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That was my question (above) to AndY1, "Does your owners manual recommend dextos2? " Thanks for answering that question for him, Jim! I have added that info as a note to the FAQ.
Sorry, I didn't have yet the chance to look at my manual. My daughter got chickenpox, so we were quite busy these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Sorry, I didn't have yet the chance to look at my manual. My daughter got chickenpox, so we were quite busy these days.
Sorry to hear that, AndY1. I had them as a kid, no fun. And they can re-emerge years later as painful shingles for people in their 60's and later. Unfortunately, the chickenpox vaccine was not available when I was a kid.

At least we were able to verify the oil grade your dealer recommended is correct!
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Is it better to warm up the engine (for oil change) with Mountain Mode or by opening the hood?
In the winter when the temperature is below freezing, warm oil will flow easier, faster. In summer, it'll flow fine as-is.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
No engine warm up is needed, if changing the oil in the summer?
Nope. It will flow fine as-is. No engine warmup is needed. Oil is plenty warm just sitting in an unused engine in the summer. So you don't need to warm the car up in the summer. No need to use Hold or Mountain mode in the summer to warm the oil. The oil will pour out just like it will from the bottle.

Oil gets thicker (more viscous) in the winter months when it's below freezing. Even then it will flow, but it will simply take much longer. So a warm engine in the winter will help it flow faster. Running the engine in the summer is not needed. In the summer the car, the engine, the oil, the steering wheel, the body, the tires and the driver are all warm. :)
 

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Thank you! I hope the service guy will agree, so that no unnecessary gasoline is wasted.

What about after the new oil is poured in? Usually the ICE has to be run, so that the oil filter gets filled with the new oil and afterwards one has to recheck the oil level.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Although some will say to warm the engine for a few minutes to thin out the oil, there is no need to burn gas in the Volt. Again, in the summer months the oil will be warm enough to easily flow out the drain. AndY1, you may want to take advantage of the many "how to change your oil" articles online:
http://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-change-your-oil-the-real-down-and-dirty.html
http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car
http://www.artofmanliness.com/2009/10/29/how-to-change-your-motor-oil/
 

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My dad taught me that it was better to drain the oil when the engine is cold just in case there is debris in the oil. It would have settled to the bottom of the oil pan.
 

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Thanks Steverino for the comprehensive post.

First time oil change here (35% still left on the OLM, but +2 years since manufacture date).

What expectation should I have about cost? Standard cost, like an ICE car? Anything special the shop would need to know?

Thanks,
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks Steverino for the comprehensive post.

First time oil change here (35% still left on the OLM, but +2 years since manufacture date).

What expectation should I have about cost? Standard cost, like an ICE car? Anything special the shop would need to know?

Thanks,
Nick
It's just an oil change on an ICE like any other, so no, nothing unusual. But open the hood after you get it back. Make sure they didn't goober up the engine with spilled oil and make sure the cap's on tight. And drop the hood from about 8" when closing. Never push the hood closed (dents).
 

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If I got to a shop that is not normally familiar with the Volt (say a Buick dealer - my local prefered shop, dont like the Chevy dealers in town) would you tell the shop to open the hood and run the engine to warm it up before doing the service, or will the ASE tech know this?

I normally drop my cars for the day at the dealer (they have shuttle service to and from my workplace).
 

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Discussion Starter #55
If I got to a shop that is not normally familiar with the Volt (say a Buick dealer - my local prefered shop, dont like the Chevy dealers in town) would you tell the shop to open the hood and run the engine to warm it up before doing the service, or will the ASE tech know this?

I normally drop my cars for the day at the dealer (they have shuttle service to and from my workplace).
It's a GM gas engine. Frankly, I think any oil change place can change the oil just like any other car, just make sure they use to correct oil and quantity. Ditto the tires, any tire place can do tires. Except for the Voltec specific electronics and hardware, it's just like any other car.
 

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Can I just re-raise two issues that haven't quite been covered:-

A question on using 0W -XX oil was raised. I'd tend to go along with this, the difference being minimal. I can get 0W-40 dexos 'approved' mobil stuff for the same price as 5W-30. I can't quite see the issue with using 0W-40. In fact, plenty of good reasons. 0W-40 is almost 'constant viscosity'. I think '0W-50' would technically be a constant viscosity oil (ie no change with temperature). I've been using a 5W-50 oil for years in a diesel car I have, very good viscosity, makes very little difference to 'warming it up' before letting the oil out. I can't see a good reason not to pick it, if there is no restriction on using that. I will put my car on a service plan, but I'll be asking the dealer if he can put 0W-30, min, into it and see what he says. (PS I might suspect the diesel oil dexos 2 is chosen to increase the amount of detergents in the oil to keep it fresher. Not sure if that is a regional fuel-related thing maybe?)

Second, someone mentioned the Volt engine has a turbo, and that was questioned. I'm pretty sure it has NO turbo, but open to be corrected on that. Frankly, I would've expected better fuel economy had it been. Maybe normally aspirate to keep it simple, or for packaging, or related to some over-expansion VVT mode they use?

I'm actually disappointed to find that they did not use an electric oil pump. With the potential for lots of repetitive, cold starts, establishing oil pressure before turning the engine is a super way to extend the life of an engine.
 

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When I taught Auto Mechanics, I set aside 30-35 hours on Tribology and Fluid dynamics. Your question, properly answered would take more time than I coudl commit to a forum like this.

Also, Europe oil (8 Different ACEA ratings to the North American S/C ratings) are entirely different. Dont beleive me? Compare the data sheet for North American Castrol GTX 5-30 and Europes Castrol GTX 5-30.

If the oil is a Dexos 1 or 2, and it says so on the bottle...... I would feel good about using it. If it fails, the burden is on the oil manufacture. Dexos 1 in North America is suitable for gasoline, Dexos 2 is suitable for Diesel and gasoline (Its real close to ACEA A3/B3)

But again, the correct answer cannot be done in a paragraph.
 

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If the oil is a Dexos 1 or 2, and it says so on the bottle...... I would feel good about using it.
Based on your tribology learnings - you are faced with a shelf full of dexos-only oils. They are all priced the same. Expected climate is 0-20C, but who knows what can happen with our bizarre weather. Would you pick a bottle of 0W-30 or a 5W-30?
 

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Based on your tribology learnings - you are faced with a shelf full of dexos-only oils. They are all priced the same. Expected climate is 0-20C, but who knows what can happen with our bizarre weather. Would you pick a bottle of 0W-30 or a 5W-30?
Me, personally, I would pick the least costly. The W number is almost meaningless really. I can show some 5/30s that are thicker at freezing than a 10/30. As long as it meets what the manufacture asks for, it really doesnt need more thought then that.
 

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I noticed a couple of months ago on the quart container of Mobil One pure synthetic Oil in 0w30 and it states it can
be used in place of 5w30. Seems like the 0 weight part would be ideal in cold winter climates as well.
 
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