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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I tend not to post any problems, and luckily I have not had to but I have an inquiry.
I know it has been a fairly easy Winter, when you think of it SNOW WISE! But earlier this year, my Volt got snowed in. Yeah, ok, the snow blower broke so i was sort of stuck. I had a different vehicle I could use so I let the VOLT sit.

As the snow finally went away, circumstance kept me in the ICE vehicle and the VOLT rested, in good shape I thought. I'd say it sat about 30 days but that's an estimate. I thought all was good as the VOLT was plugged into the charger like the manual says to do.

WELL! I go out to start the volt and NOTHING!. So Back To The VOLT Manual.

It takes me to the 12v battery. So to charge the Battery, it suggests to open hood and use the jumper points (Jumper to jump the Volt, if you need to jump another car, they want you to jump directly from the 12v battery in the back.

I jump the battery and the car lights up and beeps. Now the manual says to start the VOLT which I do (the VOLT will only charge the 12 v battery from the large power battery when the car is on), and then to remove the jumper leads. I do this and the car dies. GRUMBLE GrRRr Gramble rumble...

Back to the manual, I read it right.... I jump it agian, start the car and open the rear hatch. Again I pull the jump leads, and the car dies.

I reason the battery is really dead and ended up pulling the negative lead to charge the 12v battery. ( FAST NOTE, Direct From The MANUAL...... when the VOLT sits for any time over two-three weeks, you should put a battery maintainer on the 12v battery. There is a constant low power drain on the 12v battery, even when off. This drain will eventually drain the 12v battery of all power. The Large battery only charges the 12v battery when the VOLT is ON and running).
The charger in fast charge mode took 24 hours to charge that battery at a very high amp charge rate. Never seen this happen before. (A caution here, if outside and you are going to lower the hatch to protect from weather, BE SURE TO PUT A BOARD OR SOMETHING TO PREVENT THE HATCH FROM LATCHING. ( ask me how I know this )! ! And yes, the rear hatch is electrically latched ! ! ! I had the power cord going into the rear and thought the cord was enough to hold the hatch up from the latch, NOPE !

So the Battery is charged, the Negative lead is connected and the car starts like normal. Only not, now everything that is user settable is forgotton. You'd think GM would have sprung for some memory that won't erase when the battery goes dead.

I took it for a drive to make sure there were no new error messages, there were none. But when trying to set the dash to the dash screen I like, when it says to press SELECT to save, it doesn't. Back to the manual. The manual says I pressed the correct SELECT button on the steering wheel, just no select....

Any ideas??
Thanks all.
 

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The Large battery only charges the 12v battery when the VOLT is ON and running.
FWIW: On the Gen1 this isn't true since I have confirmed that breaking the circuit of the 12V AGM by pulling the negative lead off there is @13VDC being applied to the positive terminal of the 12V AGM whenever my Volt is plugged in and actively charging. If unplugged or when the charging cycle is complete, this @13VDC measured between B+ and chassis ground disappears.

I would expect the Gen2 to act more or less the same...

I have no idea why your button wouldn't work though...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the Volt is on you should have over 100 Amp at 14-15 Volts available to charger the 12 volt battery.[/url]
It was off, with the charge cord plugged in, sitting in its parking spot over a period of time.

Don't people have Volt meter available any more ?

posted many times : a Power port Volt meter can give you extra information in times of trouble and a early warning of a failing 12 volt battery.

quick example

https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Voltmeter-Protection-Temperature-Fahrenheit/dp/B018I1FD8Q
I know the merits of a volt meter, how it would have prevented this I am unsure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
FWIW: On the Gen1 this isn't true since I have confirmed that breaking the circuit of the 12V AGM by pulling the negative lead off there is @13VDC being applied to the positive terminal of the 12V AGM whenever my Volt is plugged in and actively charging. If unplugged or when the charging cycle is complete, this @13VDC measured between B+ and chassis ground disappears.

I would expect the Gen2 to act more or less the same...

I have no idea why your button wouldn't work though...

Yes well being my first EV, or should I say my first of the newer generation vehicles that are now using Ipad like screens and soft touch buttons and all this versatility, I am on a severe learning curve here.

So, back to the MANUAL... Going to long term storage, it says to run the main drive battery down to 2 segments on the power meter, unplug the volt from the charger, disconnect the 12v battery and run a battery maintainer.

Now they are talking storage times in MONTHS, where my car being parked was only supposed to be a week, and ended up being 4 weeks.
So the book does not mention, at least I have not yet found it, where the 12v battery should be maintained by the large high voltage battery while the VOLT is plugged in on charge.

HOWEVER, and I should re-visit this part, the MANUAL does say

page 308 (this is the part where the VOLT 12v battery is jumped from the front contacts)

5. Press POWER O to start. This
will wake up the electronics on
the Volt. After the instrument
cluster initializes, the Volt will
use power from the high
voltage battery to charge the
12-volt battery. The jumper
cables can then be
disconnected. If the Volt does
not start, call your dealer or
Roadside Assistance. See
Roadside Assistance
Program 0 345.

Being this is a jump for the VOLT 12v battery, I am assuming, the car is not plugged in for charge.

In my case, the car WAS plugged in, as directed by the Official Chevrolet VOLT User Manual....

Why the 12v battery went dead is baffling at this time. I wish the manual was a bit easier to navigate and
find the subjects as we need them. I find I have to search a lot to find what I need.

I will have to check, as you have, to see if there is charge to the 12v battery when the charger is plugged into the volt. Maybe I have a malfunction that I didn't know about. With normal use, the VOLT electronics would normally just keep the battery charged but if it sits for a time and the electronics do not charge, the battery will go down... well, new user, new learning curve.

THE SELECT BUTTON
No idea what has happened here. With the 12v battery going dead, (it was completely dead, 0 (zero) volts). That is why after jumping and starting the volt, then removing the jumper, the VOLT died. The charger was nearly pegged as it recharged the AGM battery and it took a couple hours just to get the needle to show any charge at all.
I have no idea how this has affected the select button. It worked before the VOLT was parked but it bothers me that all user settings were gone after the 12v battery went dead.
I have seen this type of button stop working on much older cars but certainly not on a new car with only 9 months on the timer.
I am guessing it will not be a big deal and I will let GM figure it out on it's next visit to the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FWIW: On the Gen1 this isn't true since I have confirmed that breaking the circuit of the 12V AGM by pulling the negative lead off there is @13VDC being applied to the positive terminal of the 12V AGM whenever my Volt is plugged in and actively charging. If unplugged or when the charging cycle is complete, this @13VDC measured between B+ and chassis ground disappears.

I would expect the Gen2 to act more or less the same...
--- / cut /.
I have a little more information...
The MANUAL does not comment on the 12v battery as far as charging other than when driving or turning on after jumping with another car, that I can find but I found some comments in the forum....

WHen the VOLT is parked and plugged in for charging the HV BATTERY,
DURING CHARGING, the 12v battery will be charged from the HV battery through the electronics...
AFTER CHARGING HAS COMPLETED, the 12v battery no longer is charged until the HV battery requires charging or the car is turned on to liven the electronics to charge the 12v battery or the car is driven.

THIS SCENARIO fits the circumstances that occurred to My VOLT exactly.

This also makes sense why THE MANUAL says if the VOLT will be sitting for an extended time, say over 20-30 days, you need to remove the neg lead from the 12v battery and connect a battery maintainer -OR- you need to periodically go out and turn on your volt so the electronics will wake up and charge the 12v battery.

AS FOR MY SELECT BUTTON, it appears to be a malfunction that happened to occur at the time of the 12v battery going dead and the dealer will have to take care of it.

Thanks for the comments. Hope this helps someone else.
 

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I have a little more information...
The MANUAL does not comment on the 12v battery as far as charging other than when driving or turning on after jumping with another car, that I can find but I found some comments in the forum....

WHen the VOLT is parked and plugged in for charging the HV BATTERY,
DURING CHARGING, the 12v battery will be charged from the HV battery through the electronics...
AFTER CHARGING HAS COMPLETED, the 12v battery no longer is charged until the HV battery requires charging or the car is turned on to liven the electronics to charge the 12v battery or the car is driven.

THIS SCENARIO fits the circumstances that occurred to My VOLT exactly.
Bear in mind that these exact circumstances are only correct for a couple of years. That's how it behaved for 2011 and 2012. 2013 added a "check 12-v and top it off if it's below 12.5 volts if car is plugged in, for up to 30 days" mode. I think there's even another step beyond this for Gen 2 but I don't remember details so I could be wrong about that one.

This also makes sense why THE MANUAL says if the VOLT will be sitting for an extended time, say over 20-30 days, you need to remove the neg lead from the 12v battery and connect a battery maintainer -OR- you need to periodically go out and turn on your volt so the electronics will wake up and charge the 12v battery.
The manual on that apparently also changes over time, because mine certainly gives no time range of "over 20-30 days".

Extended Storage
Remove the 12‐volt battery black,
negative (−) cable from the battery
to keep the 12‐volt battery from
running down or use a battery trickle
charger.
In addition, to avoid potential
damage to the high voltage battery,
perform the following recommended
steps:
. Store the high voltage battery
with 1/2 charge or less.
. Always store the vehicle in an
environment between −10°C
(14°F) and 30°C (86°F).
. Vehicle storage at extreme
temperatures can cause damage
to the high voltage battery.
Remember to reconnect the 12‐volt
battery when ready to drive the
vehicle.

That's it. That's all it says on the matter. How long "Extended" is is anyone's guess, but I can tell you with some assurance that 10 months ago mine cheerfully went 24 days with no preparation beyond "plugged in", and that's on a 2012 without the 30 monitoring window. I'm gonna hazard that "Extended" for later models than mine that DO monitor the AGM is going to be more like "more than 8 weeks".
 

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"How long "Extended" is is anyone's guess, but I can tell you with some assurance that 10 months ago mine cheerfully went 24 days with no preparation beyond "plugged in"

Left my Gen 2 for 32 days without using or being plugging in......and noticed no issues when used.
 

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If the Volt is on you should have over 100 Amp at 14-15 Volts available to charger the 12 volt battery.

Don't people have Volt meter available any more ?

posted many times : a Power port Volt meter can give you extra information in times of trouble and a early warning of a failing 12 volt battery.

quick example

https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Voltmeter-Protection-Temperature-Fahrenheit/dp/B018I1FD8Q
One caveat: make sure the port volt meter is accurate. Some of these have the voltage divider wrong and exaggerates or hides the true battery voltage. Since you care about 11-13V range for a car battery, I'd hook one up to a bench-top power supply and vary the voltage from 11-13V and see what the port volt meter reads out. If it matches the benchtop by a few millivolts, I'd say it's a good enough indicator for detecting dying 12V battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, Not sure what happened but the "SELECT" button began to work again.
I am not sure but maybe the car reset itself??? I put the keys in a tin in the house and am guessing
that the signal was blocked. When I took them out to go drive the car, the "SELECT" button was once
again active.
I didn't dive into the manual yet to see if I can find anything, but thought I'd make a comment here.
It's still a nice TOY.
 

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That is...odd. A keyfob related fix applied to the SELECT button on the steering wheel?

Well, hopefully this problem does come back. Thank you for returning with a possible fix!
 
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