[emartin00]

If you're buying it from a dealer, I would have the fix the window switch before you buy it. It's pretty minimal cost to them, but I imagine it would put off a lot of buyers.
A scratch is what you make of it. If it is down to bare metal, you're at least going to want to touch it up. I don't baby my cars too much, so they're bound to get a few small dents and scratches after a few years.

It's hard to comment on the engine without hearing it first hand.

 

[kns]

If a used Volt isn't certified pre owned and with an extended warranty I wouldn't touch it.

KNS

 

[Barry]

I would wait for a Volt that does not have any worrying symptoms. The price isn't good enough to take any extra risks to get it. Volts are complex and, it seems, hard to repair. I wouldn't want to buy one that might already have problems. The scratch and window wouldn't bother me too much, but a possible engine issue is different, and all added together means I would want an irresistible price to be interested.

Also keep in mind that a window switch is cheap and easy to replace, so why didn't the dealer just fix it to make it more marketable? Maybe the problem is more than just the switch and they are not telling you that. Not having a working driver's window can be inconvenient, so you are not going to want to live with it. Even if it is the motor, the fix is not prohibitive, but if it is some electrical gremlin, then it might develop into other issues which you certainly don't want. One way to possibly diagnose if it is truly the switch is to push or pull very hard on the switch. If that makes it work, even intermittently, then it is the switch.

 

[jbakerjonathan]

In my experience, a dealer will generally fix what you complain about. They want to make the sale. I would insist on the repair of the switch and repainting the scratch. As for the engine, I would try to make a comparison between my old Volt and the one you are interested in buying by having the ICE run with the hood up and comparing the sounds they make. That may not work as the rpm can't be varied AFAIK, and the noise you sense may occur when the ICE is under load.

My advice is not to close the deal until you are satisfied with the car.

 

[HVolt]

What is the lifetime MPG on the car? If it has a low lifetime MPG from not charging, and the engine doesn't sound right then I would stay away. The prior owner may have been using the wrong fuel. As you probably know the engine will have a louder sound when the battery is fully depleted until it rebuilds a buffer. Take it on a longer test drive to see if it changes.

 

[PolkSDA]

Base with 53k at that price? Hell no. You can find premiums with miles in the 30s for close to that price.

 

[ciscovet]

I would not purchase the car if you have any reservations. Go with your gut instinct on this one. I don't know what your price range is but there are other ones out there..

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...=true&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true

If you don't mind driving to tampa, check out these guys. Bought my Volt from them without any hassles. Pretty much did everything online and spent about 30 min there. For a couple grand more you can get a lower mileage fully loaded car.

http://www.tampabayautonetwork.com/used-chevrolet-volt/

 

[bro1999]

This is my second volt, and I test drove it today, its a 2013 Volt Base with 53,588 miles for $14950. Problems I found were that it had a deep scratch near the hatch and the driver side window switch was broken. The problem that scares me the most is that the gas engine idles kind of loud compared to my last volt when its running on electricity. This is maybe something I never noticed on my last volt but could have occurred.

I know its not a great deal especially after dealer fees (16k after taxes and fees), but its the cheapest 2013 I've found in Orlando.

Please comment asap, I'm gonna close the deal tomorrow!

I would pass (on both the current problems and price).

 

[norcalkrautnit]

This is my second volt, and I test drove it today, its a 2013 Volt Base with 53,588 miles for $14950. Problems I found were that it had a deep scratch near the hatch and the driver side window switch was broken. The problem that scares me the most is that the gas engine idles kind of loud compared to my last volt when its running on electricity. This is maybe something I never noticed on my last volt but could have occurred.

I know its not a great deal especially after dealer fees (16k after taxes and fees), but its the cheapest 2013 I've found in Orlando.

Please comment asap, I'm gonna close the deal tomorrow!

jcnas - Before you decide to buy a used Volt (with known and unknown problems, and 54k on the odometer) for $15k, you really should consider buying a new one. I don't want to trash the market for used, but with the incentives available from the dealer, manufacturer, and government (at least the Feds - I don't know what Florida offers buyers of EVs), you can pick up a brand new Volt for not much more than $15k (before taxes/fees, just like your used deal). I just did a quick check in Central Florida, and Dimmitt has a $36,128 MSRP Volt advertised for $24,997. You'll need to check applicability of rebates/incentives, but it's worth at least considering. A Private Offer (available on chevrolet.com or cars.com) will kick in $1000. Assuming Florida has no EV rebate program, you should at least be able to make use of the $7500 Fed tax credit. Assuming you do, that $24,997 reduces to $17,497. That's only $2.5k more than your used 2-3 year old Volt with a lot of miles and wear and tear (and no warranty except on the electric drivetrain). If you're planning to finance, the 0% GM financing is likely to save you at least a couple grand over traditional 4-5% financing for used cars.

By the way, if you still have your first Volt, there's a $2500 Volt-to-Volt loyalty discount from GM.

Good luck whichever way you decide to go

 

[jcnas]

Yeah the cheapest 'new' volt i can get is 29k with all rebates and discounts. Keep in mind where I live, Orlando FL. Car prices are higher.

I am looking for a 2013 unless theres a 2012 premium at an unbeatable price,(12-14k no issues).

The 2013 bases dont go under 15.5
Premiums dont go under 16.6

These are advertised prices, the you got to add dealer fees, tag, title. I want to be under 16.6 out the door but it is impossible.

 

[VoltenRock]

They should be willing to move the '13 if you make a firm offer, maybe for 14K + fix the problems. My '13 had the "rattle" from the engine at certain RPMs, caused by some loose clips in the exhaust. I think there was a TSB on it. Is this a Chevy dealer?

In my experience, dealerships with little/no Volts like to move them off their lots because they don't normally sell many of them, think people won't buy them, salespeople don't know how to sell them, etc. You might get lucky. Good luck.

 

[jcnas]

I bought a white CPO 2013 "Premium" 32k miles for 15.8k came out to a little under 18k out the door, I'm not very happy about it, it doesn't even have the rear view camera or parking sensors -_- I don't get why its called premium. The almost sold me on the GM warranty and I have till Monday to come back and get it. Thoughts?

 

[VoltenRock]

Does it have leather? Bose? Heated seats? No NAV I take it, as I think that comes with the rear camera.

KBB puts the fair market range at 15.8k-19.8k in my area for a CPO 2013 with a little less miles (not sure where you are). Seems to me that you probably paid market rate. Could you get a better deal? Maybe. But if you already signed the papers, I'm not sure what recourse you have in your state to cancel the contract. Some states have a three-day "buyer's remorse" allowance, but not all.

If you overall like the car, minus a few features you wish you had, and it seems in good shape, I would think twice about going through the ordeal of finding another one. Although I love the game of "getting the deal"--most don't like the car buying process and why go through it if you like the car (enough) and you're not getting a horrible deal according to KBB.

You'll love the Volt. Just make sure you take advantage of that CPO warranty to take care of any nagging issues that may crop up.

 

[HVolt]

I bought a white CPO 2013 "Premium" 32k miles for 15.8k came out to a little under 18k out the door, I'm not very happy about it, it doesn't even have the rear view camera or parking sensors -_- I don't get why its called premium. The almost sold me on the GM warranty and I have till Monday to come back and get it. Thoughts?

For the rear parking sensors and camera you would also need the "safety 1" package. Safety 2 adds front parking sensors, lane departure and forward collision warning. These are certainly good to have (I wish I had added safety 2 for the front parking sensors). Your price is in the range. I've found Edmunds TMV estimates to match well with actual selling prices.

 

[jcnas]

Should I buy the extended GM warranty? its 1750 extra for 45k miles, says it covers everything with a $100 deductible. He said a vehicle like the volt needs a warranty.

 

[HVolt]

I would reserve the money in a savings account if you're concerned about future repairs. Buying extended warranties rarely make economic sense, and the Volt has been proven to be a reliable car.

Keep in mind the powertrain and battery tech already have an 8 year/100k mile warranty.