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No heat in 2013 on EV

7677 Views 46 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  2VoltFamily
So I took my 13 to the dealer for the axle click noise and no heat most of the time I'm on electric.

They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.

After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.

They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.

The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.

kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
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Is the axle click noise every rotation, or only when you accelerate and decelerate (and more like a thump than a click)? Does it happen once, every time you change speeds?
It's the very definition of a click just after I accelerate or when braking with regen in L just before the car slows as much as it will in L. Just once click though. Not t a steady noise.
Then take the front wheels off and torque the front axle nuts. If you let it go for too long, you might end up needing new bearings. The dealer is wrong about the brakes. I had the same proble, I was thinking it might be a bad bearing, and made the mistake of bringing it into the dealership before even trying to tighten the nuts. It would have been a great excuse for a new right-sized socket. I'm kicking myself for the $116 I spent on something I could have done myself.

Another forum user carefully pried out the center caps and used a socket extender to get to the axle nuts without taking off the wheels.
So I've had more time to play with this finally. There is no kW draw when I have the heat on and the heat symbol is off. I have heat once the ICE warms up. Once the ICE turns off my heat goes away. So I'm guessing it's the electric coolant pump as I have heat when the ICE water pump is running but even if the coolant is hot I loose heat once the ICE shuts off.

When I'm driving, randomly the heat symbol in the lower right corner turns to on for a few seconds randomly but I can't tell if there is a kW draw when it does this as I'm driving when it does it.

Any other ideas? I have a crappy dealer that isn't willing to help me and they just want me to throw money at it with my fingers crossed.
If this happens every time, there's definitely something wrong that the dealer should be able to fix. But before you do that, check that all the fuses to the heating system are good. For my 2013, I would occasionally have no heat maybe once or twice a winter month, but that was fixed with a software update
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