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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello someone...if you could help, that would be amazing of you. I have spent a few hours searching these forums but not found anything relevant.

I have a (16 jun 2011, PN 1007-0016 Rev 2.7) clipper creek L1 EVSE, but one day it just stopped working. It has been fine for almost 8 years exactly on the dot. I have attached some images of how it looks when I opened it up.

Symptoms: None of the two indicator lights light up. I have run tests to ensure i do not have a problem with the car (eg SAE J1772 port) or the outlet—those work fine separately with other things. When I open it up, I do smell that smell of electricity like somethings blown.

Any ideas?
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(I tried to follow this youtube video's advice, so I bought a fuse holder and bunch of fuses but don’t see a fuse I can switch out, like with the other Chevy L1 evse with the orange cable that this guy is using in his video.)
 

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other then looking under the PCB and plugging and un plugging the internals cable and looking for loose wires or over heating sign - I can't help

but one picture shows the words " unless protected by a K5 fuse " ?? but may be a red herring

BUT thanks for posting the high res picture - in the DIY home made EVSE days here we did not have good close up of clipper creek parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Cord for the quick reply! I am new to this, can you elaborate on how to

1. looking under the PCB (what is the PCB)?
2. plugging and un plugging the internals cable (which are the internals cable)?
3. What are over heating signs?
 

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1. Printed Circuit Board, the flat piece with all of the electronic parts soldered to it.
2. The only internal connector I see is on the far right side of your second picture, with the brown and black wires attached. You could try unplugging it and plugging it back in. There is probably a little tab that must be pressed in to release the connector.
3. Normally signs of overheating is a small black burn mark where a wire goes into the PCB or where one of the electronic parts is soldered to the PCB. I don’t see any obvious signs of overheating or failed parts in the pictures.

More likely that one of the parts simply failed. No real way to know which one. If it still doesn’t work after putting it back together, you will probably have to bite the bullet and buy a new EVSE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. Printed Circuit Board, the flat piece with all of the electronic parts soldered to it.
thanks 16falcon! You guys are awesome. What am I looking for underneath the PCB though, then? And if I do see whatever it is, how do I fix it?

Yeah that’s good to know if there isn’t a DIY solution — even for dealers, I feel like they don’t really know how to just switch out a single part and they just have to teplace a whole new one.
 

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I'm with 16Falcon. Unplug connector J14 and plug it back in. If that doesn't do it, go get a replacement.

Everything looks good - no scorch marks, blown caps, or anything obvious. If I were betting, I'd put my money on one of those triacs, but who knows. Even if you could find the failed component you never know what might have been taken out downstream.

Have you visually checked to make sure the pins in the J1172 plug are in the proper positions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm with 16Falcon. Unplug connector J14 and plug it back in.

Have you visually checked to make sure the pins in the J1172 plug are in the proper positions?
Thanks Saltsamn. OK yeah I lifted the tab on that J14 internal connector but it didn't slide that easily, so i wiggled it and got it maybe 80% of the way out, then was hesitant to unplug it in case I couldn't plug it back in as easily. Is it supposed to be wiggled, or should it be sliding easily? Guess I have nothing to lose so might as well wiggle it out.

I think that the pins on the J1172 interface are in the propr position...I don't really have a point of reference to what the proper positoin looks like, though. Maybe you can tell from this picture. Rest assured, the J1172 slots into the car's port just fine. the car charges fine when I plug it into a public charger.
Finger Tartan Gas Electric blue Circle
 

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As @supchrgamx said, your lock is broken. I don't see any other readily identifiable issues in the photos. You should order a replacement. There are lots of inexpensive options on eBay.

The unit was manufactured in 2013, not 2011, as seen on the sticker inside. Just trivia, which changes nothing.
 

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I do smell that smell of electricity like somethings blown
1. looking under the PCB (what is the PCB)?
2. plugging and un plugging the internals cable (which are the internals cable)?
3. What are over heating signs?
What am I looking for underneath the PCB though, then? And if I do see whatever it is, how do I fix it?
If there was an internal fuse, that would be about the only thing you could replace on your own. I did not see one, so you are out of luck. Beyond that, based on the first statement, it would appear that the magic smoke has been released from the unit. Unless you are able to capture all of the magic smoke and put it back into the box, the unit is cooked and will need replaced.
 

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The “magic smoke”, lol. My wife is an electrical engineer (digital electronics), she has never been able to capture all of the magic smoke and get it back into a piece of equipment.

Sarcasm above……once something burns up and makes “smell of electricity like something’s blown” (engineers jokingly refer to that as the magic smoke), the piece of equipment is usually in need of replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok thanks everyone! :)

Will buy a replacement unit, what have you guys heard/know about these china brands, do they work well? Feedback from sellers looks good enough, Maybe they're also clipper creek...e.g.

1. Seller "mapoo" L1 EVSE
2. DUOSIDA brand L1 EVSE

actually guess i should start another thread if i search forums & don't find the info i need, since this is a different topic huh
 

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the first one appears to be a level 1 evse (max about 1.6kW) which may be a slight improvement over the stock evse.
the second one appears to have a European style plug, so make sure you get one that works in your location.

If charging time is important to you, consider getting a level 2 evse (i.e. 240V). You will likely need to have a new breaker/wiring/outlet added to your charging location.

I have seen that people have had good luck with Duosida. I bought a Megear Level 2 and am happy with it (4 months)
 

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Yeah, it is, but that should be separate, i should be able to push it in all the way and test whether the EVSE is functioning right
Not necessarily. The latch also operates a switch to stop all current flow during insertion and extraction. If the latch mechanism is broken in such a way that it is locked in a position where that switch is in the open position, everything is dead.

There is a company that will repair your EVSE: REPAIRS & UPGRADES , but if you have access to a 240V outlet, it probably makes more sense to apply the money to a new L2 EVSE.
 

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I hope you are able to repair your EVSE. However if you aren't, and are going to trash it, maybe you would be willing to do me a solid? My neutral pin connector went bad, maybe you would be willing to open up the the J1772 plug and salvage the parts I need? Or chop off the whole J1772 plug? Feel free to PM me what your time and postage cost would be to get it to 48033.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I ended up getting it fixed with EV Doctor REPAIRS & UPGRADES; happened to find him on eBay & looks like Bentbiker knows him too. Super nice guy who was very reasonable. Turns out it was the 5V regulator, and in his opinoin it was just bad luck that it failed, probably not anything I could try and prevent in the future. Apparently he hasn't seen many of them fail.

Thanks everyone! Very much appreciate all your time and insights - truly. Now I just gotta search the forums for why there's a sound coming from the hood of what seems like water sloshing around, when I start up the car...never really heard that before when first pressing the power button on my car, wonder whether only driving it once every few weeks due to the pandemic past 1.5 yrs has finally caused it some issues...
 

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Just a long shot, but you’re not just hearing the startup audio are you? If it was turned down in the past, you might not have noticed it.
 
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