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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there any good way to power it such that it will power on/off with the car? I'm on a lease so physical modifications that can't be undone are probably not the best.
 

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Most dashcams plug into a usb/cig adapter and toggle on and off themselves with the power...Then most have very tiny batteries that and they can turn on and record for a minute or so to record if it senses shock...I read something on some forum (not here) that they stuck a cell phone powerbank battery in the enter console...Cable from cig lighter to the battery, another cable from the battery to the camera...Just have to find the right powerbank that's always discharging without the need to push a button...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
different Q, dont care about battery, I'm just wondering if there's an efficient way to wire it up for the back window
 

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Does the Gen 2 have a power port in the back seat area? The Gen 1 does in the rear center console that is switched with vehicle power. With the addition of a "third" seat, I would imagine it was likely relocated, but not completely removed.
 

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There appears to be a rear fuse panel in the Gen 2 just like the Gen 1. Use an "Add-a-circuit" plug to tap a fuse slot that is switched. Then use a dashcam/GPS hard wire kit to connect it. You should be able to hide the wires behind the plastic panels. You'll need to have some extra slack hanging from the hatch so you can open it. You will need to use a ground point for the hardwire kit. This may involve drilling a small screw in to the metal frame.

Hardwire kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S73FE8A
Add-a-circuit plugs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO/

As an example. I've attached a photo of the front panel fuse in the Gen 1. It shows the 'Add-a-circuit' and hardwire kit. It's completely reversible. Just plug the original fuse back in and remove the cables. The only permanent mod will be the ground screw (If you have to create one). But that'll be hidden and will not affect the car in any way.
 

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thanks, thats along the lines of what I was interested in learning.
You're welcome. I forgot to mention that you'll need to buy the hardwire kit that uses the same type of USB as your dashcam. Most of them use USB Micro-B and USB Mini-B.
 

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If you're going for zero modification to vehicle for lease purposes, you can run a long cable from the front cigarette lighter along the trim seams then around the weather stripping around doors. See my post on how I ran my cables. Granted, my rear camera is not mounted outside but it catches the general gist of what's happening (it's lo-res 480p). I've been meaning to remove the rear trim and attempt to snake the cable through existing rear license plate lights but from photos and videos of the rear bumper removal, it looks like that's not an option.
 

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I just recently finished my setup for both front and rear dash cam.
I am using Power Magic which attached directly to the 12V battery and the cut off voltage is set at 12.5V which will provide power at parking for a while without completely drain the battery.
After the Power Magic I have a DC-DC Buck Converter which I can set output voltage and current. This charges a power bank I built with 8 x 3 AA NiH rechargeable batteries. The reason using AA is that they are much safer than Lithium power banks especially during summer when the car can get dangerously hot under the sun.
After the battery I have a DC-DC Buck Converter which provide 5V to the 2 cameras.
All of these sit under the trunk carpet which is away from the heat.
BTW the 2 cameras are using super capacitors instead of lithium batteries due to safety concerns as mentioned above.
 
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