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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was using this method to secure and protect the EVSE charger from the weather and thieves, which work perfect:
http://roulezelectrique.com/securiser-le-chargeur-portatif/

But, this afternoon, I said to myself: theres always a place for amelioration no!? So this is what I did:







This way, the EVSE is no more visible, and theres a little bit more space in there :D

IMPORTANT:
- PLEASE BE AWARE TO USE A HIGH AMP RATED EXTENSION CORD FOR OUTSIDE.
- I'M CURRENTLY TESTING THIS METHOD. KEEP THIS METHOD IN MIND, AND I'LL GET BACK TO YOU IN 1 OR 2 DAYS WITH RESULT ON A POSSIBILITY OF HEAT ISSUE.

Enjoy!
 

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Two issues that come to mind:

*Heat Issues ?
*Trunk Closing On Cables Might Cause Damage ?

Good idea nontheless :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Two issues that come to mind:

*Heat Issues ?
*Trunk Closing On Cables Might Cause Damage ?

Good idea nontheless :)
Trunk on cable didn't cause any damage. The cable isn't squeezed enough to get damages. For the heat, for now the EVSE dont seems to produce a lot of heat. Yes there is heat but not a big deal right now.

I'LL edit my post for the heat issue
 

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Cord wrapped on what!?
I think he means the charger cord wrapped up around the holder. I have mine completely unwrapped/unwound in my garage. I have an extra hook to loosely drape the extra cord around...just for ease of dissipating the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think he means the charger cord wrapped up around the holder. I have mine completely unwrapped/unwound in my garage. I have an extra hook to loosely drape the extra cord around...just for ease of dissipating the heat.
Thats what I though. Hum no actually the cord is always unwrapped. I never wrap it arround the holder. I just take the cord from the vehicule and the cord from the wall and then dispose them in the trunk. So in the trunk (above the panel) theres just the cords, which can be put in pile each side.
 

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Hey, Matt! You got the same extension cord (12 AWG) as me!
http://roulezelectrique.com/securiser-le-chargeur-portatif/img_0559/
http://roulezelectrique.com/securiser-le-chargeur-portatif/img_0560/

I have been using the method for the last 15 months successfully.
I did not have any wear problems related to the cables. I also don't fully latch the hatchback,
it locks at the first click.

Matt, I adopted your placement of the charger since the pictures above were taken, and it works
neatly.

Francois
B2653
 

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You could also run the J1772 thru the car interior and exit via the lower front driver door rubber.
That will keep the cable clean and dry during bad weather.
And less exposed to tampering.
 

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Interesting, HiVOLTage.
Do you route your cable through the driver door?
did you notice any cable damage going thru that path?

Francois
B2653
 

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I've only used the 110v EVSE 5 times and all were in a garage.

1 at the dealer. (They used it to charge for delivery day. Lol. )
2&3 at home before my L2 was installed.
4&5 on a relative vacation.

L2 really is way better in every aspect.
 

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This is why I want an integrated unit under the hood somehow. Instead of opening the charge door to plug in, you open a door on the front of the car and pull as much cable as you need out to charge. I actually don't have a fully baked idea here, more of a concept in need of development.
I also would love to develop some sort of solar panel shade that would cool/warm the interior of the car for you. I'm imagining an item that would start to adjust the temp of the car about an hour before you arrive, or be immediate if it's just a 30 minute store errand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey, Matt! You got the same extension cord (12 AWG) as me!
http://roulezelectrique.com/securiser-le-chargeur-portatif/img_0559/
http://roulezelectrique.com/securiser-le-chargeur-portatif/img_0560/

I have been using the method for the last 15 months successfully.
I did not have any wear problems related to the cables. I also don't fully latch the hatchback,
it locks at the first click.

Matt, I adopted your placement of the charger since the pictures above were taken, and it works
neatly.

Francois
B2653
Well, if your lock the trunk at the first click, the trunk light will keep be on. I personally completely close the trunk and the is no problem at all.

Yes my placement will probably not cause any heat problem because for those which keep the EVSE outside the car during high temperature in the summer make the EVSE to be very hot so.. whats the difference!? No air as outside yes but need to test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is why I want an integrated unit under the hood somehow. Instead of opening the charge door to plug in, you open a door on the front of the car and pull as much cable as you need out to charge. I actually don't have a fully baked idea here, more of a concept in need of development.
I also would love to develop some sort of solar panel shade that would cool/warm the interior of the car for you. I'm imagining an item that would start to adjust the temp of the car about an hour before you arrive, or be immediate if it's just a 30 minute store errand.
Yes I have some idea too. The best is to permanently install the EVSE AFTER the car plug.. like this you have only ONE cord from the wall to the plug. I know many of you will say : yes but the EVSE can broke.. YES AND?, remove it and change it.. lol I would make this change but it will end my warranty so.. :\
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You could also run the J1772 thru the car interior and exit via the lower front driver door rubber.
That will keep the cable clean and dry during bad weather.
And less exposed to tampering.
Interesting, pictures !?
 

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I do kinda wonder how long it will be before that unit is shrunk down to just an adapter that just plugs into the car port that you plug your extension cord into. More like Tesla is doing. Get rid of those cords and the problem of adequately supporting the unit with that short supply cord. Oh, and universal 100-250 VAC 50-60hz. Then you just need a space in the car to carry around the adapter and the extension cord. Just like computer power supplies have been for 20+ years. And power handling? Cisco makes 6kW power supplies for routers that work just that way. No you can't 6kW from 110 that requires 240.
 

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Matt,

I like this approach, and will try it as well. Tell me, though....in your first picture, is the "orange spot" on your yellow cord a crease from the cord getting pinched in the hatch? I wouldn't want to damage the insulation surrounding the wires in any way...

Thanks.
 

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Matt,

I like this approach, and will try it as well. Tell me, though....in your first picture, is the "orange spot" on your yellow cord a crease from the cord getting pinched in the hatch? I wouldn't want to damage the insulation surrounding the wires in any way...

Thanks.
It looks like the third picture shows where the kink in the J1772 cable comes from. The cargo area floor closes on the cable and kinks it. Maybe it would be better to have some of that rubber trip protector you can put over a cable to protect it from pinch points. You could cut it into small pieces to suit your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Matt,

I like this approach, and will try it as well. Tell me, though....in your first picture, is the "orange spot" on your yellow cord a crease from the cord getting pinched in the hatch? I wouldn't want to damage the insulation surrounding the wires in any way...

Thanks.
I dont see what you mean but I do this for 1 month and no problem. I know people that are doing the method (the RoulezElectrique website which put the holder in the trunk but dont hide it under the panel (cords still get out by the insulations)) for many many months and no problem there.

Me, I try to not put the cords at the always same place. There is a little squeeze mark on the cords, but as I dont close the trunk on the mark 2 times in row, the mark disappear.
Same thing for the insulation but I never see marks.
 
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