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Bought my 2016 Volt with Bose system and felt that, while not horrible, it wasn't what I was hoping for. The once venerable "Bose" named system consists of little more than several low quality, paper cone speakers placed in fairly strategic locations. The factory system is capable of getting loud, but is riddled with intermodulation distortion and break up, at even moderate volumes. With some research, I ended up putting together what I consider to be a reasonable upgrade for the gen2 w/ Bose. The upgrade consists mostly of speaker replacements (with one additional amp for the sub). I have seen several posts that indicate that some others may be interested in a setup like this, so I figured I'd share. Unfortunately, I didn't take the time to photo document the actual procedure of replacing stuff, but honestly there is plenty of documentation out there about how to access and replace these speakers. I got a lot of useful info myself from this forum. If there is interest, I will be happy to point people in the right direction.

My main criteria for the upgrade was:

1. Under $1000 (actual cost was around $900)
2. The factory entertainment system and amplification will be left alone, since they are fairly integral to the vehicle.
3. The upgrade should be straightforward and should achieve as much of an improvement as possible without requiring addition of, hacking of, or software tuning of, a DSP, or dismantling the Chevy Mylink stack to interface to some intermediate stage of audio.
4. The upgrade should be as stealth as possible using factory speaker locations, with no disadvantage to the cargo area, etc. (i.e. no additional sub box)

One important thing to know about the Volt sound system, as others have pointed out, is that the Chevy Mylink system is connected to an amplifier with a factory programmed DSP, which affects independent speaker EQ and volume characteristics on a curve. This is probably to compensate for specifics of the speakers and cabin acoustics. Since we will be changing these characteristics, the ultimate solution would really require circumventing this. There is an aftermarket device (name escapes me) that allows one to get straight, unamplified outputs from the factory unit without these DSP adjustments. My solution is technically a compromise without something like this. That being said, I believe many people would be extremely happy with the results I was able to achieve without having to go to this extent. It turns out that having the Bose system design does provide a lot of the groundwork needed for a truly great sounding system, but falls short largely in the area of actual speaker quality.

As mentioned, this upgrade consists largely of direct speaker replacements at all factory locations, with the exception of the subwoofer, which consists of both a speaker and amplifier upgrade. The upgrades are summarized below, in order of largest to smallest impact on listening quality.

1. Corner dash tweeters. The factory solution is some kind of small 2.75" AC Delco tweeter that has a big problem with losing definition at or above middle volume. I replaced mine with Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C, cost $70 for pair. Installation was very straightforward as they line up perfectly with the factory holes. The connection required cutting/splicing as no adapter seems to be available. You need to be really careful to get the polarity right as the factory doesn't really give you any clues. I used a 9v battery to figure out which terminal was + and - (if the cone moves OUT, terminals match the battery). After the upgrade, the improvement was substantial and resulted in the most significant impact to my ears. The sound stage and dynamics were dramatically improved, and listening at spirited volumes became a rewarding experience. If you do nothing else, you should look at this, as it will probably be the best $70 you ever spent on your car (unless you really just don't care).

2. Trunk subwoofer (and amp). The factory solution is an 8" speaker in a built-in custom built enclosure, niftily located behind the passenger side trunk panel. There is a notably underpowered factory amplifier powering this speaker. I added a compact Clarion XC2110 class D amplifier. This 300W, class D amp is really small and uses very little power. I mounted it in the styrofoam right below the trunk mat. This amp can take a high level input, so I simply connected that to the leads that fed the factory speaker. I wired the Clarion's remote turn-on to the lighter outlet in the rear seating area.

The factory sub itself probably isn't horrible, but I wasn't sure about the power handling, so I replaced it with a Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW800F 4 ohm, shallow mount speaker for $170. The basket fits perfectly into the factory enclosure after you shave off the little plastic alignment studs. I used self-drilling screws to anchor the new speaker, since the screw holes did not line up. Though not critical, I encourage you to install some sound deadening material around the inside of the enclosure while the speaker is out. I used Noico RED 315 mil self adhesive, which came in a nice pack for $30. Note that the port diameter of the factory enclosure is a really a bit small for higher SPL under 80Hz or so, but I found it was not much of a problem for most material, especially if you are not cruising the strip while playing the brown note, and are just trying to achieve a well rounded sound system. The amp has a bass boost, LPF, and gain control. I set bass boost to zero, LPF to no-effect (the factory already sends an LPF signal so you don't need to filter it further), and the gain at about 85-90%. The gain control is super touchy in this range, so you'll need to play with it to get the balance just right with the rest of the system. Total cost of amp, speaker, sound deadening: $390. It makes a big difference. The sub now has some real power and you'll know it right away.

2. Center channel. The factory solution is an unremarkable 3.5" paper cone mid range speaker. Again, breaks up pretty bad at anything other than driving-home-from-church-volume. Center channel speaker is pretty key as it serves both front seats, so I kind of splurged on this one and got an Infinity Reference REF-3032-cfx. Came as a pair for $90 but I only used one. This speaker sounds amazing, and I highly recommend incorporating it into the upgrade. Due to its key position, the center channel services the entire car, so don't underestimate the value of improving it.

4. Door speakers. The factory mid-bass door speakers are pretty garbage. Really just a simple paper 6" speaker. I am really disappointed that this thing is labeled "Bose" as it is really a pointless connotation. These speakers do a surprisingly mediocre job of recreating mid-bass given that they only have one job. These are not even the kind that have to try to produce full range using a whizzer cone in the middle, a la 2-way/coaxial. It's important to know that these are 2 ohm speakers. I replaced with CDT audio CL-6.2 speakers, which are also 2 ohm. The mid bass is far more detailed and natural, not to mention tighter. You'll want the Scosche SAGMHR-634 brackets (which you will need to dremel off the inside screw holes for the CDT baskets to fit), and Metra 72-5600 connection adapters. The total cost was around $340. These speakers are a really good match for the factory ones in terms of impedance and sensitivity. I can't stress enough that this is where a lot of aftermarket speaker upgrades in the Volt tend to fall down. Without a good match here, the door speakers will be too quiet, and out of balance with the other speakers. If you turn it up to compensate, the tweeters and sub are working really hard, and all hell breaks loose.

So yeah. Around $900 and a DIY friendly, pretty straightforward installation path to true audio bliss. Perhaps this seems a bit much to some, but to others this might be more surmountable that some $2000+ upgrades proposed (amp interface, amps, DSP, and all speakers). I know that in some cases the very topic of paying for/achieving good audio in cars seems to invoke a holy war with people, so I make no representations about whether you should choose this or not. Just throwing another possibility out there, for gen2 owners who are disappointed in their Bose system, are put off about spending twice as much, plus days of ripping stuff apart, reassembling, and programming DSPs.

If anyone is interested in pursuing, and would like more specifics about what I did, I am happy to provide.

Cheers
 
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Thanks for all the detail! How hard to change out the center speaker? Also, any reason you couldn't have used the coaxial CDT CL-6EX.2? I listen to music some but it's not a passion so I don't want to mess with anything I don't have to. I really was hoping to replace the 4 door speakers with something coax to get a little better highs and cleaner lows/mids and just leave the factory garbage in the dash. Is it worth doing just that? All I'd need then is 4 speakers, mounting plates, and wire adapters, I assume.
 

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First timer here. Hi everyone

I purchased a 2017 with Bose system and I feel the same way. Not enough for my liking. Recently I went stereo shopping. One shop quoted me $2600. For a complete system upgrade.

But I know better. I also went into Crutchfields website and inquired about getting my own diy setup. That turned out to be just as expensive. Putting the two scenarios together, I came up with my own version. A little YouTube for good measure and bam. Almost $1500 into parts now.

My plan is to upgrade all speakers in the doors with Alpine type Rs. 6 channel JL amp and a nice JL 12 sub. Oh yes I almost forgot the LC7i loc converter.

I found a YouTube channel called LLJ customs who specialize in car audio harness builds. So I placed an order. $200 for a loop back harness which will allow me to tap into the radio signals to convert those lines into RCA cables for the LC7i.

Currently I'm in the middle of receiving all my orders. Nothing touched on my car yet. Still factory.

Before I had no intentions of replacing the center speaker. Because that is linked directly to the cars main chimes and alerts. Not sure if any music is played through this. But if you actually notice a difference in sound just from that, I would be willing to upgrade mine as well.

Also to note, I will be adding a ton of sound deadening material throughout my car. So I might be stripping my interior.

Yes I'm insane but I drive way too much not to enjoy my music during my 200+ miles daily.

If anyone has questions or comments please hit me up. I love to see your thoughts.

By the way, I am a bass head from the central valley in California. Originally from the bay area.

Look me up via YouTube @ " Ptotherum".
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the detail! How hard to change out the center speaker? Also, any reason you couldn't have used the coaxial CDT CL-6EX.2? I listen to music some but it's not a passion so I don't want to mess with anything I don't have to. I really was hoping to replace the 4 door speakers with something coax to get a little better highs and cleaner lows/mids and just leave the factory garbage in the dash. Is it worth doing just that? All I'd need then is 4 speakers, mounting plates, and wire adapters, I assume.
I believe coaxials will fit in the door just the same, but for the record your money and time is probably better spent replacing the dash speakers and not the doors, if you have to be choosy.

It's very easy to get to the center channel and corner dash speakers- just lift up the panel. But it does require cutting off the factory connectors and directly connecting the wires to new speakers. I used crimp connectors. Also the polarity is not well noted on the factory wiring or speaker. I used a 9v battery on the factory speaker to figure out which was which (too bad I didn't write it down).

Good luck
 

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Bought my 2016 Volt with Bose system and felt that, while not horrible, it wasn't what I was hoping for. The once venerable "Bose" named system consists of little more than several low quality, paper cone speakers placed in fairly strategic locations. The factory system is capable of getting loud, but is riddled with intermodulation distortion and break up, at even moderate volumes. With some research, I ended up putting together what I consider to be a reasonable upgrade for the gen2 w/ Bose. The upgrade consists mostly of speaker replacements (with one additional amp for the sub). I have seen several posts that indicate that some others may be interested in a setup like this, so I figured I'd share. Unfortunately, I didn't take the time to photo document the actual procedure of replacing stuff, but honestly there is plenty of documentation out there about how to access and replace these speakers. I got a lot of useful info myself from this forum. If there is interest, I will be happy to point people in the right direction.

My main criteria for the upgrade was:

1. Under $1000 (actual cost was around $900)
2. The factory entertainment system and amplification will be left alone, since they are fairly integral to the vehicle.
3. The upgrade should be straightforward and should achieve as much of an improvement as possible without requiring addition of, hacking of, or software tuning of, a DSP, or dismantling the Chevy Mylink stack to interface to some intermediate stage of audio.
4. The upgrade should be as stealth as possible using factory speaker locations, with no disadvantage to the cargo area, etc. (i.e. no additional sub box)

One important thing to know about the Volt sound system, as others have pointed out, is that the Chevy Mylink system is connected to an amplifier with a factory programmed DSP, which affects independent speaker EQ and volume characteristics on a curve. This is probably to compensate for specifics of the speakers and cabin acoustics. Since we will be changing these characteristics, the ultimate solution would really require circumventing this. There is an aftermarket device (name escapes me) that allows one to get straight, unamplified outputs from the factory unit without these DSP adjustments. My solution is technically a compromise without something like this. That being said, I believe many people would be extremely happy with the results I was able to achieve without having to go to this extent. It turns out that having the Bose system design does provide a lot of the groundwork needed for a truly great sounding system, but falls short largely in the area of actual speaker quality.

As mentioned, this upgrade consists largely of direct speaker replacements at all factory locations, with the exception of the subwoofer, which consists of both a speaker and amplifier upgrade. The upgrades are summarized below, in order of largest to smallest impact on listening quality.

1. Corner dash tweeters. The factory solution is some kind of small 2.75" AC Delco tweeter that has a big problem with losing definition at or above middle volume. I replaced mine with Kenwood Excelon KFC-X2C, cost $70 for pair. Installation was very straightforward as they line up perfectly with the factory holes. The connection required cutting/splicing as no adapter seems to be available. You need to be really careful to get the polarity right as the factory doesn't really give you any clues. I used a 9v battery to figure out which terminal was + and - (if the cone moves OUT, terminals match the battery). After the upgrade, the improvement was substantial and resulted in the most significant impact to my ears. The sound stage and dynamics were dramatically improved, and listening at spirited volumes became a rewarding experience. If you do nothing else, you should look at this, as it will probably be the best $70 you ever spent on your car (unless you really just don't care).

2. Trunk subwoofer (and amp). The factory solution is an 8" speaker in a built-in custom built enclosure, niftily located behind the passenger side trunk panel. There is a notably underpowered factory amplifier powering this speaker. I added a compact Clarion XC2110 class D amplifier. This 300W, class D amp is really small and uses very little power. I mounted it in the styrofoam right below the trunk mat. This amp can take a high level input, so I simply connected that to the leads that fed the factory speaker. I wired the Clarion's remote turn-on to the lighter outlet in the rear seating area.

The factory sub itself probably isn't horrible, but I wasn't sure about the power handling, so I replaced it with a Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW800F 4 ohm, shallow mount speaker for $170. The basket fits perfectly into the factory enclosure after you shave off the little plastic alignment studs. I used self-drilling screws to anchor the new speaker, since the screw holes did not line up. Though not critical, I encourage you to install some sound deadening material around the inside of the enclosure while the speaker is out. I used Noico RED 315 mil self adhesive, which came in a nice pack for $30. Note that the port diameter of the factory enclosure is a really a bit small for higher SPL under 80Hz or so, but I found it was not much of a problem for most material, especially if you are not cruising the strip while playing the brown note, and are just trying to achieve a well rounded sound system. The amp has a bass boost, LPF, and gain control. I set bass boost to zero, LPF to no-effect (the factory already sends an LPF signal so you don't need to filter it further), and the gain at about 85-90%. The gain control is super touchy in this range, so you'll need to play with it to get the balance just right with the rest of the system. Total cost of amp, speaker, sound deadening: $390. It makes a big difference. The sub now has some real power and you'll know it right away.

2. Center channel. The factory solution is an unremarkable 3.5" paper cone mid range speaker. Again, breaks up pretty bad at anything other than driving-home-from-church-volume. Center channel speaker is pretty key as it serves both front seats, so I kind of splurged on this one and got an Infinity Reference REF-3032-cfx. Came as a pair for $90 but I only used one. This speaker sounds amazing, and I highly recommend incorporating it into the upgrade. Due to its key position, the center channel services the entire car, so don't underestimate the value of improving it.

4. Door speakers. The factory mid-bass door speakers are pretty garbage. Really just a simple paper 6" speaker. I am really disappointed that this thing is labeled "Bose" as it is really a pointless connotation. These speakers do a surprisingly mediocre job of recreating mid-bass given that they only have one job. These are not even the kind that have to try to produce full range using a whizzer cone in the middle, a la 2-way/coaxial. It's important to know that these are 2 ohm speakers. I replaced with CDT audio CL-6.2 speakers, which are also 2 ohm. The mid bass is far more detailed and natural, not to mention tighter. You'll want the Scosche SAGMHR-634 brackets (which you will need to dremel off the inside screw holes for the CDT baskets to fit), and Metra 72-5600 connection adapters. The total cost was around $340. These speakers are a really good match for the factory ones in terms of impedance and sensitivity. I can't stress enough that this is where a lot of aftermarket speaker upgrades in the Volt tend to fall down. Without a good match here, the door speakers will be too quiet, and out of balance with the other speakers. If you turn it up to compensate, the tweeters and sub are working really hard, and all hell breaks loose.

So yeah. Around $900 and a DIY friendly, pretty straightforward installation path to true audio bliss. Perhaps this seems a bit much to some, but to others this might be more surmountable that some $2000+ upgrades proposed (amp interface, amps, DSP, and all speakers). I know that in some cases the very topic of paying for/achieving good audio in cars seems to invoke a holy war with people, so I make no representations about whether you should choose this or not. Just throwing another possibility out there, for gen2 owners who are disappointed in their Bose system, are put off about spending twice as much, plus days of ripping stuff apart, reassembling, and programming DSPs.

If anyone is interested in pursuing, and would like more specifics about what I did, I am happy to provide.

Cheers
Have you determined what processing the center channel is receiving? Curious if it’s simply a mono signal.
 

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First timer here. Hi everyone

I purchased a 2017 with Bose system and I feel the same way. Not enough for my liking. Recently I went stereo shopping. One shop quoted me $2600. For a complete system upgrade.

But I know better. I also went into Crutchfields website and inquired about getting my own diy setup. That turned out to be just as expensive. Putting the two scenarios together, I came up with my own version. A little YouTube for good measure and bam. Almost $1500 into parts now.

My plan is to upgrade all speakers in the doors with Alpine type Rs. 6 channel JL amp and a nice JL 12 sub. Oh yes I almost forgot the LC7i loc converter.

I found a YouTube channel called LLJ customs who specialize in car audio harness builds. So I placed an order. $200 for a loop back harness which will allow me to tap into the radio signals to convert those lines into RCA cables for the LC7i.

Currently I'm in the middle of receiving all my orders. Nothing touched on my car yet. Still factory.

Before I had no intentions of replacing the center speaker. Because that is linked directly to the cars main chimes and alerts. Not sure if any music is played through this. But if you actually notice a difference in sound just from that, I would be willing to upgrade mine as well.

Also to note, I will be adding a ton of sound deadening material throughout my car. So I might be stripping my interior.

Yes I'm insane but I drive way too much not to enjoy my music during my 200+ miles daily.

If anyone has questions or comments please hit me up. I love to see your thoughts.

By the way, I am a bass head from the central valley in California. Originally from the bay area.

Look me up via YouTube @ " Ptotherum".
Did you ever consider the PAC Amppro?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have you determined what processing the center channel is receiving? Curious if it’s simply a mono signal.
I did not do any testing to confirm this, but my ears tell me that 1. All of the dash speakers are all rolled off with a high pass EQ, and 2.) the center channel is a summation of the signal going to the corner dash speakers. Again, I didn't actually check this with a scope or anything, so this may not be much of an answer for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you ever consider the PAC Amppro?
Yes. For one, there appears to be some question as to whether it is supported in the Volt. I think the word here is that it probably would work for my car... But I also wanted to purchase/install/find places to mount as little extra stuff as possible. So I decided I would start by replacing all the speakers, and adding only a sub amp (since I would need to do all that with a PAC Amppro anyway). And my conclusion is, the result was impressive enough to me that I'm not motivated to go any further.
 

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100% agree with OP - I recently traded in my '17 Cruze Hatchback for an '18 Volt & immediately noticed how underwhelming the Bose system is in the Volt. The Bose in the Cruze wasn't out of the world by any means [I'm sure a contributing factor was that it only has one sub in the spare tire well whereas the sedan has two in the rear deck], but it was noticeably better than the Volt IMO.

I came across this thread and pulled the trigger purchasing the suggested Kenwood tweeters & the Infinity center channel speaker - thank you @doctor567! Crutchfield was sold out of both sets of speakers, so I ordered them elsewhere. I bought the Volt installation manual, still waiting for it to show up.

While I'm waiting for the manual, a few things came to mind:
  • For the tweeters: did you use the crossover the speakers come with? I imagine the Bose tuning would eliminate the need for it, but wasn't sure.
  • I noticed a bass enhanced version of the CL-6.2 on CDT's site [CL-6EBE.2] that are the same price as the CL-6.2's (which are normally $150, on sale for $99)
    • thoughts? Both are 2 ohm & I didn't see that the EBE's had significant differences aside from the 'slightly enhanced bass response' & the mounting depth being 0.25" smaller.
  • IIRC, most Bose systems have an Active Noise Cancelling system of some kind along with their tuning - I never fussed with the stereo in the Cruze because it definitely did and I didn't want to mess it up or have to replace the entire thing to upgrade. Does our Volt have one? Sounds like even if it does, this solution @doctor567 laid out isn't impeded by it.
I'm planning to also mod/replace the factory sub & piggyback an amp off the factory one like OP did, but that's for another day. Admittedly, I haven't messed with sound systems in any of my cars since my '04 Saturn, so I have a lot of catching up to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
100% agree with OP - I recently traded in my '17 Cruze Hatchback for an '18 Volt & immediately noticed how underwhelming the Bose system is in the Volt. The Bose in the Cruze wasn't out of the world by any means [I'm sure a contributing factor was that it only has one sub in the spare tire well whereas the sedan has two in the rear deck], but it was noticeably better than the Volt IMO.

I came across this thread and pulled the trigger purchasing the suggested Kenwood tweeters & the Infinity center channel speaker - thank you @doctor567! Crutchfield was sold out of both sets of speakers, so I ordered them elsewhere. I bought the Volt installation manual, still waiting for it to show up.

While I'm waiting for the manual, a few things came to mind:
  • For the tweeters: did you use the crossover the speakers come with? I imagine the Bose tuning would eliminate the need for it, but wasn't sure.
  • I noticed a bass enhanced version of the CL-6.2 on CDT's site [CL-6EBE.2] that are the same price as the CL-6.2's (which are normally $150, on sale for $99)
    • thoughts? Both are 2 ohm & I didn't see that the EBE's had significant differences aside from the 'slightly enhanced bass response' & the mounting depth being 0.25" smaller.
  • IIRC, most Bose systems have an Active Noise Cancelling system of some kind along with their tuning - I never fussed with the stereo in the Cruze because it definitely did and I didn't want to mess it up or have to replace the entire thing to upgrade. Does our Volt have one? Sounds like even if it does, this solution @doctor567 laid out isn't impeded by it.
I'm planning to also mod/replace the factory sub & piggyback an amp off the factory one like OP did, but that's for another day. Admittedly, I haven't messed with sound systems in any of my cars since my '04 Saturn, so I have a lot of catching up to do.
Tweeters: I kept them as they were out of the box. The Bose processing probably does have a high pass, but the crossovers should have no effect if there are no frequencies low enough coming to the speaker.

CL-6.2s: The bass enhanced version seems neat. I wasn't aware of that, or I suppose I might have considered it. That being said, the ones I got seem to punch hard in the 80-100 Hz range, and with the sub upgrades I have not felt a need anything lower from those speakers. My guess is that either version would be fine.

I have not ever been aware of active noise cancelling in the Volt. But even if it does, I don't see how having better speakers would have any negative impact on that, assuming one pays close attention to polarity so nothing is out of phase.
 

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Tweeters: I kept them as they were out of the box. The Bose processing probably does have a high pass, but the crossovers should have no effect if there are no frequencies low enough coming to the speaker.

CL-6.2s: The bass enhanced version seems neat. I wasn't aware of that, or I suppose I might have considered it. That being said, the ones I got seem to punch hard in the 80-100 Hz range, and with the sub upgrades I have not felt a need anything lower from those speakers. My guess is that either version would be fine.

I have not ever been aware of active noise cancelling in the Volt. But even if it does, I don't see how having better speakers would have any negative impact on that, assuming one pays close attention to polarity so nothing is out of phase.
Just want to thank everyone’s hard work and insight that went into this thread. I went ahead and purchased the dash, center and door speakers mentioned in this thread for my sons 17th birthday- as we Just purchased a 2018 LT with the comfort package for $13k. This will be a nice little project or us, many thanks gents!
 

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The CDT audio CL-6.2 speakers are discontinued - does anyone have any recommendations for the 4 door speakers?

And OP - you mentioned the Clarion XC2110 amp - so you just basically put this between the factory amp and the sub?Is wiring pretty straight forward? I've replaced many speakers before but haven't touched factory amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm not sure what you mean by discontinued - as in they don't make them anymore? The CDT CL-6.2 speaker is available at this moment on Amazon, and at Woofers Etc. which is where I got mine, for $149 ea.


The amp wiring is straightforward.

1. You take the output of the factory amp (I went ahead and cut the wire at the factory woofer's connector) and run that it into the "high input" wires on the Clarion amp. Make sure to pay attention to polarity. I don't remember the color codes, but it is labeled on the factory woofer terminals, so you should be able to figure it out if you follow the wires down.

2. "Speaker out" from Clarion is the 2 gray wires. Connect those to the new sub (obviously), paying attention to polarity.

3. The "remote turn on" wire is actually a third wire on the "Speaker out" harness (I think it's blue). For this, I ran a wire from the trunk, under the back seats, and tied into the rear passenger cigar lighter outlet. (To keep the outlet available for use, I pulled the trim off and spliced into pos. wire). In this way, the sub amp only comes on when the car is powered on, so it won't kill your 12V battery.

4. Finally you need to get 12V to power the amp. This is pretty easy since the 12V battery is in the trunk. I put a 40amp fuse holder inline with the amp's red wire, and tied that to the battery terminal. I drilled the amp's black wire somewhere into the metal floor using a ring terminal and a self drilling screw.

I cut out the styrofoam in the trunk tray to make a spot for the amp to tuck into. In this position, it does get super hot when I run it hard for a while, so I wish I had a place with more ventilation. But I am trying to keep it invisible. It's survived fine for almost a year now.

Good luck


The CDT audio CL-6.2 speakers are discontinued - does anyone have any recommendations for the 4 door speakers?

And OP - you mentioned the Clarion XC2110 amp - so you just basically put this between the factory amp and the sub?Is wiring pretty straight forward? I've replaced many speakers before but haven't touched factory amps.
 

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Thanks for the directions on the amp - very straight forward.

For the speakers - I'm in Canada, and usually when we Canadians click on a amazon.com link, it'll tell us the price and shipping cost to Canada. If they don't ship to Canada it usually still tells me the price, but for that listing I have to log out of my Canadian account to see the price (no shipping to Canada unfortunately) - thanks though. Should have checked that first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the directions on the amp - very straight forward.

For the speakers - I'm in Canada, and usually when we Canadians click on a amazon.com link, it'll tell us the price and shipping cost to Canada. If they don't ship to Canada it usually still tells me the price, but for that listing I have to log out of my Canadian account to see the price (no shipping to Canada unfortunately) - thanks though. Should have checked that first.
Gotcha. Well luckily, Woofers Etc. seems to ship internationally (according to their website). They were nice and quite helpful in my dealings with them. Highly recommend
 
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