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Discussion Starter #1
Bad things happen in threes, first our heat which should be fixed now. My Saturn Astra died while driving into work today now this.

The first time this happened was yesterday when we brought it in to get the coolant vacuumed and filled the correct way. So it happened to them directly when they tried to move it, now today. My wife had to walk away and then come back to the car for the key fob to get detected. First thing to do tonight is replace the batteries but what are the odds both batteries decided to semi die a day apart? Should I just call and schedule something since they experienced it first hand and can't claim "unable to duplicate?" I know 2012s have a TSB for this issue but anything definitive for 2013s?

Thanks everyone.
 

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I've had to replace both key fob batteries in my 2013. Not at the same time but pretty close. When I did replace them I also bought a spare 2 pack and threw it in the glovebox "just in case".

It's also usually a good idea to wipe the batteries down with rubbing alcohol before you install them so you get good clean connections.

If you see any other odd computer glitches then you may actually need a new 12v battery.

If you do replace that, remember it's an AGM battery, not a standard lead-acid.
 

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Sometimes the key fob isn't sensed when the battery is a little low and in "just the right place" in your pocket, I think.

The nice thing is that the Volt gives you this message to restart just in case you forgot it on the other side of your trip. But it only gives you one restart.

When I still want to turn it off, I usually press the brake to restart, then turn it back off. It gives me peace of mind that the car fully shut down.
 

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not unexpected at all, your 3+ years on the FOB battery, this is exactly what happens when the battery gets weak
 

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Often it'll give you a message on the DIC beforehand that the remote battery is low, but you DO have to regularly use the actual buttons to do things like lock or unlock the doors. (That'll also help tell the Volt that you changed the battery too, when you do, to clear the message.) There seems to be other kinds of information exchanged between fob and car than just the command and fob ID...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've had to replace both key fob batteries in my 2013. Not at the same time but pretty close. When I did replace them I also bought a spare 2 pack and threw it in the glovebox "just in case".

It's also usually a good idea to wipe the batteries down with rubbing alcohol before you install them so you get good clean connections.

If you see any other odd computer glitches then you may actually need a new 12v battery.

If you do replace that, remember it's an AGM battery, not a standard lead-acid.
You called it. Original battery was getting weak. We replaced it with an AutoZone duralast platinum AGM. We also replaced the key fob batteries just be safe. My understanding is the OEM is AGM and only another AGM should be used because the possibility of it venting inside since it's in the trunk. I've never seen the little vent tube on the battery like what these have so I suppose that's the vent tube.

Either way I don't want to get into a battery debate but I've have nothing but good luck with Duralast AGMs. It's my understanding Johnson controls supplies them for AutoZone.
 

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Well, I see this from time to time on both cars. I've replaced both the key fob batteries and the 12v batteries, and it still happens. I think it's because my keys are in my pocket, and maybe they slip down too far on the side of the console. All I have to do is try again, and it works.
 
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