Ohhh so would you know how to do that?
Leaving your car <somewhere>, picking up the VCX Nano and your Notebook, returning and bringing it back to life would beat everything involving Chevy Service.
Ender
Ohhh so would you know how to do that?If you HAVE all the gear set up that you can do the "Clear Secured" part yourself, then you can do it. I think that's all the stuff that's needed.
No, I don't know how to do that. I don't have that stuff and I can walk to my dealership.Ohhh so would you know how to do that?
Leaving your car <somewhere>, picking up the VCX Nano and your Notebook, returning and bringing it back to life would beat everything involving Chevy Service.
You're looking for a shop other than a Chevy dealership to do this for you? The Volts are so rare nowadays, what with it being discontinued for 4 years already, that I wouldn't trust any shop with enough know-how to do this kind of thing for me if I don't even trust a Chevy dealer well enough to do it in the first place, because some Chevy dealers may not even have a trained Volt tech with them. Even if you find a non-dealer shop that can do it for you, not sure how much cheaper it'd be compared to the dealer. If you're looking to save money to fix the SVHCS error, the best way is to DIY. But if you're not comfortable with DIY, then just take it to a dealer.Any one know a shop that can flash software after I buy the defeat plug? I am in the Toledo/Detroit area.
The VCX Nano, as a Chinese product, is well known to have Chinese software full of viruses that everyone can see with their own eyes inside their virtual machines without fail. If there hasn't been crystal clear step by step instructions on how to deal with the VCX Nano to get it to work safely by the OP of this thread, I wouldn't even bother touching the VCX Nano with a ten foot pole. Even with crystal clear instructions, hiccups were still encountered along the way because things change, like where the downloads can be found, and versions of the downloads change.Trying to troubleshoot my daughter's 2012 Falcon, with SHVS when cold. Car seems to work fine when temps go over 50F, altho it clearly exhibits unbalanced cells, as it will run engine occasionally when battery gets low.
At current state, she's forced to ICE driving it only, and what's worse is - obviously in low population mode which is a safety risk.
Just picked up the VCX nano, and for the life of me I can't get it to work.
Not a computer guru, but am relatively fluent.
1. Would like to get it configured on a W11 laptop. Do I need virtual machine?
2. I have an old VISTA laptop - is it better to set it up there?
I keep getting "no valid lease found" message in GDS2
Any tips would be greatly appreciate.
Well - thanks for that useless info. I am pretty sure just about everyone is quite aware of the risks involved using Chinese products.The VCX Nano, as a Chinese product, is well known to have Chinese software full of viruses that everyone can see with their own eyes inside their virtual machines without fail. If there hasn't been crystal clear step by step instructions on how to deal with the VCX Nano to get it to work safely by the OP of this thread, I wouldn't even bother touching the VCX Nano with a ten foot pole.
Hi, and thank you for responding.@konimail are you triggering the opening of TLC from the ACDelco site, or the local machine? It must be the former - the website generates a session token that is passed to the local application to authorize the connection with the cloud sever(s). The browser used must also have access to the local install of TLC to pass that session token to it - be sure to use internet explorer or edge; I personally have had success using edge. Disable pop-up blockers, etc.
I'd also strongly recommend not installing the GDS2 crack prior to using techline connect - TLC should run without the trojan/GDS2 crack. See step 10 of the instructions
OK, so this just happened to me (2013) and I have a few observations:The “Service High Voltage Charging System” message is a common problem on first generation Volts. Often, the only way to fix the error is to reprogram the BECM and HPCM2 modules (even if nothing is inherently wrong with the vehicle). Before you reprogram the modules, you should see if clearing the codes fixes the issue. Also, make sure the battery coolant is not low. If clearing the codes does not permanently fix the problem, you most likely need to reprogram the modules. This can be accomplished by purchasing a VCX Nano and SPS2 subscription from ACDelco TDS.
If I were you, I wouldn't bother with ordering a new coolant sensor, because it may be good for a while, then it'd just go bad again. I took the route of replacing the sensor with the defeat plug to deal with that issue for good.OK, so this just happened to me (2013) and I have a few observations:
1) I cleared the code with Torque Lite and the SHVCS disappeared, allowing me to charge the car only to to have the fault reappear (noted by many others).
2) Dealer quoted me $320 to reprogram the modules. I immersed myself in the VX nano approach: Ordered the VX nano, subscribed to SPS2, created a virtual machine and loaded the software. Also ordered a new sensor.
3) While waiting for the VX nano, I cleared the fault, removed the sensor from the bottom of the reservoir and checked the resistance, right on 24.7 ohms. I plugged it in to the connector and tied it out of the way. Since then, no faults over the course of 3 days and 3 complete charge cycles.
Next, I think I will reinstall the sensor and see if the code reappears. If it does, then I wonder if the magnet has become dislodged from the float in the reservoir and is constantly triggering the sensor. Has this ever been discussed?
Fair enough, probably good advice. Since the old sensor is not faulting while it's wired out of the way, it's essentially acting as a defeat plug. If it starts faulting again when it's back in place, then the loose magnet theory is back up front. It's little stuff like this that sticks in my craw until I figure it out, although swapping out the tank to do so is way down on my want-to-do list. I'm seriously thinking about returning the unopened VXnano, since it seems that clearing with Torque takes care of the fault code, contrary to a lot of what has been posted here. I'm still out the $45 for the SPS2 and the time spent setting up the VM, but that's life. I'd never have gotten to this point without this forum - well worth what I'm out.If I were you, I wouldn't bother with ordering a new coolant sensor, because it may be good for a while, then it'd just go bad again. I took the route of replacing the sensor with the defeat plug to deal with that issue for good.
Anyway, back to your question, I'd suggest you buy and install the defeat plug instead of keep trying to replace the sensor and worry about related things like the magnet dislodged and this and that. I just check my coolant level about once a month instead, which I do anyway with or without the coolant sensor, so it's no big deal for me to defeat the sensor altogether with the defeat plug.
I was living with the Torque Pro and clearing out the fault codes for 2 years, but it's a drag and I wish I had done the reprogramming sooner.I'm seriously thinking about returning the unopened VXnano, since it seems that clearing with Torque takes care of the fault code, contrary to a lot of what has been posted here. I'm still out the $45 for the SPS2 and the time spent setting up the VM, but that's life. I'd never have gotten to this point without this forum - well worth what I'm out.
I re-read your post. So, I see that your SHVCS faults continued after you installed the bypass. Were these associated with a P1FFF code or different one? If P1FFF, then it is reappearance of the permanent code that set with the original coolant level sensor failure, since your bypass cannot fail. In other words, am I fooling myself into thinking that my P1FFF won't come back because it hasn't since I moved my sensor a week ago?I was living with the Torque Pro and clearing out the fault codes for 2 years, but it's a drag and I wish I had done the reprogramming sooner.
Fortunately for me, no smog testing in Michigan.-> if you live in the US and in a state where you have to take the Volt in for a smog test every year or couple of years, clearing out the fault codes will also clear out all your emissions monitor data which is required to be available and ready to be read from during the smog inspection. This means that you will fail your smog test.
I got the 3 fault codes that most people reported, P0AA6, P1E00 and P1FFF. I installed my defeat plug at the end of 2019 and did not start getting these 3 codes until the summer of 2021, so it couldn't have been due to the coolant level sensor failure because my defeat plug was in place for almost 2 years prior to the faults showing up.I re-read your post. So, I see that your SHVCS faults continued after you installed the bypass. Were these associated with a P1FFF code or different one? If P1FFF, then it is reappearance of the permanent code that set with the original coolant level sensor failure, since your bypass cannot fail. In other words, am I fooling myself into thinking that my P1FFF won't come back because it hasn't since I moved my sensor a week ago?
These are the same codes as I saw associated with the SHVCSI got the 3 fault codes that most people reported, P0AA6, P1E00 and P1FFF.
It most certainly is not. I'm no expert, but here is my take: The SHVCS indicates that there was some system failure that might make charging the battery dangerous or impossible. Low coolant level is one such situation, and the code associated with it is P1FFF. P0AA6 and P1EE0 come because of the P1FFF triggering isolation (which is why they always come together). If there is a coolant resistance sensor (Google comes up blank on that one), then a failure would have it's own code, not P1FFF. The fault codes themselves are diagnostic and the SHVCS is a just response to any number of faults associated with high voltage charging. If you had a P1FFF return after clearing codes and installing the defeat plug, then it's because that code was only temporarily cleared and for some mysterious reason it reappears. Does not seem logical, but that does not mean it doesn't happen. Lots of discussion here about the P1FFF being "permanent". From what I have read, you can either reprogram the modules or drive long enough without another failure for it to go away on it's own. For sure, fault code history is part of modern PCM control and helps in distinguishing transient and real sensor failures.I suspect that my coolant's resistance level might have changed over time and went out of bound of what the Volt software deems acceptable....
So don't think that the coolant level sensor is the only thing that can throw up the SHVCS fault and get fixated on that only.