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I am providing this post, instructions, and photos to help guide those interested in completing their own HID conversions on their Volt. I respectfully ask that this thread NOT be used to debate the merits of HID conversion in the Volt or any car for that matter. There are already threads going for that discussion. There are no implied “right way” or “wrong way” instructions here, just how I chose for the most part. Do at your own risk but feel free to ask questions if needed and I will do my best to reply in a timely manner. I am trying to provide adequate photos (thumbnails for most others at bottom of post) for reference and think I have all the bases covered. The pics may not be in the order of instructions and some of the photos have added notes.
I am providing the link to the kit I bought. I chose this kit due to the small ballasts, good quality, decent price, and previous experience with the product and the company’s customer service. I included a photo (bottom of post) of the HID capsule that comes in this kit alongside a stock Volt bulb for reference. It’s worth noting that the position of the light element in each is almost at the exact same position and orientation relative to the base. This is key to HID capsules performing well in the stock projectors. Older generation HID capsules did not line up nearly as well causing poor light patterns. Additionally some of the info I provide (IE wiring harness) may be specific to this product only. Other vendors harnesses may differ slightly. Kit and harness photo at bottom of this post.
CARHIDKITS
You will need to choose the output color of your bulbs. I strongly recommend not going above 6000k. 4300k is standard but to my eyes the 6000k are whiter and more defined. Below 4300k is very yellow. On this site they have an option for bulb type (high beam, low beam, fog lights) go with low beam.
Before you order consider whether you choose to use a wiring harness or not. It is additional product which must be ordered ($25-$35). The option to order it is provided on the website where you select bulb color. Some of the Pros and Cons are as follows…
Pro: No high electrical load on stock light power connectors when igniters fire up. Less likely to have flicker issues due to auto light circuitry. Extra dedicated fuse for HIDs. HID power isolated from Volt systems.
Con: More wiring work. May want to remove front shroud cover to route/hide wires (easy and pics included).
First thing you will need to do is provide access for some wires to enter/exit the light housing. My preferred method has been to cut a notch about the width of a pencil into the lower outboard side of the access port. To gain access to the light housing/bulb one needs to twist the approx 4” round cover counterclockwise (when looking from the engine bay forward) about a half inch and it will slide back out. Notice when in place a small V mark indicates to center. Some have cut right into the round cover for wire access but this seemed like more work to me and not as easy to hide if need be (lease car).Cut the notch deep enough so that the wires can pass while allowing the cover to go back in place. If the notch is cut just right, this enclosure will remain pretty well sealed. This area looks not to be susceptible to splashing so it should be safe enough. If you do end up with more gap than needed plug it with some foam or electrical tape. I have included a photo (bottom of post) showing my notch and the tool I used to make them. With my tool, I cut the bottom edge of my notch, then the top edge, then used a needle nose to tear out the chunk between like a loose tooth.
When preparing the parts from the kit you may find all of the wires including an adapter harness (not needed) are run through a large rubber grommet. In my case I gently cut all of the wiring out of this rubber and disposed of it. Be advised, though you may not have a choice in doing this it could prevent you from returning the whole kit for refund if you changed your mind…
Now time to twist out the stock bulb and twist in the HID capsule. Note the position of the tabs on the stock bulb when you pull it out as this will help align the new capsule without fussing it around. Both sides have a nice flat place to mount the min ballast with the double side tape included. The tape works good as long as you clean the mounting surface well ahead of time. You will find that with a little finesse the igniter itself will stuff up into the upper region inside the light housing slightly to one side. If you are NOT using the wire harness simply plug the “plug & play” connectors in, put the cover back on and you done.
NOTE! Sometimes the “plug & play” connectors are reversed polarity. Always test the lights before sealing it all back up. If you use the wire harness this guessing game can be avoided.
If you ARE using the wire harness you now need to route some wires for power and ground. I have provided photos with all the reference you should need. You’ll note on the harness picture the connector circled may not have the plug rather just bare wires. If that is the case just use one of the spare adapter plugs that came with the kit (extra wire left over from large grommet) and splice it on. Begin at the passenger side. You will want to open the air cleaner cover and move it and a coolant hose out of the way (see photo). The passenger side of the wire harness has a short wire to be run to ground. Though the shortest distance to ground is generally best, I chose to add a long good sized gauge wire back along the length of the whole harness and tied it in to the main ground since there was no good place close to ground on this side anyway. While not completely necessary, removing the front shroud cover (see pic) will give you a great place to route and hide the harness as it travels to the driver’s side. Once you reach the driver’s side, connect everything else up. The original wire connector to the driver’s side light powers the whole harness. When you turn on your lights their power plug simply triggers the relay and it sends power directly to the lights isolating the car’s stock headlight wiring circuitry. You will need to find small hex nuts that fit both the 12V feed and ground nub shown in the photo.
I think that’s about it.
You’ll find excellent light output without blinding oncoming traffic. One thing you will lose is the ability to quickly flash high beams if your lights are not already on. This is due to the fact that HIDs require a few seconds to warm up. If your lights are off, and you flash highs, the recipient may not see much.
If any of you have quicker or more effective approaches to any of this or prefer other kits, please provide the information and I will add to the first post if possible and/or appropriate!
Thanks, good luck and enjoy.
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I am providing the link to the kit I bought. I chose this kit due to the small ballasts, good quality, decent price, and previous experience with the product and the company’s customer service. I included a photo (bottom of post) of the HID capsule that comes in this kit alongside a stock Volt bulb for reference. It’s worth noting that the position of the light element in each is almost at the exact same position and orientation relative to the base. This is key to HID capsules performing well in the stock projectors. Older generation HID capsules did not line up nearly as well causing poor light patterns. Additionally some of the info I provide (IE wiring harness) may be specific to this product only. Other vendors harnesses may differ slightly. Kit and harness photo at bottom of this post.
CARHIDKITS
You will need to choose the output color of your bulbs. I strongly recommend not going above 6000k. 4300k is standard but to my eyes the 6000k are whiter and more defined. Below 4300k is very yellow. On this site they have an option for bulb type (high beam, low beam, fog lights) go with low beam.
Before you order consider whether you choose to use a wiring harness or not. It is additional product which must be ordered ($25-$35). The option to order it is provided on the website where you select bulb color. Some of the Pros and Cons are as follows…
Pro: No high electrical load on stock light power connectors when igniters fire up. Less likely to have flicker issues due to auto light circuitry. Extra dedicated fuse for HIDs. HID power isolated from Volt systems.
Con: More wiring work. May want to remove front shroud cover to route/hide wires (easy and pics included).
First thing you will need to do is provide access for some wires to enter/exit the light housing. My preferred method has been to cut a notch about the width of a pencil into the lower outboard side of the access port. To gain access to the light housing/bulb one needs to twist the approx 4” round cover counterclockwise (when looking from the engine bay forward) about a half inch and it will slide back out. Notice when in place a small V mark indicates to center. Some have cut right into the round cover for wire access but this seemed like more work to me and not as easy to hide if need be (lease car).Cut the notch deep enough so that the wires can pass while allowing the cover to go back in place. If the notch is cut just right, this enclosure will remain pretty well sealed. This area looks not to be susceptible to splashing so it should be safe enough. If you do end up with more gap than needed plug it with some foam or electrical tape. I have included a photo (bottom of post) showing my notch and the tool I used to make them. With my tool, I cut the bottom edge of my notch, then the top edge, then used a needle nose to tear out the chunk between like a loose tooth.
When preparing the parts from the kit you may find all of the wires including an adapter harness (not needed) are run through a large rubber grommet. In my case I gently cut all of the wiring out of this rubber and disposed of it. Be advised, though you may not have a choice in doing this it could prevent you from returning the whole kit for refund if you changed your mind…
Now time to twist out the stock bulb and twist in the HID capsule. Note the position of the tabs on the stock bulb when you pull it out as this will help align the new capsule without fussing it around. Both sides have a nice flat place to mount the min ballast with the double side tape included. The tape works good as long as you clean the mounting surface well ahead of time. You will find that with a little finesse the igniter itself will stuff up into the upper region inside the light housing slightly to one side. If you are NOT using the wire harness simply plug the “plug & play” connectors in, put the cover back on and you done.
NOTE! Sometimes the “plug & play” connectors are reversed polarity. Always test the lights before sealing it all back up. If you use the wire harness this guessing game can be avoided.
If you ARE using the wire harness you now need to route some wires for power and ground. I have provided photos with all the reference you should need. You’ll note on the harness picture the connector circled may not have the plug rather just bare wires. If that is the case just use one of the spare adapter plugs that came with the kit (extra wire left over from large grommet) and splice it on. Begin at the passenger side. You will want to open the air cleaner cover and move it and a coolant hose out of the way (see photo). The passenger side of the wire harness has a short wire to be run to ground. Though the shortest distance to ground is generally best, I chose to add a long good sized gauge wire back along the length of the whole harness and tied it in to the main ground since there was no good place close to ground on this side anyway. While not completely necessary, removing the front shroud cover (see pic) will give you a great place to route and hide the harness as it travels to the driver’s side. Once you reach the driver’s side, connect everything else up. The original wire connector to the driver’s side light powers the whole harness. When you turn on your lights their power plug simply triggers the relay and it sends power directly to the lights isolating the car’s stock headlight wiring circuitry. You will need to find small hex nuts that fit both the 12V feed and ground nub shown in the photo.
I think that’s about it.
You’ll find excellent light output without blinding oncoming traffic. One thing you will lose is the ability to quickly flash high beams if your lights are not already on. This is due to the fact that HIDs require a few seconds to warm up. If your lights are off, and you flash highs, the recipient may not see much.
If any of you have quicker or more effective approaches to any of this or prefer other kits, please provide the information and I will add to the first post if possible and/or appropriate!
Thanks, good luck and enjoy.
.
