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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Switchback LED modification
For me the end result of installing “switchback” LED units in place of the amber incandescent bulbs was more than worth the effort. I really like the overall effect and the additional white light low to the ground gives my Volt some much needed side spill.

PREPARATION:
Before you do ANYTHING, stop and watch this video until you understand what is going on. If you get ham-fisted about this you most certainly can crack or break something that will be expensive to replace.

CarCareKiosk, How to access the Volt Front Turn Signals

You will need the following items
  • Wire nipper
  • T15 Torx
  • 7mm Hex Driver
  • A second pair of hands to hold the panel open (not vital but makes it SO much easier)
  • 7443 Switchback LED (I used two of these)
  • 50 Watt load resistor Kit (I used two of these)
Optional: A pair of slip-lock pliers (I used them to clamp the wire splice things down tight)

Start with the passenger side.
The passenger side is more difficult because once you get the wheel panel open, you get a grand view of the charger which is sitting right smack in the way and you have to figure out how to reach under that to get to the socket. Once you get done cursing the passenger side, the driver side will seem super easy.

Because you will need to get the light socket out far enough to tap a resistor across the “ground” and “flash” wires, you will have to dismount a fair amount of the lower air dam. You will then find the wires to the socket are in a nice plastic sleeve and also electrical taped. I used a side nipper to carefully cut open this tube cover and expose the three wires so that I could tap them later.

Next I removed the stock incandescent bulb and installed the LED module. These modules are orientation specific so if it doesn’t run you probably need to rotate the module 180 degrees and plug it back in. Once you have the LED module plugged in correctly you will probably notice a “hyper-flash” situation caused by the lower resistance of the module. In order to correct this you will need to install a resistor bridge across each of the front lights (one for the left and one for the right).

When attaching the resistor you are concerned with the two OUTSIDE wires and can ignore the center one. The kit allows you to tap the wires without cutting them, you can see this video for reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soyTCsvV3ao
or this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SH3ElHaf28

IMPORTANT: Once you have the resistor spliced in you need to stop and really test the flashing rate. My first splice (the passenger side) went fine but when I did the driver side the little splicing clamp didn’t quite pierce the insulation so even though everything looked fine I got hyper flash until I pulled the clamps and tried again.

Leave the LED emitter hanging out and test it. Run each of the tests for about 3 minutes, long enough to get the resisters nice and hot to make sure they will function correctly. BE CAREFUL, THE RESISTORS GET VERY HOT IN USE (WHEN FLASHING) AND CAN BURN YOU OR MELT PLASTIC!
• Test it just as a turn signal
• Test it as a marker light and then switching to a turn signal
• Test it as a 4 way flasher both with headlights on and off

If you do not do a complete test before you put it all back together and button things up you will probably regret it and you’ll get to pull things apart again. You have been fairly warned.

Once you are sure the lights are working right, plug them back into place AND TEST THEM AGAIN BEFORE YOU BUTTON UP THE WHEEL WELLS. Again everything worked fine for me until I put the drivers side socket back in place whereupon I must have bumped something loose and had to re-do the resister clamp –again- before “hyper-flash” would stop.

I arranged my resistors via zip-ties on the wires so that the metal heat sink part just hangs free in mid-air with nothing touching the metal heat sink. THESE RESISTORS GET VERY HOT IN USE AND WILL MELT PLASTIC (especially if you leave your 4 way flashers on for an extended period) you MUST be careful about where you mount/hang them.

Okay that's it. Button it back up and go for a drive!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
NOTE: The above instructions are a first draft. If anyone finds an error or omission please let me know and I'll correct it as soon as I can.
 

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I installed V3 Triton 6k switchbacks... plug-n-play, no cutting of wires. My resistors had adhesive and I stuck them to the wheel wells. Everything is reversible, should I decide I want a newer Volt.
 

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Adding led turn signal resistor loads

The wiring harness that leads to the left side (driver side) turn signal has a 5 wire connector. This connector houses both sides turn signal wiring. Since the left side is easier to get to and change the turn signal bulb, i installed both 6ohm 50W resistors on this harness. Someone could make an adapter to this connector adding these resistors as a plug-in. The turn signal wires are in line with the black ground wire in the connector. The connector/harness houses - ground, right turn, right park lamp, left turn, left park lamp. Good luck
 

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Do you have any additional leads for this mod? The link lead to a dead-end. This is exactly what I am looking for.

Cheers
Here's a better link for the VLEDs: http://www.vleds.com/shop-application/turn-signals-front/turn-signals-front-7443/turn-signals-front-7443-standard/v6-triton-kit-a-7443.html

The VLED difference means with parking lights on and cheap switchbacks, when you turn on your turn signal, you'll get an annoying white/amber/white/amber. With VLED, you'll get just flashing amber for the turn. After turning the white color returns.

Just make sure you use the enclosed dilectric grease for all connections. Their support is great.
 

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I have to say, I was one to do the HID in the projectors early on with much success, but have only recently did the DRL on with headlights diode mod and *finally* installed LED switchbacks into the Volt, now that warmer weather allowed. I had a few comments already during the night, along the lines of "thats a nice car", while driving by people. The car being so quiet its easy to overhear. Man it really does make the car look slick at night, you'd think it was newer MY than it is!
 
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