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I'd like to get rid of my POS emergency generator and get a 1500W inverter. Will the Volts DC/DC converter handle 1500 W continuous or should I go smaller like maybe 1000W (1500W surge)?
 

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APM, 14V DC-DC converter replacement

You may want to error on the cautious side for your Gen2. On the Gen1, the avail current capacity of newer model APM seems to have dropped from 165A down to 135A during the Gen1 lifecyle according to the OPs research in the above linked thread. I'm not sure how much of a beating the APM on the Gen2 can take compared to the older Gen1 version...
 

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I noticed there are lot more warnings in the '17 manual about adding accessories (compared to gen1). They generally say to stay below 200W total. Perhaps just being conservative and cautious (page 234) (or, perhaps just referring to the outlets?, as opposed to connecting to the battery):

Add-on equipment can drain the
vehicle's 12-volt battery, even if the
vehicle is not operating.
When adding electrical equipment, it
should only be connected using the
accessory power outlets. The
maximum power that can be
supplied by one accessory power
outlet, or spread across all power
outlets, is 200 watts or 15 amps.
Exceeding 200 watts or 15 amps
may cause erratic vehicle operation.
See Power Outlets page 99.
 

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If you want 1500 watts continuous I recommend a 3kw continuous minimum unit, I did that years ago with the cheapest thing you can buy (and work) and never had issues.

That said I would not worry too much about the volts 12v system, add the system temporarily plugging in the normal loads you will have (one at a time) and use a volt meter to monitor the battery, if it dips below 12.6 continously its too much, if not your golden.

The volts system is likely similar to every other inverter including the Prius in that its output increases as voltage decreases and the system will simply fall out if overtaxed and come right back when the load ends.
 

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A general rule of thumb is one needs 100ah of battery for every kw of AC load, even when there is a secondary source handling the average load ( APU in this case ). This is due to the AC peak load on the battery which can cause all sorts of issue and failures inside the battery.

While the Volts APU, to those that do not have design expertise in this area, would seem to be covering the load, the 120hz ripple the added inverter demands is all on the battery, which in a Volt is way undersized for safe operation the amp rating of the APU would suggest. In this application, that battery is more like a capacitor, as the load is AC, not DC.
 

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A general rule of thumb is one needs 100ah of battery for every kw of AC load, even when there is a secondary source handling the average load ( APU in this case ). This is due to the AC peak load on the battery which can cause all sorts of issue and failures inside the battery.

While the Volts APU, to those that do not have design expertise in this area, would seem to be covering the load, the 120hz ripple the added inverter demands is all on the battery, which in a Volt is way undersized for safe operation the amp rating of the APU would suggest. In this application, that battery is more like a capacitor, as the load is AC, not DC.
No offense but I have seen very small AGM starting batteries couple with a standard alternator handle big loads, an alternator is far inferior to the high frequency inverter in the volt at adjusting to quick demands, so I would say don't worry about it.
If his battery wears down faster, guess what, then he will need to buy a larger deep cycle when it shows signs of wearing out.

Micro discharges are (in my mind) the least of his worries with the moderately robust (but small) AGM battery in his volt.

I would be more worried about the noise in the volt wreaking havoc on the car, not the battery itself.
If he's under warranty and he gets a phantom cel, he would then need to consider a larger battery or a cap bank to clean things up.

Ah well, fix whats broke, but not before.
 
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