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"Service High Voltage Charging System" Fix (Updated) + VCX Nano Setup Guide (VX Manager, ACDelco TDS, Techline Connect, SPS2)

40956 Views 166 Replies 55 Participants Last post by  Willdathrill84
The “Service High Voltage Charging System” message is a common problem on first generation Volts. Often, the only way to fix the error is to reprogram the BECM and HPCM2 modules (even if nothing is inherently wrong with the vehicle). Before you reprogram the modules, you should see if clearing the codes fixes the issue. Also, make sure the battery coolant is not low. If clearing the codes does not permanently fix the problem, you most likely need to reprogram the modules. This can be accomplished by purchasing a VCX Nano and SPS2 subscription from ACDelco TDS.

GM recently discontinued SPS and replaced it with SPS2, so many of the guides are outdated. I recently reprogrammed the BECM and HPCM2 modules on my Volt and made a video and guide. Hopefully, it will be useful for anyone with the same problem.
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If you HAVE all the gear set up that you can do the "Clear Secured" part yourself, then you can do it. I think that's all the stuff that's needed.
Ohhh so would you know how to do that?
Leaving your car <somewhere>, picking up the VCX Nano and your Notebook, returning and bringing it back to life would beat everything involving Chevy Service.

Ender
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Any one know a shop that can flash software after I buy the defeat plug? I am in the Toledo/Detroit area.
Ohhh so would you know how to do that?
Leaving your car <somewhere>, picking up the VCX Nano and your Notebook, returning and bringing it back to life would beat everything involving Chevy Service.
No, I don't know how to do that. I don't have that stuff and I can walk to my dealership. :)
Any one know a shop that can flash software after I buy the defeat plug? I am in the Toledo/Detroit area.
You're looking for a shop other than a Chevy dealership to do this for you? The Volts are so rare nowadays, what with it being discontinued for 4 years already, that I wouldn't trust any shop with enough know-how to do this kind of thing for me if I don't even trust a Chevy dealer well enough to do it in the first place, because some Chevy dealers may not even have a trained Volt tech with them. Even if you find a non-dealer shop that can do it for you, not sure how much cheaper it'd be compared to the dealer. If you're looking to save money to fix the SVHCS error, the best way is to DIY. But if you're not comfortable with DIY, then just take it to a dealer.

I have the defeat plug and still got the SVHCS error anyway. So this error is not always caused by a faulty coolant sensor, but can be caused by other things as well. But don't let that discourage you from getting a defeat plug because it still serves its purpose. But I wouldn't install the defeat plug until after I get the dealer to reprogram the software just to keep it simple and not give the dealer a reason to bug you about using a non-sanctioned part in your car.
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Trying to troubleshoot my daughter's 2012 Falcon, with SHVS when cold. Car seems to work fine when temps go over 50F, altho it clearly exhibits unbalanced cells, as it will run engine occasionally when battery gets low.
At current state, she's forced to ICE driving it only, and what's worse is - obviously in low population mode which is a safety risk.


Just picked up the VCX nano, and for the life of me I can't get it to work.
Not a computer guru, but am relatively fluent.
1. Would like to get it configured on a W11 laptop. Do I need virtual machine?
2. I have an old VISTA laptop - is it better to set it up there?

I keep getting "no valid lease found" message in GDS2

Any tips would be greatly appreciate.
Trying to troubleshoot my daughter's 2012 Falcon, with SHVS when cold. Car seems to work fine when temps go over 50F, altho it clearly exhibits unbalanced cells, as it will run engine occasionally when battery gets low.
At current state, she's forced to ICE driving it only, and what's worse is - obviously in low population mode which is a safety risk.


Just picked up the VCX nano, and for the life of me I can't get it to work.
Not a computer guru, but am relatively fluent.
1. Would like to get it configured on a W11 laptop. Do I need virtual machine?
2. I have an old VISTA laptop - is it better to set it up there?

I keep getting "no valid lease found" message in GDS2

Any tips would be greatly appreciate.
The VCX Nano, as a Chinese product, is well known to have Chinese software full of viruses that everyone can see with their own eyes inside their virtual machines without fail. If there hasn't been crystal clear step by step instructions on how to deal with the VCX Nano to get it to work safely by the OP of this thread, I wouldn't even bother touching the VCX Nano with a ten foot pole. Even with crystal clear instructions, hiccups were still encountered along the way because things change, like where the downloads can be found, and versions of the downloads change.

It seems like you're trying to get the VCX Nano to work outside the parameters of the exact instructions imparted by the OP, and for a different debugging purpose than to simply reprogram the HPCM2 and BECM to clear the SHVCS error. I doubt if anybody would be able to or even willing to help you debug and walk through your issues with it remotely on a thread like this because you're not following the imparted instructions 100%, and what you're trying to do is not quite 100% relevant to the thread. So there's not much to reference to because the whole basis for this thread used as reference is the detailed instructions on how to DIY with the HPCM2 and BECM reprogramming.
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The VCX Nano, as a Chinese product, is well known to have Chinese software full of viruses that everyone can see with their own eyes inside their virtual machines without fail. If there hasn't been crystal clear step by step instructions on how to deal with the VCX Nano to get it to work safely by the OP of this thread, I wouldn't even bother touching the VCX Nano with a ten foot pole.
Well - thanks for that useless info. I am pretty sure just about everyone is quite aware of the risks involved using Chinese products.

Back to the subject.

I got everything working up to this point:

Rectangle Font Electronic device Electric blue Number


TechConnect communicates with the car, pulls VIN, and all, but crashes right after .

I can connect and view all diagnostics using the VCX's GDS2. Assuming that one can't reflash and TechConnect is needed to do that ?

( WIN 11 Home, 12GB RAM )

Any input would greatly be appreciated.

PeterK
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@konimail are you triggering the opening of TLC from the ACDelco site, or the local machine? It must be the former - the website generates a session token that is passed to the local application to authorize the connection with the cloud sever(s). The browser used must also have access to the local install of TLC to pass that session token to it - be sure to use internet explorer or edge; I personally have had success using edge. Disable pop-up blockers, etc.

I'd also strongly recommend not installing the GDS2 crack prior to using techline connect - TLC should run without the trojan/GDS2 crack. See step 10 of the instructions
@konimail are you triggering the opening of TLC from the ACDelco site, or the local machine? It must be the former - the website generates a session token that is passed to the local application to authorize the connection with the cloud sever(s). The browser used must also have access to the local install of TLC to pass that session token to it - be sure to use internet explorer or edge; I personally have had success using edge. Disable pop-up blockers, etc.

I'd also strongly recommend not installing the GDS2 crack prior to using techline connect - TLC should run without the trojan/GDS2 crack. See step 10 of the instructions
Hi, and thank you for responding.
Yes - TLC is opened from the ACDelco site, no problem there. Its starting, connecting to the car, pulling the VIN, then crashing

Unfortunately the GD2 is already installed. Any way to reverse it ?
UPDATE #1,
Uninstalled GD2 that came with the VX Nano. That apparently eliminated the TLC error.
Run the refresh successfully and the Falcon is charging.

Will do some driving tomorrow and update on its stability
UPDATE #2,
Falcon fully charged, but when i came to it this morning the green light wasn't flashing, no CEL light tho.
On the way to work all looked normal till battery got depleted to about 50%, engine kicked in for a few miles. Clearly some unbalanced cells.

Plugged in at work, and no charging. Still no CEL, main display shows " unable to charge "
Will run codes in a bit and see if I see anything
UPDATE #3
Apparently 2012 Falcon does not like the one specific CharPoint I have. My other two volts and the Tesla charge fine on it.

Falcon does charge ok on another L2 charger I have at home
Anyone experienced anything like it?
The “Service High Voltage Charging System” message is a common problem on first generation Volts. Often, the only way to fix the error is to reprogram the BECM and HPCM2 modules (even if nothing is inherently wrong with the vehicle). Before you reprogram the modules, you should see if clearing the codes fixes the issue. Also, make sure the battery coolant is not low. If clearing the codes does not permanently fix the problem, you most likely need to reprogram the modules. This can be accomplished by purchasing a VCX Nano and SPS2 subscription from ACDelco TDS.
OK, so this just happened to me (2013) and I have a few observations:

1) I cleared the code with Torque Lite and the SHVCS disappeared, allowing me to charge the car only to to have the fault reappear (noted by many others).

2) Dealer quoted me $320 to reprogram the modules. I immersed myself in the VX nano approach: Ordered the VX nano, subscribed to SPS2, created a virtual machine and loaded the software. Also ordered a new sensor.

3) While waiting for the VX nano, I cleared the fault, removed the sensor from the bottom of the reservoir and checked the resistance, right on 24.7 ohms. I plugged it in to the connector and tied it out of the way. Since then, no faults over the course of 3 days and 3 complete charge cycles.

Next, I think I will reinstall the sensor and see if the code reappears. If it does, then I wonder if the magnet has become dislodged from the float in the reservoir and is constantly triggering the sensor. Has this ever been discussed?
OK, so this just happened to me (2013) and I have a few observations:

1) I cleared the code with Torque Lite and the SHVCS disappeared, allowing me to charge the car only to to have the fault reappear (noted by many others).

2) Dealer quoted me $320 to reprogram the modules. I immersed myself in the VX nano approach: Ordered the VX nano, subscribed to SPS2, created a virtual machine and loaded the software. Also ordered a new sensor.

3) While waiting for the VX nano, I cleared the fault, removed the sensor from the bottom of the reservoir and checked the resistance, right on 24.7 ohms. I plugged it in to the connector and tied it out of the way. Since then, no faults over the course of 3 days and 3 complete charge cycles.

Next, I think I will reinstall the sensor and see if the code reappears. If it does, then I wonder if the magnet has become dislodged from the float in the reservoir and is constantly triggering the sensor. Has this ever been discussed?
If I were you, I wouldn't bother with ordering a new coolant sensor, because it may be good for a while, then it'd just go bad again. I took the route of replacing the sensor with the defeat plug to deal with that issue for good.

Sometimes the SHVCS error is due to the coolant sensor, sometimes it's not and it's due to something else. In my case, I had the defeat plug installed way earlier up front, and I still get the SHVCS error a year or two after that. So I know that my SHVCS error was not due to the coolant sensor because it was already bypassed. Nevertheless, my SHVCS error was intermittent in the first summer, I'd clear the codes with the Torque Pro app and it'd be good for several days then threw the codes again. By winter time, the codes went away for good when the temperature cooled down, all the way until next summer when it came back with a vengeance. Then it would constantly throw the codes almost everyday, sometimes twice a day. Then winter came and it didn't go away like the winter before. I kept resetting the codes until I could not longer do that because I had a smog test coming up. That's when I reprogrammed the modules and the SHVCS error went away for good since then.

Anyway, back to your question, I'd suggest you buy and install the defeat plug instead of keep trying to replace the sensor and worry about related things like the magnet dislodged and this and that. I just check my coolant level about once a month instead, which I do anyway with or without the coolant sensor, so it's no big deal for me to defeat the sensor altogether with the defeat plug.
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If I were you, I wouldn't bother with ordering a new coolant sensor, because it may be good for a while, then it'd just go bad again. I took the route of replacing the sensor with the defeat plug to deal with that issue for good.

Anyway, back to your question, I'd suggest you buy and install the defeat plug instead of keep trying to replace the sensor and worry about related things like the magnet dislodged and this and that. I just check my coolant level about once a month instead, which I do anyway with or without the coolant sensor, so it's no big deal for me to defeat the sensor altogether with the defeat plug.
Fair enough, probably good advice. Since the old sensor is not faulting while it's wired out of the way, it's essentially acting as a defeat plug. If it starts faulting again when it's back in place, then the loose magnet theory is back up front. It's little stuff like this that sticks in my craw until I figure it out, although swapping out the tank to do so is way down on my want-to-do list. I'm seriously thinking about returning the unopened VXnano, since it seems that clearing with Torque takes care of the fault code, contrary to a lot of what has been posted here. I'm still out the $45 for the SPS2 and the time spent setting up the VM, but that's life. I'd never have gotten to this point without this forum - well worth what I'm out.
I'm seriously thinking about returning the unopened VXnano, since it seems that clearing with Torque takes care of the fault code, contrary to a lot of what has been posted here. I'm still out the $45 for the SPS2 and the time spent setting up the VM, but that's life. I'd never have gotten to this point without this forum - well worth what I'm out.
I was living with the Torque Pro and clearing out the fault codes for 2 years, but it's a drag and I wish I had done the reprogramming sooner.

Maybe you didn't catch what I said about why I finally HAD to reprogram -> if you live in the US and in a state where you have to take the Volt in for a smog test every year or couple of years, clearing out the fault codes will also clear out all your emissions monitor data which is required to be available and ready to be read from during the smog inspection. This means that you will fail your smog test. I think you are allowed to have one or 2 or these emission monitors unavailable (1 or 2 depending on the state), and it's not a trivial thing to rebuild/restore the emission monitors data. You'd have to drive through and complete 1 drive cycle to restore all your emission monitors data, and this requires driving the Volt in a certain way through various driving situations.

Of course you can stop charging for a while and rebuild your emission monitors data so you can pass the emission test, then resume clearing the faults with the Torque Pro again until next time. But if you already paid the $45 SPS2 subscription and still have the VCX Nano and already built your VM up, if I were you I'd just finish up the reprogramming just to be done with it for good.
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I was living with the Torque Pro and clearing out the fault codes for 2 years, but it's a drag and I wish I had done the reprogramming sooner.
I re-read your post. So, I see that your SHVCS faults continued after you installed the bypass. Were these associated with a P1FFF code or different one? If P1FFF, then it is reappearance of the permanent code that set with the original coolant level sensor failure, since your bypass cannot fail. In other words, am I fooling myself into thinking that my P1FFF won't come back because it hasn't since I moved my sensor a week ago?

-> if you live in the US and in a state where you have to take the Volt in for a smog test every year or couple of years, clearing out the fault codes will also clear out all your emissions monitor data which is required to be available and ready to be read from during the smog inspection. This means that you will fail your smog test.
Fortunately for me, no smog testing in Michigan.
I re-read your post. So, I see that your SHVCS faults continued after you installed the bypass. Were these associated with a P1FFF code or different one? If P1FFF, then it is reappearance of the permanent code that set with the original coolant level sensor failure, since your bypass cannot fail. In other words, am I fooling myself into thinking that my P1FFF won't come back because it hasn't since I moved my sensor a week ago?
I got the 3 fault codes that most people reported, P0AA6, P1E00 and P1FFF. I installed my defeat plug at the end of 2019 and did not start getting these 3 codes until the summer of 2021, so it couldn't have been due to the coolant level sensor failure because my defeat plug was in place for almost 2 years prior to the faults showing up.

The other thing I said was that by winter of 2021, the faults went away altogether for the whole winter time, and didn't return until the summer of 2022. So definitely it was temperature related, not due to coolant sensor. I suspect that my coolant's resistance level might have changed over time and went out of bound of what the Volt software deems acceptable. The coolant's resistance is probably temperature dependent, so that's why when things cooled down the first winter in 2021, the faults went away until the following summer. But then the faults remained after winter 2022 came, so I'm hypothesizing that my coolant's resistance continued to change such that the cooler temperature of the 2022 winter didn't bring it back in range anymore, although the cooler temperature of 2021 was able to bring it back in range.

I read somewhere that Chevy put an overly tight tolerance on what the coolant resistance should be to begin with, and this has caused the SHVCS fault codes to throw with many Volts. But in their more recent software updates, they loosened up the bounds to a more realistic range. That's why reprogramming the 2 modules would update the software with the newer/looser tolerance values, thereby solving the issue. This is my understanding after reading up on the SHVCS from the GM Volt forum, although I don't remember which thread it is anymore.

So don't think that the coolant level sensor is the only thing that can throw up the SHVCS fault and get fixated on that only. Yes, it's one of the reasons that throws the fault, but not the only reason. So yeah, you can play around with the coolant sensor in your Volt to see if that's the issue or not if you want, since you don't have the pressure of doing the smog test. But if it still gets you nowhere, then do the reprogramming next. But if I were you, I'd actually do it the other way around -> do the reprogramming first, then if the SHVCS fault still throws, then I would investigate the coolant sensor issue next. But it doesn't throw anymore, then you know it's not the coolant sensor.
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I got the 3 fault codes that most people reported, P0AA6, P1E00 and P1FFF.
These are the same codes as I saw associated with the SHVCS

I suspect that my coolant's resistance level might have changed over time and went out of bound of what the Volt software deems acceptable....
So don't think that the coolant level sensor is the only thing that can throw up the SHVCS fault and get fixated on that only.
It most certainly is not. I'm no expert, but here is my take: The SHVCS indicates that there was some system failure that might make charging the battery dangerous or impossible. Low coolant level is one such situation, and the code associated with it is P1FFF. P0AA6 and P1EE0 come because of the P1FFF triggering isolation (which is why they always come together). If there is a coolant resistance sensor (Google comes up blank on that one), then a failure would have it's own code, not P1FFF. The fault codes themselves are diagnostic and the SHVCS is a just response to any number of faults associated with high voltage charging. If you had a P1FFF return after clearing codes and installing the defeat plug, then it's because that code was only temporarily cleared and for some mysterious reason it reappears. Does not seem logical, but that does not mean it doesn't happen. Lots of discussion here about the P1FFF being "permanent". From what I have read, you can either reprogram the modules or drive long enough without another failure for it to go away on it's own. For sure, fault code history is part of modern PCM control and helps in distinguishing transient and real sensor failures.
All this crap makes me appreciate my '66 Impala even more. :)
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keep in mind some of us had the cable (spliced) to the tank sensor and my problem only went away AFTER getting a new cable so if the cable or the plug on the other end has a problem then the by-pass resistor will not help.

some 2011-2012 Volts had the sensor and tank added by dealer.

-- There is still reported problem with these code in charging in high temperature summer weather with older cooling fluid.
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