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5,595 Posts
Maybe a prematurely failed shock or two? If so it is easily diagnosed.
Suspension or tire noise driving on rough pavement
I bought a used 2012 volt with 60k miles on it. On the test drive I didn't notice strange noises from the suspension probably because the road wasn't really rough. I can only hear the noise going about 20-40 mph on really rough pavement. On the freeway everything is fine. Going over potholes are fine too, just when the road gets very jittery.
I looked over all the rattling posts and tried them. I adjusted my hatch, adjusted the 12v battery strap, removed the trunk battery cover/flooring then drove around and it still had the noise. The noise is getting annoying because it sounds like the car is going to fall apart.
Here is a video of the noise. http://vimeo.com/104868686
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I looked over all the rattling posts and tried them. I adjusted my hatch, adjusted the 12v battery strap, removed the trunk battery cover/flooring then drove around and it still had the noise. The noise is getting annoying because it sounds like the car is going to fall apart.
Here is a video of the noise. http://vimeo.com/104868686
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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307 Posts
Maybe your favorite tire/suspension store could diagnose. Sorry to see the roads are as bad in the southland as they are in the bay area.
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I just had pep boys take a look at it and they said everything was normal. They test drove it, heard the noise, and lifted it up to take a look. I'm going to try the dealer next.
Just curious if anyone on the forums had a similar issue before.
Just curious if anyone on the forums had a similar issue before.
Too hard to tell from the video. Any clues as to which direction the sound was coming from? If it is one of the corners it could be any suspension component, even a spring. Since the vehicle is a 2013, unless you have tons of miles on it, maybe it's still under warrantee.
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It's out of warranty because I have 60k miles on it.
It sounds like its coming from the front, but I can't pinpoint if it's from the left or right.
It sounds like its coming from the front, but I can't pinpoint if it's from the left or right.
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5,595 Posts
You sure it is out of warranty? Most certified pre-owned vehicles come with a basic 5,000 mile warranty or similar, so if you have issues when buying initially, they will cover it.
Example 2011 Volt for sale with 60,282 miles: http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/605807359/overview/
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1,580 Posts
My 2012 Volt has had the same issue since new. The knocking noise is coming from all sides. In addition I have scraping sounds coming from the back. Sounds like a beaten up NYC taxi cab. Two different Chevy dealerships on multiple tries and now a Cadillac dealership have been unable to fix it, warranty or not. Various shocks and mounts have been replaced to no avail. There is even a service bulletin on this issue created in honor of my rattling Volt: PI0645
For more info: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...(with-potential-caues-and-possible-solutions)
For more info: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...(with-potential-caues-and-possible-solutions)
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Since they created a service bulletin for your rattling, does it mean it was eventually fixed?
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It fixed a particular type of popping sound, I think, but the knocking that occurs on uneven pavement as you describe it is still there. If you take it in for service it may be worth mentioning the service bulletins concerning the suspension.
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1,415 Posts
My 12 has made similar noises on certain broken pavements since new at moderate speeds. . Dealer could not find anything wrong. I lowerered tire pressure from 40+ to 35 and the sound subsided. It probably had as much to do with hearing normal suspension noises because the car is silent than anything. My Corvette has stiff run flats and is noisy, but the presence of engine noise, etc. masks a similar noise from the tar strips.
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I got under the car and started tapping around to find anything loose. The front air dam was loose at the left and right corners. The plastic bolts were holding it in still, but wasn't tight enough to secure it. I used some weather stripping to stuff between the plastic so it wouldn't rattle. It helped quite a bit. Still some noise, but so much better. It doesn't feel like the car is going to fall apart anymore. Maybe I should just replace the air dam with a new one.
I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change and ask them about it also. Thanks bentbiker!
I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for an oil change and ask them about it also. Thanks bentbiker!
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3,598 Posts
Hello silvervolt2012,
I'm sorry you're experiencing that noise with your Volt. I highly encourage you to take it to the dealership to have it looked at by a GM Certified Technician. Additionally, it would not hurt to contact your Volt Advisor and get them up to speed with your vehicle concerns. If you want to shoot me a PM with your VIN I can verify your warranty end dates.
Katie O.
Chevrolet Customer Care
You're welcome. Let us know what the dealer suggests to tighten things up. The important thing is that you now Know it's nothing dangerous.
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3,598 Posts
Hello silvervolt2012,
Oops! That filled up faster than expected. I've just cleared it out. Go ahead and try it again. Sorry about that.
Katie O.
Chevrolet Customer Care
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The car is at the dealer (Sierra Chevrolet) since 7 am this morning. I also told them to do TSB 5734 for pulsating brakes at a stop. They just told me ALL 4 of my rotors are warped and there is no rattling noise. I would need to machine all my rotors for $400 some dollars and I might as well replace the pads (50% worn) for a grand total of $600 while they're at it.
Of course I'm not going to get it done. What do you guys think? Pepboys said everything is fine.
If they are going to make me pay for the diagnostic, I'm going to have to do a charge back on my credit card.
Of course I'm not going to get it done. What do you guys think? Pepboys said everything is fine.
If they are going to make me pay for the diagnostic, I'm going to have to do a charge back on my credit card.
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10,056 Posts
"Raybestos Brake Tech School, Part One: Rotors Don't Warp
Written by PFM Staff
Brake rotors do not warp from heat, even when driven by the most aggressive traffic officer. Instead, they wear unevenly. This uneven wear is caused by the brake pads themselves as they intermittently touch an out-of-true rotor. The root cause of the uneven wear is one of two things: either the rotor was installed out-of-true with the hub, or the tire was improperly torqued to the hub during the last tire change.
All of this is important for fleet managers because their vehicles have the tires removed frequently and the pads and rotors replaced frequently. You won’t solve a problem caused by wear if you treat it as a problem caused by heat. Instead, fix the rotor installation or wheel lug nut torquing.
The problem of pedal vibration, incorrectly called rotor warp, occurs 3,000 to 5,000 miles after the brake or tire change. Because it is caused by uneven rotor wear, not the rotor warping like a potato chip from heat, you can’t solve this wear problem by better control of the heat, i.e., by the use of specially processed rotors or drilled and slotted rotors. Instead, you solve the wear problem by fixing the shortcuts in rotor installation or the improper lug nut tightening.
By taking a few steps, the fleet manager can easily, quickly and permanently fix the pedal pulsation problem. First, for each rotor change, verify the runout of the rotor, and then do one or two quick things to have it less than 0.002 inch, which is the OE spec for most vehicles. Two, for each tire and wheel change or rotation, torque the lugs in a star pattern using either a torque wrench or torque stick. Those two steps will virtually eliminate premature rotor wear, period.
Think about it this way: What are your conservative officers doing to their cars to “warp” the brake rotors in less than 5,000 miles? They don’t get the brakes warm (350 F), let alone patrol-hot (600 F), and never pursuit-hot (850 F). Yet their rotors are warping? No. They are not warping. They are unevenly wearing during the times of zero brake pedal pressure, and your officers are not doing anything to either prevent it or cause it. "
Did they happen to mention what the runout on those rotors was?
Written by PFM Staff
Brake rotors do not warp from heat, even when driven by the most aggressive traffic officer. Instead, they wear unevenly. This uneven wear is caused by the brake pads themselves as they intermittently touch an out-of-true rotor. The root cause of the uneven wear is one of two things: either the rotor was installed out-of-true with the hub, or the tire was improperly torqued to the hub during the last tire change.
All of this is important for fleet managers because their vehicles have the tires removed frequently and the pads and rotors replaced frequently. You won’t solve a problem caused by wear if you treat it as a problem caused by heat. Instead, fix the rotor installation or wheel lug nut torquing.
The problem of pedal vibration, incorrectly called rotor warp, occurs 3,000 to 5,000 miles after the brake or tire change. Because it is caused by uneven rotor wear, not the rotor warping like a potato chip from heat, you can’t solve this wear problem by better control of the heat, i.e., by the use of specially processed rotors or drilled and slotted rotors. Instead, you solve the wear problem by fixing the shortcuts in rotor installation or the improper lug nut tightening.
By taking a few steps, the fleet manager can easily, quickly and permanently fix the pedal pulsation problem. First, for each rotor change, verify the runout of the rotor, and then do one or two quick things to have it less than 0.002 inch, which is the OE spec for most vehicles. Two, for each tire and wheel change or rotation, torque the lugs in a star pattern using either a torque wrench or torque stick. Those two steps will virtually eliminate premature rotor wear, period.
Think about it this way: What are your conservative officers doing to their cars to “warp” the brake rotors in less than 5,000 miles? They don’t get the brakes warm (350 F), let alone patrol-hot (600 F), and never pursuit-hot (850 F). Yet their rotors are warping? No. They are not warping. They are unevenly wearing during the times of zero brake pedal pressure, and your officers are not doing anything to either prevent it or cause it. "
Did they happen to mention what the runout on those rotors was?
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