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Great information, thanks!
 

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How many amps at 240V ?

Wow, very nicely done! So does this modification support 16A, 240V or is it the same as the LCS-20, 15A, 240V Clipper Creek unit then?
 

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I did this modification today. I have a 2013 volt. The PC board inside the factory supplied EVSE is a clipper creek, date code is june 2011.

I measured the following:
241 volts, 12.4 amps = 2.98 kw
120 volts, 13.1 amps = 1.57 kw
 

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Very nice. Super simple.
Surprised all the current goes through the PCB directly like that. Though I'm no electronics expert.;)

Already bought a 240, or might have considered this mod.
 

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Job well done. Speaks well of the Clipper Creek engineering. This is just the kind of project I would tackle. I have done numerous small electronic restorations (guitar amps, etc.) and would easily be able to follow this video to complete the conversion.

Thanks for sharing.
 

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Brilliant! Thanks so much for this!

Exactly what I was looking for before I purchased my Turbocord. You can easily carry several ends for different plug types you may encounter.

I wonder why EVSE Upgrade never offered an 240V upgrade with the Volt EVSE like they do with the Leaf.
 

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So does this modification support 16A, 240V or is it the same as the LCS-20, 15A, 240V Clipper Creek unit then?
The EVSE will still advertise only 12 amps, so this would be equivalent to an LCS-15
 

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I did this modification today. I have a 2013 volt. The PC board inside the factory supplied EVSE is a clipper creek, date code is june 2011.

I measured the following:
241 volts, 12.4 amps = 2.98 kw
120 volts, 13.1 amps = 1.57 kw
so charging at 240V with this mod will take about 5 hours rather than 4 hours at 240V, 15A ???
 

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From another thread......
I suspect the EVSE supplied with all volts is limited to 12 amps.

The J1772 pilot signal in the EVSE is set to 20% duty cycle which tells the car to expect 12 amps. The car can accept a little more, but the EVSE tells the car it is only going to get 12 amps maximum so that is what it charges at. The J1772 standard allows for 6, 12, 18, 24, 30 and up amps.

With a modified EVSE, the car charges at twice the rate of the stock L1 EVSE.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, here's what it looks like when I plug it into my Tesla. At 247VAC with 12A that brings it to 2964W. It's a little shy of the Volt's maximum 3.3kW. I'm cool with that (only on the Volt ;) )

IMG_20141203_221002.jpg
 

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When I first saw this video, I thought it was really cool that you could do that. I even bought the parts to do it. Today I realized that this modification probably negates one of the safety features of the J1772 plug of no high voltage present at the plug when it is not plugged into the car. I suspect that all level 2 chargers have a double pole relay for L1 and L2. As far as I can tell (haven't had a chance to study the printed circuit board) L2 is connected directly to a wire to the plug, so voltage is present at one of the plug pins at all times when the modified EVSE is connected to a 240v electrical supply. In other words it is no longer suitable for a wet environment. Drop it in a puddle of water that you are standing in and nasty things could happen. I doubt if there is any arcing when the plug is connected to the car as the circuit would not be complete. If I'm wrong about this, I'm sure someone will let me know.

By the way, there is no need to buy a 4 prong 50 amp plug. All you need is a L14-20R wall outlet. One could also use 14-4 cable although it is hard to find; not available at HD or Lowes that I went to.

I hope Chris will comment about this.
 

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Today I realized that this modification probably negates one of the safety features of the J1772 plug of no high voltage present at the plug when it is not plugged into the car.
ALL pins of the car plug are switched, including the neutral. I also was concerned, until I got the charger apart and verified the neutral is switched by the relay. so with this mod there is NO SAFETY ISSUE as you describe.

My total cost was 29 dollars, 7 of which was for a tork-x safety bit set. I hard wired it its as it would be 40+ more dollars for the socket/plug that I will never use. Simple and now I'm in the L2 camp. One thing I did with the 2012 charger was mounted it on stand-offs for heat dissipation ( almost 3 years ago ), did the same with the 2013 unit.

20141205_172847.jpg 20141205_172838.jpg
 

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ALL pins of the car plug are switched, including the neutral. I also was concerned, until I got the charger apart and verified the neutral is switched by the relay. so with this mod there is NO SAFETY ISSUE as you describe.
Well that's a relief, thanks. I looked in the EVSE about 2 years ago and saw the L1 and L2 labels, so I thought it might be possible for the unit to we wired for 240, but couldn't figure out how to do it. Since the car is sold overseas with different electrical systems than the US, build a EVSE that will work on several systems. Will be a few days before I get to this project.
 

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Since the car is sold overseas with different electrical systems than the US, build a EVSE that will work on several systems.
For the record, 220 volts overseas and 240 volts in North America are very different. In the EU, one wire carries all 220 volts. In NA, two wires carry 120 each, but each are out of phase. That matters a lot inside the unit.
 

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Does this mod work with all MY Volt supplied EVSE's? I have a 2014 and would like to attempt it. My thought is to put a 14-50 plug on the EVSE and then make a 120V adapter to a 14-50 receptacle. Most 240V outlets in the wild are 14-50. As the current will be limited to 12A, I can use 14 guage wire rather than the much heavier wire shown in the video. Any comments? Its a pity that the EVSE seems to need the common (white) wire. Most likely it has a 120V relay that wont work well with 240V. For my Open EVSE, there is an internal 120/240V to 12V power supply that is used to power the relays, so the common is not used. This allows the plug to be used on both 14-50 and 14-30 receptacles.
 
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