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Discussion Starter #1
My 2013 Volt has an intermittent problem--the driver's door handle power lock switch won't lock or unlock intermittently. It first happened about a month ago. I set up an appointment with the dealer and it suddenly started working again two days before the appointment date. So I cancelled the appointment; I know the technicians can't diagnose it if they can't duplicate it. The condition reappeared a week or so later; I thought that this time I'd wait a full week or more to make sure the condition will be present when I set up a new appointment. Darned if it didn't start working again on Friday and it's worked every time I've tried it since.

When the condition is present only the driver's door switch is affected. The three other doors, the RKE and the switch on the stack all operate as designed. A search of this forum didn't turn up anything relevant, but I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and what the fix was. Has GM released any bulletins on this? Admittedly, this is a very minor inconvenience as I can always tap the rear door switch, the RKE, or even use the physical key to gain entry. This is a GM Certified Pre-Owned car, so I'd like to get it fixed while the warranty is still in effect. Thanks for reading this post.
 

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When I got my used 2013 the right rear request switch did not work. I removed the door panel and discovered the wire was not plugged into the door handle! It is a small 2-wire connector. Perhaps yours is not plugged in all the way or is loose. I plugged mine in fully and it has worked fine since.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip. Voganni. That's something I can look at when the condition recurs. Were there any surprises in removing the door trim panel?
 

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Best to obtain a plastic door panel tool to pry them off. I used a gasket scraper and wrapped it with electrical tape so as not to scratch the door frame. There is a small plastic piece behind the inside door latch. One corner of it has a little angle relief creating a tiny triangular hole. This allows you to insert a pick to remove the cover without damaging it. Behind the cover is a screw you also need to remove. There are also two screws under the rubber piece in the bottom of the armrest. You do not need to remove the window switches. The entire front door panel comes off as one piece, unhooking at the top. The interior door handle is attached to a cable which is removed by rotating it to disengage the cable end from the door latch. Then you need to carefully peel back the moisture barrier (It's a tough plastic that won't tear, and has some large dimples that align it.) Then you can look in and see the outer door handle with the small wire plugged into it. If your car is still under warranty, you may want to let the dealer do it! I started with my rear door, fixed the disconnected wire, then moved to the driver's door to fix a creak in the window, which I diagnosed as the window track in front was too tight. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Voganni, thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I've removed trim panels from older cars but they were upholstered Masonite. I thought there'd be challenges for me in removing a plastic panel and I see there certainly are. The screw behind the latch would have been a surprise, as well as the door handle cable; I would expect to see handle and lock rods. Thanks for setting me straight on this.

I think I'll wait to see if I can get it to the service department with the condition present while it's under the CPO 12/12 warranty. The key is getting it there while it's doing it. I wouldn't expect a flat rate tech to go through all that to R&R the trim panel if it's not doing it; it'd seem like a wild goose chase to him or her and I wouldn't blame them for feeling that way.

Thanks again,
Don
 
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