The biggest your current wiring is rated for.I'm going to get a Level 2 charger for the garage. What's the best amp (30 or 50 amp) setting for a Level 2 Clipper Creek portable/hardwired EVSE for my Gen 1 Volt and future EVs?
Well I'm thinking of just 50 amp but not hardwired so I can switch future EVSEs without having an electrician. I debating on setting in the garage or outside. I may end up getting a Gen 2 (2020 Volt since in winter having turn on the ice to help heat the car without Range anxiety) or wait for a Gen 3. Thanks for the reply. I'm within 50 miles daily.If wanting to plan ahead for your next car: check with an electrician and install the largest EVSE the electrical system will support.
If wanting to keep costs down: install an EVSE that supports your daily driving. Is it 50 or 100mi?
Volt only needs a 20-amp EVSE. If your daily driving is average, 20-amps will top off any EV overnight. Even a P100DL.
I thinking of not going hardwired in the garage and setup a PlugShare for EVs in my local area emergency quick charge. Paint the area green for EV parking only with a $ donation box if you're feeling generous for the charge time.The biggest your current wiring is rated for.I'm going to get a Level 2 charger for the garage. What's the best amp (30 or 50 amp) setting for a Level 2 Clipper Creek portable/hardwired EVSE for my Gen 1 Volt and future EVs?
If you running a whole new circuit, go big.
You can still plug a 16A L2 into a big outlet.
When you get a bigger EV you can then get a bigger EVSE
I'm getting a great deal since I'm only paying for the parts and not labor. So whatever highest say 50 amp should be adequate. Thank for the replies guys. I'll keep posting on my current status.I went with a 240V/30amp circuit for my hard wired CC LCS-25. It charges at about 11 MPH. That would handle a Tesla with routine daily driving.
But looking back I wish I had run a 50amp circuit with a NEMA 14-50 plug. That would feed a Tesla at about 27 MPH or anything else with ease.
Actually, the breaker can be sized to the wire (but not larger), with a lower rated plug being acceptable. The EVSE will only draw what it is rated for and not any more. The breaker is there to protect the circuit wiring.You have three parts: the breakers, the wire, and the outlet (assuming you're using a plug in EVSE). The ends, the breaker and outlet, are trivial to change. The wire not so much. So if you're installing and want some future proof ability, install the largest wire you can and don't worry about the breakers or the outlet. You can swap those out anytime. Note you'll want the breaker to match whatever EVSE you get BTW, so you'll want to change those out when if you increase the charge power.
Best practice would be to match the breaker to the appliance. Lots of people don't.Actually, the breaker can be sized to the wire (but not larger), with a lower rated plug being acceptable. The EVSE will only draw what it is rated for and not any more. The breaker is there to protect the circuit wiring.
Generally, if there is a receptacle involved, the breaker should match the receptacle. The NEC does allow some exceptions. One very common example is placing multiple daisy chained 15 amp 120v receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. Another is placing a NEMA 14-50 on a 40 amp, instead of a 50 amp, circuit.Best practice would be to match the breaker to the appliance. Lots of people don't.