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A few weeks ago I noticed the "clicking" noise in the front drivers side wheel area that others have reported on this thread.

According to the previous threads most, if not all, of the people reporting this have found it to be a loose or faulty shaft axel wing nut and washer. Others have found this needs to be tightened or replaced.

I took my car into the dealer and they said the shaft is fine but that the brake pads are loose and should be replaced.

They quoted me $421 to replace the brake pads and $122 to do a brake flush.

What should I do?

It was my understanding brake pads do not need to be touched on the volt for a very, very long time.

Please let me know

Thanks
 

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Does the clicking noise happen both with accelerating and lifting from the gas pedal? When this was happening on my car it was more like a muffled pop and I could get it to repeat easily by pressing and releasing the gas pedal or tapping the brakes.

In my case it's wasn't a faulty shaft, but just loose axle nuts. I took my Volt in to my service advisor to have Paula torque my nuts. Hindsight being 20/20 I should have taken the opportunity to buy the right sized socket to torque my own nuts.

It's possible the clicking is coming from the brakes, but you might want to try torquing your nuts before doing the brake job. I've never seen brake pads come loose and make this clicking noise in 29 years of car ownership. Actually, brake pads are supposed to be loose - they float between the brake cylinder and the rotors. If you have the means to jack the front end up, take off the tires, you can easily check the brake pads by taking a big C clamp to them to push the brake cylinder back.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, then ask the dealer to guarantee the brake job. If the clicking noise persists after the brake job, make them eat the cost and cover the subsequent repair needed to the axles, bearings, or axle nuts.

BTW, check with the Chevy parts department to see how much brake pads are. And unless you've driven a ton of miles, I highly doubt the brake flush is needed. Caveat all this with the fact that I'm not a mechanic, only a shade tree mechanic. And without looking at the car with my own eyes, this is all conjecture over the internet. I also don't trust the meatheads who like to use their air powered torque wrenches as far too often, they do a tire rotation wrong and warp my brake rotors. So I avoid other people torquing my wheels at all cost. I do all that myself.
 

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Volt brakes can get messed up by winter conditions, and I see you're in a winter climate. By "messed up" I mean salt and sand can get on the pads and gouge the rotors and pads. But still, sounds too early on a 2014. Run a finger on your rotors, are they horribly grooved?

I did have clicking from my brakes after a few winters, and my dealership cleaned and lubed them and they were fine. I'd be shocked if you actually needed new pads. Luckily brakes are not Voltec (well, evidently the rotors are special, but still) so any 3rd party shop can give you a second opinion on this. I wouldn't believe the dealership on this, and that price sounds high for just new pads anyway. Have someone else look at it.

I also had clicking from the front earlier this year, the dealer told me I needed new front axles, but they were back ordered. Months later, they still have not contacted me (big surprise) but the clicking stopped in warmer weather. I assume it will resume this fall, and I'll see if they have parts then. Others have said they'll sometimes replace the whole axle because replacing just the nut/washer is a pain, and if it's still under warranty, they'll do the axle as it's easier.
 

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I also had clicking from the front earlier this year, the dealer told me I needed new front axles, but they were back ordered. Months later, they still have not contacted me (big surprise) but the clicking stopped in warmer weather. I assume it will resume this fall, and I'll see if they have parts then. Others have said they'll sometimes replace the whole axle because replacing just the nut/washer is a pain, and if it's still under warranty, they'll do the axle as it's easier.
My clicking happened during the winter time, so maybe your temp theory is true. If the clicking comes back, don't hesitate to have it looked at as if you catch it early, a nut torquing is all that is needed. If you let it go too long, you will wear out the bearings and it might need new bearings or an axle assembly.
 

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Two points, my clicking noise in my 2013 was caused by the front brake clipper brake pad guide pin's the needed lubing. And second I doubt you need new brakes or fluid. That's questionable.
 

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I too recently noticed a clicking noise on what seems to be coming from the front passenger side as best I can tell. It is more pronounced driving in L and when starting off and when letting of the peddle say up to 5mph say when driving through a parking lot. In D mode doing the same it is less prounced sound wise. Once driving, I don't seem to hear it. I too am wondering what to ask the dealer to check and avoid getting milked on nonesense for my 2014.
 

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I've lost track of the number of times I've said this.

Rinse off your brakes/rims on a regular basis, ESPECIALLY in the winter.
 

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Does the clicking noise happen both with accelerating and lifting from the gas pedal? When this was happening on my car it was more like a muffled pop and I could get it to repeat easily by pressing and releasing the gas pedal or tapping the brakes.

In my case it's wasn't a faulty shaft, but just loose axle nuts. I took my Volt in to my service advisor to have Paula torque my nuts. Hindsight being 20/20 I should have taken the opportunity to buy the right sized socket to torque my own nuts.

It's possible the clicking is coming from the brakes, but you might want to try torquing your nuts before doing the brake job. I've never seen brake pads come loose and make this clicking noise in 29 years of car ownership. Actually, brake pads are supposed to be loose - they float between the brake cylinder and the rotors. If you have the means to jack the front end up, take off the tires, you can easily check the brake pads by taking a big C clamp to them to push the brake cylinder back.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, then ask the dealer to guarantee the brake job. If the clicking noise persists after the brake job, make them eat the cost and cover the subsequent repair needed to the axles, bearings, or axle nuts.

BTW, check with the Chevy parts department to see how much brake pads are. And unless you've driven a ton of miles, I highly doubt the brake flush is needed. Caveat all this with the fact that I'm not a mechanic, only a shade tree mechanic. And without looking at the car with my own eyes, this is all conjecture over the internet. I also don't trust the meatheads who like to use their air powered torque wrenches as far too often, they do a tire rotation wrong and warp my brake rotors. So I avoid other people torquing my wheels at all cost. I do all that myself.
I'm with Ilninga on this. Something may be loose in the brake assembly componentry, but the pads are not loose, nor do you need to replace brake fluid. Some anti rattle or hold down clips may be loose. What many of us have found is improperly torqued axle nut. Matter of fact, there is a part number for a kit to replace the existing nut and washer if you pm me I will see if I can find it.
 

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I think I'd be looking for a second opinion. The whole things sounds a bit dicey, especially when they're suggesting a brake flush.

If the clicking comes back, don't hesitate to have it looked at as if you catch it early, a nut torquing is all that is needed.
The protocol is to replace both nuts. I wouldn't mess with a lesser fix. Hopefully in this case the work will be covered by the warranty.
 

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If you don't touch the brakes when duplicating the problem, how could it be the pads? Mine(2013) had this same problem. When driving at slow speeds, any time I pressed or released the accelerator I would hear the "click"(I drive in "L" exclusively). I tried tightening the axle nut and this did nothing. The dealer replaced the driver's side axle under warranty and this corrected the problem.
 

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I think I'd be looking for a second opinion. The whole things sounds a bit dicey, especially when they're suggesting a brake flush.

The protocol is to replace both nuts. I wouldn't mess with a lesser fix. Hopefully in this case the work will be covered by the warranty.
But I'm having a whole lot more fun using the phrase "my service advisor Paula torqued my nuts". I ended up paying $116 for the nut tightening. I was hoping it was covered under warranty, but didn't fight it very hard. I think if you catch it early, no bearing or axle replacement is needed, but if you let it go too long, it all needs to be replaced. But it appears that the consensus is this dealership guessed wrong. But without seeing the car first hand, we could also be wrong.
 

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If you don't touch the brakes when duplicating the problem, how could it be the pads? Mine(2013) had this same problem. When driving at slow speeds, any time I pressed or released the accelerator I would hear the "click"(I drive in "L" exclusively). I tried tightening the axle nut and this did nothing. The dealer replaced the driver's side axle under warranty and this corrected the problem.
I was thinking the same thing. If I am not touching the brakes at all how can it be the brakes. It also does not click when going in reverse btw.
 

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I was thinking the same thing. If I am not touching the brakes at all how can it be the brakes. It also does not click when going in reverse btw.
The symptoms are sounding more and more like axle nuts, then maybe bearings, then xle itself. I contend if you catch it early enough you can stop the popping and not have to replace anything else. Mine were torqued 15 months ago, and no popping since.
 

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So now I am hearing clicking but more so from using the brake and then gas not just coasting and using the gas on and off. This now seems to beo n my driver side unlike my earlier post of passenger side which axle nut tightening fixed it but not on the driver side. Someone mentioned brake guide pins sticking. Funny thing is I have noticed on occassion my brakses though not on seem stuck to the rotor and brake free from say after driving in rain or such noting I drive the car usually once a day. But from last park to next drive seems to be enough to have it seems stuck purely by not freely staring to backout my garage always where its parked. So is anything related the front brakes pin guides or clips of whatever nature worth the checkout? As I said tightening the axle nut did not seem to fix it and it seems to be heard after braking and starting off again.
 

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So now I am hearing clicking but more so from using the brake and then gas not just coasting and using the gas on and off. This now seems to beo n my driver side unlike my earlier post of passenger side which axle nut tightening fixed it but not on the driver side. Someone mentioned brake guide pins sticking. Funny thing is I have noticed on occassion my brakses though not on seem stuck to the rotor and brake free from say after driving in rain or such noting I drive the car usually once a day. But from last park to next drive seems to be enough to have it seems stuck purely by not freely staring to backout my garage always where its parked. So is anything related the front brakes pin guides or clips of whatever nature worth the checkout? As I said tightening the axle nut did not seem to fix it and it seems to be heard after braking and starting off again.
After Paula the service rep torqued my nuts there was no popping for a about a year and a half, but after that the noise returned so she replaced and lubed my bearings. They have never had to touch the brakes on my Volt.

YMMV
 

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After Paula the service rep torqued my nuts there was no popping for a about a year and a half, but after that the noise returned so she replaced and lubed my bearings. They have never had to touch the brakes on my Volt.
YMMV
We are still talking about your Volt, right? :)
 

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<snip>Funny thing is I have noticed on occassion my brakses though not on seem stuck to the rotor and brake free from say after driving in rain or such noting I drive the car usually once a day. But from last park to next drive seems to be enough to have it seems stuck purely by not freely staring to backout my garage always where its parked. <snip>
This happens to me also after a rain and sitting in the garage overnight. Even though the rotors had the FNC factory treatment, miles and miles of use has caused a wearing down of the outer surface and allowed the "sticking" of the pads after a rain...at least, that's my theory. I don't think that there is any need to worry about that.
 

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Thanks all.
What did the bearing replacement cost you llninja?
 
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