GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a leased 2015. I'd like to put a receiver hitch on it so I can transport bicycles. I've seen the various stealth models out there, but I can't see paying upwards of $300 for a receiver hitch for a leased car. I also don't want to cut into the bumper, for the same reason. Finally, I only plan to use it during late Spring and early Fall, so removable would be good. I'll be carrying two mountain bikes.

What have people's experiences been with the Curt 112211?



It uses a 1 1/4 socket, so I don't think it will add much to the bottom end. It's not very attractive, but I don't think it will scrape.

I'm also toying with the idea of making it more like the Stealth hitch, which would involve splitting the plates that hold the receiver and using bolts, spacers, and two heavy duty plates with four holes drilled in them to hold it on while I'm using it. Any thoughts on that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
That is the European style ball hitch standard. That part is removed for your bike rack adapter. The issue is that most bike racks adapters are set up for 2" receivers. However, They do make 2" Female to 1 1/4" male adapters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I have this installed on my 2013. https://torkliftcentral.com/2011-2015-chevy-volt-ecohitch-stealth

It is nice because you can remove the receiver when you're not using it so the rest of the hitch is completely hidden.

Also no drilling was required. :D

I got the smaller 1 1/4" and never had any scraping issue, even with the Yakima bike mount attached. No sag at all. 200lb tongue weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have the Torklift and did a self install. It was not bad with the fishing the mounting bolts through the frame the biggest pain. I was worried about clearance but have only dragged a few times on the biggest pitches. The thing is beefy and I feel worth the extra money for the extra weight limits and to avoid cutting into the cargo bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
I have the Torklift and did a self install. It was not bad with the fishing the mounting bolts through the frame the biggest pain. I was worried about clearance but have only dragged a few times on the biggest pitches. The thing is beefy and I feel worth the extra money for the extra weight limits and to avoid cutting into the cargo bottom.
^ I agree with this and had similar experiences during my install. Just back it up onto ramps and get a buddy to help. It's heavy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,076 Posts
I have the Curt, as I also couldn't see spending over $300 for a hitch, when I could get the curt for less than $100 on Amazon.
The Curt has worked out great for me. I have never scraped on anything, and you really hardly notice it's there. I use it to pull a small 4x8 utility trailer around, and it does the job just fine.

From what I've heard, it's not ideal for bike racks. It only mounts to the frame on one side. The other side just bolts to the trunk floor. For that reason, the bikes may bounce a bit on the back. They do sell a stabilizer strap that you hook to the rack, and then somewhere in the trunk, but I can't speak for how it works.

Personally, if it's just for a bike rack, I would just get one the straps onto the hatch. I have an old one, and for the few times I use it, it works just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
I looked into this a lot when I first got my Volt, but I ended up just cramming it in the back on the rare occasions I do go biking. But I did compile a list of threads here. This one shows measurements and is a good indication that you shouldn't have issues scraping. I think the torklift one is better, but it's a shame it costs so much more. You might be able to sell it at the end of the lease, which could cut down on the cost overall?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Personally, if it's just for a bike rack, I would just get one the straps onto the hatch. I have an old one, and for the few times I use it, it works just fine.

I've been told that the hatch racks aren't a good idea on the Volt. Was I misinformed?

I went ahead and bought the Curt and a hitch rack made by Bell. The whole package ran less than $200, and I plan to use some sort of stabilizing strap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I looked into this a lot when I first got my Volt, but I ended up just cramming it in the back on the rare occasions I do go biking. But I did compile a list of threads here. This one shows measurements and is a good indication that you shouldn't have issues scraping.
Wow. That's very useful information!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,076 Posts
I've been told that the hatch racks aren't a good idea on the Volt. Was I misinformed?

I went ahead and bought the Curt and a hitch rack made by Bell. The whole package ran less than $200, and I plan to use some sort of stabilizing strap.
I didn't have any problems using mine. You may need longer straps though, as the hatch is very long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
FWIW, I have the exact Curt hitch on my 2012. When you install it, make sure you super tighten the driver side bolts so that there is absolutely zero "play" between the hitch, the underbody sheet metal, and the thick metal plates that reinforce that mounting point. Another Volt owner in my area "just tightened" it which allowed the hitch to move ever so slightly at that D/S mounting point. Extending that movement out a foot or two where the bike rack is, it'll look like the bikes are going to heave off the rack. Bottom line, get a big-ass breaker bar and tighten the heck outta the D/S bolts; it'll probably even flatten some of the sheet metal. That's OK - you want a super solid connection. But don't over tighten the passenger side bolts.

By using a hitch rack, you don't suffer the miles per charge reduction from a roof rack. Plus I can carry two bikes without disassembling. Do I trust the hitch? Definitely: I'm carrying a Yeti SB6c worth 3/4 of the current value of my Volt! I'm not using a stabilizing strap either - it's solid, no bouncing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Also have the Curt on mine. The bike carrier I have can be 1 1/4 or 2 so its easy to switch out between my SUV and car as needed which is why I wanted a hitch style in the first place since I already had a decent bike carrier. Mounted mine pretty quickly and easily. Had mine for roughly 2 years and in the spring to fall months I have my bike on the car multiple times a week with no issues. I have scraped it once pulling into a grass parking area where the road drops off about as much as a standard curb. Thats about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
657 Posts
My wife and I are currently on a little getaway trip hauling our kayaks and paddleboards down to Newport, Oregon. There are no convenient charging options where we are staying, so it looks like this trip is going to be almost all on gas. The trailer and boards are pretty light, but even so are mileage is down to around 34 mpg. I am guess it is mostly aero drag. I am using hold mode most of the time, trying to hold about 35 miles of ev range. I switch back to normal mode whenever going down a long grade so as to pick up as many extra ev miles as possible. It's kind of a game and gives me something to do while on a long 5 hour trip. I really did research chaging opportunities along our route, but there really wasn't anything convenient or reliable. Glad I am in a Volt and not a Bolt. On the other hand, if we had a Tesla there would have been a number of locations to stay charged....clearly Tesla "owns" the long distance ev travel market. GM has alot of catch-up to do in this regard.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top