GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a very easy install, everything you need is in the trunk! I've been installing aftermaket sound systems in cars since I started driving, this might be the easiest install ever. No running wires from the front of the car. If you are quick you can probably get this knocked out in an hour or two. The factory amp is in the right corner under where the subwoofer cutout is for the cars with the bose package. There is a green plug with all the wires you need to tap for your amp inputs (wire colors below). The battery is very close by and there is a nice grounding post right above the factory amp. The factory system does present some tuning challenges however which I am still working on.

In picking out my amp and sub I wanted to not use a ton of space and mount the amp somwhere where it had some air yet be pretty hidden. I saw a couple of installs where people cut out the foam tray to fit an amp,but I didn't want to chop anything up. I lucked out in picking out the JBL GTX-500 amp, one because it was on sale for $99 and two because it just barely fits on top of the factory amp bracket, and it also has auto turn on, negating the need for a remote wire. For my sub, I went with a Pioneer TS-SWX3002, it about as small as you can get for a twelve inch subwoofer.

Like most modern cars, they are meant to be quickly put together but not easily taken apart, this is epsecially true for modern GM cars. The hardest peice for me to remove is the panel that covers the trunk latch area. I broke two clips because I was following Crutchfields instructions and should have removed the battery shroud to get more room and then it looks like you can lift up and slide that cover once you get the bottom clips loose. Additionally I broke both the trunk cover hangars as I removed them, only to find out they don't need to be removed.

Steps to remove the panels covering the factory amp:

1. Fold seats down, remove cargo floor, then pull out three round clips and the tire inflator retainer and lift the foam tray out.
2. Remove the battery shroud. Remove the back storage area panel by removing the latch cover panel first, then there are nine clips that hold the plate. pull up from the bottom and then attempt to slide it out when angled up. The two top clips are very difficult to get out.
3. Remove the passenger side trunk panel. There is one cargo knob (not sure what it is even for) that unscrews and then remove the cargo hook covers. Then pry the panel out. This might give you enough room to work, if you need to get the panel completely out, you'll need to remove the rear pillar cover as well

Getting to the speaker wires is fairly easy, you just have to remove some of the felt tape. The wire pairs are twisted and easy to identify. I used a 9v battery to confirm the rear colors matched. I used some 3m taps as I didn't want to cut the factory wiring. The amp came with some high level RCA adapters and I ran the wires up to those. The amp wedges right into the corner, I used one L bracket to mount the front left corner. The back left corner hole was right above a slot in the amp bracket, one bolt and a washer and that corner was mounted. Not going to win any points for beautiful install, but it is done with minimal damage to the car, only one hole was made in the plastic amp bracket. Running the power wires is super easy, the battery is two feet away and there are several good options for grounding, I used the factory amp grounding post. Running the wire to the sub is also trivial, there are plenty of options, but I went around the back of the battery over to the enclosure.

Overall the sound improvement is good, but I have to admit I'm less than thrilled with the setup. The biggest issue is the way the factory system tunes the output as volume increases. At low volumes there is a considerable "loudness" boost. Once you cross the half way point on the volume knob, bass is removed. Essentially your sub will not get any louder past 50% volume. Once you hit about 65% the bass becomes a bit of a hot mess. This makes tuning very difficult. If you tune if for low volume, you won't get full output when it is turned up loud. If you tune it "normally" for high volume, you'll get annoyingly strong bass at low volumes.

I'm really hoping that I'm not going to need a full on DSP to correct this. I understand the need for manufactures to tune their sound systems for the masses. But when you make the head unit part of the car, for the love of music, please make me able to turn this stuff off or provide line level output. I'm going to grab an Audiocontrol LC2i and see if that will be enough to get things squared away. It has an accubass function that is supposed to address the bass rolloff issue. If that doesn't work, I'll likely get another amp for the factory speakers and operate everything from 0-50%.

Amp Speaker Wires - Green Plug
* Left Rear - Green+Green Black
* Right Rear - White+White-Brown (or Dark Grey)
* Left Front - Yellow+Brown Yellow (or Dark Grey)
* Right Front - Blue + Blue Brown (or Dark Grey)




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Any updates on the factory volume bass roll off issue? I’m surprised the non-Bose system has an external amplifier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
444 Posts
Cool stuff, I'm about to install the factory Bose sub with an aftermarket amp in my car. I was leaning towards a Kenwood KAC-M3001, although I've also considered a KAC-M3004 4 channel amp that I could bridge 2 channels for the sub, and then amp the front channels. But honestly, I'm a little worried I'll be fighting the factory tuning a bit too much with the fronts also amplified.

Question on the speaker colors you listed:

Amp Speaker Wires - Green Plug
* Left Rear - Green+Green Black
* Right Rear - White+White-Brown (or Dark Grey)
* Left Front - Yellow+Brown Yellow (or Dark Grey)
* Right Front - Blue + Blue Brown (or Dark Grey)


The first one is the negative, and the second one the positive? Usually the two color wires, especially if they're a grey/brown/black secondary color are negative in my experience on working with cars. Just want to make sure I'm reading this right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Looking to add in a sub to my non Bose system as well. Thanks for the great information on this thread. Did anyone find out the polarity of the wire colors? I am looking to do the install this weekend and would hate to get the colors mixed up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Do you need to cut out the floorboard cover to go around the subwoofer when you are reinstalling everything back? How exposed is the subwoofer above the floorboard?
The sub was just there for testing. I didn't cut anything. The sub sat on top of that cover when it was complete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Any updates on the factory volume bass roll off issue? I’m surprised the non-Bose system has an external amplifier.
The roll off is so bad IMO the only way to deal with it is with the PAC audio MOST bus system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
This is a very easy install, everything you need is in the trunk!

Steps to remove the panels covering the factory amp:

1. Fold seats down, remove cargo floor, then pull out three round clips and the tire inflator retainer and lift the foam tray out.
2. Remove the battery shroud. Remove the back storage area panel by removing the latch cover panel first, then there are nine clips that hold the plate. pull up from the bottom and then attempt to slide it out when angled up. The two top clips are very difficult to get out.
3. Remove the passenger side trunk panel. There is one cargo knob (not sure what it is even for) that unscrews and then remove the cargo hook covers. Then pry the panel out. This might give you enough room to work, if you need to get the panel completely out, you'll need to remove the rear pillar cover as well

Amp Speaker Wires - Green Plug
* Left Rear - Green+Green Black
* Right Rear - White+White-Brown (or Dark Grey)
* Left Front - Yellow+Brown Yellow (or Dark Grey)
* Right Front - Blue + Blue Brown (or Dark Grey)
Huge thanks for this post. Later in the thread you mentioned the REM (switched on power) was taken from the cigarette lighter power. Where did you tap into this line? Looks like the fuse box isn't in the back near the battery.

I'm just looking to add a sub and am just going to steal signal off of one rear speaker.

Also did you get a Variable LOC Line Out Converter?

Thanks again to you and everyone. This is the best source of info for our Volts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
At the lighter itself. I used a cheap LOC but then got the PAC GM MOST interface.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
For the 'REM' power on signal I ended up using the rear accessory plug (just takes a screw under the rubber coaster part of the rear cupholder and it pops out).
For those wires and the remote sub controller I just tucked it under the rear seat bottoms.

For the audio signal (L, R) I stole the signal from the factory amp speaker wires* (rear passengers panel which requires the trunk mat, rear interior panel removed first). It's the connector closest to the front of the car. I pried just enough felt tape to work easier. After failing with those t-taps connectors I melted away the plastic off of the rear left and right speakers, twisted the amp kit wiring and wrapped it in electrical tape. From my amp wiring kit I used the fused power straight to the battery, the ground I used the already body grounded bolt/nut near the factory amp rear passenger fender well.

The sound is AMAZING in our cars. I wish every amp/sub install is this easy. I ended up just mounting it to where the BOSE sub would be. Takes almost no space and easy to tweak any settings if needed. Also stealing the signal off the rear speakers didn't really make the rear speakers noticeably quieter. I did send a little more signal to the rears just in case (via the stock deck's audio settings). I don't think there's any real loss of battery range but it's just been a couple days. Even the 1200w 'drain' is nothing compared to an aggressive step or two of the accelerator.

Make sure you test everything before putting all the panels back :/

This helped tremendously:
  • Left Rear - Green+Green Black
  • Right Rear - White+White-Brown (or Dark Grey)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I know this is an old thread however...

I helped a friend install my old sub box and amp in her Hyundai Elantra with the factory stereo. I had 2 Alpine Type R subs with an Alpine v12 1000w mono amp. The factory stereo would roll off the bass when you turn up the volume because the factory speakers would bass out. The solution was this thing called LC2i, we got one and hooked it up on the speaker lines and 100% better.


That is the link to the unit but it will add bass back as it rolls off from the factory stereo when the volume increases. It is like a magic box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
This is a very easy install, everything you need is in the trunk! I've been installing aftermaket sound systems in cars since I started driving, this might be the easiest install ever. No running wires from the front of the car. If you are quick you can probably get this knocked out in an hour or two. The factory amp is in the right corner under where the subwoofer cutout is for the cars with the bose package. There is a green plug with all the wires you need to tap for your amp inputs (wire colors below). The battery is very close by and there is a nice grounding post right above the factory amp. The factory system does present some tuning challenges however which I am still working on.

In picking out my amp and sub I wanted to not use a ton of space and mount the amp somwhere where it had some air yet be pretty hidden. I saw a couple of installs where people cut out the foam tray to fit an amp,but I didn't want to chop anything up. I lucked out in picking out the JBL GTX-500 amp, one because it was on sale for $99 and two because it just barely fits on top of the factory amp bracket, and it also has auto turn on, negating the need for a remote wire. For my sub, I went with a Pioneer TS-SWX3002, it about as small as you can get for a twelve inch subwoofer.

Like most modern cars, they are meant to be quickly put together but not easily taken apart, this is epsecially true for modern GM cars. The hardest peice for me to remove is the panel that covers the trunk latch area. I broke two clips because I was following Crutchfields instructions and should have removed the battery shroud to get more room and then it looks like you can lift up and slide that cover once you get the bottom clips loose. Additionally I broke both the trunk cover hangars as I removed them, only to find out they don't need to be removed.

Steps to remove the panels covering the factory amp:

1. Fold seats down, remove cargo floor, then pull out three round clips and the tire inflator retainer and lift the foam tray out.
2. Remove the battery shroud. Remove the back storage area panel by removing the latch cover panel first, then there are nine clips that hold the plate. pull up from the bottom and then attempt to slide it out when angled up. The two top clips are very difficult to get out.
3. Remove the passenger side trunk panel. There is one cargo knob (not sure what it is even for) that unscrews and then remove the cargo hook covers. Then pry the panel out. This might give you enough room to work, if you need to get the panel completely out, you'll need to remove the rear pillar cover as well

Getting to the speaker wires is fairly easy, you just have to remove some of the felt tape. The wire pairs are twisted and easy to identify. I used a 9v battery to confirm the rear colors matched. I used some 3m taps as I didn't want to cut the factory wiring. The amp came with some high level RCA adapters and I ran the wires up to those. The amp wedges right into the corner, I used one L bracket to mount the front left corner. The back left corner hole was right above a slot in the amp bracket, one bolt and a washer and that corner was mounted. Not going to win any points for beautiful install, but it is done with minimal damage to the car, only one hole was made in the plastic amp bracket. Running the power wires is super easy, the battery is two feet away and there are several good options for grounding, I used the factory amp grounding post. Running the wire to the sub is also trivial, there are plenty of options, but I went around the back of the battery over to the enclosure.

Overall the sound improvement is good, but I have to admit I'm less than thrilled with the setup. The biggest issue is the way the factory system tunes the output as volume increases. At low volumes there is a considerable "loudness" boost. Once you cross the half way point on the volume knob, bass is removed. Essentially your sub will not get any louder past 50% volume. Once you hit about 65% the bass becomes a bit of a hot mess. This makes tuning very difficult. If you tune if for low volume, you won't get full output when it is turned up loud. If you tune it "normally" for high volume, you'll get annoyingly strong bass at low volumes.

I'm really hoping that I'm not going to need a full on DSP to correct this. I understand the need for manufactures to tune their sound systems for the masses. But when you make the head unit part of the car, for the love of music, please make me able to turn this stuff off or provide line level output. I'm going to grab an Audiocontrol LC2i and see if that will be enough to get things squared away. It has an accubass function that is supposed to address the bass rolloff issue. If that doesn't work, I'll likely get another amp for the factory speakers and operate everything from 0-50%.

Amp Speaker Wires - Green Plug
* Left Rear - Green+Green Black
* Right Rear - White+White-Brown (or Dark Grey)
* Left Front - Yellow+Brown Yellow (or Dark Grey)
* Right Front - Blue + Blue Brown (or Dark Grey)




Try tapping the front door speakers for full output. I noticed my rear door speakers sounds a little lower than my front doors.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top