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164K views 117 replies 48 participants last post by  GBRR 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This FAQ is not intended to be—nor should it be used as—a replacement for reading the owner's manual and GM service manual and following their directions, warnings and precautions. It is instead a compilation and summary of other GM-Volt posts. No fitness of purpose is given, and all information should be independently verified by you before acting on it. I am not a certified Volt technician or mechanic. I'm not an auto-mechanic at all. So don't rely on anything I post below. :) If you see a mistake or notice something missing, post it.

Topics Covered:

  1. When should the oil be changed?
  2. Can the oil really last up to 2 years without changing?
  3. How does the Volt know when the oil needs changing?
  4. What's the break-in period for the Volt's engine?
  5. How often should I check the oil level?
  6. Where is the dipstick located?
  7. How do I check the oil level?
  8. What marks indicates "low" or "full" on the oil dipstick?
  9. My oil level is above the top cross-hatched area, is that OK?
  10. My oil level is below the bottom cross-hatched area, is that OK?
  11. My engine oil level is in the "add oil" cross-hatch area, should I be concerned?
  12. Is tan-colored "mayonnaise" on the dipstick normal?
  13. What kind of oil does the Volt use?
  14. Can I use oil that is not dexos1 approved?
  15. Can I change the oil myself?
  16. How do I change the oil and filter?
  17. What oil filter should I use?
  18. Can I use engine oil additives or engine oil flushes?
  19. What makes the Volt oil pump special?
  20. Other engine oil info

1. When should the oil be changed?
The Volt has an oil life monitor (OLM) display. Let it be your friend. It will tell you how much oil life is remaining as a percent. OnStar/MyVolt.com will also email you a monthly status report which includes the oil life remaining. You can also monitor your oil life on the "MyVolt" web site or the iPhone app.

The oil should be changed when the Volt's oil life indicator displays "Change Engine Oil Soon" (10% remaining life)—or 2 years—whichever comes first. When either occurs, change the oil as soon as possible within the next 1 000 km (600 mi). Note: notwithstanding the OLM, you may want more frequent changes when the vehicle is exposed to a corrosive environment, such as areas of high humidity, along an ocean coast, and/or areas that apply road salt during winter.

The choice of oil in the Volt is well suited for a long shelf live, so some say doing an oil change sooner or more frequently is a false economy and you are throwing your money down the drain. However, some like the idea of the first oil change being sooner than recommended. If you want to change it sooner go ahead, but GM recommends using the oil life monitor as your guide.

2. Can the oil really last up to 2 years without changing?
You betcha!—depending on how much you use the ICE (internal combustion engine). Many people go for months without ever using the engine, that's less wear and tear on gas engine. If you run your engine every day it may need changing more frequently. So a driver who runs in EV mode 70% of the time can probably go a year or two between oil changes.

3. How does the Volt know when the oil needs changing?
It uses an algorithm (math and stuff) that looks at numerous inputs to determine the proper time to change the engine oil:

  • Time since last reset
  • Number of Engine Revolutions since last reset
  • Engine Temperature
  • Average Engine RPM
  • Engine RPM fluctuations
These factors are used to calculate the effect of heavy vs. light engine loads and constant engine speed vs. stop-and-go speeds. On GM's non-electric vehicles the OLM tracks well with average speed. High average speed=lots of highway miles=10K change interval. Low average speed=lots of local miles and cold starts=lower change interval.

4. What's the break-in period for the Volt's engine?
This topic probably generates the most oil change debate. The manual says the Volt engine break-in was done at the factory as part of the manufacturing process, so no early break-in oil change is necessary. So many say a "first safety oil change" to remove shavings, metal particles, etc. is not needed. However, just as many like the idea of the first oil change being sooner than recommended. If you want to make sure the oil is in good condition just check the dipstick with a clean paper towel. If the oil has a dark black color or gritty feel, my opinion is change it regardless of what the OLM indicates.

5. How often should I check the oil level?
Probably more than you do. With a projected oil change of up to two years, it's important to check the oil level on a regular basis, say once every few months, or every 1000 gas miles whichever comes first. This way you can also keep an eye on the look of the oil over time. Maybe even keep a dated collection of oil stained paper to see the color change over time. Think how impressed your friends will be, haha.

6. Where is the dipstick located?
Notice, I said dip stick rather than the euphemism you call an idiot like Neil Cavuto. Refer to your owner's manual. There is an illustration in the Vehicle Care section under Vehicle Checks > Engine Compartment Overview that shows the dipstick and engine oil fill cap. The end of the dipstick looks like a yellow plastic ring.

7. How do I check the oil level?
Here's where we start divulging our secret methods. If the engine has been running recently, turn off the engine and allow several minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan. Warning: The engine oil dipstick handle may be hot; it could burn you. Use a towel or glove to touch the dipstick handle. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.

8. What marks indicates "low" or "full" on the oil dipstick?
Many people look at the GM dipstick and ask that question, and the manual is not as clear as it could be. So here's the key to breaking the secret GM code: The top cross-hatched area (toward the handle end) is the maximum (full) oil level, the bottom cross-hatched area (near the tip) indicates minimum oil level. Note the words Min and Max faintly embossed into dipstick handle below:

Yellow Plastic


Like the Da Vinci Code, we can apply this knowledge to decipher the Volt's oil dipstick hidden meanings:

Text Line Diagram Font


Oil levels above or below the acceptable operating range shown on the dipstick are harmful to the engine.

9. My oil level is above the top (MAX) cross-hatched area, is that OK?
No. If the engine has been running recently, turn off the engine and allow several minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan before checking the oil level. If you find that you have an oil level above the top cross-hatched area, the engine could be damaged. You should drain out the excess oil or limit driving of the vehicle and seek a service professional to remove the excess amount of oil.

10. My oil level is below the bottom (MIN) cross-hatched area, is that OK?
No, but you already knew that, right? If the oil is below the cross-hatched area at the tip of the dipstick, add 1 L (1 qt) of the recommended oil and then recheck the level. Obviously a low level can cause the oil pump to stop picking up oil, especially in a tight turn, and run the engine dry of oil causing excessive engine wear or worse, a seized engine. Never add more than the top level, because the rotating crankshaft can splash and churn up the oil, causing engine drag and (even worse) foam the oil (mix it with air) which reduces its film formation between engine parts and cause damage to metal surfaces.

11. My engine oil level is in the "add oil" cross-hatch area, should I be concerned?
Perhaps. Every gas engine will consume the oil slowly, and the Volt engine will do so even slower. An engine in good condition should not reach the low oil level before the next programmed oil change. If the oil level drops sooner, there may be a worn part or loose gasket causing leaks, or worn rings allowing more oil to be consumed in the cylinder. Or, look for family members with an oil ring on their lips. That oil is going somewhere. The causes of excessive oil consumption may include the following conditions:

  • External oil leaks.
  • Incorrect oil level or improper reading of the oil level indicator. With the vehicle on a level surface, run the engine for a few minutes, allow adequate drain down time (2-3 minutes) and check for the correct engine oil level.
  • Improper oil viscosity. Refer to the vehicle owners manual and use the recommended SAE grade and viscosity for the prevailing temperatures.
  • Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage.
  • Crankcase ventilation system restrictions or malfunctioning components.
  • Worn valve guides and/or valve stems.
  • Worn, missing or improperly installed valve stem oil seals.
  • Piston rings broken, worn, not seated properly. Allow adequate time for the rings to seat. Replace worn piston rings as necessary.
  • Piston and rings improperly installed or miss-fitted to the cylinder bore.

12. Is tan-colored "mayonnaise" on the diptick normal?
Despite that old saying about oil and water don't mix, that tan substance is typically an indication of water in the oil. Alternatively (and less likely) it could be engine coolant if you have an engine gasket leak.

One of the problems of not running the Volt engine very much is water condensing inside the engine and mixing with the oil. Certain colder environments (like Minnesota for example) will be more prone to engine water condensation, so this may be normal or it may mean you should change the oil. It depends on how often the engine internal surfaces drop below the ambient dew point and how often your gas engine runs.

Emulsified water, coolant or gas in the oil is not good for engine lubrication (corrosive erosion and abnormal wear can result). In a standard vroom-vroom car, the engine oil heats up daily and boils off the condensed water and also any gas from the fuel injectors which may be contaminating/thinning out the oil. In the same way, Volts that use some gas daily are likely to boil off any engine water condensation.

However, in Volts that rarely use the gas engine, the oil probably remains more water contaminated over time than in a regular car engine due to the infrequent engine run cycles. For Volts that rarely or never see the gas engine used, the programmed engine maintenance runs are supposed to take care of this to prevent the amount of water or gas in the oil from becoming detrimental to engine lubrication. So the oft-dreaded FMM (Fuel Maintenance Mode) is not only preventing stale fuel, it's also boiling water out of the oil.

13. What kind of oil does the Volt use?
The Volt's oil is a long-life synthetic, dexos1® approved 5W-30 oil. The oil will display a dexos1® approved certification mark. Mobile 1, 5w-30 is dexos1 certified. EXCEPTION: The Ampera MY12 Manual Page 178 specifies dexos 2 for most of Europe.

14. Can I use oil that is not dexos1 approved?
This may be the next most debated oil change topic. Some say dexos1 approval is a scam. For me, the safe course is to stick with the dexos1 requirement specified in the Volt owner's manual. After the warranty period is over, you can do whatever you like.

Some oils that are not dexos1 approved may claim their oil is "suitable" nonetheless. But ask yourself, "Are you feeling lucky, punk? Well, are you!?" If you use a "suitable" but not dexos1 approved oil and there is engine damage, will the oil company accept responsibility for the engine warranty if GM refuses your engine damage claim? Do you want to be in the middle of the finger pointing and paperwork? Not me.

According to the Amsoil site: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx their oil is "suitable as a replacement for GM Dexos 1" and supercedes all of the relevant specs. Apparently Castrol makes a similar statement.

15. Can I change the oil myself?
Sure. If the dealer does it then it's on record that you had the proper maintenance done, but you can certainly change your own oil and filter if you want. To maintain your warranty just make sure that you:

  1. Purchase/install a dexos1 approved 5W-30 synthetic blend oil (the Volt's oil is a long-life synthetic). In an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −29°C (−20°F), a dexos1 approved SAE 0W-30 oil may be used. Mobile one 5w-30 is dexos1 approved. Also see "Can I use oil that is not dexos1 approved?"
  2. Keep your dated receipts for the oil and filter purchase (preferably in your glove-box with other owner/maintenance materials).
  3. Make note of the date and who performed the work on your maintenance record (also part of your glove-box owners materials).
  4. Reset the oil life monitor. Refer to your owner's manual in the Vehicle Care section under Engine Oil Life System > How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System.

16. How do I change the oil and filter?
If you are asking, perhaps you should not be doing it, haha. That aside, doing an oil change on the Volt is pretty simple. It can be done by anyone who knows how to change the oil in a regular car. The filter and drain plug are out in the open and easy to reach. The official procedure can be seen here: http://www.autocats.net/manual/chevrolet/tis0911/en/documents_2012/Volt/start_Volt.html

Skin Protection: Before starting, get rubber or disposable gloves (non-latex) to protect your hands. Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer. Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer's warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.

Spill Preparation: Have paper towels or shop towels (blue or red) ready to wipe away oil spills on the engine area, and have a pail of clean sand or clay cat litter available in case of a major spill to absorb the oil and facilitate an easier cleanup.

  1. It's best to do an oil change with a hot engine. Either run with a drained main battery and drive on gas power before the work, or use mountain mode if the battery is low, or simply pop the hood with power on, which forces the engine to start. 10 minutes of idle should be enough to warm the oil to help it drain better and mix up any material that may have settled.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle. Some like to drive the Volt up on ramps, others prefer lifting the vehicle with a jack. Refer to your owner's manual in the Vehicle Care section under Lifting the Vehicle. Danger: Do not use a service jack in locations other than those specified to lift this vehicle. Lifting the vehicle with a jack in those other locations could cause the vehicle to slip off the jack and roll; this could cause injury or death. I think it may be a good idea to set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. You don't want the car rolling backwards off the stands or jacks.
  3. The filter is located towards the bottom left of the car on the side of what seems to be the oil sump. The plug is close by on the bottom. Warning: While engine is operating, the exhaust system will become extremely hot. To prevent burns avoid contacting a hot exhaust system.
    Auto part Automotive exhaust Exhaust manifold Engine Vehicle
  4. Place a drain pan under the sump drain plug.
  5. The drain plug needs a 10mm wrench. Remove the sump drain plug, and allow the oil to drain completely. Caution: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners, or fastener joint surfaces, unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. When using fasteners that are threaded directly into plastic, use extreme care not to strip the mating plastic part(s). Use hand tools only, and do not use any kind of impact or power tools. Fastener should be hand tightened, fully seated, and not stripped.
  6. After the oil is drained replace the drain plug (a new seal is recommended). The GM published torque for the drain plug is 14Nm /124 lb in (about 10 lb-ft). Install the oil sump drain plug and tighten to 14 N·m (124 lb in).
  7. Place the drain pan under the oil filter.
  8. Remove the oil filter. Allow the oil to drain completely.
  9. Be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Using a plastic funnel, pour the used oil into the same containers that held the new oil. Used oil can be a threat to the environment. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash or pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil such as an auto repair shop, auto dealer or recycling center. Some states apply a tax per quart to guarantee the oil return, and the tax is refunded after the return.

Installation Procedure

  1. Lubricate the NEW oil filter gasket with clean engine oil.
  2. Tighten the oil filter to 25 N·m (18 lb-ft).
  3. Lower the vehicle onto level ground.
  4. Refill the engine with 3.7 qt (3.5 l) of new oil. The camshaft roller tappet is directly under the oil fill cap, but it's not a problem. Allow several minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan before checking the oil level. Check the dipstick by pulling it out, wiping the end with a clean towel, reinserting all the way, and removing it again keeping the end pointed down. Check to make sure the oil is at the proper level. Fully insert the dipstick.
  5. Turn the car on with the hood open. This will cause the engine to start and you can check for leaks of the filter or drain plug. Turn off the car. If you'd like or are simply a little on this side of obsessive-compulsive, wait a few minutes and verify the oil level again as above.
  6. Lastly, reset the oil life monitor. Refer to your owner's manual in the Vehicle Care section under Engine Oil Life System > How to Reset the Engine Oil Life System.

17. What oil filter should I use?


18. Can I use engine oil additives or engine oil flushes?
No and no. Do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the dexos specification and displaying the dexos certification mark are all that is needed for good performance and engine protection. Engine oil system flushes are not recommended and could cause engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty.

19. What makes the Volt oil pump special?
Well, WOT is glad you asked. The Chevrolet Volt has a special variable displacement oil pump that helps conserve fuel by delivering the precise amount of oil in all driving conditions. The volume of oil from the pump varies with rpm which reduces the amount of energy, or torque, required to pump the oil, without taking necessary lubrication away from the engine.
Auto part

There's a video showing this pump on this GMCL web page:
http://media.gm.com/content/product/public/us/en/FuelEfficiency/tech.html

Or use this: [video]http://bcove.me/txstgwv8[/video]

While the article below is specifically referencing the Cruze, the Volt's LUU range extender ICE benefits from the very same oil pump configuration. A lot of people are under the assumption that the Family 0 Ecotec engine used in the Volt has very little newer technology in its design, but that's just not true. With other fuel efficient and emissions friendly technologies such as low friction piston rings, low mass valvetrain, electrically managed thermostat, dual-mode (intake AND exhaust thus atkinson capable) VVT, close-coupled catalytic converter with fast "light-off" heated oxygen sensors, its as good as it gets in a modern 4-cyl.


Originally Posted by General Motors of Canada on Aug 25 2010
Special Oil Pump Helps Chevrolet Cruze Conserve Fuel
Variable Displacement Pump Delivers Precise Amount of Oil in all Driving Conditions

The oil pump in the engine of the 2011 Chevrolet Cruze takes a laid-back approach to its work, delivering the precise amount of oil needed during all driving conditions. That requires the engine to work less versus a conventional pump and ultimately saves fuel.

A standard feature in the Cruze’s Ecotec 1.4L turbocharged engine, the variable displacement oil pump reduces the displacement during engine warm up and high speed conditions. The volume of oil from the pump varies with rpm by changing the pump’s displacement through a pivoting control chamber mechanism and sliding vanes. A fixed displacement pump would typically bypass the extra oil internally.

“By lowering the volume of oil we reduce the amount of energy, or torque, required to pump the oil, without taking necessary lubrication away from the engine,” said Mike Katerberg, assistant chief engineer for the 1.4L. “Reducing the torque demand reduces fuel consumption. It’s a simple, durable, maintenance-free design that we have used in our transmissions for years and more recently in our hybrid vehicles.”

The Ecotec 1.4L turbo is standard on Eco, LT Turbo and LTZ Turbo models and helps the Cruze Eco, with a standard six-speed manual transmission, achieve segment best highway fuel consumption - as low as 5.0 L/100km.*

The benefits of the variable displacement oil pump increase when used with other technologies such as variable valve timing which operate using oil pressure. Variable valve timing adjusts the engine valves' opening and closing timing for optimal performance, fuel efficiency and emissions across the rpm band – including greater low-rpm torque.

* Based on GMCL preliminary testing in accordance with approved Transport Canada test methods.

20. Other engine oil info:


Some posts used as reference for this FAQ:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?12412-DIY-Oil-Change
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?50009-Checking-Oil
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?16449-Oil-Change
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?6998-Remaining-Oil-Life
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?18544-Oil-change
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?19289-Change-Oil
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?17948-Oil-Change-Make-Sure-Dealer-Has-Oil
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?17817-Oil-life-to-98-after-only-.5-GA-of-gas-use
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?11453-Oil-Service
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?7309-Special-Oil-Pump-Helps-Chevrolet-Cruze-(-amp-Volt)-Conserve-Fuel
 
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4
#80 ·
Curious what other cars you have that don't produce black oil as they run?
If its still golden you're changing oil way too often, in any car.

As you said its 73% and probably a year since last change, you have a pre-2013 model, yes?
Those years did not discount the oil life for time, you had to do that yourself.
New models account for time AND use.

So if we say the computer has estimated 27% oil use (100-73)
And it is a year old (50%)
You're looking at less than 25% actual life left.
Looks about right to me.
 
#81 ·
It's a MY2013, last oil change 6 months/~20k miles ago.

Curious what other cars you have that don't produce black oil as they run?
If its still golden you're changing oil way too often, in any car.
Once I have had my cars for a while, and changed the oil every 6 months, most have 'golden' oil... just how I like it. If it ain't 'golden' I get uncomfortable! :)

Even my diesel engines' oil ends up pretty clear. It gets dirty before the oil change, but for a few hundred after a change it is usually quite transparent (more 'grey' than 'golden' but still 'clear').

I think it is a sign of a well-running engine if the oil remains clear between changes.

I can't see the issue in changing the oil 'way too often'. I usually swap the oil out every 6 months and skip oil filter changes. No need changing the filter every time if you're physically pulling the dirt out of the engine, rather than filtering it. The oil is peanuts money, why skimp on it?
 
#82 · (Edited)
Excess waste in the environment, for one thing.

If the oil is golden, it hasn't even done any cleaning work.
If its black, its working, with the dirt in suspension that you then drain (and that black colour does not necessarily mean it's performing poorly as an oil, either)
If it's still light, it's a complete waste to change.
 
#83 ·
I can't agree with you. Oil is readily recycled, and more easily recycled if not broken down and contaminated. It is a much lower environmental impact to recycle an extra 20 gallons of oil over the lifetime of an engine than to rebuild the engine half way through the life of the car for the sake of skimping on that many changes.

There's a balance, of course, and changing the oil every weekend I would agree with you. However, changing the oil once in 60,000 miles (40,000 gas miles) is too little and is risking the opposite effect.
 
#84 ·
I wouldn't advocate to change every 40k gas miles either.
But if the oil is not even dark brown, it is excessive to change it.
It will be black long before 40k. Probably before even before 5k.
 
#85 ·
I used to have a 1988 Citroen GTi 16V, which developed 160bhp at 7,500 rpm from a 1.9 engine (peak torque at 5,000rpm). The engine was all alloy and warmed up so quick there was heat coming out of the dash vents before you could get it into gear. The bulkhead had a gold foil heat reflector on it to reduce the heat transfer from the back of the engine. It ran fast, hot and clean. The oil was actually difficult to see on the dip stick, even after 6,000 miles, because it was so clean. I used to have some folks exclaim 'it's got no oil in it!' it was that clean running.

The cleanliness of the oil is down to the engine. It shouldn't be getting broken down and black if the engine runs good and clean. Did the oil in my Citroen need changing if it was so clean you still couldn't see it? Probably not, but that's just how I wanted to keep it. If an oil change every 6k did the trick, then that's just fine.

Now that this Ampera is with me, it will barely see 1k gas miles a year. So the bi-annual oil change will be, as you say, virtually redundant. But it is part of the schedule. So the car will have gone from 40k gas mile oil changes to 2k gas mile changes. Quite the extremes!
 
#86 ·
I wouldn't say two year change is redundant.
Comment on colour was for an engine actually being used regularly, to change it so frequently is madness with a modern synthetic oil.
But sitting over two years with infrequent use, definitely be changing it regardless of color by then, as it can degrade. Especially with our beloved ERDTT punishing the engine in the winter, or if used for short times and doesn't get hot enough to keep the water out.

My engine has like 200km on it after a year. So you can guess which end of the spectrum I'm at ;)
 
#87 ·
I'm sorry but the 3.7qt Engine Oil with Filter spec in the owner's manual is just plain wrong. Just accomplished my 2nd oil & filter change, again used only 3 quarts after letting the old oil drain for almost an hour. Again the dipstick is showing oil level right to the middle of dipstick between min/max markers. Ran the ICE and burned fuel on a trip and after letting the engine cool, checked again and yup still right in the middle of dispstick range. Have a sneaking suspicion you would actually be overfilling if you go by the 3.7qt spec. BTW: DIY oil changes aren't exactly cheap even using only 3 qts since I used Mobile 1 full synthetic. Yes, I maybe jumped the gun since the oil life meter on the Volt was still showing @50% or 1 more year....
 
#89 ·
Did you prefill the filter?

Buy your Mobil-1 at Wally-World...5 qts for about $25.00
 
#88 ·
If you run a bypass filter (Mercedes-Benz has been using them for decades) the oil should stay 'golden' much longer.....Micro-Green is one brand that offers a direct replacement and I use those on all my vehicles....2007 Accord, 2004 BMW K12---GT, 1978 GMC Motorhome. If your oil is going black sooner than you think it should, leaks in the air intake that bypass the air filter...think a damaged gasket around the filter..is a good 1st place to look.

I plan to use Mobil-1 5-30 in the Volt and if Micro-Green has a filter for it, I'll use that...if not I'll use the Mobil-1 filter or the top of the line Fram or NAPA or Purolater...from what I've read all of those are the same filter.....I could be wrong...I'll as my wife as she is always right.
 
#94 ·
Wait 2 years for an oil change? No thanks, I just changed my oil for the first time having let the dealer do it the first two times.
This oil that came out of the crankcase is the worst oil I have ever seen; white and milky. I'm sure it is due to the 95% electric use in which we operate our car.
I will change my oil once a year no matter what the minder says from now on.

QR
 
#96 ·
Depends how much you use it and how. Lots of ERDTT is bad if it never gets hot enough each time.
My engine use is for longish runs, enough for it to get to optimum temp each time.

2yr on the left, fresh after change on the right. Also 95% EV.
Metal
 
#97 ·
Mine doesn't get to an optimal temperature.

I have a '12 without "hold" mode and most of my trips are to/from work, about 3.5 miles at speeds under 40 mph. Burning .1 gallon of gas one way isn't warm enough to be of any benefit IMHO.
 
#98 ·
*grin* It's getting so that I'm considering making a friend in a city about 75 miles away, just to get some productive use out of the engine maintenance with a trip every month or two. I've been lazy this winter, and EMM's come up twice, which feels like "you're not exercising me enough".
 
#102 ·
#103 ·
Getting close to my first oil change on a 2013. Purchased with 30K, had been mostly used on electric (lifetime mpg 185). May just take it to the dealer. Biggest concern is the drain period - I have always changed my own oil on other cars and I would let it drain overnight, then blow air into the fill port and get another tablespoon of the dirtiest oil out. The 30 - 60 second drain at oil change outfits is not sufficient, IMO.
 
#104 ·
I would never go to one of those quick oil change stores. Too many bad reports.
Not that I would try this, but the Volt is probably the only car made that you could drain the oil at home then drive it to the dealer for the replacement oil. ;)
 
#106 ·
Just called my dealer to schedule the 7,500 mile service visit. They are recommending that I pay to have oil additives put in the car, to help the life of the oil. The guy was hard to hear over the phone, but I asked him about the oil-life meter in the Volt only being at 75%, and the 2-year change interval, and he said that is precisely why the additives are needed for that long of a time. He stressed it heavily. Cost is $39.99.

Not sure what to say to that. These guys have a good reputation for Volt service, and he was saying this is needed specifically for the Volt hybrid system.
 
#110 ·
Dexos 1 is not a scam per se, as it insures that oil with the certification meets certain criteria. It does however cost an oil manufacturer about $100,000 for the certification. Amsoil certifies that their Signature Series oils exceed Dexos 1 requirements and provide test results to prove it.
Darkening of oil during use is not an indicator of suitability for service. Oil analysis is the best way to determine an oil's condition. I've had rather dark oil analyzed and it comes back "suitable for continued service"
There are numerous documented testimonials of large over-the-road trucks, using bypass filtration systems, who have run synthetic diesel oil 500,000 miles between changes. A fairly recent one was published in one of my Amsoil monthly newsletters. The engine was torn down for inspection at 500,000 miles, and no internal parts were found to exceed normal wear limits. Routine oil analysis was used to monitor oil condition. I think you can trust the Volt's oil life monitor!
 
#113 · (Edited)
#114 ·
Changing oil in my wife's Miata was a pain and I had to jack it up. I was dreading changing oil in the Volt, but it was much easier. The air dam is low, but the engine itself not so much. My driveway has a slight slope so I put the back wheels on the driveway and the front wheels 3 feet inside the garage. I put two 2x6s behind the front wheel and backed the front wheels on them. The air dam was low but just pushes out of the way. The plug and filter are fairly close to the front of the car on the passenger side. I would say this was as simple an oil change as I have done on all my other cars.
 
#116 ·
I've seen and heard too many horror stories about those places, so if I can't get the oil change done at the dealer, I do it myself. If you do go to one, make sure they have the correct oil filter first, it only fits the Gen 1 Volt and the ELR in the USA.
 
#118 · (Edited)
Hi,
I'm about my first engine oil change and looking for oil & oil filter to choose. locally available are mobil 1, valvoline, Rektol, liqui-moly. I like liqui-moly and used it during my races. its very interesting to do some pool with list of oils nad oil filters and see who used Mobile, ACDelco and witch filter they have used.
for oil filters, i;m about to buy on Rockauto.com maybe someone wants to share their XP about list form rockauto?

I also found this webpage dexos® is this something that I need to compare what kind of oil i will buy in the list?

171079
 
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