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I think that only works on the 2011 model year. That method was associated with some problems where cars were detecting sensors on other vehicles, so they killed that feature.
 

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Anyone know if this works for the Gen 2?
Doesn't work for all of Gen 1 so I would say no. Agree with Barry it only works for 2011 MY.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. $80 to rotate the tires myself?! No way. I'll just remember which is which!
 

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Thanks. $80 to rotate the tires myself?! No way. I'll just remember which is which!
It depends how many times you rotate the tires. If you do it twice, it's $40 each time. If you do it 4 times, it's $20 each time and so on, and so on.

I bought the tool because after my dealer had my car for 2 hours, they rotated the tires. They did not do the free car wash, and they did not do the relearn procedure (I only found this out when I had a low tire). Instead of burning another 2 hours at my dealer, I spent the $ for a tool that I'm certain to need anyway in the future.
 

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It depends how many times you rotate the tires. If you do it twice, it's $40 each time. If you do it 4 times, it's $20 each time and so on, and so on.

I bought the tool because after my dealer had my car for 2 hours, they rotated the tires. They did not do the free car wash, and they did not do the relearn procedure (I only found this out when I had a low tire). Instead of burning another 2 hours at my dealer, I spent the $ for a tool that I'm certain to need anyway in the future.
A post it with arrows on it in the glove box works wonders. Alternatively swing by IL and I'll happily use my reset tool on anyone's tires. The OP just needs to take a week off of work and pay for gas... alas, it's better to just buy the relearn tool.

P.S. I've decided on a grand experiment to stop rotating my tires altogether (I never rotated tires in my BMW because it said not to un the owner's manual, and that carried over into my Cadillacs and Suburban. I broke down and returned to rotating in the volt, but since I replace tires far in advance of extreme tire wear, I figure it doesn't matter any more. Any offers to buy my brand new reset tool used exactly on 2 rotations and one snow tire install?
 

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I find my left front gets a lot of wear from freeway cloverleaf interchanges. You can really push this car hard on those and get a nice four wheel drift going.
 

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I find my left front gets a lot of wear from freeway cloverleaf interchanges. You can really push this car hard on those and get a nice four wheel drift going.
I had a sidewall puncture and had to buy a new tire. Found out that there are at least 2 different sizes of the stock tires. The LF has a wider tread than the others, so that has been my strategy for wearing the new one down until it matches my spare. LF was also replaced (sidewall of course) but the dealer put the exact same size on back then.

A few more months of cloverleafing and I should be able to get matching treads again, with the spare being the oddball.
 

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I had a sidewall puncture and had to buy a new tire. Found out that there are at least 2 different sizes of the stock tires. The LF has a wider tread than the others, so that has been my strategy for wearing the new one down until it matches my spare. LF was also replaced (sidewall of course) but the dealer put the exact same size on back then.

A few more months of cloverleafing and I should be able to get matching treads again, with the spare being the oddball.
After seeing first hand how thin the tread was in the Goodyears (and seeing a pebble embed itself into the tread to create the puncture, I went with some really deep tread Yokohamas on 18" wheels.
 

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Thanks. $80 to rotate the tires myself?! No way. I'll just remember which is which!
In 5 years I have rotated my tires 15 times (including the snow tires). So that's what, $80/15=$5. And I have at least 15 more ahead. So now we are down to $2.50 per rotation over the life of the car. And when I get my Bolt, I'll be using it on that as well.

Bonus, I do the rotations better than many service centers will. I carefully inspect each tire for metal bits, look for damage, etc.
 

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Thanks. $80 to rotate the tires myself?! No way. I'll just remember which is which!
Plus a torque wrench (or you risk cracking the lug holes on the wheel or damaging the nut seats, stretching the lug bolts, stripping threads off the lug bolts, warping brake discs, etc) for $40. Plus a jack ($20), jack stands so the thing doesn't topple over ($25 each) and some wheel chocks ($20 -- also so it doesn't topple over), and you might get sick of how slow the cheap scissor jack works and decide you need a floor jack (another $50). So we're up to around $200 now and we're just ROTATING tires. And how much is my time worth? I figure I'm worth about $30 an hour minimum, since this isn't something I find interesting to do.

End result: It's only every 7500 miles. It's probably worth paying someone else to do, correctly.
 

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Bonus, I do the rotations better than many service centers will. I carefully inspect each tire for metal bits, look for damage, etc.
More importantly, you can torque the lug nuts to 75 ft. lbs. like the should be instead of having them impacted on at 130 ft. lbs and impossible to remove with hand tools.

Nothing will turn a nice guy into the incredible hulk on the side of the road like trying to change a flat and the lug nuts are BEYOND too tight to get off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOXpKUu6pUg
 

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More importantly, you can torque the lug nuts to 75 ft. lbs. like the should be instead of having them impacted on at 130 ft. lbs and impossible to remove with hand tools.


AFAIK: Lug nut torque spec for Gen2 Volts is the same as it was for Gen1 at a nice even 100 lb ft...
 

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Plus a torque wrench
Plus a jack
and some wheel chocks
That's all you really need and I already had them. Plus, they work on your other cars as well.

In addition, as has been pointed out, the quality of work is then controlled by me, not someone over-tightening lug nuts with an impact wrench (very common in my experience), someone who forgets to relearn the wheel position (we see reports about this), or someone who blindly rotates without carefully and fully examining the tires. They really don't care if you later get a preventable flat.
 

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That's all you really need and I already had them. Plus, they work on your other cars as well.

In addition, as has been pointed out, the quality of work is then controlled by me, not someone over-tightening lug nuts with an impact wrench (very common in my experience), someone who forgets to relearn the wheel position (we see reports about this), or someone who blindly rotates without carefully and fully examining the tires. They really don't care if you later get a preventable flat.
Just had a two-fer. I saw TPMS reporting one tire low, went to add air, but the indicated front tire was full, so I checked the rear on that side. Ah, that one is low. took it to the tire store to get the nail out and watched the guy "forget' to use a torque wrench. Was in a hurry, so I re-torqued it myself later.

That's actually the second time the dealer has forgotten to train the sensor positions on this car. Next time I will rotate them myself, since I don't have to listen to all the honking to get the right positions.
 

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More importantly, you can torque the lug nuts to 75 ft. lbs. like the should be instead of having them impacted on at 130 ft. lbs and impossible to remove with hand tools.

Nothing will turn a nice guy into the incredible hulk on the side of the road like trying to change a flat and the lug nuts are BEYOND too tight to get off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOXpKUu6pUg
If I could get the money back for all the warped rotors I had to replace because they torqued way to tight and didn't tighten gradually like is says in the owner's manual, I'd have enough to buy gold plated tools. The poor man's torque wrench is to just get the Cadillac CTS lug wrench. When you put all your weight on it to tighten and it doesn't move any more, you've got it about right. Alas, I've needed a breaker bar and the right sized 6 sided socket to get lug nuts off before - which is why I avoid using any dealership or tire place to install or rotate my tires. And as I've said before, I think I'll revert back to not rotating at all. The $40 wasted in tire wear is fine with me - I get new tires far in advance of hitting the minimum legal limit anyway. Safety and traction wins out over trying to eek out all the life in a set of tires.
 

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I'm kinda lazy and let Discount tire do the heavy lifting by rotating the tires on the Volt since it is included with the tire warranty I bought for the run-flats but I did verify that Discount does rebalance each tire along with this rotation (I marked the old wheel weights w/black sharpie and I got fresh weights following the rotation on all 4)!:rolleyes:

I do cheat though and promptly loosen & retorque each wheel to 100 lb ft as soon as I get back home just in case!;)
 
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