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Unless you live in the desert, I doubt there is anything an owner can do other than charge to full daily (including time to rebalance the cells), and leave it plugged in whenever possible.
I second this. Ideally garaged with stable temps and always plugged in to maintain cell balance. If one cell is out of balance it causes undue wear and affects the whole system.

Also, check and keep up to date on software updates.
 

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I don't think they want to because there must be a bunch of non-degradation related failures and they don't want to skew the numbers. The real number of battery failures HAS to be greater than 0.01%, common sense dictates that as time progresses batteries will wear out over time and fail. Whether or not they are actually considered "degradation," it doesn't matter - a dead car that can't be driven on the HV battery to me is a degraded battery, IMO.
Agreed. There were somewhere around 150k-200k Volts produced according to the numbers I've read. A .01% degradation failure rate would be 15-20 cars total. We know there are more than that. If the total number was so low, let's say .02%, me running a business would be pushing that information to the media constantly, milking it for all it's worth. Instead we get word salad. Still, I'd like to know the actual data regardless of what it shows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
To correct a mistake in my original post: actually my car's Voltec warranty is still in force and will be until Jan. 30, 2022 (8 years after I bought it new) -- a date which will surely come before the car passes 100,000 miles (it's only at 66,000 now). It's kept outside all the time, but it never gets really hot in Asheville, NC. And the Volt is always plugged in when not out on the road. So please forgive me if I ask again: is there anything I should pay particular attention to, or have checked at the dealer in the coming months before the Voltec warranty expires? I checked at nhtsa.gov and there are "0 Unrepaired Recalls associated with this VIN." Specifically, I guess, I'm wondering if I should ask the dealer to test my HV battery, even if I have to pay for that test? Many thanks to all for your helpful comments.

(Edit: since my Volt still has the dreaded clicking disease, maybe I could have the bearings replaced at the same dealer visit.)
 

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...How do you USE this information?
You avoid getting stranded. You rent a car. You learn the maker has one priority over all else, profit. Investor returns.The car is a corporate resource as a means to that end, Charlie Brown. Some people would report it stolen then set it on fire.
 

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To correct a mistake in my original post: actually my car's Voltec warranty is still in force and will be until Jan. 30, 2022 (8 years after I bought it new) -- a date which will surely come before the car passes 100,000 miles (it's only at 66,000 now). It's kept outside all the time, but it never gets really hot in Asheville, NC. And the Volt is always plugged in when not out on the road. So please forgive me if I ask again: is there anything I should pay particular attention to, or have checked at the dealer in the coming months before the Voltec warranty expires? I checked at nhtsa.gov and there are "0 Unrepaired Recalls associated with this VIN." Specifically, I guess, I'm wondering if I should ask the dealer to test my HV battery, even if I have to pay for that test? Many thanks to all for your helpful comments.

(Edit: since my Volt still has the dreaded clicking disease, maybe I could have the bearings replaced at the same dealer visit.)
There is nothing to test, other than ensuring the car runs fine from a fully charged state to a fully depleted state (on generator). If no errors are shown on the dash after that process, then it passes. IIRC this is the dealer "test" you would be paying for. If you had a failure or a warranty replacement condition, you would already be seeing a message on the drivers display. The computers in the car check the battery condition in real time every time you drive. If a threshold is exceeded, you would see a error message.
 
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I second this. Ideally garaged with stable temps and always plugged in to maintain cell balance. If one cell is out of balance it causes undue wear and affects the whole system.

Also, check and keep up to date on software updates.
I 3rd this. Been doing this on our 2012, 2015 and now the 2018 since new. No problems with the ICE or the battery packs, we put about 40-50k miles on both the 2012 and 2015 mostly on batteries. I did not notice a reduction in electric miles with the 2012 or 2015 over the four years we drove each of them. 2018 going strong, I usually get over 60 miles/charge.
 

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Recently I lost some of my confidence in my Volt when it died on the side of the road. It turned out not to be the traction battery, thank goodness, and I'm back on...

My story: 2013 with 80k miles and 6 months left on the warranty. Get dreaded propulsion reduced message, limp home, car won't restart. Get towed to dealer on GM's dime thru OnStar. Dealer says 2 cells died and shut down the entire traction battery. It was replaced under warranty. Takes 5 days to get car back with new heart. 133 MPG lifetime; 40 MPG on gas; now guesstometer says 46 miles instead of 38 miles, so the replacement traction battery must have newer cells. Car is performing flawlessly once again. Happy camper. Looking forward to another 100k miles, hopefully. WHEW!
 

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<snip> I'm wondering if I should ask the dealer to test my HV battery, even if I have to pay for that test? <snip>
My posts #15 AND #17 offer you a cost effective way to check your battery without paying a large dealer fee.

An aside: I had dinner as a teenager at the Omni Grove Park Inn in Ashville back in the 1950's. My uncle drove us down from Burnsville to show my family and me the magnificent architecture. I can't remember the meal but I do remember the size of the building as we drove up to it. I have a vague recollection of a large stuffed bear on its hind legs in the lobby. I wonder how valid that memory is.
 

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Not in my case, my car 2013 with 120k started to act weird one day with 6 miles left in the batt, would go from 6 miles to zero miles and switch to ICE and when I hit the breaks would go to 6 miles again, the volt did this few times different days until one day on the highway the batt depleted when it showed 6 miles and got reduced propulsion on display, car lost 75% of power but I made it home, next day the car the car would not start at all, only it showed the initializing loop. I had to erase the code to drive it in mountain mode until it dies. MY wife 2014 I notice one time it did the same at 3 miles left, but but she only drives 20 miles a day so she always come home with at least 15 miles left, I have to do a test one day. Sad to say but I don't think my next car will be an electric one
 

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So don’t park in 90+ temps with zero charge and not plugged in.
When a Volt shows zero range in all electric mode it doesn't mean there's no charge in the battery. The Volt reserves a large portion of the battery to be used in conjunction with the auxiliary motor. In fact I believe GM may have been overly conservative in that. But if it's not plugged in when overly hot or cold then degradation could take place in some situations as battery conditioning won't take place. If you can't plug the car in at work or some other setting in extreme weather go out at mid day and start it and let it run for awhile. The AC or heater will come on automatically if the battery temp is outside of spec. After 15 minutes or so turn it off. The fob has a lot of range if parked nearby for autostart.
 

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Cold will not degrade the battery. But if frozen, the battery will need to be warmed by the ICE running to thaw it out before it will be used by the car. On the other hand, heat will degrade or prematurely kill a battery, any battery.
 

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When a Volt shows zero range in all electric mode it doesn't mean there's no charge in the battery. The Volt reserves a large portion of the battery to be used in conjunction with the auxiliary motor. In fact I believe GM may have been overly conservative in that. But if it's not plugged in when overly hot or cold then degradation could take place in some situations as battery conditioning won't take place. If you can't plug the car in at work or some other setting in extreme weather go out at mid day and start it and let it run for awhile. The AC or heater will come on automatically if the battery temp is outside of spec. After 15 minutes or so turn it off. The fob has a lot of range if parked nearby for autostart.
I have actually thought about doing this during the day while I'm at work, since I can't plug in. I have a gen 2 now, but I still worry about it sitting out there in 95 degree heat while unplugged.
 

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I believe that an owner of a Volt can view the health of his battery by using an OBDII scanner and the MyGreenVolt app with the 99 cent add-on. The voltage of each individual cell is shown. If one (or more cells) is weak, the inability to hold a charge is graphically shown and enumerated.

OBDIIs can be inexpensive. This one works for me with the MyGreenVolt app:
https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Elm327...MVI8/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B01FU5MVI8&psc=1
Hello
Did you connect it with the WiFi “V-Link” wlan address? Or did you get Bluetooth to work? To this Vgate model.
I got the V Link up on WiFi but could not get Greenvolt app to connect.
nor could I see on Bluetooth to pair.
The Vgate directions recommend another app “auto doc” but I doubt it reads the individual cell batt voltages.
There is a greenvolt page on Facebook that may help.
Thanks for any insight
 

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In my experience, I found that gluing a little raised knob on top of the [press to turn on] "ON" button area helped me to insure that I really turn the VGate on. The red power light is hard to see from the driver's position. I can reach down and feel for the knob and press it without needing to look.

I assume that initially you need to have your phone search for BT signals and select the VGate for pairing. Because I have paired my phone with multiple BT devices, when I open the app, I am asked which signal to pair to. I select "V-Link". I find that I sometimes need to restart the MyGreenVolt app after selecting "V-Link", frequently two or three times before the app "sees" the V-Gate signal. My thought is that the V-Gate takes time to initialize and put out the bluetooth signal. When the two are paired I will see a green led illuminate on the VGate.

Just double checking: did you get the VGate with the orange band? That is the one that I have.

The car has to be "ON" (but you knew that 8^)

Also, you have to purchase the "Battery" add-on from MyGreenVolt (99 cents is what I paid).

Second also, your phone needs to be in range of a cell tower for the app to check that you have paid before it will activate the "Battery" option...each time you run the app.

Third (and last) also, I have an Android phone. I'm not familiar with how the iPhone/MyGreenVolt works.
 

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In my experience, I found that gluing a little raised knob on top of the [press to turn on] "ON" button area helped me to insure that I really turn the VGate on. The red power light is hard to see from the driver's position. I can reach down and feel for the knob and press it without needing to look.

I assume that initially you need to have your phone search for BT signals and select the VGate for pairing. Because I have paired my phone with multiple BT devices, when I open the app, I am asked which signal to pair to. I select "V-Link". I find that I sometimes need to restart the MyGreenVolt app after selecting "V-Link", frequently two or three times before the app "sees" the V-Gate signal. My thought is that the V-Gate takes time to initialize and put out the bluetooth signal. When the two are paired I will see a green led illuminate on the VGate.

Just double checking: did you get the VGate with the orange band? That is the one that I have.

The car has to be "ON" (but you knew that 8^)

Also, you have to purchase the "Battery" add-on from MyGreenVolt (99 cents is what I paid).

Second also, your phone needs to be in range of a cell tower for the app to check that you have paid before it will activate the "Battery" option...each time you run the app.

Third (and last) also, I have an Android phone. I'm not familiar with how the iPhone/MyGreenVolt works.
Hello jbakerjonathan
Thanks for the response. just saw this, did not have it set for 'follow".

I had bought the VGate car 2 with the yellow strip. Could not get it to work on Iphone7 and read someone else in reviews on "mygreenvolt" that had same problem with I phone 7. Could not get it t work on a older android phone either. I could connect to the VLink, it was just the mygreenvolt app that would not connect. There is not a tab to initiate mygreenvolt to connect in Iphone7, But there is a indicator in android. Read that the Vgate Car2 only works with Wifi not bluetooth, which makes no sense as why would it have the blue LED. In any case I am sending it back as I got the OBDlink MX + ( $$100$$). I am sure I could have got the Vgate to work with another APP but would not have the battery voltages. The..............MX+ works with Mygreenvolt on the older android galaxy but still not with the Iphone7. No wonder I could not see the 96 cells, I will look for that add on. Probally need to download the latest android app also. Did not notice that on the mygreenvolt site.

Most dealers, like mine, will not read the 96 cell voltages without doing some costly direct cell measurements. I did see one pots where one dealer did so for someone without the costly direct cell measurements.

There is some debate about the validity of these readings. Per post19 by WOT (see below for ref) . But there is at least one or more persons that have posted these voltages who had out of spec battery voltage readings AND a bad battery. So i think there is some validity, maybe not as much as direct cell voltage readings (like 1000$ to 1600$), but some validity.

I may not have a real issue but I would like to track it as only have 8000miles left on warranty. have only had two PPR with no going over 25MPH.




Ref Post 19 in below thread
 

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I'm sorry that you couldn't get the device to work with your phone. I just looked at my ICar2 box and saw that the little BT 3.0 box is checked and that there are two other little boxes that are not checked: BT 4.0 and WiFi. My device is BT 3.0 enabled.

It may have been that you were shipped the WiFi version.
 

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I'm sorry that you couldn't get the device to work with your phone. I just looked at my ICar2 box and saw that the little BT 3.0 box is checked and that there are two other little boxes that are not checked: BT 4.0 and WiFi. My device is BT 3.0 enabled.

It may have been that you were shipped the WiFi version.

Hello
Yes that is exactly what happened. My 3.0 BT and 4.0BT is not checked but WiFi is.
It seems from what I read most people get the WiFi version and think that’s all that is available.
No big deal. It’s better to have the. ........OBD2 Mx version. Although I am not sure what more it does at this stage.
I loaded the 99c battery adder on the android phone and the voltages where within the acceptable range. The variance was 0.08 and still less then max of 0.121. Could not get to the graph with all 96 voltages.

Here is a example of where these voltages indicated a dead battery. In this case you could say the point is mute cause the car did not move and had codes. But it is done evidence that these readings are a indication of battery health. Even if GM may not accept this data or even read it when the car is in the shop
In this case it looks like only 1 or 2 of the 96 cells was out of spec and enough to brick the car. I would like to keep track of people recording this data with HV batteries that are older or could be having issues. I thought Culblifeperoia posted a simliar record but maybe not as can not find it now
Post 23 24 of below.
 
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