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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Can anyone please explain me the Ohm in the Bose sound system in the volt. Im really confused....

I have 2 tweeter at 4ohm .
2 front door speaker at 1 ohm and the rear is 4 ohm??

How can that be?? normal sound system is all the same ohm all around except for the subwoofer ofcouse..or am i wrong?

Can i replace the 1ohm with 4 ohm in the front and replace the rear 4 ohm with the front doors 1 ohms BOSE speaker?? How will all the mix of 1 ohm and 4 ohm speakers effect the total sound experience?

I want to upgrade to the best sound image..


Hope to get some more information before my upgrade , so that i am buying the right ohms speakers..

Regards

The Danish Guy
 

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I cannot comment on the ohmic values of the Bose system speakers, nor if they are wired in series or parallel, nor what the rating is of the Bose amplifier and what it will accept. Someone who has a complete wiring diagram should be able to help.

However, you might want to read this informative explanation of speakers, ohms, amplifiers and wiring...

https://www.abtec.co.nz/blog/wiring-subwoofers-speakers-to-change-ohms/

Also, what exactly do you mean by "best sound image" ???
 

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I will speak Car audio.. haven't looked at or tested the volt.
All Car speakers are 4 Ohm. That being said it's a coil in a magnet so if you tried to measure you would see the resistance go high/low if you pushed on the cone. as the coil moves through the magnetic field it will induce a charge and change the resistance reading.
A good amplifier will have enough power (capacitance, in the amp/head unit) to both push and pull the speaker. IE.. the old push button radio's didn't have enough power so they would push the speaker out using all it's power and let the speakers diaphragm pull the cone back, it works but the sound does get a little bit muddied.

So a good amp will push and pull. as the Ohm's goes down (1 vs 4) it will draw more power from the amp (V=IR) if the amp is capable of powering it, the lower the resistance of the speaker the louder it will be (assuming the same watt/db rating). then a stock 4 Ohm speaker.. this is a trick competition speakers have used for decades.. competition amps can double the power with each 1/2 of the resistance.. so say you have a 50 watt amp and 1 * 4 ohm speaker.. you get 50 watts. put two 4 Ohm speakers in Parallel and you have a 2 Ohm load.. the amp will double to 100 Watts (put them in series and each speaker will drop to 12.5 watts-resistance has double amps will half). add 4 speakers in parallel and the amp in theory would put out 200 watts power out of that 50 watt amp.. that's out of one channel..

My old Orion 2x50HCCA ran 2x12" sub dual voice coil in Parallel (so 1 ohm) a pair of 6" MB quartz. 4x 4" (Orion and MB quartz) 4 tweeters.. all off one amp.. in a competition I was in the 50-100 Watt category. and installed in a blazer put out 134db.. (a jet taking off is 120db) Note the amp was huge and $$$ but it was classed as 100 watt amp.

Odds are if your not happy with the sound now, a new set of speakers won't make you happy. You will need a better amp and speakers. There are ways to "cheat" put a crossover filter on the factory speakers so they receive less base.. then add an amp so you have more power, swap the sub and line up the crossovers so the sub takes anything you take away from the regular speakers.. say cross over at 120HZ.. but any audio shop should be able to help you out with this.. Although there are a lot less of those around then when I was in high-school ;)
 

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All Car speakers are 4 Ohm.
This is absolutely false. My day job is designing high-end car audio amplifiers for the largest car audio system manufacturer in the world. We also design and build speakers with impedance ratings from 1 ohm to 10+ ohms, depending on the application/cost targets/performance level/etc.

Bose systems tend to use speakers with a lower nominal impedance (1 or 2 ohms generally). It all depends on the amplifier and speaker requirements in order to tune the car properly for a certain sound quality and SPL.

Speakers are rated for a nominal impedance, and that impedance varies with frequency. While 4 ohms is common, it's not the only nominal impedance out there.
 

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I replaced front bose speakers and tweeters with Morel TEMPO Ultra 602 4ohm.
positive effects:
- now I like the sound in my car
- tweeters plays realy pretty
- volume level of the front midbas was decreased (4ohm), and relatively to it, the volume of subwoofer was increased. I decrease rear speakers volume with fade settings in mylink.
negative effects:
- sounds of turn lights has fixed volume and with 4ohms midbas sound quietly.
 

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Forget about replacing speakers only with the Bose system in the GEN1
Use a dedicated amplifier with brand new speakers you selected according to your specs/tastes.
The good news is, the installation is quite easy since the 12V battery is in the trunk and all the wires to the speakers are there too (on the bose amp). The signal from the infotainement unit is also there (4 channels).
Keep in mind that the front tweeters are on a separate pair of wires, same for the front speakers so if you want to install a crossovver, this could all be installed in the trunk.
PM me is you need pictures and diagrams about the wiring, or search on this forum you will find them.

P.S. don't crank up too much your amplifier. The turn signal/chimes are on the front left channel and cannot be tamed down.
 
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