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Yesterday I decided to rotate my tires and adjust the pressure to avoid the under inflated symptoms we all experience and what should have been a relatively easy and rotation turned into a unnecessary problem.

At first I thought that my Chevy dealer hired freaking King Kong to tighten my lug nuts. I broke a Craftman USA made tool in the process... Knowing I had to be careful due to the multiple broken lug studs threads here, I've seen here I was not happy. Most of the Volt's lug nuts are damaged because the dealer used a short socket to tighten and mid lug nut they are twisted so the proper long 19 mm socket won't fit all the way.

After further inspection of the studs, there is an obvious blue residue on them, like if the tech used blue thread locker on the lug nuts...

Has this happened to someone else?

I can see why Tesla doesn't want to deal with franchise dealers, on two different dealers, the first one backed an SUV into my car while "detailing it" where they had to replace the hood and front bumper, sprayed acid wheel cleaner and damaged the anodized gold finish on the calipers and now this...

I love the Volt but dealing with incompetent dealers will very likely steer me away from GM during my next purchase.
 

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Yesterday I decided to rotate my tires and adjust the pressure to avoid the under inflated symptoms we all experience and what should have been a relatively easy and rotation turned into a unnecessary problem.

At first I thought that my Chevy dealer hired freaking King Kong to tighten my lug nuts. I broke a Craftman USA made tool in the process... Knowing I had to be careful due to the multiple broken lug studs threads here, I've seen here I was not happy. Most of the Volt's lug nuts are damaged because the dealer used a short socket to tighten and mid lug nut they are twisted so the proper long 19 mm socket won't fit all the way.

After further inspection of the studs, there is an obvious blue residue on them, like if the tech used blue thread locker on the lug nuts...

Has this happened to someone else?

I can see why Tesla doesn't want to deal with franchise dealers, on two different dealers, the first one backed an SUV into my car while "detailing it" where they had to replace the hood and front bumper, sprayed acid wheel cleaner and damaged the anodized gold finish on the calipers and now this...

I love the Volt but dealing with incompetent dealers will very likely steer me away from GM during my next purchase.
Where does 'Diversity Hiring' come into play here?

What you've described could have happened at any shop, any dealership, anywhere. This is hardly a GM thing. Let's be real here...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Where does 'Diversity Hiring' come into play here?

What you've described could have happened at any shop, any dealership, anywhere. This is hardly a GM thing. Let's be real here...

Where I mentioned they hired King Kong. I mean, I'm all up for imaginary, ex movie star monster community integration, but come on!

Yes this is hardly a GM thing, but the Volt is and I am tired of settling for incompetent service, throwing my hands in the air and saying "oh, it could be worse..." This should not happen, period.
 

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I don't think you are seeing blue "threadlocker" on your wheel studs. Not a Volt, but I had a flat on my new Impala the other day and changed the tire. The wheel studs looked just like the ones in your photo. I looks like a coating on the stud, not something added. That being said, I would be really upset with the over torque of the lug nuts. There is no excuse for that or for the use of a short or other than a 6 point socket for removing or installing the nuts. Over torque can stretch the studs and the aluminum wheels can be damaged in the area where the lug nut pilots. In some cars, over torque can even deform the brake rotors to the point of having pulsing in the brakes. Most good tire shops use torque limiters (a small diameter extension) on their impact wrench to prevent over torque from a careless employee and then do the final tightening with a torque wrench. I usually rotate my tires by myself as I have had similar experiences in the past.
 

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I’m not a fan of your reference to diversity hiring. Too easy for that to be offensive to someone, even if it is a misunderstanding of your intent. Not sure if you can edit a title, but I would appreciate it if you would. I don’t really like posting in a thread or on a forum with offensive stuff posted. It makes it look like I agree with it, which I do not.

The blue may not be Loctite. The entire bolt has an even blue coating on it, even at the tip. I wouldn’t expect Loctite residue to be that even.

If it is Loctite, then yes, that would be wrong and I would complain to the shop. You can ask for an adjustment, but the likelihood you would get any money out of them without using a gun is small.

Most likely they were just over-tightened. The twisted nuts support that. Also, over time, corrosion and/or seizing can make things worse, and that part is not really the fault of the installer.

I agree it is frustrating when these kinds of things are done to your car. I have seen similar things many times. But it happens in every shop. The only real way to avoid it is to do exactly what you are doing. Do the maintenance yourself whenever possible.
 

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If it were me, I would ask for a set of new lug nuts and go to a different dealer for the next rotation.

However, over-torquing is something I have experienced everywhere, from dealers to tire centers to repair shops. Blaming the car for this is a bit extreme, but to each their own. I do my own rotations now.
 

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The coating on the bolt is far too consistent to be thread locker. It is probably a coating applied by the factory.
The twisted lug nuts definitely points to them being over tightened. I would have drive it to the dealer and made them replace them as soon as I noticed it.
Also, get yourself a good quality impact wrench. It will make removing the lug nuts much easier. The impacts will loosen the lug nuts better, and avoid damaging the studs. Your jack method, although clever, is not great for the studs. Long, prolonged torque could cause the studs to twist and break much faster than quick, repeated impacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The coating on the bolt is far too consistent to be thread locker. It is probably a coating applied by the factory.
The twisted lug nuts definitely points to them being over tightened. I would have drive it to the dealer and made them replace them as soon as I noticed it.
Also, get yourself a good quality impact wrench. It will make removing the lug nuts much easier. The impacts will loosen the lug nuts better, and avoid damaging the studs. Your jack method, although clever, is not great for the studs. Long, prolonged torque could cause the studs to twist and break much faster than quick, repeated impacts.
I have a good impact wrench, I shouldn't have needed it if the tech would have torqued the lug nuts to 100 lbs/ft as he should have been trained or as specified in the service manual. Again, the problem is not the lack of the impact wrench, is the incompetence that we all take for granted when we visit a dealer and it should not be that way.
 

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I have a good impact wrench, I shouldn't have needed it if the tech would have torqued the lug nuts to 100 lbs/ft as he should have been trained or as specified in the service manual. Again, the problem is not the lack of the impact wrench, is the incompetence that we all take for granted when we visit a dealer and it should not be that way.
So, you validated the lug nuts were not torqued to 100 before you tried to remove them?
 

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So, you validated the lug nuts were not torqued to 100 before you tried to remove them?
No, I did not validated it, what good would come out of me doing so other than to satisfy your curiosity? My 1/2 inch torque wrench goes up to 150 lbs/ft. I managed a Cooper Tire shop in Puerto Rico for various years, I am a licensed gas engine mechanic, I have owned and continue to own various cars and motorcycles that I still work on, I used my 215 lbs body on a breaker bar and couldn't move it, I also saw the lug nuts twisted so I am certain they were over torqued over the 100 lbs/ft requirement as per the service manual. I can easily twist the required 100 lbs/ft with a normal ratchet wrench, it is even easier with a breaker bar.

I don't want anything from the dealer other than for them to do a proper job. What confidence do I have in them if they can't get a rotation right when the time comes to reprogram a module or replace a battery section.

Again, I can see why Tesla is fighting so much to maintain control of their dealers when franchise dealers can't get something as simple as a tire rotation right.
 

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Ohh. I want to be angry too. Let me see ... Elon Musk? No. OK. Irrational Tesla Fanbois? No. Problems with my Volt? No.

Well that settles it. I can't be angry.

I hope things go better for the OP.
 

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No, I did not validated it, what good would come out of me doing so other than to satisfy your curiosity? My 1/2 inch torque wrench goes up to 150 lbs/ft. I managed a Cooper Tire shop in Puerto Rico for various years, I am a licensed gas engine mechanic, I have owned and continue to own various cars and motorcycles that I still work on, I used my 215 lbs body on a breaker bar and couldn't move it, I also saw the lug nuts twisted so I am certain they were over torqued over the 100 lbs/ft requirement as per the service manual. I can easily twist the required 100 lbs/ft with a normal ratchet wrench, it is even easier with a breaker bar.

I don't want anything from the dealer other than for them to do a proper job. What confidence do I have in them if they can't get a rotation right when the time comes to reprogram a module or replace a battery section.

Again, I can see why Tesla is fighting so much to maintain control of their dealers when franchise dealers can't get something as simple as a tire rotation right.
It would ensure they were over tightened or show you are making an assumption :)

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I feel your pain OP. I tend to agree with Joe67 too. This is definitely not unique to a GM dealership. My wife has an Acura TSX and her dealer destroyed her oil pan drain plug so bad that I couldn't hardly get it off. Actually, I think I'm lucky I ever did. I've sort of come to the conclusion that if you want something done right, you should do it yourself. No one else cares as much about your car as you do. This is especially true for routine maintenance, where a dealership probably allocates it's least experienced/capable employees (as it should).
 

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I've yet to have any shop NOT over torque lug nuts, until I got this car. I think that's only because the factory torque spec is higher than most, lol. I've been to nearly every tire and wheel shop in the bay area, and they all over torque, period. It was really fun with a Mazda Protege, that had a spec of 66-80. Every darn shop would get them 100+. It got so bad, that after a while, the studs where so stretched out, that factory torque would no longer stay put. If I torqued them to 80, they'd loosen up! Problem is, the air impact wrench they use to spin 'em off, is the same one they use to put 'em back. It's usually set to 100 ft-lbs, if not more, assuming the shop even bothered to get the adjustable ones.

The only solution I've found, is to be a you-know-what about it. Make if very clear, that if they over torque those bolts, they're going to be replacing the the hub, studs and all. I've found this works about 80% of the time. When they still mess it up, it's usually not as bad. I just rotate the darn things myself now, as it's usually faster anyways than driving out of my way, and sitting around for an hour or more just to get it done. :rolleyes:

I'll bet they used a short socket on an air gun, thus your problem. :mad: Take it back, and make it very clear that this is unacceptable. The car is under warranty, and they messed up. They should step up and fix it.
 
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