+1. If you can get one that's still under Voltec warranty, that's the way I would go. My 2012 checked out perfectly at a reputable dealership before purchase, and it has been the single most expensive car (with regards to repairs) I have ever owned. Just the battery alone will set you back as much as these are going for on the used market.Just on principle and without knowing anything, I would look for a 2013 and up model. Won't be that much more expensive, will have two years fewer on traction battery and has nicer features.
I don't know if that is necessary. The car will eventually adjust to you. When I bought mine used at a Honda dealership the GOM was around 45 Km. After I bought it, it went up to 60 Km. used it once a month where I would deplete battery and ICE would start and drive the last couple miles to Costco. Park it. Drive to Mall, Charge a bit on free chargers, drive to meeting, go home on ICE after I was on the highway. During COVID, meetings were cancelled, got my first EMMs then eventually FMM. Now that the weather has warmed up that I don't use heater first thing in the morning, the GOM has gone up to 62 Km. Never been that high before even though nothing has changed other than no EV to ICE change overs. Often I will start at 60-62 Km and drive the 9 km into town and it will still be at 60 to 62 Kms (60 Kph speed limit, rolling up and down road with end point higher than starting. It will even out by the end of trip to just above half battery.Interesting, the GOM has been steadily going up over the past few days. Getting to 30 on the GOM on a charge would be nice. At 28 now.
I haad read through the manual, more a skim, but I thought I saw something about resetting the system for a new driver, anyone know if that exists?
Perhaps what you read about "resetting the system" refers to the Lifetime MPG you see on the center console energy usage display. If the previous owner has driven a lot on gas, that number may be very low and goes up very slowly, so the new owner sometimes wants to "erase that number and start over." The GM service department can do that (and, I think, there’s an app that would allow you to do it). If you do that, you lose the ability to learn the car’s lifetime gas consumption.I had read through the manual, more a skim, but I thought I saw something about resetting the system for a new driver, anyone know if that exists?
Get the charge point. It's universal except for lease and you may get another EV at some point. My utility installed mine and covered 80%. I had them put in a cable that was rated for 50 amps even though I can only draw 30 at this point. With a plug in charge point you can change easily - or bring it with you somewhere. In fact the utility changed mine out when the first charge point had electronic issues.On a related issue, is there any real advantage other then time for getting a level 2 charger? My utility will give me a $500 rebate on a CPH25-L18-P Charge Point Wi-fi level 2 unit, The recommend unit has a 5 week waiting period and shows the price as $619 so not too bad after rebate. I'm on a TOD rate plan, and could easily put the 110 charger on a smart plug, or let my utility control it with the level 2. My rate goes up 50% between 2-7 PM in the summer.
That’s "trip" MPG, not "lifetime" MPG. Once you reset the trip A or B counter, you zero out any previous distance and gas consumption, so you lose the ability to use those trip counters to show your vehicle’s "lifetime" MPG. That’s the same reason you should not reset the energy usage display’s Lifetime MPG reading.You can easily reset trip A or B in the Driver Information Center (DIC). As well as trip distance, these trip meters also show total fuel consumption from last reset point. Divide trip miles by fuel consumed to get your "lifetime" MPG. Welcome to the club!