Read your manual. You change it based on the indicator being at or close to 0% or every two years if your model year is prior to 2013. 2013 and newer the indicator will be at 0% at no more than 2 years so you only have to watch the indicator and change the oil at or before 0%.As a new Volt owner, when do you service your car for oil?
Mine reads 23% and rated good. Do I change the oil when 0%? At a certain number of ICE miles? Once a year?
I wouldn't trust mobile at that interval. The only oil I'd trust is amsoil. I change the oil in my cummins powered truck every 30k miles and the gfs element usually around 20k miles. I plan on switching to amsoil in the volt when it hits 0% and then it will get a analysis with 10% and it will probably get reset, filter change and back to 0% before a full oil change.Truthfully, synthetic oil Like Mobil 1 EP is to the point where it'll last the life of the car (granted, car manufacturers won't warranty an engine with no oil changes, but it'll last and maintain its protective properties especially on the Volt's range extender, Oil filter changes are needed). Don't believe it? get an oil analysis done.
Of course, quality filters are still key, but the recommended (up to) 2 year change interval on the Volt is very conservative.
Thank you, all. Great info.
How will that work with your engine warranty? They want to see receipts for oil and filter changes at specified intervals, correct?.... I plan on switching to amsoil in the volt when it hits 0% and then it will get a analysis with 10% and it will probably get reset, filter change and back to 0% before a full oil change.
With how little I use the gas engine and the fact they need to prove my modifications caused a failure, I'm not worried about it. I build engines and I'm not shy about hiring a lawyer to help my case. I'm not worried about a oil related failure. Once you start doing oil samples m, you'll realize how long oil and the additive packs will go.How will that work with your engine warranty? They want to see receipts for oil and filter changes at specified intervals, correct?
Ummm, what?personally I would not use sync. oil
seems to retain moisture more so than regular oil
and the motor doesn't run long enough or get hot, long enough, to burn it out
"No proof of regularly scheduled oil changes . Warranty claim DENIED."... the fact they need to prove my modifications caused a failure, I'm not worried about it. ...
Moisture is moisture. Get the oil up to +180° F for a while and the moisture will hopefully leave the engine through the PCV system. Have you checked your oil fill cap for 'Milkshake'? This time of year is the worst.personally I would not use sync. oil
seems to retain moisture more so than regular oil
and the motor doesn't run long enough or get hot, long enough, to burn it out
Oil that's not recommended is considered a modification and would be part of the magnason moss act. They would need to prove that my "modification" caused the failure. I've been through this before with GM and won. The car was later lemon law'd with no fight from GM after the initial issues that prompted the lemon law pursuit."No proof of regularly scheduled oil changes . Warranty claim DENIED."
But you're right, I wouldn't worry about this engine. But also,,, I wouldn't go cheap while the warranty is in effect.
OK, so you've been through this before. "And won".... They would need to prove that my "modification" caused the failure. ....
Exactly LOLUmmm, what?
That's just not true. Yea, if the engine is all sludge and rod bearings are spun and the big end is blue, it's an oil problem. If a piston is cracked with no other signs of original damage, that wasn't oil and would be covered.OK, so you've been through this before. "And won".
I just don't get going cheap for THE very few oil changes required before the end of the warranty period.
Where is this 'modification'?
"No proof of regularly scheduled oil changes . Warranty claim DENIED."