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Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased a new 17 Premier.

Safety1,2
NAV
Basically everything but lighted charge port(in a garage) and ACC (wifes car and she doesn't care about it)

35,900 + tax ttl and lic and got a good value for my trade.

Add in 7500 tax credit, my liability is more than high enough and 700 from Costco:

35,900 - 7500 - 700 +2185(tax and fees)
$29,885 total cost.

Not bad at all, I paid nearly the same for my used premium 13(pre 14 price cut).. Now to fight back the jealousy of wanting one....
 

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For all the guys who had their volts stolen from them by their wives, you should just drive her car and leave yours for her to drive. Not to rain on your parade but if you paid $29K for a used 2013 volt, you paid way too much. I got my premium for $21K new (post 2014 price cut). 2018 will be an interesting year as I predict a huge volt price drop w it's the onslaught of EVs hitting the marketplace (just like the great $5k price drop of 2013).
 

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What options did your unit have? I'm working with a couple of dealers here in central Florida on units with Driver Confidence packages 1 & 2. So far the best offer has been 37,900 on a 39,435 MSRP.
 

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For all the guys who had their volts stolen from them by their wives, you should just drive her car and leave yours for her to drive. Not to rain on your parade but if you paid $29K for a used 2013 volt, you paid way too much. I got my premium for $21K new (post 2014 price cut). 2018 will be an interesting year as I predict a huge volt price drop w it's the onslaught of EVs hitting the marketplace (just like the great $5k price drop of 2013).
That IS EXACTLY why you want to ONLY LEASE IF you get a Volt NOW. The VALUE will drop dramatically for many reasons....LOTS of competition coming on the market very soon and a renewal or makeover on the Volt coming in 2018...may be slight but will offer more features we want AND likely MUCH GREATER BATTERY RANGE (which is the driving force)....which will tank the price of current model more than anything else. The other value related event will be the Volt reaching 200k+ unit sales forcing the manufacturer to reduce prices to accommodate the loss of the tax writeoffs imo....
but it is a fantastic car no matter how ou take possession :)
 

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That IS EXACTLY why you want to ONLY LEASE IF you get a Volt NOW. The VALUE will drop dramatically for many reasons....LOTS of competition coming on the market very soon and a renewal or makeover on the Volt coming in 2018...may be slight but will offer more features we want AND likely MUCH GREATER BATTERY RANGE (which is the driving force)....which will tank the price of current model more than anything else. The other value related event will be the Volt reaching 200k+ unit sales forcing the manufacturer to reduce prices to accommodate the loss of the tax writeoffs imo....
but it is a fantastic car no matter how ou take possession :)
No, that's exactly why you don't let your desire for a new car overtake common sense and wait until you find a deal of the decade.

LLninja's guide to getting new cars cheap:
1. Buy the previous model year in Jan/Feb/Mar of the next calendar year
2. Widen your search, small rural towns that sell lots of pickups are great places to haggle down a volt
3. Collect rebates for 7+ years on a GM card, netting an additional $3500 in your pocket
4. Buy a stick shift in big metro areas where traffic causes people to only buy automatics (Chicagoland - I know this doesn't apply to electric cars)
5. Haggle like a Ferengi
6. Don't let new-car-itis cause you to spend too much
7. Pay cash for the car - wave that cash in front of the salesman saying you really want to make this happen, otherwise you'll take that cash across town to someone who will take it
8. Maintain your current cars so you aren't forced to buy on their terms, there will always be more deals, that's what more means. Patience can save you a ton.
 

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Yeah, the one thing about the Volt compared to other GM vehicles is it's very Tesla like in improvements...The Gen1 over it's 5 model year span had what, 3 battery/range increases? It also seemed to gain standard features every year...

For the MY18 Volt, it'll be very interesting to see what improvements if any are gained...Faster charging, slightly more range and different color grills (Black and dark grey) are at the top of the list of things I'd bet on if only Vegas would take my bet...

You also have the Buick Velite which many believe is China only, but it was caught testing in the United States and only had different front/rear bumpers...If you build a vehicle here and China imports it, huge tariffs and it doesn't qualify for Chinese incentives...I wouldn't be shocked to see Buick offer the Velite in the states, sort of a more upscale Volt...
 

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Yeah, the one thing about the Volt compared to other GM vehicles is it's very Tesla like in improvements...The Gen1 over it's 5 model year span had what, 3 battery/range increases? It also seemed to gain standard features every year...

For the MY18 Volt, it'll be very interesting to see what improvements if any are gained...Faster charging, slightly more range and different color grills (Black and dark grey) are at the top of the list of things I'd bet on if only Vegas would take my bet...

You also have the Buick Velite which many believe is China only, but it was caught testing in the United States and only had different front/rear bumpers...If you build a vehicle here and China imports it, huge tariffs and it doesn't qualify for Chinese incentives...I wouldn't be shocked to see Buick offer the Velite in the states, sort of a more upscale Volt...
Except Tesla offered 40/60/85 and now 60/70/90/100 battery options. I'd love to buy a Voltec with 20/25/30 kWh. Tesla also offers over the air software updates. Nothing of the sort for the Volt. As for different color grills - I've already gone from silver to silver turquoise chameleon to black back to silver all with the magic of plastidip. Next up, I'm going to attempt to make it all white pearl.
 

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No, that's exactly why you don't let your desire for a new car overtake common sense and wait until you find a deal of the decade.

LLninja's guide to getting new cars cheap:
1. Buy the previous model year in Jan/Feb/Mar of the next calendar year
2. Widen your search, small rural towns that sell lots of pickups are great places to haggle down a volt
3. Collect rebates for 7+ years on a GM card, netting an additional $3500 in your pocket
4. Buy a stick shift in big metro areas where traffic causes people to only buy automatics (Chicagoland - I know this doesn't apply to electric cars)
5. Haggle like a Ferengi
6. Don't let new-car-itis cause you to spend too much
7. Pay cash for the car - wave that cash in front of the salesman saying you really want to make this happen, otherwise you'll take that cash across town to someone who will take it
8. Maintain your current cars so you aren't forced to buy on their terms, there will always be more deals, that's what more means. Patience can save you a ton.
LLNINJA....do you have "cut & paste" replies preaching the SAME narrative on every post?
Sounds like all the democrats .....before, during and after the election??
btw (to all those....the election is OVER :)
 

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I'm just having some fun man so don't take it personally...

LLninja's guide to getting new cars cheap:
1. Buy the previous model year in Jan/Feb/Mar of the next calendar year
GM’s best deals in 2016 were 20% off in July, typically new model years are released early fall…
2. Widen your search, small rural towns that sell lots of pickups are great places to haggle down a volt
Just email the twelve of your closest dealers; not sure how’d you find out if they sold a lot of pickups or not anyways…
3. Collect rebates for 7+ years on a GM card, netting an additional $3500 in your pocket
What if your car is totaled, you need a new car now but don’t have the seven years of points? Also I don’t know for sure, just someone reporting points on one the GM cards could not be used on the Bolt…Not saying it’s true, just what one person reported…
4. Buy a stick shift in big metro areas where traffic causes people to only buy automatics (Chicagoland - I know this doesn't apply to electric cars)
I just don’t see a dealer caring about the transmission…If I were a car dealer and I noticed I made a higher profit on autos vs a manual, why should I order more manuals? Dealerships do dealer to dealer new car trades all the time so you could get a manual pretty quick if a customer is demanding one...How much demand is there for manuals at all now?
5. Haggle like a Ferengi
Well yeah but the best the method is to email dealers and get them to agree and competing against each other…Also there are many, possibly around half so simply cannot haggle a somewhat professional haggler like a car dealer and would “lose” on the price…Emailing dealership A and requesting they beat dealership B’s price requires almost no haggling skills…When you “haggle” over email you avoid all of their high pressure tactics and are not potentially wasting hours driving to and haggling at each dealership…
6. Don't let new-car-itis cause you to spend too much
In another words, be prepared with your total deal price…In any car deal there are many things to haggle, bonus fees, inflated legit fees, interest if not paying cash, trade in and the sales price…Just because you got a $10K price off the sales price doesn’t mean you didn’t get “taken” somewhere else on the deal like their trade in...
7. Pay cash for the car - wave that cash in front of the salesman saying you really want to make this happen, otherwise you'll take that cash across town to someone who will take it.
You agree to the price over email and you never need to get robbed carrying around up to $43K (this is Volt forum #1 and Bolt forum #2, someone here may want the most expensive model and roughly $43K), if you can somehow find a dealer who sells lots of pickups, not sure I want to carry around $43K…
8. Maintain your current cars so you aren't forced to buy on their terms, there will always be more deals, that's what more means. Patience can save you a ton.
This is a new car guide but drive it into the ground…I think that’s the extreme minority and most drive into the grounders would buy an used car and here on these forums, we know Volts don’t hold their value making used a great deal while new a horrible deal…
 

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No, that's exactly why you don't let your desire for a new car overtake common sense and wait until you find a deal of the decade.

LLninja's guide to getting new cars cheap:
1. Buy the previous model year in Jan/Feb/Mar of the next calendar year
2. Widen your search, small rural towns that sell lots of pickups are great places to haggle down a volt
3. Collect rebates for 7+ years on a GM card, netting an additional $3500 in your pocket
4. Buy a stick shift in big metro areas where traffic causes people to only buy automatics (Chicagoland - I know this doesn't apply to electric cars)
5. Haggle like a Ferengi
6. Don't let new-car-itis cause you to spend too much
7. Pay cash for the car - wave that cash in front of the salesman saying you really want to make this happen, otherwise you'll take that cash across town to someone who will take it
8. Maintain your current cars so you aren't forced to buy on their terms, there will always be more deals, that's what more means. Patience can save you a ton.
3.(a) Wait for the $1,500 bonus points offer from the GM Card to show up in mid January then have at it.
 

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3.(a) Wait for the $1,500 bonus points offer from the GM Card to show up in mid January then have at it.
3 years in a row, no bonus offer for me. The best I saw was last May with a $750 bonus. Hardly worth it.
 

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3 years in a row, no bonus offer for me. The best I saw was last May with a $750 bonus. Hardly worth it.
The last couple years it has been spend a certain amount and get a certain amount of bonus earnings. This year it was spend at least $750 and get $1,500 in bonus earnings.
 

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I'm just having some fun man so don't take it personally...
No worries.

What if your car is totaled, you need a new car now but don’t have the seven years of points? Also I don’t know for sure, just someone reporting points on one the GM cards could not be used on the Bolt…Not saying it’s true, just what one person reported…
Is it wrong to want to have your car totaled (and have it be someone else's fault) so I can get an ELR before the all disappear? True, without 7 years of points, you're stuck with what you've collected. On the other hand, with the new GM BuyPower card, just put $2-3M through the credit card and you can get enough for a free car.... the trick is where to spend $2-3M


I just don’t see a dealer caring about the transmission…If I were a car dealer and I noticed I made a higher profit on autos vs a manual, why should I order more manuals? Dealerships do dealer to dealer new car trades all the time so you could get a manual pretty quick if a customer is demanding one...How much demand is there for manuals at all now?
When I bought my CTS, Cadillac of Naperville was forced to take a certain number of manual transmission cars since they were a high volume dealer. They hate it as they always take a bath on them. But it allowed Cadillac to claim a $29,999 starting MSRP when most were $35-40K when well optioned. It's all part of the game. I got my $33K CTS for $23K as a result. Sadly, I think my manual transmission days are over. Because electric vehicles done have a stick shift and so few ICE vehicles come in stick.

You agree to the price over email and you never need to get robbed carrying around up to $43K (this is Volt forum #1 and Bolt forum #2, someone here may want the most expensive model and roughly $43K), if you can somehow find a dealer who sells lots of pickups, not sure I want to carry around $43K…
Where I live, it's the guys who drive the ugliest hooptys that might actually be millionaires. There are plenty of broke people driving fancy pickups.

This is a new car guide but drive it into the ground…I think that’s the extreme minority and most drive into the grounders would buy an used car and here on these forums, we know Volts don’t hold their value making used a great deal while new a horrible deal…
My new Volt was a great deal. $44K MSRP for $21K. Alas, I'm admitting right up front that as soon as I drove it off the lot the entire $21K was gone (100% depreciation). It will be driven into the ground.
 

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My new Volt was a great deal. $44K MSRP for $21K.
You got an incredible deal...Did I remember correctly the MSRP was before the great $5000 haircut but you purchased after it? $7500 for the federal, no idea if you got a state incentive or if you qualified for additional incentives...Also awesome you could use all seven years of points...Rough guess of around $17K-$20K in incentives...Now comes the tricky, the haggle of the sales price...This is where people often fail...One mistake and often the buyer blows their chances of receiving the lowest possible deal...This is where email eliminates a dealers strengths...There's no pressure, you don't have the salesman and sales manager (closer) starring at you and best of all, you're not waiting in the dealership because at worst you could of haggled for hours and end up walking away...

Everything is all about odds, multiple ways to haggle, but odds are had you gone into the dealership and said "I want this $44K car for $21K and am not willing to pay a penny more" the dealer may tell you thanks but no thanks...Often you have play the game, have to go back and forth to get them invested so they ultimately realize they've spent hours on you and want to get you out...Again emailing a great way especially for a bad haggler to get their best deal...
 

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You got an incredible deal...Did I remember correctly the MSRP was before the great $5000 haircut but you purchased after it? $7500 for the federal, no idea if you got a state incentive or if you qualified for additional incentives...Also awesome you could use all seven years of points...Rough guess of around $17K-$20K in incentives...Now comes the tricky, the haggle of the sales price...This is where people often fail...One mistake and often the buyer blows their chances of receiving the lowest possible deal...This is where email eliminates a dealers strengths...There's no pressure, you don't have the salesman and sales manager (closer) starring at you and best of all, you're not waiting in the dealership because at worst you could of haggled for hours and end up walking away...

Everything is all about odds, multiple ways to haggle, but odds are had you gone into the dealership and said "I want this $44K car for $21K and am not willing to pay a penny more" the dealer may tell you thanks but no thanks...Often you have play the game, have to go back and forth to get them invested so they ultimately realize they've spent hours on you and want to get you out...Again emailing a great way especially for a bad haggler to get their best deal...
The state had a 10% off base MSRP at the time (now the rebate program is suspended) so that meant $3914. I had a $1500 trade in (sit was a hoopty, I probably could have gotten more for it, but with all the other discounts, I was willing to let the dealership make a little money off the deal. The dealer already had a $1500 discount because it was an end of year sale. plus they added on around $2600 in a "we pay your state taxes" deal, the reason why this was so much was because the taxes were on the amount after discounts, but before the state Rebate and fed Tax Credit and GM Card rebate. I have the original GM card which netted me about $3600 (usually it is $500/yaer euphoria to 7 years, no per car redemption limits, and at some point I had some special deal where I was able to collect some extra by purchasing things during a particular month). It definitely was the deal of the decade. The planets were in alignment. i wasn't even shopping for a car at the time, but a corworker had just bought a fusion energi, she really wanted the Volt, but didn't want to wait where the Energi was on the lot. She told me about the $5k price drop, my brother in law told me about the state rebate, my GM card was about 9 years in (so I was losing rebates from 8 and 9 years ago), my local dealership 3 miles away from me had the car, and I was blown away by getting the car for less than half price.

I'll probably never be able to come close to such a deal again. I'm saving my pennies for my next car and it will double or even quadruple the most I've ever spent on a car (suburban would be double, a Model S would be quadruple (if I'm booing to spend that much, I might as well get AWD, Autopilot, and the biggest battery they will give me without having to go to a P.
 

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The state had a 10% off base MSRP at the time (now the rebate program is suspended) so that meant $3914. I had a $1500 trade in (sit was a hoopty, I probably could have gotten more for it, but with all the other discounts, I was willing to let the dealership make a little money off the deal. The dealer already had a $1500 discount because it was an end of year sale. plus they added on around $2600 in a "we pay your state taxes" deal, the reason why this was so much was because the taxes were on the amount after discounts, but before the state Rebate and fed Tax Credit and GM Card rebate. I have the original GM card which netted me about $3600 (usually it is $500/yaer euphoria to 7 years, no per car redemption limits, and at some point I had some special deal where I was able to collect some extra by purchasing things during a particular month). It definitely was the deal of the decade. The planets were in alignment. i wasn't even shopping for a car at the time, but a corworker had just bought a fusion energi, she really wanted the Volt, but didn't want to wait where the Energi was on the lot. She told me about the $5k price drop, my brother in law told me about the state rebate, my GM card was about 9 years in (so I was losing rebates from 8 and 9 years ago), my local dealership 3 miles away from me had the car, and I was blown away by getting the car for less than half price.

I'll probably never be able to come close to such a deal again. I'm saving my pennies for my next car and it will double or even quadruple the most I've ever spent on a car (suburban would be double, a Model S would be quadruple (if I'm booing to spend that much, I might as well get AWD, Autopilot, and the biggest battery they will give me without having to go to a P.
Sweet, just to share my own planets aligned deal...I qualified for only a lease conquest, got a $26K MSRP FWD LS MY17 Equinox 24mo 10K miles a year lease for $0 drive off and effective $99.57/mo and this includes expensive 9% L.A. county tax...I pay GMF $130.00/mo for 23 months, I received a $700 Costco Cash card and Costco allows you to convert that cash card into cash at customer service so take that $700 cash, divide by 23 months = $30.43...Take my $130.00 payment, subtract the $30.43 and the (effective) payment is $99.57...Others were able to get better deals due to having the FB and GM points...The mileage could also be increased, about $12/mo to jump to 12K/year and $28/mo (from 10K) to jump to 15K...Also reported GMF will allow 20K/yr leases...
 

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Sweet, just to share my own planets aligned deal...I qualified for only a lease conquest, got a $26K MSRP FWD LS MY17 Equinox 24mo 10K miles a year lease for $0 drive off and effective $99.57/mo and this includes expensive 9% L.A. county tax...I pay GMF $130.00/mo for 23 months, I received a $700 Costco Cash card and Costco allows you to convert that cash card into cash at customer service so take that $700 cash, divide by 23 months = $30.43...Take my $130.00 payment, subtract the $30.43 and the (effective) payment is $99.57...Others were able to get better deals due to having the FB and GM points...The mileage could also be increased, about $12/mo to jump to 12K/year and $28/mo (from 10K) to jump to 15K...Also reported GMF will allow 20K/yr leases...
What is G MF?
 

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I opened up a GM BuyPowerCard in September of this hoping I would get an offer as I though I might buy a Volt before the end of the year. I charged about 1k to it just to put something on it and then paid it off. No offers for me yet. Maybe I will get something sometime this year.
 

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Since you guys are talking about deals. Just curious what happens if you were to pick a Volt that had a $1,000 cash allowance from GM (one of those find your tag deals you see on GM commercials) and the dealer didn't have the Volt marked. You purchase the car but don't get the cash rebate because it wasn't marked and you didn't know about it. Is the dealer liable for this money to the purchaser? Are they just pocketing the money? Unless things have changed, I know rebates are taxable in California where dealer discounts are not. So, the dealer couldn't really hide the rebate in the dealer discount. Here's an example but let's say the dealer doesn't tell you about the Chevrolet Select Model Super Tag Bonus Cash Program 3 - $1,000 but the Chevy inventory shows a bonus tag allowance.

Dealers website:
MSRP $34,095
LT Volt Dealer Discount 1 - $3,200
GM California Resident Rebate 2 - $1,000
Expires : 1/31/17
Price Before Incentives $29,895
Chevrolet Select Model Super Tag Bonus Cash Program 3 - $1,000
Expires : 1/31/17
Best Price $28,895
Savings $5,200

What i find odd is that the Chevy inventory site doesn't always list multiple rebates and sometimes list too many rebates. It just seems confusing to me and thus a shopper can't be truly informed. Maybe I am missing something here. I am I?

This one shows Tag Bonus but not California Resident Rebate.
MSRP Standard Vehicle Price $33,220.00
INSTALLED OPTIONS TOTAL $745.00
Summit White $0.00
Light Ash/Dark Ash, Cloth seat trim $0.00
Destination Freight Charge $875.00
TOTAL MSRP $34,840.00
Bonus Tag Cash Allowance - $1,000.00
PRICE (AFTER ALL OFFERS) $33,840

But this one shows California Resident Rebate.
MSRP Standard Vehicle Price $33,220.00
INSTALLED OPTIONS TOTAL $0.00
Heather Gray Metallic $0.00
Jet Black/Jet Black, Cloth seat trim $0.00
Destination Freight Charge $875.00
TOTAL MSRP $34,095.00
Total Cash Allowance - $1,000.00
PRICE $33,095

This one is even more bizarre where it shows $3,000 in rebates on the Chevy inventory website when there are only two rebates available that I know of (Bonus Tag and California Resident Rebate) but on the dealer website it is listed correctly with the rest of the money being a dealer discount.
MSRP Standard Vehicle Price $33,220.00
INSTALLED OPTIONS TOTAL $1,645.00
Heather Gray Metallic $0.00
Jet Black/Jet Black, Leather-appointed seat trim $0.00
Destination Freight Charge $875.00
TOTAL MSRP $35,740.00
Bonus Tag Cash Allowance - $3,000.00

Same Volt as above but listed on Dealers website:
MSRP $35,740
LT Volt Dealer Discount 1 - $3,200
GM California Resident Rebate 2 - $1,000
Expires : 1/31/17
Price Before Incentives $31,540
Chevrolet Select Model Super Tag Bonus Cash Program 3 - $1,000
Expires : 1/31/17
Best Price $30,540
Savings $5,200
PRICE (AFTER ALL OFFERS) $32,740.00
 
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