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The NO CHARGE saga...please help.

6378 Views 49 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  thisadviceisworthless, 
SmjVolt
I have been on and off GM-Volt for several months now in hopes to somehow just find a solution to my woes. I have a 2011 volt that has been struggling to charge for well way too long now. The weird thing is, it will just work for a couple days in a row here and there and I get so pumped that I think it will just work forever again! That is now the case however. Here goes nothing...

Several months ago I started having this problem where I would plug the car in like usual at ANY ANY plugging unit (Home, parking lot, work, anywhere, plus different units) and the car would blink green and later I would come back to find it with no color at all. Now sometimes the on star app lets me know that "there is a charge interuption" so then I would go out and see what is up. Sometimes just a simple unplug and replug would do the trick, however most of the time not. I would plug back in, get orange then hear some clicking in the engine bay and either stay orange or just go out completely.

So I thought it was definitely my 240 charger from Clipper Creek, so I contacted them (one of the best businesses I have every dealt with btw) and we trouble shot over the phone and I was in warranty so even though it didn't seem to be their unit I got a new one. To no avail same problem. The weirdest thing is that it is so random, like now for several weeks it has been very consistent not to be charging at all ever. When my car texts me through the on star and it says completely changed I draw attention to myself because I'm so pumped, this shouldn't be.

I have taken this to a dealer (in the sticks of MN) and have gotten absolutely no where, once my car was completely dead to the point of towing it to their garage over night. The next day was Saturday and the Volt tech was not in. I went to the car and I fixed it myself trouble shooting from this website. So the next time I brought it there I was worried as usual and then they seemed to have gotten it fixed, they said the plugged in their unit to see the codes and such, reprogrammed some things and $150ish later they plugged in to charge and said it did. That very night I plugged it in and the same thing happened no charging...

So I come to all of you, I have been trying to reach ANYONE for too long and finally got a reply from some folks saying start an new Thread, well I hope that helps, there are a ton on here with charging issues. I tried posting there as this is a charging issue, but here I go with a new thread PLEASE HELP:(. I love this car and want it to keep working.:eek::)

The latest trial and ERRRRROOR :mad: is the replacement of the 12v battery in the back. I hooked up a new one and tried to let the computer sense it and such and then plugged in the main charging unit...NOPE same thing.

HELP: the codes I'm reading are the same as many P1e00 and Pod17 :confused:
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SmjVolt
So I shouldn't have my hand in a bucket of water when I'm playing with any orange cord? And yes thank you thank you for the private message I have opened it and I have downloaded it to my computer and I have emailed it to myself you know for some late-night reading! Not at the moment as I was catching up on our thread conversation.
So update as of tonight playing with the fluids a little bit it seems like the larger passenger side fluid was lower than I thought. Now they are all perfect in line with the line on the jug!
So I was able to charge for almost 10 minutes or so before I got the text so at least I got a few more miles today tonight. However I'm pretty sure it is not charging at the moment so onward to the next step?
I have seemed to clear the codes and that does help but yes that same code keeps coming up. So with your explanation where is this piece and what was that last part about tapping to replicate the problem? Wondering if something could be like that and also whoever was talking about something heating up seems to be hitting the nail on the head. So now how to find that nail in the haystack of the Chevrolet Volt!?
Thank you again for all your help please keep any suggestions coming as I will continue to play before have to give up my car to a dealer for I have no clue how long :-(
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SmjVolt
More questions for you all, I was just reading another thread about the coolant level. I know many of you on my thread has said this code is not about that, but? I was reading my same code in their thread and now wondering from you all if me clearing the code with my phone is good enough? I mean when I get the levels to where they should be do I have to take my car in to get the computer cleared and possibly recalibrate? Or could I remove the connections to 12v and would that reset the computer? Tonigtht after driving all over the state I plugged in and got about a half hour or maybe a bit more of charge, so that is great! Then same code comes up.
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SmjVolt
I am sorry that I lost your interest. I just can't seem to figure out why this can't be fixed or why this has not happened to anyone else out there in the World Wide Web as they say? :-( Now I'm at the point of looking if someone might have a honda civic HX from back in the day with a manual transmission. I mean I love the 48/50 mpgs on the generator but come on what is the deal with driving an electric car on petro.
Not really any update, I mean I think I might take some fluid back out of the front passenger side reservoir because that seemed to at least get me some charge. I"m just at a loss, I feel I have tried many things.
Am am resorting to taking in my precious Volt in hopes of seeing it in the next week or so, I just never know what happens to her when she is in. I know this is a difficult car to work with but it has been around for quite some time now...get a clue. I'm sorry I don't drive a v10 in the city moving just myself around. This sucks, I can't believe this is that hard...plug in wires go to charger it works. There has to be something loose because it still will go green for seconds at a time and it worked just the other week...idk

Please is there any more advice out there as to what I'm going to tell them to hopefully have them look up something correctly in their computer? Please let me know of the situation about the sensor to the coolant again, I mean that was supposed to be switched or something, details about that from ANYONE ANYONE? Also any details I can steer them to with the charge port situation form years back, or a situation with the large metal box that was shown here on this thread?

Lastly could anyone answer me the last question I asked the reply before this on. Once you take the neg off the 12v what does that do, I mean do I have to take the car into a dealer to have them really clear the codes? Does my phone ODII clear these codes? Lately when I go into the system with my phone to clear the P1e00 and Pod17 they just pop right back up...any help before 9:00 a.m. tomorrow would be greatly appreciated...don't leave me know community.
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llninja
I think you need to try changing out the charge port. Check the contacts, and check continuity to the charger. That has been a problem for many Gen1 volt owners.

I do worry, I think in an earlier post you mentioned putting distilled water into the radiator. That will ruin it, you need Dexcool 50/50 premix with deionized water.

The fact you are going all over the map trying anything - slow down. Think. There is a logical solution in here somewhere, we just need to peel the onion one layer at a time.
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llninja
SmjVolt said:
Lastly could anyone answer me the last question I asked the reply before this on. Once you take the neg off the 12v what does that do, I mean do I have to take the car into a dealer to have them really clear the codes? Does my phone ODII clear these codes? Lately when I go into the system with my phone to clear the P1e00 and Pod17 they just pop right back up...any help before 9:00 a.m. tomorrow would be greatly appreciated...don't leave me know community.
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Well, codes pop back up because there is a problem in the system. You need to fix that problem for the codes to stop popping up.
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U
His problem is without access to GM diagnostic computers, he is just doing shade tree part replacement to solve a problem, which is next to impossible in this era of "rolling server farms", called cars...:(
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C
SmjVolt said:
I am sorry that I lost your interest. I just can't seem to figure out why this can't be fixed or why this has not happened to anyone else out there in the World Wide Web as they say? :-( Now I'm at the point of looking if someone might have a honda civic HX from back in the day with a manual transmission. I mean I love the 48/50 mpgs on the generator but come on what is the deal with driving an electric car on petro.
Not really any update, I mean I think I might take some fluid back out of the front passenger side reservoir because that seemed to at least get me some charge. I"m just at a loss, I feel I have tried many things.
Am am resorting to taking in my precious Volt in hopes of seeing it in the next week or so, I just never know what happens to her when she is in. I know this is a difficult car to work with but it has been around for quite some time now...get a clue. I'm sorry I don't drive a v10 in the city moving just myself around. This sucks, I can't believe this is that hard...plug in wires go to charger it works. There has to be something loose because it still will go green for seconds at a time and it worked just the other week...idk

Please is there any more advice out there as to what I'm going to tell them to hopefully have them look up something correctly in their computer? Please let me know of the situation about the sensor to the coolant again, I mean that was supposed to be switched or something, details about that from ANYONE ANYONE? Also any details I can steer them to with the charge port situation form years back, or a situation with the large metal box that was shown here on this thread?

Lastly could anyone answer me the last question I asked the reply before this on. Once you take the neg off the 12v what does that do, I mean do I have to take the car into a dealer to have them really clear the codes? Does my phone ODII clear these codes? Lately when I go into the system with my phone to clear the P1e00 and Pod17 they just pop right back up...any help before 9:00 a.m. tomorrow would be greatly appreciated...don't leave me know community.
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We've tried our best, but it seems like you're not listening to a lot of what we're saying. Stop adding coolant, that's not the issue. Did you make sure the Manual Service Disconnect (MSD) inside the armrest it firmly seated, as I've suggested a few times?


A few other people have had the issue you've seen, but it is uncommon. I posted the relevant threads for DTC P0D17. And Mister Dave sent you the repair manual steps to troubleshoot that DTC. Either follow those procedures, or find a good dealer to do it. But, if the dealer does it, expect to pay thousands of dollars.


Honestly, given that the car is a 2011 and has a salvage title, it may not be worth paying to fix it. Just drive it as a non-plugin hybrid.
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CCIE said:
... it may not be worth paying to fix it. Just drive it as a non-plugin hybrid.
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And here is one of the cool things about a Volt. Even with an unresolved significant issue like this one has, it can still be a perfectly good car by normal standards.
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SanCarlosJeff
Upper5Percent said:
"rolling server farms", called cars
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I like that definition.
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SmjVolt
Wow that worked thanks for responding everyone. Yes I have tried everything all have suggested, yes I have checked under the council to the point of wanting to hammer it down (but didn't) because I thought that is all it can be. Quite the responses, thanks...I think. YEs the manual was received and no I have not stayed up all night reading it, but can look again at certain procedures. Okay okay I will stop looking at fluid levels (I just thought...ok I'll stop there, you all know more which is why I'm here). And no I will not give up on this car I love them, I've had three, I should have kept the brand new one but got greedy for a repairable sports car to just look at in the garage, so sew me!

I have an appointment in the morning like I said, I've been in communication with the owner of the chev dealership so he will try to side skit the regular "did you try and plug it in" questions I sometimes get. (Again I'm one of maybe a few volts in a monster mile radius). As for the relevant threads, this is the reason I started this one...all the relavant threads I'm been through and worked through, my problem is seemingly different but seems enough similar that I thought someone might have tried something I hadn't yet. Like holding their finger in their nose, shutting the back passenger side door using only their head...you know some magical remedy like that!


PS Update, you all must have magical powers because after I wrote that reply I just unplugged the car for around 40ish minutes...then went out and plugged it it...green...checked in a few...green...I really don't want to go look again, but might. I'm just waiting for my phone to tell me "interruption" again.
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SmjVolt
Has anyone ever tried putting a sail on a car? Maybe? I live in an open area with a fairly straight road.
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SmjVolt
Hey everyone or anyone that might still be interested. Update is that the dealer saga began this morning after a night of wonderment again...it worked then it didn't then I thought it was to only find no charge in the morning. I had thought great this is the time that it will work when I actually have an appointment the next day.

I took the car in and mainly just said please try to plug in and charge and go from there. Its hard talking with service folks about all the items we have talked about here, they look at me like I know nothing, so I just played that game, I know nothing.

The car went in at 9 am and I heard nothing if they actually start working on it, left it outside, moved my appointment, nothing. Then thanks to my phone I got the great message "charge interruption, car not charging" so at least they were doing something! Still no call or update. So around the time I was to leave town I emailed the boss to see what he wanted me to do with the loaner (another volt, one point to the dealership). Within seconds I got a call from the service manager.

Good and bad news it seems. They actually found the problem, they actually were able to replicate my issue after the car seemingly charged but then stopped. The started eliminating things as you all helped me do and that led them to the little silver box on the aforementioned charger (and pictured, thank you!) There is apparently a plug with 2 wires that was completely corroded to the point of green fuzzy. They were able to unplug, spray, and replug the connector. They then plugged the car in after clearing all the codes and vwalla it seems to be working! So great, but the bad news. It seems as if I need to really fix the car, meaning I need to replace the silver charger box, but mostly the connector which can't be just replace for some reason? So this would all run me $1200 charger + $600 connector + $7/800 labor or there abouts, so this puts me in the OH CRAP THAT IS A LOT category.

So I bring more questions to you all. I asked them how this could happen and they are thinking that was the spot of impact in that corner from the accident (not sure if it was but makes sense) so then the plug might have been disconnected for a time, or anything like that. Here is my confusion they told me multiple times that the plug in question is something called a weather sealed connector? So why the corrosion, so I asked about a cover that might be missing after the repair, but that seems to not be the case.

Can anyone help me to discern if this is a job I can do, and/or can I just get a connector and replace that since the charger seems to be working? Could more corrosion be into the unit, or does the connector pretty much block that from happening? Any advice/help would be much appreciated. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.
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llninja
SmjVolt said:
Hey everyone or anyone that might still be interested. Update is that the dealer saga began this morning after a night of wonderment again...it worked then it didn't then I thought it was to only find no charge in the morning. I had thought great this is the time that it will work when I actually have an appointment the next day.

I took the car in and mainly just said please try to plug in and charge and go from there. Its hard talking with service folks about all the items we have talked about here, they look at me like I know nothing, so I just played that game, I know nothing.

The car went in at 9 am and I heard nothing if they actually start working on it, left it outside, moved my appointment, nothing. Then thanks to my phone I got the great message "charge interruption, car not charging" so at least they were doing something! Still no call or update. So around the time I was to leave town I emailed the boss to see what he wanted me to do with the loaner (another volt, one point to the dealership). Within seconds I got a call from the service manager.

Good and bad news it seems. They actually found the problem, they actually were able to replicate my issue after the car seemingly charged but then stopped. The started eliminating things as you all helped me do and that led them to the little silver box on the aforementioned charger (and pictured, thank you!) There is apparently a plug with 2 wires that was completely corroded to the point of green fuzzy. They were able to unplug, spray, and replug the connector. They then plugged the car in after clearing all the codes and vwalla it seems to be working! So great, but the bad news. It seems as if I need to really fix the car, meaning I need to replace the silver charger box, but mostly the connector which can't be just replace for some reason? So this would all run me $1200 charger + $600 connector + $7/800 labor or there abouts, so this puts me in the OH CRAP THAT IS A LOT category.

So I bring more questions to you all. I asked them how this could happen and they are thinking that was the spot of impact in that corner from the accident (not sure if it was but makes sense) so then the plug might have been disconnected for a time, or anything like that. Here is my confusion they told me multiple times that the plug in question is something called a weather sealed connector? So why the corrosion, so I asked about a cover that might be missing after the repair, but that seems to not be the case.

Can anyone help me to discern if this is a job I can do, and/or can I just get a connector and replace that since the charger seems to be working? Could more corrosion be into the unit, or does the connector pretty much block that from happening? Any advice/help would be much appreciated. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.
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You are asking questions to people over the Internet, where we really need eyes and hands on the parts to make that determination. This is in the bowels of the charging system which I wouldn't touch, let the pros with the right tools and repair manuals fix it. If you don't have enough cash for the fix at the dealership, continue to limp along while saving money until you do. Then consider pulling together an emergency fund of 3 to 6 months of expenses so another incident like this isn't an "Oh crap, this is a lot of money". I've got $40K in such a fund, and it's amazing how when you have such a fund, the peace of mind is here, and these type of things seem to stop happeneing (I've never had to touch my emergency fund, even when an emergency pops up). You got the car with a salvage title, so it had to be heavily discounted, which means you have to expect things like this.
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B
If they already cleaned up the connector and made it work, then why wouldn't you just take the car back and use it as long as it is still working? If it stops working again, then you can decide what to do about it at that time.

As for fixing it yourself after it breaks again, that might be tempting if you are very handy. But this is not like other cars you may have worked on. There are unique risks working around the high voltage system, and from everything I have heard, it is quite likely that the repair will not just be dropping new parts in, but then there may be various reprogramming steps that only a dealer can do. So you will still end up paying them considerable money for that. Then if they can't get it to work, they are not going to take responsibility for the repairs and parts that you did yourself. You may have to make adjustments and then take it back again for more expense. It could become a black hole.

If the dealer repair is $2,600, then I would be asking myself if this is a car that is in the twilight of it's life or one I want to own for a really long time. Considering that even without the charger, the car would still be working fine as a non-plug-in hybrid, I would at least consider just using it in that mode, as one of your possible options.
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As other have said, just pay them for what they did and take the car back. It sounds like they cleaned up the connector so maybe it'll keep working. If not, you know where the issue is now and can deal with it if you like. Definitely not worth putting thousands of dollars into a salvage title car.
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hellsop
SmjVolt said:
It seems as if I need to really fix the car, meaning I need to replace the silver charger box, but mostly the connector which can't be just replace for some reason? So this would all run me $1200 charger + $600 connector + $7/800 labor or there abouts, so this puts me in the OH CRAP THAT IS A LOT category.
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No it isn't. You said earlier that you had 70k on this car, and that means its in the 8/100k Voltec warranty. Go get it fixed, UNDER WARRANTY.
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hellsop said:
No it isn't. You said earlier that you had 70k on this car, and that means its in the 8/100k Voltec warranty. Go get it fixed, UNDER WARRANTY.
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You missed the same thing I did...it is a salvage title...the Warranties do not apply to a SALVAGE titled vehicle...he is essentially driving SCRAP as far as the car manufacturers look at it...(also, insurance companies)...:(
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TSquare
hellsop said:
No it isn't. You said earlier that you had 70k on this car, and that means its in the 8/100k Voltec warranty. Go get it fixed, UNDER WARRANTY.
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I think the OP mentioned somewhere in this thread that it is a salvage title car. No warranty.
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Loboc
I'd drive it until it completely won't move (hybrid mode whilst saving money for the replacement) and then scrap it. It's not worth putting a lot of money into this kind of a car unless it's for the fun of it.
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hellsop
TSquare said:
I think the OP mentioned somewhere in this thread that it is a salvage title car. No warranty.
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Ah. It's seeming that buying a "salvage" Volt, even if its your own, is about as money-effective as buying flood-damaged laptops.
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