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Discussion Starter #21
More update. 2+ weeks since the issue appeared, it has been resolved. I delayed posting to be sure. The no-EV-mode-heat problem seemed to vanish when I pulled the 5 amp fuse, and reinserted it, as recommend by somms (see thread). I will advise if anything seems amiss, but so far everything is back to normal.
 

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Wow, thats pretty awesome if all you had to do was re-seat a fuse! I wish that worked for me.

It appears I have unfortunately joined the club of people with heating problems. I have a 2014 Volt....34K miles, but out of warranty by 3 months due to the initial 36 months being over (I reeeeallly wish I bought the extended warranty now!). Regardless of if I choose ECO or Comfort, if I crank up the heat the Volt still says its using air conditioning....the heat icon is 'off'. I also checked the power consumption and it stays at around .5 kw when parked with the heater supposedly on (so clearly the only thing running is the fan). I checked all related fuses (including re-seating them) and no problems there unfortunately.

Interestingly, if I run in Hold mode the heat works fine and the heat icon turns to 'on'. Has anyone had this specific flavor of the problem? If so, what was the culprit?

Also, does everyone take Volts to the dealer when they break down, or have you tried other repair places? Dealers are often expensive IMO
 

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More update. 2+ weeks since the issue appeared, it has been resolved. I delayed posting to be sure. The no-EV-mode-heat problem seemed to vanish when I pulled the 5 amp fuse, and reinserted it, as recommend by somms (see thread). I will advise if anything seems amiss, but so far everything is back to normal.
Typically by pulling that fuse, it ends up being a software update issue. But as long as you have it under control. I am surprised the dealer could not find at least the need for software update.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Mike, are you sure you pulled the correct fuse? Double-check Somms' diagram in this link, against your fuse box. Also, when you pull the fuse, leave it out for five minutes to ensure it really powers down. Probably would be wise to check the fuse with a volt-ohmmeter, as a fuse can look good, but test bad.

Finally, if you bring your Volt into the Chevy dealer, TELL them that the coolant heater control module (read up on this forum) is covered under the VOLTEC warranty, as it has 330V.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
@2, as it turned out my visit to the dealer was unhelpful. They had it for two days before declaring that the week of Thanksgiving was too busy to fit me in. I suspect that they just weren't interested in troubleshooting an unfamiliar model. I won't be back.
 

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I tried pulling the fuse again this morning and left it out for a full 15 minutes. Still no luck. Its the correct fuse and I checked it with my multimeter...the fuse itself is ok. I guess I have a different problem than you did.



I haven't heard of anyone getting the Voltec warranty to cover the coolant heater control module. I read on another thread that a few people had tried to talk their dealers into in but they all said no. Did you get your dealer to agree to it?

This seems like it should be a recall (or class action lawsuit) if its this common on low-mileage volts.
 

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I tried pulling the fuse again this morning and left it out for a full 15 minutes. Still no luck. Its the correct fuse and I checked it with my multimeter...the fuse itself is ok. I guess I have a different problem than you did.



I haven't heard of anyone getting the Voltec warranty to cover the coolant heater control module. I read on another thread that a few people had tried to talk their dealers into in but they all said no. Did you get your dealer to agree to it?

This seems like it should be a recall (or class action lawsuit) if its this common on low-mileage volts.
I really think if the HCM needs replaced you can argue that it is covered. In the warranty book it says the "high voltage wiring" is covered. the HCM is part of the HV wiring.
 

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I really think if the HCM needs replaced you can argue that it is covered. In the warranty book it says the "high voltage wiring" is covered. the HCM is part of the HV wiring.
No, it’s a component the HV wiring is connected too. That was GMs line to me when I was fighting them with it. They got cheap for these components and their customers are paying the price and GM cold care less. But it shouldn’t be a surprise. That’s normal GM.
 

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Would the K10 heater, or the HCM ever be working intermittently, or do they just completely fail? I also wonder how easy either of those would be to repair, vs replace...?
 

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Would the K10 heater, or the HCM ever be working intermittently, or do they just completely fail? I also wonder how easy either of those would be to repair, vs replace...?


HEATER - GM (22851153)

General Motors 22851153 - OEM Part

The K10 is a sealed unit with no user replaceable parts. You would just have to replace it outright.

22884415 & 22808243 are the current GM calibrations avail from SPS for part#22851153 K10 installed on my Gen1: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?305009-VCX-nano&p=4359057#post4359057
 

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HEATER - GM (22851153)

General Motors 22851153 - OEM Part

The K10 is a sealed unit with no user replaceable parts that you would just have to replace it outright...
Very good info! What about the HCM? I’m a PCB Designer and an electronics Technician, so I’d love to tinker with a broken module to find out what breaks and if there would be an easy fix :)


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HEATER - GM (22851153)

General Motors 22851153 - OEM Part

The K10 is a sealed unit with no user replaceable parts. You would just have to replace it outright.

22884415 & 22808243 are the current GM calibrations avail from SPS for part#22851153 K10 installed on my Gen1: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?305009-VCX-nano&p=4359057#post4359057
You do realize he said "repair", right? Anything can be repaired. "Not user serviceable" != unrepairable. Whether or not a repair is worth someone's time; well that depends on the person, their skills, and weighing the costs.

Just ran into this issue today - preheat worked yesterday, and I used heat on the way home last night. This morning no heat, preheat or otherwise. Researching options.
 

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I've got a 2013 Volt. Wondering if I'm have a failing Aux pump. 1 of 10 uses I get zero heat just cold air. When it works I hear a loud humming/buzzing coming from the front of the car. Fluid levels all seem good
 

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I've got a 2013 Volt. Wondering if I'm have a failing Aux pump. 1 of 10 uses I get zero heat just cold air. When it works I hear a loud humming/buzzing coming from the front of the car. Fluid levels all seem good
2013 seems to not have as many Aux pump failures as other years. However the two things they do have is the K10 heater control module failure and there is a software update to correct the intermittent heat issue. the newest software update is from a few months ago. the bad CHCM dates back to a defective batch.
 

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I had this issue with my 2013. I could pull the fuse and reset the heating system and get heat for some indeterminate amount of time. I decided to update the software myself with a VCX nano and a subscription to SPS. Since the software update my heat has been perfect, much better than ever.

I was pretty sure it wasn't the pump as I could control the RPM of the pump via GDS2 and watch the reported pump encoder frequency change accordingly.
 

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So is the Buzzing/humming noise normal when fan speed is on?
This is why I thought it maybe failing.

If its just a software issue will a regular Chevrolet dealer be able to update it?
The dealer I got it from in September is about 35 miles away but is one of the top Volt/Bolt EV dealers in MN.
The closer dealer has one charging station for service and only seems to deal in orders of new Volts/Bolts
 

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So is the Buzzing/humming noise normal when fan speed is on?
This is why I thought it maybe failing.
Yes, completely normal.

If its just a software issue will a regular Chevrolet dealer be able to update it?
The dealer I got it from in September is about 35 miles away but is one of the top Volt/Bolt EV dealers in MN.
The closer dealer has one charging station for service and only seems to deal in orders of new Volts/Bolts
Yes, the Chevy dealer should be able to update it. It is under PIC9978A. Here is what they did to my 2013 a couple months ago. Use it if you need to. PIC9978A_heat_software_update.jpg

Also, if it is the CHCM you could use this
CHCM_replaced.jpg
 

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(Posted in a much older thread so I found this current one and thought to try my luck)

Hi everyone,

I guess I now get to enjoy being part of this group of “no heaters”.

Four days ago I got to experience the heat failure in EV mode. At least it was 42 degrees in a driving rain storm so humidity levels were sky high with foggy windows to boot.

It actually started a hour earlier when I left work. At that point, it had not started raining yet. However, when I was getting the car out of our work hangar, I activated the “pre-conditioning” mode which I did note as sounding “odd”.

I am familiar with the sounds the car makes. In this settings, all sorts of electronic wizardry takes place as the pixy-dust and magic happens while the computer does it thing running the components. It began making a very strange “gurgling”(scientific definition) sound from the right front of the engine/bumper area when I decided to pop the hood and take a look. The moment I raised the hood the 1” to access the latch, everything stopped. Now I haven’t researched the system enough to determine if there is a safety cutoff of the pre-heat process if the hood is raised, although the entire system shut-down when this was done. This was at around 4 minutes into the 10 minute cycle. So I closed the hood and headed home.

My first leg of the commute was at freeway speeds and I kick over to “hold” and kick on the heat. I did not detect any heating issues in this mode which I understand will be normal in the “no heat in EV mode” problem. 40 miles later I roll into a gas station to top the tank for the wife’s commute the following few days. Even in “hold” mode, the car switches to battery when speeds are low and in traffic. When I pulled into the station, freezing air was blowing inside the cabin. I honestly didn’t think anything of it before shutting down for fuel. During this time, rain started as I waited to fill up and during as well. Add several open door moments and lots o moisture in the air, equals plenty of fogging inside the Volt. When I pulled out to head up the hill, another 35 miles, I really noticed the cold air and cold air blowing through the defroster as well, which compounded the fogging issue. Once I entered the freeway, I kicked back over to “hold” and got the heat back. Now realizing there is a possible issue, I toggled between normal and hold for the trip home. Each time, I reached down to feel the air temp coming from the lower blower only to feel the temp wax and wain from hot to cold with each driving mode change. Since we have owned the car, there have been a couple of times that the interior did not warm up on cold mornings when I activated the “pre-conditioning” while still jacked into the home power. I assumed this was due to me not setting the temp properly. I guess this was an indication of things to come. No error or warnings popped up on the dash or via OnStar either. The wife reported only warm air while in “hold” and at freeway speeds. The next day I used the car for my commute, I closely monitored the issue and took notes.

Pre-conditioning mode, no heat but all fans and servos running.

Interior reading, only cold air being pushed out.


Another thing I noticed which I am unsure if it is related, the difference between the front windshield defroster button and auto. When I touch the front defroster, the fan comes on very low, but if I first hit the defrost button, then kick the climate to “auto” then back to defroster only, it becomes a windstorm from the defroster vents. Can someone chime in if this is normal.

We purchased the 2015 Volt in December from a dealer with an extended warranty(glad we did). I have since discovered that it is out of the 36 month bumper to bumper warranty based upon the “in service” date. I have an appointment at a Chevy dealer Monday. In speaking with the advisor, they are aware of this issue and have a few things to look into as to the cause. Since I am not getting any type of an obvious error code or system message, does this mean I am in for a battle to get this fixed. Or are there any suggestions anyone has before we go to the dealer to get this addressed?

Thanks


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Discussion Starter #39
As OP on this thread, I think you are on the right course, to let the dealer address it under warranty. That will put a "stake in the ground" that you had this problem on this date. Thereafter, it's up to the dealer and GM to fix, as long as the repair remains under warranty. I hope your dealer is more savvy than mine. If the dealer is unresponsive or wants $$$, then check back.
 

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(Posted in a much older thread so I found this current one and thought to try my luck)

Hi everyone,

I guess I now get to enjoy being part of this group of “no heaters”.

Four days ago I got to experience the heat failure in EV mode. At least it was 42 degrees in a driving rain storm so humidity levels were sky high with foggy windows to boot.

It actually started a hour earlier when I left work. At that point, it had not started raining yet. However, when I was getting the car out of our work hangar, I activated the “pre-conditioning” mode which I did note as sounding “odd”.

I am familiar with the sounds the car makes. In this settings, all sorts of electronic wizardry takes place as the pixy-dust and magic happens while the computer does it thing running the components. It began making a very strange “gurgling”(scientific definition) sound from the right front of the engine/bumper area when I decided to pop the hood and take a look. The moment I raised the hood the 1” to access the latch, everything stopped. Now I haven’t researched the system enough to determine if there is a safety cutoff of the pre-heat process if the hood is raised, although the entire system shut-down when this was done. This was at around 4 minutes into the 10 minute cycle. So I closed the hood and headed home.

My first leg of the commute was at freeway speeds and I kick over to “hold” and kick on the heat. I did not detect any heating issues in this mode which I understand will be normal in the “no heat in EV mode” problem. 40 miles later I roll into a gas station to top the tank for the wife’s commute the following few days. Even in “hold” mode, the car switches to battery when speeds are low and in traffic. When I pulled into the station, freezing air was blowing inside the cabin. I honestly didn’t think anything of it before shutting down for fuel. During this time, rain started as I waited to fill up and during as well. Add several open door moments and lots o moisture in the air, equals plenty of fogging inside the Volt. When I pulled out to head up the hill, another 35 miles, I really noticed the cold air and cold air blowing through the defroster as well, which compounded the fogging issue. Once I entered the freeway, I kicked back over to “hold” and got the heat back. Now realizing there is a possible issue, I toggled between normal and hold for the trip home. Each time, I reached down to feel the air temp coming from the lower blower only to feel the temp wax and wain from hot to cold with each driving mode change. Since we have owned the car, there have been a couple of times that the interior did not warm up on cold mornings when I activated the “pre-conditioning” while still jacked into the home power. I assumed this was due to me not setting the temp properly. I guess this was an indication of things to come. No error or warnings popped up on the dash or via OnStar either. The wife reported only warm air while in “hold” and at freeway speeds. The next day I used the car for my commute, I closely monitored the issue and took notes.

Pre-conditioning mode, no heat but all fans and servos running.

Interior reading, only cold air being pushed out.


Another thing I noticed which I am unsure if it is related, the difference between the front windshield defroster button and auto. When I touch the front defroster, the fan comes on very low, but if I first hit the defrost button, then kick the climate to “auto” then back to defroster only, it becomes a windstorm from the defroster vents. Can someone chime in if this is normal.

We purchased the 2015 Volt in December from a dealer with an extended warranty(glad we did). I have since discovered that it is out of the 36 month bumper to bumper warranty based upon the “in service” date. I have an appointment at a Chevy dealer Monday. In speaking with the advisor, they are aware of this issue and have a few things to look into as to the cause. Since I am not getting any type of an obvious error code or system message, does this mean I am in for a battle to get this fixed. Or are there any suggestions anyone has before we go to the dealer to get this addressed?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What does the kwh draw say when you demand heat? Especially immediately upon power up?
 
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