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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In 2019 my family was blessed to be given a 2012 Chevy Volt from a friend. They got a new 2017. They kept the original charger for the 12. In August of last year I replaced the 12v battery. We live in Indiana where it can get pretty cold, but it has not been horrible so far. I think the coldest it has gotten is low 20s F.

I purchased a charger from Amazon last year. And my husband wired it to the house. I plug my car in every.night. I rarely use all the battery life before it.gets plugged back in. And never get below 30 miles in the tank.

The car has been sitting, plugged in, for two days. It will not start. It says 'battery too cold plug in to warm'. I've talked to Chevy Advisors, because of the year and mileage, the warranty is no longer existing. I've read everything I can on this issue, and have found nothing to work. I do not have the money to have it towed and a dealer look at it.

There were battery temperature sensor codes. I've disconnected the 12v and left it off overnight. I've held the power button for 5 seconds. Tried to jump it. Checked all
Fluids. Is there a way to bypass the codes? My husband has a code reader and I tried to clear the codes. Even after disconnecting 12v as soon as power turns on, check engine light turns on.

Side note... It's not been that cold. Has showed maybe twice. Where I park, the vehicle is blocked from pretty much all wind, weather from the sides.

What can I do? This is my only vehicle. I can't afford a dealer. I can't not have my car! I am a instant cart shopper and delivery person. Sitting here not making money is driving me insane!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
P1E00 P0D26 P0A9E P0A9C. I'm honestly not sure if those are supposed to be zeroes or O. And when I connect the code reader now, it says no codes. But the engine light is on.
 

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The car says it is charging. There is a solid green light on the dash. But it will not go over a 3 Mile charge.
 

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According to your codes, temperature sensor #1 has failed. There is a recall program for battery balancing that allows up to 3 of the sensors to be ignored. A Volt technician on FB explained it:

Jaryd Carvell->Hi friendly neighborhood volt tech here! As I have tried to explain to so many people in this group. The recall (GM Program #:N172130462 Issued:Mar 28, 2019) is to correct your vehicle from improperly balancing the cells over time. The balance of those cells is part of what is used to calculate the GOM. When they reprogram the module 2 things happen. The vehicle starts to properly balancing the cells again, and the battery capacity learned values are reset. Over the course of multiple charge/discharge cycles the cells properly balance, and then the module relearns the capacity and the GOM adjusts accordingly. If your GOM goes up or down it means that the car had not been properly balancing the cells for quite some time. This process happens much slower without full discharge/charge cycles and so some people the adjustments happen much quicker than others. Also not all vehicles have the same cell imbalance. Even with the bad software some vehicles were staying close to properly balanced and others were quite a bit off. If yours was one that was close to correct, not much will change after the recall. If your cell balance was off, the more it's going to change after the recall. This is why some people noticed almost no change and others have had a change in the GOM. This is also why some people have seen the change quickly and some it took a while. Complete discharge/complete charge cycles will accelerate this learning process. Oh and one more thing, the 2013-2015 volts have 9 battery temp sensors but really only need 6. There is also software included in the recall that allows the vehicle to ignore up to 3 of the redundant temp sensors if they fail, rather than having to replace them. So there are multiple reasons to have this recall performed.
 
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Potentially good news! I think the below covers your situation.
"This service will be performed for you at no charge until October 31, 2021."

Call the advisor on the phone. Volt Advisor 877-486-5846
Perhaps they can contact a dealer unless you want to first to see if the below is what you'll get.

From the '1)' document below:
What We Will Do: Your GM dealer will update the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module 2 (HPCM2). This software update is intended to increase the amount of warning time provided. This service will be performed for you at no charge until October 31, 2021. After that, any applicable warranty will apply.

What You Should Do: To limit any possible inconvenience, we recommend that you contact your GM dealer as soon as possible to schedule an appointment for this software update.

If you have any questions or concerns that your dealer is unable to resolve, please contact the appropriate Customer Assistance Center at the number listed below.
Chevrolet 1-800-222-1020
a) Subject: N172130462-02 - Customer Satisfaction Program
Loss of Propulsion Due to Low Cell Voltage Revised population Models: 2012 - 2015 Chevrolet Volt
This bulletin has been revised to add model year 2012 Chevrolet Volt and model year 2016 Cadillac ELR vehicles. Please discard all copies of bulletin
N172130462-01 (18217).
__ Revised to add 2012 from below: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166248-9999.pdf

b) Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated Hybrid/EV Battery Temperature Sensor DTCs Set - Battery Too Cold Plug in to Warm Message May be Displayed
__ 2013+ (revised for 2012 above: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10155116-9999.pdf
 

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Also, double check that when you replace the battery, you replaced it with a proper AGM battery and not a regular lead acid battery. Several folks on this forum have accidentally made that mistake
 
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Wow! Thank you @JuneBug !! If this is a possibility that would be SO AMAZING! I'm not getting too excited. I did speak to a Chevy Advisor and she stated that my car had no warranty or anything and all they could do was get road side assistance 🙄 last time some dipshit who had never even touched a Volt showed up. I also spoke to a Chevy dealer service tech about an hour from where I live. And he said the usual 'youd have to have it towed and looked at". Then I called the Chevy dealer here in Kokomo. As I was having a meltdown, literally crying, he informed me it would cost $180 for tow and diagnosis. Just for LABOR to replace the sensors would be $840. A new battery would be 6k. And that if he was me he'd sell it for 3k and run like hell. He said Volts are anything but a 10 year throw away car! 😡 I have spent all afternoon hysterical. I even went as far as putting a electric heater, plugged into an extension cord, inside the car lol I will look into this! Thank you SO SO MUCH!

@llninja thank you! I am 100 % positive it is the right one. I looked it up before going to the store. Google in lens searched it when I got there, and made the guy double check before purchasing it!!

@scottf200 thank you!!!! Thank you!!! You have all have me a little hope!!!

Will update as soon as I hear anything!
 

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Dealership’s job is to try to sell you a new car every few years, so it’s not surprising that they might give you all the bad news that it could be and scare you into a new car payment. Don’t fall for it. Volts have been fairly reliable but with anything with moving parts, things break. Add a whole bunch of computers and more things could get wonky. Now if they plug in their diagnostic tools and discover that the battery and a whole bunch of electronics are fried, then that’s a different matter. Fingers crossed that the recall software patch might fix it.

BTW, the volt battery has something like an 8 year 100k mile warranty so even after the standard 3/36 is over, the battery might still be covered. Plus some states like California extend that further requiring manufacturer to have a 10 year 150k mile warranty on the battery.

now if the volt is indeed totalled, then you need to find a low mileage used vehicle that is UGLY and cheap, but mechanically sound since your Uber Eats job is destroying the value of anything you are driving. For example a 90’s Ford Taurus with 15k miles on it that some retiree bought and barely drove is hard to find, but those cream puffs are out there if you look hard enough. Alternatively, figure out where your passion is in life and start taking steps to get to that job with more upward mobility in pay. With a job like Uber, you are limited to the number of trips you can make because of the limited number of hours per day plus the fact you need to eat and sleep. It’s great for short term income, but will never be able to grow from $30k to $250k+ with Uber as a career.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FML... None of that is of any help. those things have already been done, therefore they can not do them again. So I am back to being screwed. Silver lining maybe.... It is SUPPOSED to get up to like 40 today. So everyone seems to think shes just gonna start right up! smh

@llninja my car is a 2012 with 154,138 miles on it. AndI I dont do Uber Eats. I do Instant Cart. I ALSO do SIPT and I ALSO work at KOHLS . I know this is isnt the place for it. But I am just REALLY hating life right now. My car is dead. My husband packed his **** and left last night. AND I found out yesterday I am being evicted. Maybe just push the car towards a cliff and jump in it right as it goes over? Oh wait, I live Central Indiana, there are no cliffs nearby.:cautious::cautious:
 

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FML... None of that is of any help. those things have already been done, therefore they can not do them again. So I am back to being screwed. Silver lining maybe.... It is SUPPOSED to get up to like 40 today. So everyone seems to think shes just gonna start right up! smh

@llninja my car is a 2012 with 154,138 miles on it. AndI I dont do Uber Eats. I do Instant Cart. I ALSO do SIPT and I ALSO work at KOHLS . I know this is isnt the place for it. But I am just REALLY hating life right now. My car is dead. My husband packed his **** and left last night. AND I found out yesterday I am being evicted. Maybe just push the car towards a cliff and jump in it right as it goes over? Oh wait, I live Central Indiana, there are no cliffs nearby.:cautious::cautious:
Wow, I feel for you. Last year was a pretty crappy year for a lot of people. Sorry I got the Uber Eats mixed up with Instant Cart, but you've got bigger problems at the moment. Definitely don't push your car into a cliff and jump in. Do you have any family or friends nearby who can give you a temporary place to stay until things settle down and you can see the light at the end of the tunnel? The 4 pillars are what you need: food, shelter, transportation, and utilities. Focus on those first - figure out whether the dealership can fix your volt for far less than the worst case scenario. As someone mentioned above, it temp sensor #1 has failed, maybe that's all you need.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
So this is probably a insane question. But is there a way to warm the battery from the outside? Like can I duct tape a heating pad to it? I literally out a space heater in my car yesterday just to try to wam the cab up. I'm desperately trying to get this going.
 

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Here's something to try (but driving this way is definitely not recommended). What happens if you pop the hood, then try to start the car? When everything is working, it is supposed to run the internal combustion engine to allow a service tech to test it. If it does start, close the hood and put it in hold mode....wait, you don't have Hold mode do you? I forget which model year they added Hold mode. But definitely do no drive with the hood popped open.
 
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It's a 2012, so no HOLD mode. But if she can get the engine started by raising the hood, she should drive it in MOUNTAIN mode.
 
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So this is probably a insane question. But is there a way to warm the battery from the outside? Like can I duct tape a heating pad to it? I literally out a space heater in my car yesterday just to try to wam the cab up. I'm desperately trying to get this going.
I'm not 100% convinced that the message about the battery being too cold is accurate or it is just a odd symptom. Potentially warming up the battery would change the way the sensor acts. Electronic can be funny temperature fluctuations.

The above two suggestions to attempt to start the gas engine with the hood up and put in Moutain Mode if possible are great suggestions.

Before I mentioned the last resort sort of method, please keep in mind that the Volts HV battery is very well insulated so it retains heat or cold pretty well.

It you had a large tarp to cover the entire car (think car cover or temporary garage {picture below}) ... then you could cover the car and carefully put your stated electric heater blowing warm air under it (not touching the heater to anything physical or close enough to burn) ... you could warm up the entire car which would include the battery. Maybe even 50 or 60 degrees would help (you mentioned it was 40 today). Ideally the tarp would go to the ground so heat would be held in better.

BE CAREFUL --- do at your own risk --- monitor --- again (not touching the heater to anything physical or close enough to burn) -- circulating air to warm up the entire space.

I realize this is an odd stretch and others can chime in. I'm from the northern states and places that get cold for a long time (ie. head bolt heater plugs are common at parking spots type of place) ... I've seen some odd things to warm up an engine block (ie. blank over engine and Sterno can underneath).

Conceptual example picture.
171681
171682
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's a 2012, so no HOLD mode. But if she can get the engine started by raising the hood, she should drive it in MOUNTAIN mode.
I just tried this. And it did not start. Do you know what that means?
 

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Another thing I thought of... It was running fine Friday. I went to a local tire place around here and they jacked up the car from the driver rear. Pretty high. Longshot here could it have like tilted a sensor or something ? Maybe if I jack it up the other way it will fall back lol
 

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Another thing I thought of... It was running fine Friday. I went to a local tire place around here and they jacked up the car from the driver rear. Pretty high. Longshot here could it have like tilted a sensor or something ? Maybe if I jack it up the other way it will fall back lol
In 2019 my family was blessed to be given a 2012 Chevy Volt from a friend. They got a new 2017. They kept the original charger for the 12. In August of last year I replaced the 12v battery. We live in Indiana where it can get pretty cold, but it has not been horrible so far. I think the coldest it has gotten is low 20s F.

I purchased a charger from Amazon last year. And my husband wired it to the house. I plug my car in every.night. I rarely use all the battery life before it.gets plugged back in. And never get below 30 miles in the tank.

The car has been sitting, plugged in, for two days. It will not start. It says 'battery too cold plug in to warm'. I've talked to Chevy Advisors, because of the year and mileage, the warranty is no longer existing. I've read everything I can on this issue, and have found nothing to work. I do not have the money to have it towed and a dealer look at it.

There were battery temperature sensor codes. I've disconnected the 12v and left it off overnight. I've held the power button for 5 seconds. Tried to jump it. Checked all
Fluids. Is there a way to bypass the codes? My husband has a code reader and I tried to clear the codes. Even after disconnecting 12v as soon as power turns on, check engine light turns on.

Side note... It's not been that cold. Has showed maybe twice. Where I park, the vehicle is blocked from pretty much all wind, weather from the sides.

What can I do? This is my only vehicle. I can't afford a dealer. I can't not have my car! I am a instant cart shopper and delivery person. Sitting here not making money is driving me insane!
What does depressing the Power Button for 5 seconds accomplish (I've forgotten)? I'm thinking that perhaps the car is not back in "regular" mode and so won't start. I am probably all wrong but I have to ask the forum.
 

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I would strongly caution against trying to externally warm the battery. More than likely the actual temperature has nothing to do with your troubles. It's most likely a failed sensor. If you hook up a diagnostic tool and check the temperatures being reported I'd bet one of the 9 will read -40, indicating a failed sensor. The recall will allow that sensor to be ignored.
 

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