I am getting fault code P0114 on my 2012 Volt. I need to take the sensor out to see if its bad or if the wiring is bad. Unless that code means something else on the Volt? Just broke 100k miles on mine and this is the first check engine light ever on the car.
Where is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor?
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Now I have the high voltage error and its not charging. Its like everything starts happening after 100k miles.
How do I reset the computer? That's what the dealership did before instead of actually addressing the problem. I dont want to pay them for what they didn't do while it was in warranty.
How do I reset the computer? That's what the dealership did before instead of actually addressing the problem. I dont want to pay them for what they didn't do while it was in warranty.
From what I read about the high voltage error I have to buy a $130 unit and hook it to a PC. All that because coolant is low (they say the error is nothing else and that refilling coolent doesnt make it go away, from the big thread about it).
The temp sensor would be an easy fix if I knew where the thing was. Unless it's actually the Mass Air Flow sensor?
The temp sensor would be an easy fix if I knew where the thing was. Unless it's actually the Mass Air Flow sensor?
So nobody knows the answer to this? These sensors can fail in two ways: 1. Wiring 2. Sensor. If its wiring then it reports the air being very cold. If its the sensor it reports the air being really hot. My car is reporting it really hot.
Where is this sensor???? Please dont tell me I have to take my intake apart because its underneath it...
Where is this sensor???? Please dont tell me I have to take my intake apart because its underneath it...
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Yep, part of the MAS.
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If you are referring to the ambient air temp sensor, it is plugged into the plastic frame on the right (passenger side) of the front bumper's air intake area. You can get to it by removing the right (passenger side) wheel well liner and removing some plastic splash guards and most of the front air dam.
I (and others) replace the sensor for the winter with one that has a resistor across the two terminal pins to artificially trick the Volt into thinking it's warmer outside than it is. Why? It prevents ERDTT (Engine Running Do To Temperature) on short trips that don't require an engine assist to heat the cabin. Otherwise my engine will run when the outside temps are at or below 25°F regardless of how much battery I have.
I (and others) replace the sensor for the winter with one that has a resistor across the two terminal pins to artificially trick the Volt into thinking it's warmer outside than it is. Why? It prevents ERDTT (Engine Running Do To Temperature) on short trips that don't require an engine assist to heat the cabin. Otherwise my engine will run when the outside temps are at or below 25°F regardless of how much battery I have.
Was YOUR coolent low or was that just a dealer idea ?
as you said "All that because coolant is low"
because a glitch in the coolent sensor or cable that triggers the low coolent sequence of events is not the same as actually having a low level but eather way you will still have to have a module re-programed
Having the actual codes helps too.
as you said "All that because coolant is low"
because a glitch in the coolent sensor or cable that triggers the low coolent sequence of events is not the same as actually having a low level but eather way you will still have to have a module re-programed
Having the actual codes helps too.
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The OP is showing code P0114, which is for an intermittent intake air temperature circuit.
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Just so you know, that isn’t true.
That's usually true for other cars I have worked on but it seems your right the Volt may be different.
I think both issues below are related to the weeks and weeks of hot weather we are having where I live. My car is high mileage now so anything out of the ordinary could cause problems. Quick update and some info:
1. The "Service High Voltage Charging System" was triggered by low coolant. There may be a coolant leak. Dealership will have to find out. Only way to get rid of it is to take to dealership and have computer reset for $110 (there is a tool for this that requires PC software for $130 on Amazon according to other threads). I don't know if my extended warranty would cover the leak repair so if it doesn't I will just have to keep filling it with coolant until I sell/trade it. Winter/Fall temperatures need to hurry up and get here. This hot weather is making that system run a lot on my high mileage Volt.
2. The Volt is no longer reporting the P code for the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. The wires to the MAF plug look fine (I've seen worse) but my cars engine bay is super dusty which could be causing air intake issues although the air filter is clean. Most of the time the P code (check engine light) doesnt come on unless its over 90 degrees outside. That makes me think the MAF is dusty and needs to be cleaned out using throttle cleaner. It's strange how a tripped code would simply vanish after a while??? That doesn't happen on a normal car usually. I also don't understand why they wouldn't have a MAF code trip if its actually part of the unit. That's why I was searching so hard for the "air intake temp sensor".
I didn't realize 100,000 was high miles. My car is currently at 110,000 and I would like to get at least 200-250,000 miles out of it. I have to say, I haven't heard anyone consider 100k high miles since the 1980s.
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You really think 100k on a modern car is high milage?<deleted by moderator>
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do this name calling again and you will be banned.
Not sure if you're still on here or not, but I just finished adding my resistor to my sensor and installing it in my 2013 volt. I turned the car on and now it's reading -40 degrees. Does it take time for the car to learn a new sensor or is something else messed up? I did this obviously to bypass erdtt and unfortunately I have that constantly until this gets figured out. Thanks!
Sounds like you did something wrong. The resistor should fool the temp sensor to read HIGHER than ambient. I suspect the circuit is now open reading infinitely high resistance rather than a lower resistance which would be the result of a parallel resistor being added. Double check your work and be sure you didn't pull a wire out of the connector or break a wire.
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You may want to review ERDTT Modification Options
Thanks for the reply. After getting in the car this morning the temp is reading normal again, which is better than -40 but also not doing what I want it to. Maybe my connections with the resistor to the sensor weren't tight enough. I ended up using this resistor. Does that sound right?
1/8W METAL FILM FLAMEPROOF 39K OHM 2% AXIAL LEAD
The resistor is fine as long as it is installed well. I did not realize there was an initialization time period where it will read -40 (as Steverino's link above mentions). What is the actual temp vs: the OAT reading?
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