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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2014 Volt, I've had it for a few months now. I bought it to replace my 2010 HHR that got totaled. So far I really like the volt, but I feel like the audio is severely lacking. I have a base model volt, and I plan to make some changes to the audio system to improve it, as limited as the ability to do so is. There really isn't much information available about the base model Volt's audio system here, it seems that most people on here have Premium Volts. I know I can't replace the receiver, as it is part of the CAN, but I can at least replace the paper speakers with something more substantial, and I would like to add a low power amp and sub to give the audio more range. As I understand it, the Bose system used in the premium Volt is run through an amp that is rated for ~ 150 watts, with that in mind it is probably safe to say that a 200 watts class D isn't asking too much from the volt, please correct me if I am wrong. My big concern is the audio output from the receiver, and into the amp. I'm used using the low level outputs from after market receivers, and I'm not sure how to proceed with adding an amp to a system that does not have low level outputs. Does anyone have any advice or recommendations on how to do this?
 

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Someone on here made a youtube video of adding an amp and additional subwoofer to a Volt that had the Bose system. He spliced into the wires leading into the Bose amplifier and then used a line output converter so he could have the signal on RCA cables.

That would be your best bet, but the question is if the wiring that leads to where the Bose amplifier would be is even there. And if it is there, does it have an audio signal.

Worst case you could splice into the wires going to one of the speakers and hook up your line output converter there.
 

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I'm in the process of replacing all of the speakers with Infinity (62.11i 6.5" and 1031T tweeters) and adding an Infinity Basslink SM to the trunk space where the Bose subwoofer would normally live.



I'm planning on tapping the rear door speaker wires and running those to the Basslink, which will directly take a speaker-level signal. Since the 12V battery is right there, wiring the power will be easy, and the Basslink has an auto-on feature when it detects audio, so I don't have to run a remote turn-on wire. Should be a fairly simple install. Not sure how it will sound in that location, so that's my biggest concern at this point.

I've already replaced the tweeters and the front door speakers, and the change is pretty dramatic. I didn't bother running a separate amplifier, as the Kappas are pretty efficient and the head-unit seems to have enough juice to drive them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm in the process of replacing all of the speakers with Infinity (62.11i 6.5" and 1031T tweeters) and adding an Infinity Basslink SM to the trunk space where the Bose subwoofer would normally live.



I'm planning on tapping the rear door speaker wires and running those to the Basslink, which will directly take a speaker-level signal. Since the 12V battery is right there, wiring the power will be easy, and the Basslink has an auto-on feature when it detects audio, so I don't have to run a remote turn-on wire. Should be a fairly simple install. Not sure how it will sound in that location, so that's my biggest concern at this point.

I've already replaced the tweeters and the front door speakers, and the change is pretty dramatic. I didn't bother running a separate amplifier, as the Kappas are pretty efficient and the head-unit seems to have enough juice to drive them.
Have you completed this? This is pretty much what I am planning on doing now, splicing into the rear speaker wires for high level input to my amp, but now I am trying to figure out the best way to get to the factory speaker cables to splice into them.
 

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Have you completed this? This is pretty much what I am planning on doing now, splicing into the rear speaker wires for high level input to my amp, but now I am trying to figure out the best way to get to the factory speaker cables to splice into them.
Yes, I've been running this system for a few months. I tapped into the wires behind the trim near the bottom of the B-Pillar, before the wires go into the door. There's a connector mounted to the frame there.
 
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