GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to post my recent experience. Started looking for a replacement Volt lease (my 2014 lease was ending) back in February. Visited multiple Southern California dealerships. A lot of pressure at that time to act now while the President's Day sales were in effect. You know the refrain -- "At the start of the month, the old incentives end and we never know what new incentives will be in place..." i.e. act now, the price may go up after the 1st.

Well, come March 1st, no real changes. Come April 1st, no real changes.

Interesting data points for me, and I was glad to see I didn't miss some incredible deal by not jumping at the first car I saw. I still got President's Day sale prices in April. It took the pressure off me of needing to buy, say, at the end of the month when they're supposedly trying to make their quotas etc. Prices got no better, or worse.

Second, I went to Rydell, Community, Keyes, Sierra, and several other SC dealerships. Went to the mat over similar cars -- literally spent five hours hammering out a deal at Rydell, but didn't take it because it was my first go-round and I thought I might do better. Had a handshake at Sierra for a similar car, wound up at almost exacty the same price point, but something came up, didn't buy the car. Basically every dealership had almost the exact same figures, and I had all sorts of complications to add in -- trade in, extra warranty, etc etc. Complex deal, nearly the same numbers from everyone.

Finally picked up my car at Keyes because they had a color I liked. But I would have done equally well at any of the dealerships, in my opinion. (Win started way high out of the box, didn't try to negotiate them down. Probably would have gotten them down to the same exact number.)

My takeaway from all this -- I spent WAY too much time haggling with multiple dealers if my only intention was to get the best price. They all gave me the same monthly payment within $10-20 (depending on exact car specs). My time wasn't wasted, however, as it let me become familiar with every flavor of the car and decide several times that this was the car for me.

End result -- I've got a great Volt (the current iteration is amazing) and I'm happy with the price.

So if you're in the market, I'd say don't expect great variation in price between dealerships (ie Rydell isn't necessarily the cheapest), and don't feel if you don't buy at the end of the month you're not getting the best deal you could (the sale prices keep coming).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,156 Posts
Timing is important but it's difficult to predict. A few months ago there were better deals. Then I think GM closed the plant because of the inventory situation in general, inventories dropped, and the price has moved back up.

Agree that prices tend to be similar with some exceptions. GM runs specials to move certain vehicles at certain times. That can make a difference. Sometimes by moving more cars dealers qualify for higher holdbacks. That can make a difference as well. But overall the margin on new cars is small and dealers aren't going to sell a vehicle at a loss, so usually there isn't a huge difference in price.

Usually don't spend more than an hour or so negotiating a deal. (Never have closed one using email or text. Maybe that's the next level?). Would never go to a dealer to do that. Hard to see the advantages of in in-person visit. Involving a floor salesperson just adds cost to the transaction and you're on their hometurf. Plus it's easier to call another dealer than to leave and drive there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,468 Posts
People who get the lowest prices do all the haggling with multiple dealers over email...You first go to your local dealer to test drive different trims and note options you like, often you can do this during a lunch break as you always have the "excuse" that you only have 30mins and don't have time to talk pricing but will take a salesman's card...Once you decide what trim, options and colors you want, email that to at least 10 dealership internet managers...Sit back, relax and let the emails come in...Often half the emails will be ignored which is fine because they saw the "lead" and knew they couldn't compete on price...Get offers, haggle/make counter offers and you'll get the best price without wasting your time playing useless games waiting at the stealership...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
My personal approach is to "know what a great deal is" before I even attempt a negotiation. For me, I truly only negotiate with myself. Once I have agree on a price range for myself, it is simply getting a dealer to agree on that price. I have found this approach to be a wonderful experience opposed to anything else. It does take some homework and careful planning, but it is my approach and I enjoy it very much. And the lowest price, which we all want, sometimes isn't the best overall experience either, including the sale, before and after. I like my approach very much and just negotiated a recent price on a left over 2016 Premier that I am picking up tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,468 Posts
My personal approach is to "know what a great deal is" before I even attempt a negotiation. For me, I truly only negotiate with myself. Once I have agree on a price range for myself, it is simply getting a dealer to agree on that price. I have found this approach to be a wonderful experience opposed to anything else. It does take some homework and careful planning, but it is my approach and I enjoy it very much. And the lowest price, which we all want, sometimes isn't the best overall experience either, including the sale, before and after. I like my approach very much and just negotiated a recent price on a left over 2016 Premier that I am picking up tomorrow.
Nice, did you already share the details somewhere?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,468 Posts
To piggy back off of what everyone including DonC and Firehawk said...

With pricing:

1. Determine what the GM (not dealership) incentives are...
2. Determine if you qualify for the targeted incentives, if you do not qualify on the surface, spend another 10mins googling to determine if there are loopholes/exceptions to qualify...You can be sure if there's a way to qualify someone bragged about it on reddit or deal reporting sites...
3. Google the deal reporting sites to see if you can find a previously reported deal, may even get a specific salesperson where you can say "I saw you gave so and so this deal, if you're able to match I can buy today/this weekend"

Private message sent to you.
Thanks and replied...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,130 Posts
(Never have closed one using email or text. Maybe that's the next level?). Would never go to a dealer to do that. Hard to see the advantages of in in-person visit. Involving a floor salesperson just adds cost to the transaction and you're on their hometurf. Plus it's easier to call another dealer than to leave and drive there.
I always open and close the deal with email. I love using email because I have proof. Once the deal is sealed with email, then I will call and introduce myself and simply make arrangement for shipping or pickup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
If you leased can you PM me with the deal you got as well?

My wife's car will be paid off next month and I am debating a lease or finance a purchase... negotiating a purchase is pretty straight forward, but lease deals have so many variables, trying to collect as much info from everyone I can to know what's fair.

I appreciate all the advice in this thread... buying a car is such a nightmare.

When I got my wife's car was the worst, because she insisted on coming along, and couldn't have made the salesman's job easier, fell for all the tactics, when I argued with the salesman she was on the salesman's side (!) and wanted to just take the first offer and go, etc.

This time I want the deal done before I even go in there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,156 Posts
I always open and close the deal with email. I love using email because I have proof. Once the deal is sealed with email, then I will call and introduce myself and simply make arrangement for shipping or pickup.
Of course. I wouldn't know how to open without email and a confirming email if necessary will eliminate any questions. Wouldn't want to negotiate via email though. Might be clumsy. On the other hand I'm willing to be flexible on some things like color so that might also be a factor.

My wife's car will be paid off next month and I am debating a lease or finance a purchase... negotiating a purchase is pretty straight forward, but lease deals have so many variables, trying to collect as much info from everyone I can to know what's fair.
The good news is there isn't a lot of difference. There aren't that many variables other than purchase price which the dealer can change. The big factors generally not under dealer control are the residual, the money factor, and lease cash (usually the part of the tax credit you are given). Smaller charges like acquisition and disposition fees are also set by the lessor. So the negotiation with the dealer is over the purchase price, which is the same for leasing or buying. In fact I always negotiate the purchase price before deciding whether to lease or purchase. If I did want to lease, I would still negotiate price first, telling the dealer I wasn't sure which route I wanted to take, before disclosing that I wanted to lease.

The important thing is that you understand how the lease works and what the dealer can negotiate. Firehawk72's advice on doing homework is just as relevant here as it is for pricing. Note that the one thing you do not want to do is to negotiate the monthly directly. You negotiate all the factors and the monthly is what it is. If you try and negotiate the monthly you run the risk of getting a bad deal based on higher down payments or longer lease terms or lower mileage allowances. The salesperson can toss these around so easily your head will be spinning! LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,468 Posts
The important thing is that you understand how the lease works and what the dealer can negotiate. Firehawk72's advice on doing homework is just as relevant here as it is for pricing. Note that the one thing you do not want to do is to negotiate the monthly directly. You negotiate all the factors and the monthly is what it is. If you try and negotiate the monthly you run the risk of getting a bad deal based on higher down payments or longer lease terms or lower mileage allowances. The salesperson can toss these around so easily your head will be spinning! LOL
So a lease is always the best when you get it $0 down because in the event of a total loss, you don't lose money...If you do an one pay lease, you may be left to battle with your insurance company & GAP insurance policy (which is often capped) over who pays what...Additionally, in the CARB states you get your first payment waived (under current and previous incentives, may change in the future)...An increasing popular haggle technique is to only haggle on $0 and the payment...Reach out to 3 dealers, one says $0 drive off and $300/mo, one says $0 drive off and $275/mo and one says $0 drive off and $325/mo...It's pretty simple to pick...

With all that being said it doesn't supersede doing your homework...Also there is still some shady practices out there in regards to $0 due at signing...I encountered this several times where I was told $0 drive off only to show up and either the dealer claimed they can't do true zero down, I HAVE to pay the $300ish DMV fees up front but that wasn't included in the haggle...Another dealer said "$0 drive off" only to show up and it was $1500, obviously pushing the fact the $1500 CA incentive would zero that out but again, no mention of that during the haggle...During March 2016, two members along with myself had a written price, one member showed up to the dealer and told us they wouldn't honor the price so we moved on...Overall point being, just because something is in writing it still isn't a done deal and if they try to deviate from the written price just tell them "email me when you're ready to honor the price" and walk out...

The DTLA dealer I always recommend didn't play games and told me use the term "ZERO OUT OF POCKET" from now on...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
I really enjoyed reading your post as you did a thorough job in shopping for a Volt. It sounds like buying from Keyes was based on inventory availability which we work hard on having. There is something not written often and that is we (Keyes) and me (Rick Alpern) have always made it quick , simple and very fair priced. Sometimes we are the best and sometimes someone can save 10 dollars or so from the deal of the day. We just offer the same great deal since 2011 and we have sold over 3500 vehicles from these forum postings. My point is simple we alleviate all the hassle for those who trust and believe in our process. As a GM and Partner in Keyes Chevy give my cell 818 231 1286 out and if I do not get back to you someone does usually within minutes. I would like other members to chime in on that. This weekend I am releasing four vehicles similar to this.
2017 VOLT PREMIER HATCHBACK GENERAL MOTORS LLC
GB8 MOSAIC BLACK METALLIC /L4G
H0Y JET BLACK W/ JET BLACK ACCENT RENAISSANCE CENTER
ORDER NO. TJTJ06/TRE STOCK NO. DETROIT MI 48243-1114
VIN 1G1 RD6S 50 HU112950 VEHICLE INVOICE 1OD48888217
*****************************************************0128******13*20041S
MODEL & FACTORY OPTIONS MSRP INV AMT RETAIL - STOCK
1RG68 VOLT PREMIER HATCHBACK 37570.00 36067.20 INVOICE 07/18/16
IO6 CHEVROLET MYLINK RADIO 495.00 450.45 SHIPPED 07/18/16
W/ NAVIGATION EXP I/T 07/31/16
KSG ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL WITH 595.00 541.45 INT COM 08/01/16
FULL SPEED FRONT AUTOMATIC PRC EFF 06/13/16
BRAKING KEYS Z3189 Z3189
L3A ENGINE, RANGE EXTENDER, 1.5L N/C N/C WFP-S MTH OPT-2
PCV LOW EMISSIONS PACKAGE N/C N/C BANK: COMERICA BA
V7X DRIVER CONFIDENCE 1 PACKAGE 495.00 450.45 CHG-TO 20-041
* SIDE BLIND ZONE ALERT WITH
LANE CHANGE ALERT SHIP WT: 3509
* REAR CROSS TRAFFIC ALERT HP: 13.5
V7Y DRIVER CONFIDENCE 2 PACKAGE: 495.00 450.45 EMPLOY: 37713.16
* LANE KEEP ASSIST SUPPLR: 39239.75
* FORWARD AUTOMATIC BRAKING,LOW EMPINC: 2340.00
SPEED SUPINC: 813.41
* HEADLAMPS, INTELLIBEAM
* FORWARD COLLISION ALERT
YF5 50-STATE EMISSIONS N/C N/C
62G ILLUMINATED CHARGE PORT 225.00 204.75
(DEALER INSTALLED)














TOTAL MODEL & OPTIONS 39875.00 38164.75 ACT 231 37843.50
DESTINATION CHARGE 875.00 875.00 H/B 261 1196.25
DEALER IMR CONTRIBUTION 398.75 ADV 261 398.75
LMA GROUP CONTRIBUTION 398.75 EXP 65A 398.75


TOTAL 40750.00 39837.25 PAY 310 39837.25
MEMO: TOTAL LESS HOLDBACK AND
APPROX WHOLESALE FINANCE CREDIT 38077.45
***********************************************************************
INVOICE DOES NOT REFLECT DEALER'S ULTIMATE COST BECAUSE OF MANUFACTURER
REBATES, ALLOWANCES, INCENTIVES, HOLDBACK, FINANCE CREDIT AND RETURN TO
DEALER OF ADVERTISING MONIES, ALL OF WHICH MAY APPLY TO VEHICLE.
***********************************************************************



KEYES CHEVROLET

These four are service loaners and here is a sample deal.
1500 total out of pocket from customer. 10 k lease 12k is 15 a more.
Deal includes Customer to have a current lease. If not 500 more down is needed to get to same payment.

259.00 OTD for 35 additional months !

So these are 40k plus units at 259.00 a month.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,156 Posts
So a lease is always the best when you get it $0 down because in the event of a total loss, you don't lose money...

With all that being said it doesn't supersede doing your homework...Also there is still some shady practices out there in regards to $0 due at signing...I encountered this several times where I was told $0 drive off only to show up and either the dealer claimed they can't do true zero down, I HAVE to pay the $300ish DMV fees up front but that wasn't included in the haggle...Another dealer said "$0 drive off" only to show up and it was $1500, obviously pushing the fact the $1500 CA incentive would zero that out but again, no mention of that during the haggle...
The point about being better off with zero down and GAP insurance than a large down and GAP insurance is a very good one. It's also why you likely don't want to pay for GAP insurance on a used car. Same reason why paying cash for a car is more risky than financing. However, the value of having less money into the vehicle has to be discounted by the likelihood you'll total the car (doesn't have to be a horrendous accident for this to happen).

Don't totally agree on the disclosures during the haggle. Agree that counting the CA rebate as the down or part of the down is disingenuous. But the DMV fees are different. Because those are fees you pay to the state and aren't part of the transaction between you and the dealer, I wouldn't expect them to be part of the negotiation. Like sales taxes, they aren't negotiable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,468 Posts
The point about being better off with zero down and GAP insurance than a large down and GAP insurance is a very good one. It's also why you likely don't want to pay for GAP insurance on a used car. Same reason why paying cash for a car is more risky than financing. However, the value of having less money into the vehicle has to be discounted by the likelihood you'll total the car (doesn't have to be a horrendous accident for this to happen).

Don't totally agree on the disclosures during the haggle. Agree that counting the CA rebate as the down or part of the down is disingenuous. But the DMV fees are different. Because those are fees you pay to the state and aren't part of the transaction between you and the dealer, I wouldn't expect them to be part of the negotiation. Like sales taxes, they aren't negotiable.
Yes, it should be noted that with GAP that it is capped and you're somewhat a slave to both your residual and resale value to determine how much GAP is going to cover...In most circumstances, as long as you make your payments ontime you're fine...I also wanted to point out that GMF with leases has and currently does (anything can change in the future) does have GAP built in which is a great perk especially for those who don't really understand nor care to learn about a lease...

I believe you misunderstood on the disclosures, incuding the DMV fees, I laid out everything and clearly in a numbered format...Worse for this guy, he even included the tax and document fee, the ONLY thing missing from this "zero drive off" deal was the $300ish DMV fees I had to pay out of pocket...I showed him the email and he told me his dealership won't allow a true zero down deal...I offered to pay the fees out of pocket as long as they take off the sales price, wasted an hour with dealer games so I walked, used a fake phone number so I never received weeks of daily phone calls...Pretty much the story with the $1500 drive off place...

A couple more tips I'll add, the old "that car was sold"...Always ask if the deal is available for other vehicles with the same configuration...

Lastly, the best deals out there are service loaners which can be leased and Rick from Keyes does have some...I'd at least look at his service loaner offerings and see if you like the options and if you do consider making it a top priority to getting there because odds are the loaners won't last long...Often dealers use them as a last resort tool to prevent someone from walking after negotiations on the new vehicle breakdown...
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top