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Snow Tires Quote for 2013 Chevy Volt (Nokian)

11K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  kfetty 
#1 ·
Hi all,
I know it's early but since I got the hail damage ($3000) fixed at my local autobody and repair shop, I decided to get a quote for snow tires. The shop is almost walkable from my home and they offered to store a set of tires for each season if we go forward. I told the manager that this forum suggests steel wheels for snow tires (if you can afford them) and I also brought up the issue of the tire pressure readings. I sent him an email requesting the quote and he came back with the quote (almost $2,000) along with very detailed answers to my two questions: 1) why steel tires and 2) I needed assurance that my tire pressure readings would be accurate. Here is his comprehensive reply, and I thought I would post it in its entirety for those that may have similar questions.

I would also appreciate hearing your thoughts on the quote cost and choice of tires. I like to shop locally and won't be ordering them via an online discount store and then carrying them in for installation. This guy is great -- did a great job on two autobody jobs and loves our Volt almost as much as we do. He teaches a DVM driving training class at the local high school and the school bought a Volt for that course. So we have the only 2 Volts ever seen around here!

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Below is the text of the email.
Karen

Karen & Pat,

Good morning, and thank you for the compliments. We work hard to achieve
that level of satisfaction every day, with all of our customers. In an
effort to continue that appreciation, I've put together an entire quote for
a complete winter traction package. But first, I feel it would be best to
answer your questions, and it will explain the items on the quote as well.

Making the decision to purchase a separate set of wheels that are dedicated
for winter use is a great idea in many ways. The most obvious reasons are
ease of installation and to maintain the condition of the original equipment
aluminum wheels. Having winter tires mounted on their own wheels makes
preparing your car for winter that much easier. If you have swapped from
tire-to-tire on the same wheel in years past, you understand the waiting
that takes place at the shop. This also invites the opportunity for damage
to the wheel as it is handled several times. Steel wheels are also more
resistant to the heavy corrosion that occurs during winter driving. The most
difficult area to clean is the tight area between the tire and the wheel,
where the seal is made. In areas of heavy salt use, the salt decays the
clear coat on the wheel, and later the wheel itself, making a good tire seal
difficult when you switch back to summer tires. This is typically remedied
by scuffing the wheel to reveal a clean edge for adequate tire sealing.
After just a few seasons, this begins to wear away at the wheel, often times
requiring replacement. Swapping from tire-to-tire also warrants the need to
balance the tire/wheel assembly. Conventional hammer-on weights are designed
to dig into the rim of the wheel to remain attached. This easily gouges the
paint on the wheel, inducing salt corrosion. Stick on weights apply to the
inside of the wheel for better balancing and also provide a cleaner look.
Leaving your original wheels for non-winter use will allow you to keep your
Volt looking great during the warm seasons.

The second question you had was regarding the tire pressure monitors. The
Chevy Volt uses a system that includes a pressure sensor at each wheel. As
we have experienced often times in the past, these sensors are not re-usable
when attempting to swap them from wheel-to-wheel. My recommendation is to
use a new, separate set of sensors for the winter wheels. While this may
increase the initial price of a winter tire package, but remember this is a
one-time cost. These sensors are affixed to the wheel via the valve stem,
and stay with the wheel. If you should choose not purchase a set of sensors
upon the decision of separate winter wheels, a warning indicator will be
illuminated on your dash. While this poses no real threat to the car, this
simply means you will have to manually check the tire's pressure. New
sensors also require recalibration which we can take care of at no extra
cost, and takes just a couple minutes to verify.

The tire vendor we deal with that sells Nokian brand tires recommends the
model "WRG3", which is engineered for Hybrid cars as it offers low rolling
resistance to ensure expected fuel mileage. The same tire retailer also
offers 17" steel wheels for the Chevy Volt, and are as easily available. The
tire pressure sensors would be direct from General Motors, as some
aftermarket sensors have communication issues with the on-board computers,
and the outcome is similar to that of no sensors in place, giving you
warnings on your dash, and is money wasted. Below is a list of the items,
their costs, and necessary procedures and costs, with all taxes included.

4 Nokian WRG3 Tires-----$203.99 ea.
4 17"x7" Steel Wheels----$148.75 ea.
4 GM TPMS Sensors------$69.94 ea.
4 Tire Mount & Balance--$10.00 ea.
4 NYS Tire Disposal Fee---$2.50 ea.
-------------------------------------------
Sub Total $1740.72
Tax $139.25
Total $1879.97
 
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#2 ·
Seems like fair pricing to me. I'm not sure what the disposal fee is for?

Just so you are aware, I do not have a separate set of tires for the winter months. This past winter we had quite a bit of snow and I did drive my Volt during a snow storm and the Volt handled it very well. Actually better than I had hoped.
 
#3 ·
Wow, with just the email, I want to buy a set of winter tires!!! I work in the custormer service field and this guy sounds legit and very knowledgeable and he sounds liek he does care about the people he services. Price wise I have not bought any snow tires in years, use to have some on my truck when driving up to the snow, so I can't answer that part. Other than that I would buy tires from this guy any day of the year!!!
 
#4 ·
David,
Agreed on possibly not needing snow tires. However, ice might be the only reason around here to get them as between 4 - 7 pm black ice is rampant. The way I look at it -- it's like having 2 pairs of shoes and you alternate. They both last longer this way :).
Thanks for your help.
Karen
 
#6 ·
Understood, and I'm not trying to tell you that you shouldn't get them. Who knows...maybe I might decide to get a set before next winter. ;)
 
#5 ·
Correct explanation.

Few notes:
- if you have heavy snow in winter and plan to swap the tires in autumn/spring cycle I would suggest Hakkapeliitta R2 instead. WRG3 is "all-year" tire with less traction in winter. Basically swapping WRG3 each autumn might work best for occasional snow/ice conditions. Best bang for the buck from Nokia would be Hakkapeliitta 7/8 but it comes with stubs and may not be legal in some places. (WRG3 would not be legal in Finland as Winter tire)
- 2000$ sounds reasonable. Remember that you can use the steel rims for 20+ years easily. If your next car comes with same bolt split and size, just swap to that.
- I would recommend a set of 16" rims with higher profile tire. Better to drive in winter, lower noise, cheaper. Drawback is higher speed meter difference from actual speed.
- Remember to swap the winter tires after 3-5 year, even if you do not drive much with them. Easiest way to use them to end is to drive one summer after their end of life time and then replace them.

BTW: Stubs vs non-stubs is a question of noise vs safety. Last winter I was not able to stop my volt to an intersection with my blizzak non-stub tires and would have avoided the situation with stub-tires easily. Luckily no other cars were there while I crossed the road and I did not need to test other safety systems of Volt. If you want max safety and stubs ar legally allowed, I would recommend those. (And yes, I drive with non-stubs due to noise reduction :)
 
#16 ·
EU benefits from the Gulf stream current. Cannot use latitude as a meaningful guide to temps or weather.

Hudson NY can get plenty of snow and ICE, only the mountains of Spain would come even close.
The real advantage of studs is they do work on ICE, good snow tires can help but not even close to studs.
But the noise is a real annoyance.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Before you go that route check with www.tirerack.com for mounted snow tires with a TPMS installed...my wife had a set of studded snow tires, not Nokian, but worked well for the five winters she used them, made up fo her 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid that was much cheaper than that...And the wheels she chose looked similar to the original alloys that came with the car...:)
 
#10 ·
That seems reasonable.

I actually went to tirerack and took their recommended package a year and change ago - about $1200 with shipping then, and then another $110 for a tool to program the tire sensors every time I switch. Tirerack's recommendation included 16" painted alloy wheels. The comments about the benefits of steel wheels are correct, but in this case, I felt that the $85 alloy wheels could be replaced it corrosion became an issue (which is less likely since they are painted,) and in the mean time, the lower weight is a benefit.

The Volt can (barely) take most 16" wheels (Mine have about an eighth inch of clearance on the calipers, and it lets them put deeper sidewalls on - my tires are Michelin Xi2 Ice in 215/60R16, vs the OEM 215/55R17s - within one or two revolutions per mile, so no adjustments needed.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Steel? I don't think anyone here recommends them. I only know of one or two that put steel rims on. Everyone else went aluminum alloy, including me (from tirerack.com). They were delivered mounted, balanced, with TPMS. Ready to go and for a lot less than $1800 you are being quoted.

Snow tires on alloy wheels will cut about 5 miles off your battery range. Steel rims may cut even more due to weight and don't look as nice. And after a few years they can be a rusty mess.

My winter wheels:

Tire Alloy wheel Automotive tire Wheel Rim
 
#15 ·
That quote is high by $500.00 based on what I paid for mine.

The steel wheels are too expensive - the alloy's are about $100/each. The tires are also expensive

Tirerack's "recommended" setup is $1200 including shipping. I got mine at my local tire shop, where I've been doing business for 20+ years and trust implicitly, for $1200. I got 16" Blizzaks on alloy wheels with TMPSs. Cost me in range, so if you can get the Hakkapeliitta R2 for about the same price, your range hit won't be as much as mine. I'd even pay an extra $50/tire for them, but not much more.
 
#17 ·
I have snow tires and just use the stock wheel and sensor. Costco charges $50 for a changeout each season, which includes rotate and balance.

Nokian Hakkapeliitta 7 or R for sure, they are available with or without studs. I also like the Michelin X-ice and Bridgestone Blizzak.

Right now you can get a set of Michelin X-Ice for about $500. It's LRR and actually has a treadlife warranty!

Much cheaper, and honestly, almost as good as the Nokian.

Nate
 
#18 · (Edited)
(Correction after writing below post -- I spoke too fast. The Nokian WRG2 is the stellar review -- the tires I was quoted are Nokian WRG3 and this review by the same guy is not good -- especially on ice/snow -- so definitely back to the driving board or I'll try and get the WRG2's. Here is the review on the WRG3's:

http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/fr/Review-Nokian-Wrg3-Asymmetric.htm)


Hi all,

Wow! Lots of different perspectives on snow tires in early June! Thank you all so much for your thoughtful replies.

Here is a review I easily found by searching on the brand my shop recommended:

http://tires.about.com/od/Tire_Reviews/fr/Nokian-Wr-G2-All-Season-Tires.htm

I'm guessing he chose this for me because we talked about the black ice problem. My previous car (2006 Prius) had on Goodyear Integrity snow tires and I was unable to turn into my street - I had to go right past it and turn around in a parking lot a mile down the road. The next day the front page of the paper had an article about the number of accidents during that period -- lots. So I'm reacting to the fact that the dedicated snow tires were great in the snow but not so good on that ice.

I will look at some alternatives and discuss alloy vs steel etc. I realize I may be paying top dollar for whatever I choose but I know I'll get great service and he'll stand behind whatever I get. A lot of independent stores have gone out of business near me -- I got all my flooring and window treatments at a nearby place that had been there 25 years (they were fantastic and so great to work with) and one day they were closed permanently. I got in touch with a couple of the people who worked there and it wasn't even the big Lowe's down the street that beat them on price, just a steady fall off in business -- even Lowe's couldn't keep their independent installers busy.

Lots to think about and thanks all for your helpful information.

Best,
Karen
 
#19 ·
I install and recommend snow tires for many people. The quote you received is not bad but higher than I would have looked at. You can definitely get things a little less expensive from TireRack, but that also means you are on your own or pay someone to install them on the car. For some people it's worthwhile to use a local shop for all of this as you get to return to the local shop with any questions or problems. $2000 seems high at first, and that sounds pricey for steel wheels, but it's not highway robbery either.

Personally I would choose a 17" wheel/tire combo so I could use one of the snow tires in an emergency/blowout/spare situation, or keep your OE wheels, put your snow tires on them and get some 'nice' wheels for the summer. Or like somebody above mentioned, just have them change the tires each season. Your OE wheels probably aren't going to last forever anyway.

Also steel wheels are heavier than the OE wheels - part of the fuel savings/economy is keeping the rolling mass as low as possible. I look for lightweight wheels for the Volt (even though they are not quite as 'tough' as steelies).
 
#20 ·
They're not your daddy's snow tires anymore. They're "winter tires" with extra siping to help handle ice. No tires, studded tires included, make you have the same traction on glare ice as you would have on dry pavement.

How many of these ice incidents do you have in an average winter or even a harsh winter. We have winter here, and my biggest concern is one of these incidents occurring prior to or after I swap in or out the winter tires. They won't help sitting in your garage.
 
#21 ·
Hi All,

Just wanted to post what the manager replied when I asked about steel vs alloy and also for a quote of the Nokian WRG3 and the Hakka R2's, both very well reviewed. They are cheaper so I will likely choose one of those models and stay away from the WRG3 which are new and are not as well reviewed. I will digest the steel vs alloy information but I'm leaning toward ugly and lasts forever (steel) and not so worried about the rust issue. My major problem around here is black ice. With so many two-lane country roads you really have few options if you can't grip on ice - forward collision, hit oncoming traffic or roll down an embankment. So with two sets of tires (the pros of that are well articulated in this thread) you just alternate and two sets last longer than one.

Thanks again for all the comments on this sunny beautiful day! See below for his response.

Karen

Karen & Pat,

The older WRG2 models are still available from our vendor, and come in at a
lower price than the newer WRG3's. The Hakkapelitta R2's are also available
as well. I'll put together a short quote at the bottom, but again I 'd like
to answer your questions first as they will help you choose a direction.

The debate of aluminum vs. steel wheels is as old as cars themselves. While
aluminum wheels are easier to manufacture and shape, and most generally look
better, steel wheels are far more durable. While all metals decompose, or
"rust" or "corrode", there are measures taken to prevent, or slow down the
rust process of steel wheels. Steel wheels come painted in high-build
(usually semi-gloss), black paint to give a deep looking background when
plastic covers are applied, and to seal out atmospheric contaminants that
create rust. After many years, physical wear, and most notably brake dust,
the paint can succumb to damage and reveal a bare surface, and that will
create rust. Just a regular wash to remove dust and salt, and other road
grime, they can maintain their finish years.

Aluminum wheels do not rust, rather they corrode and oxidize much quicker.
Unlike steel where it's rust occurs only on the surface, aluminum is very
porous and it's corrosion occurs throughout the metal. This makes the
aluminum corrosion appear to be "puffy", or built up. It's much more
noticeable and more significant. Perhaps the most unforeseen area of decay
on an aluminum wheel is the flange, or flat surface at the back of the wheel
that sits flush with the brakes. This can transfer heavy corrosion to brake
rotors and migrate to the wheel studs and lug nuts. This is prevalent
primarily in conditions where the tires/wheels are left on the car year
'round. Steel wheels can simply be scuffed and repainted, while aluminum
wheels need to be ground out, filled in with weld and machined back down to
the original thickness. Repairing an aluminum wheel can be costly and time
consuming. Aluminum wheels are also more expensive when it comes time for
repair or replacement. As I described previously, steel wheels are the best
choice for winter driving simply for their durability and cost
effectiveness. Many enthusiasts choose this setup for all makes of cars for
those same reasons.

I've included some photos showing the heavy winter corrosion on aluminum
wheels around the outer rim where the tire makes it's seal, and on the
inside where the wheel mounts-the heaviest corrosion areas, as well as a
steel wheel. On the steel wheel, you can see where the brake dust started to
rust the wheel where it's left exposed by the cover-this is about as rusty
as they get. Again, a simple wash can prevent a multitude of issues on a
car. I hope this helps you in your decision making process.

4 Nokian WRG2 Tires $163.75 ea. ($655.00)

4 Nokian Hakkapelitta R2 Tires $185.00 ea. ($740.00)
 
#22 ·
The only question I have about alloy vs steel is [unsprung] weight and its impact on range. I'm not really convinced that it's significant, but I'm also not convinced it isn't.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Kfetty, your guy appears to be comparing painted steel wheels to bare aluminum.

Both my Volt wheels and my snow wheels are painted (clear coated). My winter wheels are painted silver, and clear coated. I also applied my own clear coat to my winter wheels (belt and suspenders).

Both have been through two winters with salt and look brand new.

My steel winter wheels (another car), look like hell. Very rusted. Why? The ugly plastic hub caps snap on using steel teeth that scratch through the paint, allowing the salt to quickly rust the steel. I used to use hubcaps that used plastic fingers/prongs, but every winter one would come off (lost) or when they were removed in the spring a plastic prong would break off. Either way, a new set of hubcaps every year was the result. The hubcaps with steel grippers don't break, and hold tight, but they rust the hubs.

Regarding the aluminum wheel to steel hub, he has a point. That point of contact can rust. However, to prevent this you can either place plastic dielectric plates there, or apply some anti-seize. Here is 1) a picture of the plate (really just some thin plastic from a document folder) and 2) a PDF containing a printable pattern to cut out the plastic from a document cover:

1. Circle Diagram
2. View attachment Volt Dielectric Wheel Shim.pdf

This clever plate idea was contributed by frankydude another member. You can see his original post here: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?21922-Wheel-corrosion-because-of-two-different-metals-

I chose the anti-seize method, mostly as an experiment. I may cut out some "frankydude plates" because they don't require reapplying anti-seize to the hubs every time I rotate the wheels.
 
#25 ·
Hi,
I have not purchased them yet because the Nokians I wanted are not yet available. I will email him this week and get a status update and ask about the wheel size for you and report back.
Karen
 
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