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I have a 2014 Volt with around 75,000 miles. Around a month or two back, it would not start ... completely dead. Took to dealership, they said battery is good, everything checked out. They changed something called battery receptacles but this made no different. I continue to have the same problem frequently. The only time this does not happen is if the Volt is plugged in ... it start with no issues. Otherwise, it is 50 - 50. If the weather is on the cold side, it is more likely not to start. Taking it back to the dealership again tomorrow. If they cannot fix it, will seriously consider selling it off. I have bought a portable battery jumping kit and carry it around expecting to use it frequently. When the battery dies, the hatchback door cannot be opened ... there is no key bypass ... serious design flaw. Will try to post updates as this develops further.
 

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Sounds like something is being left on and draining the 12v battery.
 

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I have bought a portable battery jumping kit and carry it around expecting to use it frequently. When the battery dies, the hatchback door cannot be opened ... there is no key bypass ... serious design flaw.
Just a quick heads up - to jump it, you don't need to go to the trunk. There is a place under the hood to jump the 12v. We keep our battery pack under the driver's seat so we don't have to depend on the trunk opening. Hope that helps!

Also, would love to hear if you figure something out. My 2013 does the same thing if I don't plug it in for a few days. Dealer says 12v battery is fine...

My wife just had a baby and we had to stay a few extra days at the hospital, leaving the Volt in the parking garage, when a relative went to drive it to pick something up for us, the 12v was dead and car would not start. Luckily we had the battery pack jumper kit (NOCO) and it started right up, though the engine revved extremely high for a long while. Still had a good 15-20 EV miles left on the car when parked, so not sure why the ICE fired up.
 

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Three-year-old batteries can get iffy and still test 'good'.

Are both key fobs far away from the vehicle when it's parked? Is the fob battery good? Is there a bluetooth device left in the car? Did the battery actually measure low voltage, or, does it just act like a dead battery?

There may be some other explanation.

My ELR wouldn't respond to either fob one morning. Car was plugged in and it was warm out. Took both fobs away from the car a ways (100'), came back, and it started working again. Happened once in 15 months of ownership.

There are so many computers and lines of code in cars these days that computer/code glitch happens more often than physical glitches.
 

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I would say replace the battery. That is cheap insurance. Also, I agree about opening the hatch but also agree you should jump it by raising the hood not the hatch.
 

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Replace the 12 volt battery. It is bad, no matter what the "tester" says. It has a high resistance internal short.
 

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It seems silly to trade in a car without at least trying to swap out the 12v battery with a new one. I hope that solves the problem. The symptoms seem right, as it gets colter it doesn't work as well. That's a sign of a dying battery. Of this were an ice vehicle, you would hear the starter struggle and come to the conclusion that either thr battery was going bad or the alternator isn't charging the battery. Have you tried charging the battery with a car charger (probably should do this while disconnected from the rest of the car electronics).
 

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I posted this question someplace else, but I may as well ask it here. I am looking at getting one of these cars (used gen 1) and is a dead 12v battery common if they are not driven for a few days? As it is, I do not drive very far. I'm also a born again college student in my 40's and will be bicycling to/from school (which accounts for the vast majority of my driving as it is). So in reality, there is a possibility that the car may only be used three days a week (Fri, Sat, and Sun when I usually work) and on the odd bad weather day. Can you just leave these plugged in all the time as a bypass to this or is leaving them plugged in 24/7 also bad I'm assuming?
 

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I am looking at getting one of these cars (used gen 1) and is a dead 12v battery common if they are not driven for a few days?
No, not common at all. Keeping the car plugged in while parked is normal, not a problem. Can actually be beneficial on hot days as the car can cool the battery. Plus, you can remote start the car and have it heatup or cool down via the plug juice so when you get in you have a full charge.
 

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No, not common at all. Keeping the car plugged in while parked is normal, not a problem. Can actually be beneficial on hot days as the car can cool the battery. Plus, you can remote start the car and have it heatup or cool down via the plug juice so when you get in you have a full charge.
Ah OK, thanks.
 

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If I remember correctly, the 2013 model and newer added a battery tender circuit, so that as long as the car is plugged in it will check the 12 volt battery from time to time, even if the main battery has completed charging, and trickle charge it.
 

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I posted this question someplace else, but I may as well ask it here. I am looking at getting one of these cars (used gen 1) and is a dead 12v battery common if they are not driven for a few days? As it is, I do not drive very far. I'm also a born again college student in my 40's and will be bicycling to/from school (which accounts for the vast majority of my driving as it is). So in reality, there is a possibility that the car may only be used three days a week (Fri, Sat, and Sun when I usually work) and on the odd bad weather day. Can you just leave these plugged in all the time as a bypass to this or is leaving them plugged in 24/7 also bad I'm assuming?
Leaving it plugged in will do no harm either. But you're probably looking at a new 12V one of these days soon.
 

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Oh yeah, they have to be replaced at some point. I'm just trying gauge the "normal" problems associated with these cars before I seriously try to buy one. The only car that I have ever had buyer's remorse on is my wife's Civic Hybrid because I somehow missed the whole battery pack issue with them.
 

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+1 for just getting a new 12V battery.

They can go funny but still look OK on a cursory test. (They can do the opposite too - a bad test outcome but can be brought back to life with a good desulphation charge.)

There's not such thing as a 'decisive' electrical test on a lead acid battery.
 

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I have a 2014 Volt with around 75,000 miles. Around a month or two back, it would not start ... completely dead. Took to dealership, they said battery is good, everything checked out. They changed something called battery receptacles but this made no different. I continue to have the same problem frequently. The only time this does not happen is if the Volt is plugged in ... it start with no issues. Otherwise, it is 50 - 50. If the weather is on the cold side, it is more likely not to start. Taking it back to the dealership again tomorrow. If they cannot fix it, will seriously consider selling it off. I have bought a portable battery jumping kit and carry it around expecting to use it frequently. When the battery dies, the hatchback door cannot be opened ... there is no key bypass ... serious design flaw. Will try to post updates as this develops further.
Not really a 'serious design flaw', many vehicles have switch activated hatch/rear cargo door that cannot be opened with a dead 12v battery. As stated above, the manual shows how to jump start the Volt when you cannot access the rear hatch :)

I agree with above, sounds like a draw somewhere?

Let us know what the dealer finds.
 

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Not really a 'serious design flaw', many vehicles have switch activated hatch/rear cargo door that cannot be opened with a dead 12v battery. As stated above, the manual shows how to jump start the Volt when you cannot access the rear hatch :)

I agree with above, sounds like a draw somewhere?

Let us know what the dealer finds.
This was good timing - guess what died in my Fiat tonight as I attempted to start it at 1030pm after I got off work? The battery. Guess what wouldn't open so that I could get my jumper cables out? The rear hatch. Oh the irony ;) I said it in another thread, maybe it's a sign to go look at the used Volt I found.....
 

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When the battery dies, the hatchback door cannot be opened ... there is no key bypass ... serious design flaw.
If your 12V battery is dead, the rear hatch can be opened manually from inside the car with a flat blade screw diver.

  1. Fold your seats rear down and access the small plastic plug on the rear hatch (on the inside)
  2. Pop it off and insert a blade screwdriver into the hole and turn COUNTER-clockwise to release the hatch.
See http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?113913-Issues-from-loose-12V-Battery-connections-FAQ&p=1985650#post1985650

OR, you can use the jumper terminals under the front hood as intended.

This is covered in the owner's manual as stated above. We have a PDF on jump starting the car here (with pictures) http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?105561-Care-Maintenance-amp-Service-FAQ-s
 

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Guess what wouldn't open so that I could get my jumper cables out?
ha! reminder to self. Go move jumper cables in wife's car from back hatch to under front seat!
 

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ha! reminder to self. Go move jumper cables in wife's car from back hatch to under front seat!
Or, just keep a screwdriver under the seat. Much smaller. Or, there are slim cables that come in a small bag that can be kept in in the rear cargo area. Just rear behind the rear seat to grab it. The Volt doesn't need big beefy cables.
 

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I've had similar situations with (2) of my 3 Volts that we've owned. Each incident after having traveled to visit family. The first time with our '12 and minutes after arrival, showing the Volt for the first time to family members. That was again minutes after having traveled 250 miles. See comment below.

The second time was last winter (very cold) with the '15 but placed inside a steel building and plugged in. Came out the next day and it was dead. Cannot recall the status of the main battery.

Did I replace the battery on either of them? Heck no. But I did install one of those 12V testers in the socket of the top cubby. The 12V battery, even on the '15 is not always being charged.

There has been on more than one occasion where I've seen on my commute (50 miles) where the device wouldn't indicate that the 12V battery as charging at all. It's not until the days are longer when I really notice it being charged consistently and I believe it's due to having to use the headlights. This is strictly my observations.

So I'm not too sure of this trickle charging that I've heard made referenced to on more than one occasion??
 
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