[SeattleVolt]

Has anyone done their own self install of clear bra installation for hood and bumper on a 2016 or 2017? I've installed 3m kits on previous cars, but its been a number of years. Just wondering if Volt is a bear? The bumper looks like it might not be a ton of fun.

 

[quirkySquirt]

No experience myself, but the cheapest quote I could get was from a place underneath the West Seattle Bridge and they were charging $3000 for a full body bra while other places were averaging $4000 and the dealership was charging $5000. These prices were collected last summer, however.

Perhaps you can meet them in the middle? Have pros do the difficult bumpers and such and you'd do the large door panels and hood yourself?

 

[llninja]

I don't like those clear bras, but I do love plastidip. I keep telling myself I need to get an Erlang dip sprayer and some gallons to dip the whole car, but I've done lots of trim pieces in the past. The cool thing about plastidip is that if you mess up, it peels right off. At about $5 per can from Menards (when there is a sale), you can't go wrong.

 

[Steverino]

I had all the leading edge surfaces (bumper, 1/2 hood, partial fender, side mirror skull caps), plus the door edges and top of rear bumper (suitcase damage area) of my 2011 done for about $500 locally. Took 2 guys about 3 or so hours. It has definitely saved the car from some damage. Mine has the 3M clearbra material. Would do it again.

 

[llninja]

No experience myself, but the cheapest quote I could get was from a place underneath the West Seattle Bridge and they were charging $3000 for a full body bra while other places were averaging $4000 and the dealership was charging $5000. These prices were collected last summer, however.

Perhaps you can meet them in the middle? Have pros do the difficult bumpers and such and you'd do the large door panels and hood yourself?

Hmmm, at $500 for a dip sprayer and several gallons plus sweat equity over a weekend, I'd plastidip it over getting a body bra.

 

[quirkySquirt]

Yeah, been meaning to clear out some more room in the garage and try out dipping. I'm not a huge fan of the feel after feeling some coworkers' dips and I'm not sure if the "clear" options are clear enough I can see the kinetic blue shine through, though. I do recall that dips come with a clear option but I ran across some forum where multiple layers of the clear gloss yielded a matte-like appearance and dust caught between layers were noticeable. I can't seem to find it again with my Google-fu, though.

Another reason I didn't go with dipping was according to this forum post:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/3031522-plasti-dip-clear-as-a-clear-bra.html

the dip doesn't protect the same as actual PPF clear bras. To get any appreciable protection, many layers were needed and that combined with a clear dip's trapping of dust in between coats, deterred me. I'm still going to try it on small parts cause I think I can use it as an alternative to painting my Volt in a few years when obvious scratches accumulate too much. Hopefully, dip tech will advance by then and we get more durable dip with a single coat. Or maybe I'll finally get tired of the kinetic blue and just dip a different solid color so I don't have to worry about between-coat contaminants.

 

[llninja]

Yeah, been meaning to clear out some more room in the garage and try out dipping. I'm not a huge fan of the feel after feeling some coworkers' dips and I'm not sure if the "clear" options are clear enough I can see the kinetic blue shine through, though. I do recall that dips come with a clear option but I ran across some forum where multiple layers of the clear gloss yielded a matte-like appearance and dust caught between layers were noticeable. I can't seem to find it again with my Google-fu, though.

Another reason I didn't go with dipping was according to this forum post:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/3031522-plasti-dip-clear-as-a-clear-bra.html

the dip doesn't protect the same as actual PPF clear bras. To get any appreciable protection, many layers were needed and that combined with a clear dip's trapping of dust in between coats, deterred me. I'm still going to try it on small parts cause I think I can use it as an alternative to painting my Volt in a few years when obvious scratches accumulate too much. Hopefully, dip tech will advance by then and we get more durable dip with a single coat. Or maybe I'll finally get tired of the kinetic blue and just dip a different solid color so I don't have to worry about between-coat contaminants.

There's a new DipPearl Topcoat product that looks almost like a clear pat and is much smoother, but I think it only comes in gallons which means you need to buy a dip sprrayer.

Watch their YouTube videos and you can't put plastidip down in one coat. The first coat needs to be a really light goat where you have 50% coverage followed up by 4 to 6 heavier coats. If you are really worried about dust particles, then you need to make yourself a paint booth - the poor man't paint booth could be with 2 by 4s, big sheets of plastic, a box fan, and some air filters. But then you might need an oxygen mask with a hose for fresh air for when you go into the booth as when you spray this stuff, the curing process emits stuff you don't want in your lungs. I just choose to dip outdoors on a day with zero chance of rain and not worry about it.

 

[colchiro]

If you put your top layers on "wetter", it'll be much smoother. Just have to be careful not to get runs.

 

[kindofblue]

I had all the leading edge surfaces (bumper, 1/2 hood, partial fender, side mirror skull caps), plus the door edges and top of rear bumper (suitcase damage area) of my 2011 done for about $500 locally. Took 2 guys about 3 or so hours. It has definitely saved the car from some damage. Mine has the 3M clearbra material. Would do it again.

Yup, I've done the same thing. And I agree that the lower bumper looks like quite a challenge for DIY.

 

[SeattleVolt]

No experience myself, but the cheapest quote I could get was from a place underneath the West Seattle Bridge and they were charging $3000 for a full body bra while other places were averaging $4000 and the dealership was charging $5000. These prices were collected last summer, however.

Perhaps you can meet them in the middle? Have pros do the difficult bumpers and such and you'd do the large door panels and hood yourself?

QuirkySquirt, $3k for a full car clear bra wrap is a an amazing price (relatively speaking). Which shop is this in West Seattle?

 

[Shivetya]

I just had 18 inches of the hood, front bumper, mirrors, and lift over of trunk done, here in Atlanta. Around 700

 

[Steverino]

I'm not sure if the "clear" options are clear enough

For comparison, my 3M clear bra is invisible. From a few angles where the bra ends on the hood you may see a very very thin hairline. That's it. Not sure why some feel the need to cover the entire vehicle. It's only the leading front and door edges that are subject to small stones hitting on the highway that need protection in my experience.

I've spray painted (primer, metallic base, clear) plenty of cars in my day. Having the clear bra installed in a few hours is my preference and indeed that's what I did.

 

[quirkySquirt]

QuirkySquirt, $3k for a full car clear bra wrap is a an amazing price (relatively speaking). Which shop is this in West Seattle?

Dang it, I can't find the email for the whole car. The place is Emerald City Tint at 1011 SW Klickitat Way right next to the West Seattle Bridge. I just replied to them again to ask for the quote again. It shocked me cause they were asking $1600 for the entire front hood, bumper, fender, mirrors, door edges/cups (whatever that is) which seemed high, but then a coworker mentioned the complex holes are what make the front costly while large panels are cheaper (less cutting needed). I'll post when I get a reply with full body wrap and PM you.

 

[quirkySquirt]

Got my quote back from Emerald City Tint. They're charging $3500 for full car. Hmmm, I could've sworn it was $3k even. I didn't go in person for the estimate, just an email with year+model of car, FYI.