is a no no. Just because internals are the same as another product doesn't make two parts identical. There are various tests that are performed for the rated voltage on OEM chargers. It is hard to understand why people still insist on using it at 240V risking their homes and their lives.

In case of any failures or accidents your insurance claim will be rejected as well since you are using things beyond their designed capacity/usage.

I am an electrical engineer and can easily do such things much safer/reliable than an average member here. But I am not doing because I don't know how to perform all the tests required before using them. And I am not gonna pay tens of thousands of dollar to a specialist company to do the tests.

https://www.ul.com/code-authorities/electrical-code/electric-vehicle-charging/

https://standardscatalog.ul.com/standards/en/standard_2202

If I were OP I would have some electrician properly wire another outlet and buy a certified L2 charger. I would sell OEM L1 off craigslist to offset the cost. No need to risk things you need for things you don't need.

 

[JRRF]

The short answer is, this is a really lousy idea.

The adapter you bought for 240v works well, but is already a stretch of components. Now you want to add another link that is designed to carry 120v and put 240v through it. I don't understand how you could ever think this is wise. The only way I would even dream of this solution would be to buy a 20A/240v extension cord, and put it between the adapter and your wall outlet.

 

[Barry]

Another option is to use a J1772 extension cord which goes on the other end, the car side, of your EVSE. I linked an Amazon product below. This still introduces another connector, but the cord would at least be a UL listed product used in accordance with its design parameters.

However, these are so much more expensive than a standard extension cord, it starts to look like the cost of buying a new EVSE, so it may not be the best solution for your needs if you are going to spend this much money.

https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-J1772-Extension-Charging-Stations/dp/B01CF8I4UW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537879785&sr=8-4&keywords=j1772+extension+cord

 

[Tacoma]

So I got TX Chris' adapter to connect my old refitted dryer outlet to the EVSE that came with the Volt. Now I'm
getting kicked out of the garage (wife's new car gets the best spot). Will an extension cord like this be ok to use?
HERE

If not please suggest one that will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HWRS7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which type of dryer plug is this exactly?
Is the idea you are going to run your OEM charger at 240 V?

 

[Tacoma]

Here is how I upgraded to 240 VAC. One consideration being, you have down stream wiring that will be rated at a lower current rating than the wall outlet (in your case a dryer one at 30-50A).

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?326147-Question-about-charging&p=4611549#post4611549

 

[wws]

Another option is to use a J1772 extension cord which goes on the other end, the car side, of your EVSE. I linked an Amazon product below. This still introduces another connector, but the cord would at least be a UL listed product used in accordance with its design parameters.

However, these are so much more expensive than a standard extension cord, it starts to look like the cost of buying a new EVSE, so it may not be the best solution for your needs if you are going to spend this much money...

Good advice.

For various reasons, including the need to go around a couple of cars, I made my own 50' extension cord with 6-20 plug and receptacle for my TM3. Thing is, by the time I paid for 50' of 12-3 SJOOW cable and commercial quality 6-20 plug and receptacle, I was almost half way to paying for a J-1772 extension cable like the ICE-Breaker or J-Long. And am getting none of the safety benefits of doing the extension on the J-1772 side. But it's only a temporary thing until I run some conduit and install an additional EVSE...

 

[GregDennis]

I’m new to the forum and this thread. Thinking of buying 2018 or 2019 Volt for cold weather Vermont. I don’t have a garage. Questions:

Has anyone had an experience running an extension cord from an outside outlet (newish house, built six years ago) to charge a Gen2? Does that work OK and is it sufficient to charge a Gen2 overnight in cold weather?

It would be pricey for me to get a higher voltage setup out to the car, so I would need to charge with an extension cord.

Any details or specific recommendations would be much appreciated. I’m not very technically knowledgeable (some of the discuss9ion about specifics on this thread is a little over my head) so the more straightforward the better, and thanks for any input.

- Greg
Middlebury, VT

 

[marcusm]

I’m new to the forum and this thread. Thinking of buying 2018 or 2019 Volt for cold weather Vermont. I don’t have a garage. Questions:

Has anyone had an experience running an extension cord from an outside outlet (newish house, built six years ago) to charge a Gen2? Does that work OK and is it sufficient to charge a Gen2 overnight in cold weather?

It would be pricey for me to get a higher voltage setup out to the car, so I would need to charge with an extension cord.

Any details or specific recommendations would be much appreciated. I’m not very technically knowledgeable (some of the discuss9ion about specifics on this thread is a little over my head) so the more straightforward the better, and thanks for any input.

- Greg
Middlebury, VT

Yes. Will work fine. I charge outside too. Get a 10 gauge weatherproof indoor/outdoor extension cord. Use that plus connection sealers for the connections. Both available on Amazon. Try to keep the body of your evse out of the elements if possible by using a small sealed box or crate which the cords can come in and out of. What is the amp rating of the line that has the outside outlet? It is never a good idea to use any other device on that line when you were charging the car. Hopefully it’s a 20 amp line. If so you can charge it 12 A 120 otherwise limited to 8A for safety. Make sure the actual outside outlet is good and rugged and not loose, and well connected.


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