I've never heard of it before. Electrical problems can be really tricky to track down.
Try disconnecting the camera itself if you can and see if that stops the fuse from blowing.
Unfortunately, you have to go with a process of elimination, and hope you hit the issue sooner rather than later.
Start with disconnecting the camera. If the fuse no longer blows, it is most likely a bad camera - the camera can be replaced. If the fuse still blows, it could be a bad connector. If replacing the connector does not fix the issue, then there is most likely an issue with the wiring itself (probably crimped somewhere?), and finding the issue could be a pain. Having an electrical wiring schema diagram (from Chevy's Service Manual) should help.
So because you have other items on the same fuse. I assume it only blows when you put it in reverse. Is that correct?
Also the connectors do have excellent pin separation. I would highly doubt its a connector issue. It has to be a wire that's chafed or pinched to ground. It is possible something within the camera shorted. It's kind of a bugger to get at the camera connector , since you need to remove or partially remove the bumper cover to get at it. There are some videos on YouTube that show the process but it is a little more challenging in some spots that the videos make look.
check the backup light. This light is on the same fuse as the camera. Does the backup light work?
Was the bulb replaced with a incandescent bulb with too much wattage?
Try a brighter LED bulb that uses less amperage.
I took off my Rear facia, unplugged the back up light. randomly about 2 hours or so later, the fuse blows and the map lights don't work. but the rear back up camera works for another day or so. Then the rear camera stops working...
It doesn't blow while the camera is in use.. it is randomly while I am driving.
SO this morning the rear camera didn;t work.... NOW after lunch it works... and the fuse is still popped .....
Also, I swear i heard something pop in the rear driver door, and as soon as I heard it, I check the map lights and they didn;t work.... is the body controller in the rear driver door???
I have a feeling it si the dam body controller. any one know the pN: for this. and it's location I have a 2015 volt.
I had the same issue with my 2014 fixed under warranty. First they replaced the camera $$$$. Issue not fixed so they traced it to one of the interior lights, I think they ended up replacing sun visor with the light.
I would suggest you unplug the visor and see if it is fixed. Sorry I cant be more help but I did not DIY it.
Ya, this sounds a lot like a bad ground. Have you checked your battery cables? Also, how old is your 12V battery? A bad battery has been known to cause a myriad of problems.
Car is used 5-6 times a week. I dont think the 12v should be bad as of yet.
I tried to remove the driver visor. Once it was free from te headliner, there was no plug at the end... how long is this harness??? anyone know wher to fin detail drawings of this?
I would suspect it is the visor, I move it everyday, 3- 4 times a day.. ( I drive 85 miles each day)
I wouldn't completely rule out the battery. There were a few instances of bad batteries that only lasted a year or so.
Try putting the car in Reverse, and moving the visor back and forth repeatedly. If the camera cuts out while you are doing that, then you may have found the issue.
For now, to help you out, put a circuit breaker fuse in. I had a mustang that liked to short out the power to the AC. When it blew the AC compressor wouldn't work. I changed every part I could find, traced wires, couldn't figure it out. It wouldn't immediately blow the fuse either, sometimes weeks would go by. So I picked up a circuit breaker fuse, it would trip, the car would blow hot air and a few seconds later it would reconnect and I would have AC again. Get one rated for the same 7.5amps you have though so you don't cause a fire.
Your local auto supply store should have them - I just googled and pasted the first links I found... IIRC, I got mine at Discount Auto Parts which is now AutoZone.
I have the same issue with the F7 fuse repeatedly blowing after replacement
I got as far as removing the driver's side visor (until it was dangling by the wiring)
how did you get the plug exposed so you could disconnect/unplug it cleanly ? - "removed pillar trim" ? is there a procedure/pics on this?
(this presumably resolves the issue by removing a short circuit in the visor wiring ?)
I called AutoZone and Pepboys about the circuit breaker fuse option while I track the short down - they did not have them, but Napa had this part# BK_7823151 Circuit Breaker, Low Profile, Type III, CB227, 7.5 Amp
Hopefully another member will post the proper procedure so you can access the plug. Until then, be careful. I believe there is a side curtain air bag inside the A pillar, so I would not go randomly poking around in there. I think I would just cut the wire as short as possible and hope that removes the trouble spot.
Update I used the instructions/diagram in the tweeter upgrade thread
to take off the drivers side A-pillar cover, but did not find the sun visor wiring underneath - just the tweeter and the tiedown for the curtain airbag
I'm guessing the sun visor wiring goes to the roof center onstar/dome light console??
Ok, decided to just cut the driver's side sun visor wire to eliminate the short - FIXED:
back up camera,
daytime passenger running light
back up lights,
map lights
I just won't have a visor light - no big deal considering what I gained back
Ok, decided to just cut the driver's side sun visor wire to eliminate the short - FIXED:
back up camera,
daytime passenger running light
back up lights,
map lights
You are awesome. Traced this issue for weeks! Finally found this post and got some confidence to cut those wires. Fixed all my issues.
Thanks!
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