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Discussion Starter #1
So it seems to me that the paddle/manual regen lever on the steering wheel gets the most recovery, "L" shift second, and lowest regen rate is simply taking foot off gas/gently applying the brakes.

I really like the paddle - it slows the car down quickly, gets the highest regen capacity, is convenient and will save brake pads.

What are the downsides, or what am I missing here?

Last question - when applying the manual regen/paddle, do the brake lights come on?

Cheers all



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So it seems to me that the paddle/manual regen lever on the steering wheel gets the most recovery, "L" shift second, and lowest regen rate is simply taking foot off gas/gently applying the brakes.

I really like the paddle - it slows the car down quickly, gets the highest regen capacity, is convenient and will save brake pads.

What are the downsides, or what am I missing here?

Last question - when applying the manual regen/paddle, do the brake lights come on?

Cheers all



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The brake pedal does it all. Least regen to the most, depending on how hard you press on the pedal. The paddle and "L" are preset static amounts of regen. And yes, the brake lights do come on when using the paddle or just "L". It is based on deceleration speed, not just a switch.
 

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And yes, the brake lights do come on when using the paddle or just "L". It is based on deceleration speed, not just a switch.
Is this true using "L" in a Gen 1? Sometimes you want to decelerate quickly without tipping off the cop that you spotted him.
 

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Using paddles exclusively and trying to maximize regen actually hurts your range, especially if you stay on the accelerator until the optimal moment to the paddle regen. Because regen isn't 100% efficient, you will actually get more EV range in D letting go of the accelerator as soon as you see slowing or stopped traffic and coasting like the dickens. True hypermilers will even shift to N, coast like crazy, then shift back to D and use the brakes for the final slowdown, or if you time it right, the light turns green, the traffig begins to flow, and you can use all of your momentum to geek going.

As for saving on brake pads, if you used D and brakes exclusively, you are not using friction brakes very much more than the regen paddle. The fact that you have variable regen using the brake pedal is a huge plus as you have better control of the car, and the only time the friction brakes actually kick in is during panic stops and at the very end of a regular stop from 5 mph to 0 mph, about the same time you'd have to tap the brakes anyway while using paddle regen.

I spent two years trying every scenario with my G1, and Sport L, while fun, never got me the best range. It was Normal D with lots of fortuitous coasting, driving like a grandpa,and nice weather that got me my personal best of 52 miles on my morning commute. Then I realized, no matter how much I floor it and waste energy, my MPG still blows away any Prius. So now I drive like Jeff Gordon and take on any and all pony cars and ricer boys at the stop light. So you can keep driving the way you do if it enjiy it, but don't fool yourself that max regen means max efficiency. Max efficiency comes with no regen paddle.

To answer your brake light question, yes on a g2, no on a G1.
 

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Has anybody with their Volt had to replace their brakes. If so, how many miles were on the car. I know our 2010 Prius has over 152,000 miles and the brakes are only a little worn considering the amount of miles, other cars I would have been on a 2nd set of brakes by now....
 

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No brake lights on regent rapids deceleration in G1 Volt

I really liked the fact that on my G1 Volt the brake lights did not come on during heavy regen deceleration in "L".
I believe I have avoided many speeding tix because of this feature of my Volt! My experience in my prior Mustang GT 5.0 was the CHP will coyly shadow you from a distance waiting to clock you, even after they have enough time elapsed to bust you, and when they actually hit the flashing lights is the second they see you tap your brakes! (At least it Seems that way!)

Of course an even BIGGER reason I never got even one speeding ticket during 47K miles of driving in my Volt, after a history of having to go to traffic school every 18 months like clockwork to get rid of them, is because of the changes in mydriving habits with the Volt!
Trying to maximize mpg, my new passion, is inconsistent w/ street light racing and 80 mph cruising! (I have another car for that when my inner teenager cannot be denied��...but I only put 5K miles on it since I got the Volt, so no tickets there yet either ��)

To any CHP members of the forum, in all seriousness, thank you for your service, you guys rock!
 

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Is this true using "L" in a Gen 1? Sometimes you want to decelerate quickly without tipping off the cop that you spotted him.
No. In the Gen 1 models, the regen in "L" is slightly lower so the deceleration does not meet the federal regulation for turning on the brake lights.
 

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I wonder at what point, what g force, the friction brakes come on vs. regen only.
That'll vary by traction conditions, speed, etc. Slower than 4 MPH, for example, is always friction brakes. Regen gets turned off anytime any of the traction controls fire. I'm pretty sure there's no regen in reverse, regardless of speed. Etc.
 

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No. In the Gen 1 models, the regen in "L" is slightly lower so the deceleration does not meet the federal regulation for turning on the brake lights.
UN regulations, not US Fed. Fed doesn't have any requirement about stop lamps coming on REGARDLESS of how fast you slow down, as long as you're NOT using the "system brake" (the brake pedal), and if you are, then they must.

UN says

Electric regenerative braking systems as defined in paragraph 2.17., which
produce a retarding force upon release of the accelerator control, shall
generate the signal mentioned above according to the following provisions:

Vehicle decelerations Signal generation
≤ 0.7 m/s² The signal shall not be generated
> 0.7 m/s² and ≤ 1.3 m/s² The signal may be generated
> 1.3 m/s² The signal shall be generated

In all cases the signal shall be de-activated at the latest when the deceleration
has fallen below 0.7 m/s².
http://www.unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/R13hr2e.pdf

I did the math once, and I think the 1.3m/s^2 is about 3 MPH of decelleration per second.
 

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Using paddles exclusively and trying to maximize regen actually hurts your range, especially if you stay on the accelerator until the optimal moment to the paddle regen. Because regen isn't 100% efficient, you will actually get more EV range in D letting go of the accelerator as soon as you see slowing or stopped traffic and coasting like the dickens.
If I remember correctly, the round-trip efficiency of regen->battery->speed is about 70%. So if you can KEEP your speed instead...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Brilliant info all! Sounds like the best way is to drive like gramps/grandma and coast my way to near zero...pissing off all the other drivers.

Funny that one person mentioned immediate change in driving habits once they got behind the wheel of the volt...i agree. I went from a six speed manual mazda 3 sport which was LOTS of fun to drive, to the volt. While the volt is zippy, I just don't want to gun it the way I did my "sports car". Anyway, I add an extra ten mins on my trip planning now :)


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So it seems to me that the paddle/manual regen lever on the steering wheel gets the most recovery, "L" shift second, and lowest regen rate is simply taking foot off gas/gently applying the brakes.

I really like the paddle - it slows the car down quickly, gets the highest regen capacity, is convenient and will save brake pads.

What are the downsides, or what am I missing here?
...
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RSI, repetitive stress injury.
 

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I find the paddle too aggressive and inefficient when driving in D. If you drive in L, it's a nice extra brake boost that almost turns the car into a one-pedal experience.

Coasting is always more efficient than regenerating.
 

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The paddle comes on too 'hard and fast' when I have passengers in the car, and thus, is only good for me when going down steep hills. The rest of the time, I brake gently and get the regen from that. Coasting to a stoplight on a flat road is my methodology.
 

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Experimented a little on my way home from work tonight.

When I hit the paddles the brake lights come on almost instantly.

When I lift fully off the throttle in L the brake lights come on almost instantly.

When I slowly lift off the throttle in L the brake light will only come on once I start to slow down at a good rate.

What i'm trying to say is if I lift slowly but not all the way off the throttle I am in regen. I can see by the negative kwh reading on the cluster but no brake lights until I lift a little more for more slowing action.

It seems well thought out.
 

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Experimented a little on my way home from work tonight.

When I hit the paddles the brake lights come on almost instantly.

When I lift fully off the throttle in L the brake lights come on almost instantly.

When I slowly lift off the throttle in L the brake light will only come on once I start to slow down at a good rate.

What i'm trying to say is if I lift slowly but not all the way off the throttle I am in regen. I can see by the negative kwh reading on the cluster but no brake lights until I lift a little more for more slowing action.

It seems well thought out.
And if you want the utmost EV efficiency, never use the regen paddles or L (except when traversing mountains). Normal D while coasting like the dickens almost always wins.
 
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