That's what I told him from research on here and he said that flashing new software is the repair. Do you know the partnumber for the module or what GM calls it so I can just replace it myself? As it's not under warranty I don't want to deal with a dealer any more than I have too.
No heat in 2013 on EV
So I took my 13 to the dealer for the axle click noise and no heat most of the time I'm on electric.
They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.
After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.
They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.
The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.
kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
They said my caliper slides need to be lubricated to fix the axle click noise. They want $70 an axle and want to do both axles. And they want to reprogram the HVAC module for $218 plus a $109 diagnosis fee. I told them I'll pass on everything.
After the car sits at night I have heat. If I stop somewhere and shut the car off then back on again within a few hours I won't have heat the 2nd time. If the car sits 5-6 hours the second time, I'll have heat.
They are reprogramming the charger module under voltec warranty as there was a code for it.
The SW actually told me the engine NEEDS to run to produce heat as the car needs to be in open loop to make heat. So basically he doesn't have a clue. And this is the dealership with the volt specialist in the area.
kWh jumps up as if the heater is drawing power but no heat.
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It's the very definition of a click just after I accelerate or when braking with regen in L just before the car slows as much as it will in L. Just once click though. Not t a steady noise.Is the axle click noise every rotation, or only when you accelerate and decelerate (and more like a thump than a click)? Does it happen once, every time you change speeds?
Yea, that's my thought as well. A program just won't change for no reason. Something is wrong, telling it to do the wrong thing or the module itself can't do what it was or interpret information.It does make me ill that they would charge that much for flashing. Reflashing is acknowledging the module was not programmed correctly when sold.
I used to flash friend's cars in under 30 minutes total time in my driveway.
BTW - a computer program flash into a module doesn't "fail" due to decay. At least not that I've seen. If the car heat was working before, now it does not, how the hell is a flash going to change anything? The old flash fell out on the ground?
According to the volt advisor, there is no known problem with axle nuts it's and the heater control module would not be covered under any warranty as it's not part of the voltec system but he did insist that a reflash would not fix any problems and may actually make things worse.Get ahold of your Volt Advisor. I believe this dealer is trying to scam you. GM knows a batch of the heater modules were defective. And they know some of the cars didn't get the axles tightened to the correct spec.
Wow, that is so helpful, thank you so much. I am not a basic DIY guy. I would have no problems removing an intake manifold by myself at home, I removed much more than an intake manifold in my garage.It is the K-10 heater module. Seems odd it would work sometimes and not others. If you see a kw draw on the power screen when requesting heat, then the module is drawing current and working. It's a bitch to change and you have to disable the HV system as it's fed by 300v from the battery pack. You also have to remove the engine intake manifold to get at it, mounted on the firewall. Actually your problem sounds more to me like the switching valve which has also had some problems. Or possibly the coolant pump. Replacing any of those 3 things also requires draining and refilling the engine cooling system, which is done with a vacuum filling device. The coolant pump for heater is located on lower right side inboard of right front wheel, mounted to frame rail. When electric heat is on, you should be able to put your hand on it and feel if its pumping. Unfortunately servicing the HVAC system is not a do-it-yourself project. Do you have heat when the engine is running? I also would agree your clicking sounds like axle nuts, not brake caliper pins. The caliper pins have boots that seal in the grease and keep out moisture and dirt.
I do have heat with the engine running. Without fail.
I'm in the middle of moving right now, but when I'm done I will have to see if the heat pump runs every time, is there an easy way to check the switching valve?
Maybe a class action lawsuit for all of us suffering. I mean the Canadians have one just because the ICE uses gasoline. Lol.My 2014 Volt has exactly the same problems. Clicking noise coming from front axle when stopping/starting. Also no heat in EV mode only. 42k miles. Out of warranty. Volt with similar heater problem is being worked on waiting for pump part number 13597899. It's on backorder. Service advisor says sometimes a backorder means there is an issue with the part and a new part number will replace it. He recommended that I wait but this is a cold winter so I'm not using EV mode much. Very unhappy and am planning to communicate my feelings about GM to everyone. I've talked others into buying Volts but now I feel guilty. Sales and service has been an old school low class experience compared to their competitors. Please keep this thread updated with any solutions you discover. These are defects that should be covered for free even after the warranty period has ended.
So I've had more time to play with this finally. There is no kW draw when I have the heat on and the heat symbol is off. I have heat once the ICE warms up. Once the ICE turns off my heat goes away. So I'm guessing it's the electric coolant pump as I have heat when the ICE water pump is running but even if the coolant is hot I loose heat once the ICE shuts off.
When I'm driving, randomly the heat symbol in the lower right corner turns to on for a few seconds randomly but I can't tell if there is a kW draw when it does this as I'm driving when it does it.
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Any other ideas? I have a crappy dealer that isn't willing to help me and they just want me to throw money at it with my fingers crossed.
When I'm driving, randomly the heat symbol in the lower right corner turns to on for a few seconds randomly but I can't tell if there is a kW draw when it does this as I'm driving when it does it.
Any other ideas? I have a crappy dealer that isn't willing to help me and they just want me to throw money at it with my fingers crossed.
Do you have your work order with the part number? I'm out of B2B so I'm doing it myself.It was the coolant pump on our '15. Never worked properly, finally got fixed two months ago. EV operation heat is fine now.
Another piece to the puzzle my gf just reminded me about. I did a pre condition a week or so ago and when we came out my gf asked me if the ICE was running because it was super loud. It was not the ICE without a doubt. Could this be a sign the coolant pump bearings went? Would there be any stored codes if that's the case?
Would any of this be covered by the voltec warranty? It would seem so as these systems need to work for battery conditioning. Do you know the location of these valves and how I can check them? Are they blend doors like inside a dash for the HVAC?As for the heater, it seems there can be one or multiple of a relatively small number of faults here;-
a) the electric coolant pump is not working properly. This IS covered under the Voltec drive warranty.
b) if power is drawn when heater shows 'on', then the blending valve between the HVAC circuit and the engine circuit is sticking open, either completely or jamming open a little.
It would seem in the OPs case that once the system cools down the valve does return to the fully closed condition but seems to remain open for a while after the system has warmed up.
And today while we where sitting in the car, heat set to high and ERDTT set to the cold setting but ICE not running there was a very odd, very loud noise that sounded like a thrown belt on a normal ICE car that came from behind the gauge cluster. I want to guess that it was coolant flowing but I've never heard it before and it was incredibly loud for that. Lasted about 5 seconds. It happened about 20-30 seconds after ICE shut off.
Anybody have any insight to offer? I have absolutely no heat unless the ICE is running. I'm going to try and command the water pump on with my scan tool this coming week if I get time.
Took it to a dealer tonight. Tech didn't know anything about volts but followed the procedures in the tech manual. Thinks it's the heater control module and needs to look at the date on it. They aren't sure if it's covered or not but will call GM for a good faith repair. He stopped because he didn't wanna go to far and get a bill racked up when he wasn't sure what to do and didn't want me to pay for him to learn so I think I owe him a beer.
That's what they suspect in mine. The tech said he needs to see a date on it and if the date falls in a certain timeframe GM says to replace it free of charge and if it's not in those dates to follow the trail in their problem tree.I recently had a tech looking at problems with my heater. He said that he checked with GM about it being covered under the Voltec warranty. Their answer was no, because it is part of the "cooling system," which I guess is specifically excluded. I don't know if that is right or wrong, but that is as far as I was able to get on the issue. They offered to replace my heater control module as an attempt to fix (not guaranteed to fix). That was over $700 more, so I declined it.
However, I think the actual heating element, if it is defective, may be covered.
They told me $800+ for the part alone. Does your A/C run all the time when you try and get heat? Mine does.
Does yours work normally sometimes and not work at all at other times or do you get a little heat all the time? Mine worked intermittently for a while until it failed completely so I was seeing if we had the same symptoms, yours where just behind mine. Thank you for the information either way.
Dealer just called back and said GM will not be offering any assistance and basically too bad, we got the money for the car and that's all we wanted.
I'm 10,000 miles out and 7 months out of B2B but when it was expiring I didn't know it had heater issues and I've been chasing them since it started getting cold.Odd. I have, on 2 previous cars, requested assistance from GM on out of warranty repairs. Both times the dealer told me that the assistance was something that ONLY the customer could request, the dealer COULD NOT do it for me.
On the first request, GM offered to replace my transmission and transfer box in my 2006 Pontiac Montana AWD van at no charge to me. On the second car, a 2011 Malibu, GM split the cost 60/40% with me, I paid 40% for a transmission replacement. Both were just barely out of warranty.
Yea, she told me that since the vehicle is no longer under the bumper to bumper warranty(after 10 minutes of research) that GM is neither obligated or good will to help. She called the dealer that already told me they won't do anything until I pay for the part and asked them to help when they have no reason to do anything as I bought the car from a different dealer.Odd. I have, on 2 previous cars, requested assistance from GM on out of warranty repairs. Both times the dealer told me that the assistance was something that ONLY the customer could request, the dealer COULD NOT do it for me.
On the first request, GM offered to replace my transmission and transfer box in my 2006 Pontiac Montana AWD van at no charge to me. On the second car, a 2011 Malibu, GM split the cost 60/40% with me, I paid 40% for a transmission replacement. Both were just barely out of warranty.
I'm going to be junkyard hunting for the module and I'll install it myself and then find someone to program it if it needs to be VIN matched.
You need the auxiliary coolant pump. It's behind the wheel skirt on the passenger side. Takes about half hour to replace.Wow, yup, I was. Thank you. I'm slightly disappointed that Chevy's labeling system has duplicate numbers used within the same fuse box, as they had the sense to do differently in the other fuse boxes (F1 for fuse 1 and R1 for relay 1, etc.). But I'm most of all disappointed that the service department at Good Chev in Renton, WA who didn't notice this mistake. I had their resident Volt technician looking at the fuse box and he just said that he doesn't think there's normally a fuse/relay there (in relay spot 13), but doesn't know why the owner's manual and service book say that there should be a fuse there. Another dealership in the area didn't catch the mistake either, but I was only talking to a parts guy over the phone, so I'll give them a little more credit.
After getting that sorted out, I checked all the fuses (properly identifying them this time), and none are missing or blown. Drat! I was hoping this fix would be cheap and easy.
I'm having similar symptoms as described above, where I'll turn the temp up hi, but only get warm air (intermittently) if the gas engine is running. The heater icon on the corner of the climate screen will only briefly say "on", before switching back to "off". When testing it parked, the power draw only rises for an extremely brief moment (blink and you'll miss it), then it drops back down to 0.5 kWh.
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