moved to Problems...
Thanks, I am going to attempt to remove the charge port to inspect for cracks and potential corrosion. If I see anything I will see what can be done to fix or replace it. I can order from gmparts.ca if I need one.If you DO NOT have SHVCS on the dash, then the most plausible explanation is that you have a bad (common) charge port. The port gets cracks on the back, and water gets in. There is a redesigned part available from GM. One for early gen 1, one for late gen 1, and one for ELR.
Actually there is a circuit board embedded in the port's back. FromThe charge port is a pure socket device and has no electronics or smarts.
|Port. Charging. Battery.|
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Well, that is interesting. I didn't think they would stuff a circuit board in there but it appears there is one (two it would appear!).Actually there is a circuit board embedded in the port's back. From
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Someone else posted a picture where they dissected the back to uncover the circuit board but I can't find it. It showed corrosion.
Here's another thread:
Replacing the Charging port 2013 Volt
It looks like the replacement charge port may be a while (see note below). It is hybrid only mode for the foreseeable future. I did a mountain mode charge up to the 50% level and now I am just running in hold mode when I drive the car. I am leaving it in the 50% charge range thinking that it might be best for keeping cells balanced long term on the decade old battery. I suspect keeping it in CS mode at the bottom end (20% charge level) might not be as good for the battery long term due to its age and the risk of a cell dropping to far if the whole pack is down too far.
Ironically, when I filled up my gas tank to full for the first time in a long time, I have had strong gas vapors happening as though there is a leak in the gas tank. It is down to half full now and no more vapors so I am only going to half fill it for now. Can't charge it to full and now can't fill it to full...lol. The car is half of what it used to be I guess!
"Good day, this part is unfortunately indefinitely back-ordered. We have been waiting for stock and have many on order. Unfortunately at this time I cannot say when for sure these will be made available at GM."
Scott, here’s how it was explained to me:
Jaryd Carvell-> Hi friendly neighborhood volt tech here! Vehicles equipped with high voltage storage and propulsion systems are designed with the high voltage circuits completely isolated from the vehicle chassis. If either the positive or negative high voltage DC circuits or any of the high voltage AC phase circuits lose this isolation to the vehicle chassis, DTCs will set and the battery contactors will open. This is to prevent electrifying the vehicle chassis with high voltage.
Because the battery cooling system and a/c system use high voltage components that are bolted directly to the vehicle ground, the fluid that they contain (coolant or a/c oil) need to be electrically insulating (ie they don't conduct electricity). De-ionized water does not have free electrons and does not conduct electricity, and therefore acts as an electrical insulator (just like the insulation around a wire). Tap water has dissolved salts and minerals and is an electrical conductor, and therefore will allow power to bleed through into the vehicle's chassis and set dtcs. Honestly, half a cup PROBABLY isn't enough to cause a problem, but GM is VERY adamant that only dex cool pre-mixed with de-ionized water be used in HV cooling systems, just as the a/c must use a special electrically insulating oil to prevent a loss of isolation. Use only DEX-COOL part no. 12378390 in a Volt or any GM EV or PHEV.