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Discussion Starter #1
So - I've had my eye on the 2nd gen volt for a a good 6 months now. Worked my plan and things are looking well on their way to actually happening soon (within 30 days hopefully)

Found out I can get GM supplier pricing through work (yay) already got my authorization number and everything. :) From what I've read the $1000 private offer should stack with this as well. yes?

I've never had supplier pricing before -- is this a set value that a volt will be sold at? or is this an additional discount on top of whatever you negotiate to? I'm looking at a base heather grey 2016 LT they have MSRP at 34,680 - listed for 32,936 here in N. Texas. I expect I would be able to negotiate it down to 31,500 before any private offers, trade in, etc. I wouldn't mind paying for leather or bose... but there doesn't seem to be any within a few hundred miles that fit that desire. (not a deal breaker)

Currently in the process of getting my house re-appraised such that PMI should drop off, values have shot up quite a lot in the past 2 years, that's an instant 80 dollars a month back in my pocket as well as relaxing my extra payments towards principal.

Combine that with trading in a 2012 kia, some cash down it it's looking very favorable and manageable. Hoping that within 30-45 days I can pull the trigger :)

If anyone has any experience with the supplier pricing and how it effects price negotiations... I'd be all ears!
 

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Gmsuppliertiscount dot com

You can configure your car and the site will give you the supplier pricing. I've purchased several cars using that price as the starting point and go down from there. The private offer will stack with some others as well, whatever you can find.
 

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I got supplier pricing (GMS) on my 2014 Stungray came to $5500 off MSRP when they were selling at MSRP and no less, then my dealer gave me GMS on our 2016 Equinox and that was about $1800 off MSRP, but to that I got the current cash rebates GM had, the Military Discount and then they surprised my with an additional $2500 as a Volt owner worked out to over $5600 off MSRP on an ordered vehicle.

So you may be entitled to other discounts as well.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gmsuppliertiscount dot com

You can configure your car and the site will give you the supplier pricing. I've purchased several cars using that price as the starting point and go down from there. The private offer will stack with some others as well, whatever you can find.
Cool - yeah I'm on that site and built the base model volt and the price comes to 32,868... so it's a whopping $68 dollar less than what's listed on the Classic Chevy's website (the one they have in stock) My biggest worry is that they are going to try and add in on the invoice/sticker the charger price of 400 dollars or something, when everything i've seen shows the charger comes WITH the car no extra cost added.

I would have a hard time believing that the supplier discount would only get me 68 bucks off their listed price... so for all intents and purposes the supplier pricing can be considered the "starting point" yes? My goal is to get ~1500 to 2000 off whatever that starting point winds up being. From there I'll stack the 1k private offer and be a pretty happy camper.
 

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Supplier price is printed on the invoice for every car. Not the window sticker. The invoice looks like a fax. Start with the invoice supplier price. Dealer does not lose money. If the dealer is discounting that gets taken off too. Other promotions from GM should come off too.
If the dealer won't follow this, find another dealer.
Costco will also get you the supplier price if you are a member.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Supplier price is printed on the invoice for every car. Not the window sticker. The invoice looks like a fax. Start with the invoice supplier price. Dealer does not lose money. If the dealer is discounting that gets taken off too. Other promotions from GM should come off too.
If the dealer won't follow this, find another dealer.
Costco will also get you the supplier price if you are a member.

Cool to know -- sadly -- the one dealer in DFW, TX that has really any volts... is the only one out of a few chevy dealerships. Hoping they dont' try and bend me over.
 

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I cannot believe that you think a good idea is dumping a 2012 Kia for a 2017 Volt. You are wasting the depreciation loss on both vehicles spread over a shorter lifetime cost. Of course, you may be made of money and have excellent cash flow and enough savings to pay for a vehicle up-front without a loan. Otherwise, if you must have a Volt, consider trading the 2012 Kia for a 2014 or 2015 Volt that you can purchase for around $15,000 and put your savings aside for the purchase of a newer Volt in five years.
 

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Cool - yeah I'm on that site and built the base model volt and the price comes to 32,868... so it's a whopping $68 dollar less than what's listed on the Classic Chevy's website (the one they have in stock) My biggest worry is that they are going to try and add in on the invoice/sticker the charger price of 400 dollars or something, when everything i've seen shows the charger comes WITH the car no extra cost added.

I would have a hard time believing that the supplier discount would only get me 68 bucks off their listed price... so for all intents and purposes the supplier pricing can be considered the "starting point" yes? My goal is to get ~1500 to 2000 off whatever that starting point winds up being. From there I'll stack the 1k private offer and be a pretty happy camper.
Classic Chevy's website may have already assumed that you will get the entire $7500 federal tax credit and adjusted the price tag to reflect that as your eventual cost instead of the actual selling price.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Classic Chevy's website may have already assumed that you will get the entire $7500 federal tax credit and adjusted the price tag to reflect that as your eventual cost instead of the actual selling price.
No they have the MSRP set a 34,680 - and the sale price (obviously negotiable) at 32,936 -- so they aren't factoring in the tax credit or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I cannot believe that you think a good idea is dumping a 2012 Kia for a 2017 Volt. You are wasting the depreciation loss on both vehicles spread over a shorter lifetime cost. Of course, you may be made of money and have excellent cash flow and enough savings to pay for a vehicle up-front without a loan. Otherwise, if you must have a Volt, consider trading the 2012 Kia for a 2014 or 2015 Volt that you can purchase for around $15,000 and put your savings aside for the purchase of a newer Volt in five years.

Before I share my thoughts -- I know you mean well. But it's my money... and its easily affordable with what I will be putting down before financing. Target payments are ~200/month.

I drive -- a LOT, my 2012 is already approaching 80K miles.... and before long I'd be close to the warranty limit of 100k, I don't want to own a car that's not covered in some way.

Already have a house, no wife, no kids, motorcycle is paid for, and I have savings and retirement building up. So why not? All I do is work. I bought the car new in 2012 because I was in economy mode and got basically the cheapest new car possible. I'll be saving $100/month in gasoline alone (already did the math, and yes that's factoring in the cost of my increased electric bill, electricity is dirt cheap here in TX)
 

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Before I share my thoughts -- I know you mean well. But it's my money... and its easily affordable with what I will be putting down before financing. Target payments are ~200/month.

I drive -- a LOT, my 2012 is already approaching 80K miles.... and before long I'd be close to the warranty limit of 100k, I don't want to own a car that's not covered in some way.

Already have a house, no wife, no kids, motorcycle is paid for, and I have savings and retirement building up. So why not? All I do is work. I bought the car new in 2012 because I was in economy mode and got basically the cheapest new car possible. I'll be saving $100/month in gasoline alone (already did the math, and yes that's factoring in the cost of my increased electric bill, electricity is dirt cheap here in TX)
Heck Ya! Go get yourself a new Volt. And if you can't find one in Texas, use Cars.com or Chevrolet's website to find one that you like elsewhere and negotiate over the phone/internet. Then either have it shipped to you or go on a road trip :)
 

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My biggest worry is that they are going to try and add in on the invoice/sticker the charger price of 400 dollars or something, when everything i've seen shows the charger comes WITH the car no extra cost added.
Yes, the 110v charger comes with the car (and can be used on 220v with a homebrew adapter).

If there is a price on the charger then the dealer has added an optional extra charger. That and the $60 wheel lock kit are common, fairly useless options they toss in to boost the price.

I got supplier pricing on my 2016 and was then able to get the dealer to split the cost of the options I didn't want. I sold the tablet holder and kept the cargo mat.

Anyone want a set of wheel locks?
 
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