I think you may be mis-reading the diagram in the manual. At the moment I only have a copy of the 2013 manual but it indicates that Fuse 13 (in the upper right corner of the diagram) is for Cabin Heater Pump and Valve. Relay 13, in the center of the diagram, is listed a couple of pages later in the Mini-Fuse table as Empty. And Relay 3 is for the Powertrain. Fuse 3 is unused.
No heat in 2013 on EV
So I took my 13 to the dealer for the axle click noise and no heat most of the time I'm on electric.
They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.
After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.
They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.
The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.
kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.
After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.
They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.
The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.
kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
41 - 47 of 47 Posts
Wow, yup, I was. Thank you. I'm slightly disappointed that Chevy's labeling system has duplicate numbers used within the same fuse box, as they had the sense to do differently in the other fuse boxes (F1 for fuse 1 and R1 for relay 1, etc.). But I'm most of all disappointed that the service department at Good Chev in Renton, WA who didn't notice this mistake. I had their resident Volt technician looking at the fuse box and he just said that he doesn't think there's normally a fuse/relay there (in relay spot 13), but doesn't know why the owner's manual and service book say that there should be a fuse there. Another dealership in the area didn't catch the mistake either, but I was only talking to a parts guy over the phone, so I'll give them a little more credit.I think you may be mis-reading the diagram in the manual. At the moment I only have a copy of the 2013 manual but it indicates that Fuse 13 (in the upper right corner of the diagram) is for Cabin Heater Pump and Valve. Relay 13, in the center of the diagram, is listed a couple of pages later in the Mini-Fuse table as Empty. And Relay 3 is for the Powertrain. Fuse 3 is unused.
After getting that sorted out, I checked all the fuses (properly identifying them this time), and none are missing or blown. Drat! I was hoping this fix would be cheap and easy.
I'm having similar symptoms as described above, where I'll turn the temp up hi, but only get warm air (intermittently) if the gas engine is running. The heater icon on the corner of the climate screen will only briefly say "on", before switching back to "off". When testing it parked, the power draw only rises for an extremely brief moment (blink and you'll miss it), then it drops back down to 0.5 kWh.
Yes I used to get warm air intermittently, finally July 2014 got PIC-5796C software loaded into the HVAC module K33 and finally heat.
However .... start of this winter in Australia I had the A/C running flat out with heat.
So ordered a new K33 module from the USA (Made in China) this one was only dated a week later than my original unit that had a yellow sticker with a blue tick (means they were having issues at the time) on the outside exact same p/n 13588010 The newer K33 module now has reworked circuit board version 2.2 vs X of the original unit yet the outer case date was only 7 days later labeled.
Upon install it had totally the wrong firmware as expected and I had to take it in 3 hours wasted again to have it programmed $214 AUD non warranty.
heat is back, but it still short cycles the poor A/C compressor driving it crazy at times.
This is unacceptable as it show that the people responsible for programming the firmware at GM have done a very poor job in fine tuning the system controlled by the HVAC controller K33 for the 2013 model year.
I have replaced the windscreen screen humidity sensor (no difference) and await new top and bottom HVAC temp sensors, but I'm sure it will make no difference.
& Yes I have deselected Auto demist etc. in the settings, tried it in full Auto mode & also manual override to feet or center with no difference.
What will it take for GM to investigate and revise the software in the K33 Controller.
It is just crazy they made it so complicated to save energy, that it is now doing the exact opposite by running the A/C intermittently when there is absolutely no need for humidity control while also abusing the A/C compressor by cycling it on momentary for a second.
I fear GM has moved onto to the new model and will not go back to Gen1 to fix what they should have in the first place.
For others with no heat, besides the coolant heater pump, the electric heater itself, the control valve and if you got bad engine coolant it likely will clog the so called "lifetime filter sock" that is between the heater core and valve - looks like a plastic spacer between two heater hoses.
Wish GM was more pro active in resolving these heat issues and finalize ie fine tune their programming on the K33 module.
OR add another button to disable cabin A/C for winter. Now that would save some watts and prolong the life of the A/C system.
You can tell I'm not happy even living in a fairly mild dry climate with the above vs snow country & real cold which you deal with .
However .... start of this winter in Australia I had the A/C running flat out with heat.
So ordered a new K33 module from the USA (Made in China) this one was only dated a week later than my original unit that had a yellow sticker with a blue tick (means they were having issues at the time) on the outside exact same p/n 13588010 The newer K33 module now has reworked circuit board version 2.2 vs X of the original unit yet the outer case date was only 7 days later labeled.
Upon install it had totally the wrong firmware as expected and I had to take it in 3 hours wasted again to have it programmed $214 AUD non warranty.
heat is back, but it still short cycles the poor A/C compressor driving it crazy at times.
This is unacceptable as it show that the people responsible for programming the firmware at GM have done a very poor job in fine tuning the system controlled by the HVAC controller K33 for the 2013 model year.
I have replaced the windscreen screen humidity sensor (no difference) and await new top and bottom HVAC temp sensors, but I'm sure it will make no difference.
& Yes I have deselected Auto demist etc. in the settings, tried it in full Auto mode & also manual override to feet or center with no difference.
What will it take for GM to investigate and revise the software in the K33 Controller.
It is just crazy they made it so complicated to save energy, that it is now doing the exact opposite by running the A/C intermittently when there is absolutely no need for humidity control while also abusing the A/C compressor by cycling it on momentary for a second.
I fear GM has moved onto to the new model and will not go back to Gen1 to fix what they should have in the first place.
For others with no heat, besides the coolant heater pump, the electric heater itself, the control valve and if you got bad engine coolant it likely will clog the so called "lifetime filter sock" that is between the heater core and valve - looks like a plastic spacer between two heater hoses.
Wish GM was more pro active in resolving these heat issues and finalize ie fine tune their programming on the K33 module.
OR add another button to disable cabin A/C for winter. Now that would save some watts and prolong the life of the A/C system.
You can tell I'm not happy even living in a fairly mild dry climate with the above vs snow country & real cold which you deal with .
You need the auxiliary coolant pump. It's behind the wheel skirt on the passenger side. Takes about half hour to replace.Wow, yup, I was. Thank you. I'm slightly disappointed that Chevy's labeling system has duplicate numbers used within the same fuse box, as they had the sense to do differently in the other fuse boxes (F1 for fuse 1 and R1 for relay 1, etc.). But I'm most of all disappointed that the service department at Good Chev in Renton, WA who didn't notice this mistake. I had their resident Volt technician looking at the fuse box and he just said that he doesn't think there's normally a fuse/relay there (in relay spot 13), but doesn't know why the owner's manual and service book say that there should be a fuse there. Another dealership in the area didn't catch the mistake either, but I was only talking to a parts guy over the phone, so I'll give them a little more credit.
After getting that sorted out, I checked all the fuses (properly identifying them this time), and none are missing or blown. Drat! I was hoping this fix would be cheap and easy.
I'm having similar symptoms as described above, where I'll turn the temp up hi, but only get warm air (intermittently) if the gas engine is running. The heater icon on the corner of the climate screen will only briefly say "on", before switching back to "off". When testing it parked, the power draw only rises for an extremely brief moment (blink and you'll miss it), then it drops back down to 0.5 kWh.
Thank you. Since the weather warmed up right as we were discussing this last, I had put this issue on the back burner for the time being. Now that the weather has cooled down, I've started needing to use the heater to defrost the windshield again. At first, I was getting similar results, no apparent heat unless the ICE was running. However, the other day I realized the air coming out was quite warm and I was in EV mode! Ever since then it seems to be working okay (although the heat in EV mode still feels kinda anemic [not as warm as I am used to cars putting out]). Does this behavior line up with how an auxiliary coolant pump might behave?
The Volt does assess insolation (sunlight coming in, as hitting the dashboard sensor) as part of its plan for hitting the set climate temperature. It also seems to figure that getting to a set temperature in ten minutes or so is okay. (It's probably not coincidence that this is about the same amount of time that an on-charger temperature preconditioning cycle lasts.) So yeah, if it's 45F outside and a sunny day already and the cabin is 60F already before you opened the door and got in, it's not gonna blast a hairdryer at your face to hit 73.Thank you. Since the weather warmed up right as we were discussing this last, I had put this issue on the back burner for the time being. Now that the weather has cooled down, I've started needing to use the heater to defrost the windshield again. At first, I was getting similar results, no apparent heat unless the ICE was running. However, the other day I realized the air coming out was quite warm and I was in EV mode! Ever since then it seems to be working okay (although the heat in EV mode still feels kinda anemic [not as warm as I am used to cars putting out]). Does this behavior line up with how an auxiliary coolant pump might behave?
Depends on what you have the temp set to and also if you have it on ECO or Comfort. Set it to Comfort and the heat setting as set to HI.Thank you. Since the weather warmed up right as we were discussing this last, I had put this issue on the back burner for the time being. Now that the weather has cooled down, I've started needing to use the heater to defrost the windshield again. At first, I was getting similar results, no apparent heat unless the ICE was running. However, the other day I realized the air coming out was quite warm and I was in EV mode! Ever since then it seems to be working okay (although the heat in EV mode still feels kinda anemic [not as warm as I am used to cars putting out]). Does this behavior line up with how an auxiliary coolant pump might behave?
41 - 47 of 47 Posts
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