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I was reading on another site that the USB ports in the gen 2 volt only put out about 0.5A and I tend to agree. When I am talking on the phone with it plugged in I gain about 1 or 2% charge in 30 mins. When I am using google maps it actually loses power. Why would Chevrolet bother putting in such weak output USB ports in 2016? But for only $10 I can buy a cigarette lighter adapter on amazon that can output USB 2.1A and I guess that is what I have to do. Seems like GM could have splurged and put some in that were better if I can buy them for $10. Anyone else bothered by this?
 

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Don't forget one of the primary purposes of the USB ports are to tie into the mylink for USB music files and CarPlay and android auto connections etc so maybe higher powered connections would not work for that, but I don't know for sure. I got a dual 2.4 amp cigarette lighter power port adapter to actually charge things. I reserve the two native USB ports for connection to the car's mylink system.


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I agree with this. I understand the point of the USB ports is primarily for data transfer (USB sticks, Carplay/AA, etc...), but it would've been nice if they could charge devices also at a reasonable rate. I keep a 12V adapter with dual USB ports in my car so I can effectively charge my phone if I need to.

I don't see why GM couldn't make those ports with higher power output. The Qi wireless slot is not too bad with regards to charging speed but your phone needs to support it and in just about all cases, you won't be able to close the console fully while using it.
 

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Don't forget one of the primary purposes of the USB ports are to tie into the mylink for USB music files and CarPlay and android auto connections etc so maybe higher powered connections would not work for that, but I don't know for sure.
The car is probably using a chipset which implements the USB 2.0 standard of 0.5A. IMHO they should be using a USB 3.0 chipset which has been widely available for a few years now, and which can supply 0.9A. It's backwards compatible with USB 2.0, so there's no reason not to use it, especially when the car is designed for use with phones that will be plugged in and turned on (using CarPlay or Android Auto) over an extended period of time.
 

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My Pixel XL charges pretty fast when it's plugged into either of the USB ports on mine, and the XL has a huge battery. I think they're 2.1A ports. USB 2.0 2.1A ports don't output that unless the device negotiates that it can handle it though, so maybe some phones are incompatible.
 

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You could get yourself an USB tester similar to the type above in order to verify just how much charging current the Volt's USB ports can provide.



Otherwise, just grab yourself one of the many higher-capacity 4.8A 12V car chargers avail to use!;)
 

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Provides both USB data and USB device power through a single cable

High Speed USB 2.0 data transfer rate up to 480Mbps


1 ft USB Y Cable for External Hard Drive - Dual USB A to Micro B
I get what the OP is saying yet this is a pretty common thing in the automotive world, not just the Volt/Chevy/GM...While we could whine, I think I can expand upon what you found:

Edit, my link was for a "splitter"...I still recommend looking for this on amazon for their return policy if it doesn't work...

Cheaper with free shipping if you have prime; if it doesn't work as expected, do a defective return and you get all your money back plus free return shipping...Also the B end is female so you can use your existing cord and it's somewhat adaptable for your passengers because now there are be three popular mediums, micro USB, USB-C and lightning...So bottom line, one time spend what $17 total for this and a 2+ amp sig lighter adapter which comes in handy for traveling/rentals and be done with it if faster charging while using CP/AA is important to them...
 

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In the Gen 1, the socket actually has a micro-USB plug/socket connection behind it, it is not a USB socket straight into an interface chip.

IF that's the same on the Gen 2 then you could rig up a more powerful 5V connection straight to that 'driver-facing' adapter and everything would then be hidden behind the panel.
 

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According to my apps, I get full "AC" charging on Android and iPhone from the data ports. That's at least 1A.
Partially related to this - some devices throttle to 500mA when they sense it's a USB port with data that isn't advertising higher power rates. (it may not actually be data, but a resistor across the data pins instead of having no data pins at all)
If you use a charge-only cable, it will draw full power. (buy a specially made one, or short/remove the data pins)
On my old phone it would be 500mA (reported "USB"/slow) with a standard cable on my 1A accessory outlet - then 1A using the charge only cable (reported "AC"). Only change was the cable in the middle.
 

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According to my apps, I get full "AC" charging on Android and iPhone from the data ports. That's at least 1A.
Here you go. I checked both usb ports and got the same results when connecting an iphone 7+
No need to speculate, just measure it! On android, you can use Ampere to see how much current your phone is pulling. Spartan, however, has pretty much the ground truth already. I'll see what my Z3 Compact pulls when I charge tomorrow. It always seemed "fast" to me as if I was plugged into it's bundled fast charger ([email protected]).
 

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Mine craps out regulalry, if I am listening to music through a usb stick, and charging my iphone on the other port. Dealer says it's being overpowered. Seems hard to believe in this day and age.
What do you mean by it "craps out"? Which one stops working/charging? Have you tried switching ports to see if that changes anything?
 
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