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Discussion Starter #1
The other day I had a brilliant idea, the kind of idea that, when I was working for a living, I'd get a cash prize for: I had this "old" iPhone 4, which works just fine but is really pretty obsolete for many apps and purposes. It's not activated, but I could still make a 911 call on it in a real emergency. I might have used it as an iPod, to listen to music to in the car, but I never do that. Then I remembered "Find My iPhone" -- the Apple app that lets you locate (on a map, thanks to GPS, etc.) an Apple device -- such as an iPhone 4! So I'm keeping this old phone in the box between the front seats. If somebody steals the car, I can use Find My iPhone on another device to locate the phone (and the car). So if you have an old iPhone or iPad somewhere that you no longer have a use for, consider this.

Then I plugged it in to the USB port in the box and it started charging -- even without the car being turned on! Is that right? Is there supposed to be power to the USB port when the car's not powered up? I thought I remembered reading that the cigarette lighter jack lost power when the car was turned off, and I assumed it'd be the same with the USB port.

Finally, and on a completely different subject: one of my tires is driving me nuts. I keep filling all four tires to 42 psi, and my right rear tire keeps dropping to 40 psi by the next morning. And stays there, at 40 psi! I've done this two or three times now. It's like there's a tiny slow leak that just won't go below 40 psi. Kind of like it's thumbing its nose at me. Really irritating me!
 

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I don't have an iPhone to test, but is this working by Cell tower location, and not GPS? Without a data plan, I'm surprised that a deactivated phone can report it's GPS location. But to make a 911 call, it does check in with the local tower. So the accuracy of the location may only be to the nearest tower (?)

BTW, I have one leaky tire like that too. I don't let it get below 38, but thanks for the reminder to go fill it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The iPhone 4 has GPS and A-GPS. "A-GPS will pinpoint your location (to within a few meters), and it will do so faster than un-assisted GPS. Accurate location requires a fix on 3 satellites, and the signals do not penetrate buildings (even the roof of a car can attenuate the GPS signal). So, if you are not in view of 3 satellites, A-GPS can estimate your location based on 2 satellites plus cell tower data (less accurate). If you aren't in view of at least 2 satellites, the iPhone uses WiFi (if available in the Skyhook database, I think coverage is minimal in AU) or cell-tower triangulation, which is not very accurate. Lower accuracy is represented by a larger circle on your map." Looks like I might need to move the phone to the bizarre little cubby on top of the dashboard so the GPS signal is not impeded by the Volt's roof.
 

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Right, Assisted GPS uses available cell tower and WiFi data to supplement GPS. But something has to communicate with the phone. Without an active data plan, or an active Wifi connection to an access point, the phone can't report back where it is. It could receive GPS data, and know exactly where it is, but have no way to tell anyone. The mentioned Skyhook database is cloud based, requiring internet connectivity.
 

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The other day I had a brilliant idea, the kind of idea that, when I was working for a living, I'd get a cash prize for: I had this "old" iPhone 4, which works just fine but is really pretty obsolete for many apps and purposes. It's not activated, but I could still make a 911 call on it in a real emergency. I might have used it as an iPod, to listen to music to in the car, but I never do that. Then I remembered "Find My iPhone" -- the Apple app that lets you locate (on a map, thanks to GPS, etc.) an Apple device -- such as an iPhone 4! So I'm keeping this old phone in the box between the front seats. If somebody steals the car, I can use Find My iPhone on another device to locate the phone (and the car). So if you have an old iPhone or iPad somewhere that you no longer have a use for, consider this.

Then I plugged it in to the USB port in the box and it started charging -- even without the car being turned on! Is that right? Is there supposed to be power to the USB port when the car's not powered up? I thought I remembered reading that the cigarette lighter jack lost power when the car was turned off, and I assumed it'd be the same with the USB port.

Finally, and on a completely different subject: one of my tires is driving me nuts. I keep filling all four tires to 42 psi, and my right rear tire keeps dropping to 40 psi by the next morning. And stays there, at 40 psi! I've done this two or three times now. It's like there's a tiny slow leak that just won't go below 40 psi. Kind of like it's thumbing its nose at me. Really irritating me!
It may not be the tire but the wheel that is leaking air...GM has had this problem in the past...

Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels

TECHNICAL

Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F

Date: April 27, 2010

Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn)
2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with Cast Aluminum Wheels

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.

Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.

Cause

Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice: This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap and water to locate the specific leak location.
IMPORTANT - If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim), the wheel should be replaced.
IMPORTANT - If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F
Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the wheel.
Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting.
Remove the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI.
Scuff the INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use 88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area.
Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice: Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging the repair area may result in an air leak.
Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel.
Reinstall the Tire Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI.
Mount the tire on the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting.
Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and inspect for leaks.
Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification.
Balance the tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle.
Install the tire and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yet it DOES, in fact, report via the Find My iPhone app where it is......
 

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You need a phone data plan or continuous access to wifi for the Find My Phone app to work correctly. But instead of find my phone, you could also use find my friends, just make up a new Apple ID for your volt/friend.

The cheapest and easiest solution for the tire problem is to drop all your tires to 40 pounds. The alternative is to take the tire off, spray it with a soapy cleanser, and look for bubbles. My last two leaks ended up being cracked rims (I ride on 18s and drive like Jeff Gordon).
 

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Don't all Volts come with a leaky tire? I have one that does the same thing. That's one of the features, isn't it???:confused::p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Edk-austin is right, this does not work without a cell connection. Without that, and without a wifi connection, Find My iPhone doesn't work. If it happens that the car (the iPhone inside the Volt) is within reach of a wifi signal "known" to the iPhone, it does work. I haven't tested to see what would happen if I parked the Volt near some "unknown" wifi signal (that is, there's a wifi signal, but the iPhone is not logged on to that router). I should try that.... But basically it looks like I'm going to have to give back my giant cash award I was (mistakenly) given for this brilliant idea. Wahhh!
(In theory, I could find some incredibly cheap cheap cell phone plan (Straight Talk? Etc.) for the iPhone and keep it in the Volt just for this purpose... I think something might be available for about $10 a month. But at that point I might as well just use OnStar.)
 

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Edk-austin is right, this does not work without a cell connection. Without that, and without a wifi connection, Find My iPhone doesn't work. If it happens that the car (the iPhone inside the Volt) is within reach of a wifi signal "known" to the iPhone, it does work. I haven't tested to see what would happen if I parked the Volt near some "unknown" wifi signal (that is, there's a wifi signal, but the iPhone is not logged on to that router). I should try that.... But basically it looks like I'm going to have to give back my giant cash award I was (mistakenly) given for this brilliant idea. Wahhh!
(In theory, I could find some incredibly cheap cheap cell phone plan (Straight Talk? Etc.) for the iPhone and keep it in the Volt just for this purpose... I think something might be available for about $10 a month. But at that point I might as well just use OnStar.)
My AT&T family share plan costs about $16 per month to keep an iPhone activated. Of course, I have 5 phone on the plan, so it gets cheaper as you add them. One other issue, as soon as someone steals your car, they'll rifle through all the contents, and that phone will be on craigslist faster that you can say Blort. Another great use for your iPhone, load it up with songs and use it as a glorified iPod. If you pay for Spotify premium, you can also download all of your favorite songs while on wifi and listen in the car sans network. Alas, that's another subscription...
 
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